so if i made the "door" panel to cover the electrical panel out of mdf would it benefit from having 2 layers of mdf with green glue inbetween and linacoutic on top? or would a would it just be so leaky acoustically that it wouldn't make a difference?
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isolation and treatment for electrical panel
Looking for some tips on how to build around an elctrical fuse panel my forthcoming HT. It will be in on the left side wall right in the front corner so it butts up agaist the front wall. It goes from the ceiling to about halfway down the wall. Visually it won't be a concern because I'm planning a stage/procenium with some "wings" on the left and right that would obscure it from sight from the seating positions. I'm more worried about the acoustic impacts. The walls are poured concrete. I'm planning on installing rigid foam on the walls, then a metal stud wall and R13 then double 5/8" drywall with green glue, then 1" linacoustic. I'm thinking of making some kind simple door made from MDF with 1" linacoustic on the front of it. I'm worried about sound getting out here though, following the fish tank analogy this would be a fairly large hole. I thought about putting in an exterior grade door but I don't think I have enough room. The front wall will be about 12' wide with a 92" wide screen. That only leaves me with about 2' on the side of the screen. not a lot of room to have a doorway and the left front speaker which would probably be in the way of the door. Also I like the look of the stage but that would be a problem with the door since my floor to celing height without a stage is already only 90". Anyone else have a similar situation they have already dealt with?
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These sorts of panels require two things: Mass and seals. You can accomplish this many ways. Simplest is to screw the hatch cover to the wall framing. You get a good seal, but not convenient in a hurry. Hinges can work, but you need to be much more careful about the seals and the latching mechanism.
You can sandwich plywood, MDF and drywall in variious combinations. If you have leftover damping material, use it. If not, don't go and buy more unless the panel is over 4 square feet.
You can sandwich plywood, MDF and drywall in variious combinations. If you have leftover damping material, use it. If not, don't go and buy more unless the panel is over 4 square feet.
What do you mean by screw the hatch cover to the wall framing? On my new 200 amp box, the cover is separate from the box. Even if you screwed the outer part of the cover into the framing, you still have the inner part of the cover (the part that opens and closes to provide access), which is situated such that it cannot be screwed to the wall framing. Plus, that's likely a violation of code.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/18166438
These sorts of panels require two things: Mass and seals. You can accomplish this many ways. Simplest is to screw the hatch cover to the wall framing.
What do you mean by screw the hatch cover to the wall framing? On my new 200 amp box, the cover is separate from the box. Even if you screwed the outer part of the cover into the framing, you still have the inner part of the cover (the part that opens and closes to provide access), which is situated such that it cannot be screwed to the wall framing. Plus, that's likely a violation of code.
Like I said, you can accomplish a hatch construction via various means. From the simple screwing a hatch to the wall all the way to a hinged system with weatherstrip, hinges and hardware to seal.
If what you're covering protrused out beyond the plane of the drywall, then your hatch will need sides. Like a shallow sandbox. Sandbox has short sides and a large bottom. Same with this type of hatch.
If what you're covering protrused out beyond the plane of the drywall, then your hatch will need sides. Like a shallow sandbox. Sandbox has short sides and a large bottom. Same with this type of hatch.
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