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Discussion Starter #1
I can believe I’m at this point in my HT now building subs. The inspiration for this build if from being at Mike’s aka @eng-399 GTG (my first one) I flew from Toronto to Chicago and that’s what has caused my obsession for bass his 4 21s up front and his 6 15s as nearfield and the naming of my theatre build after Mike.

And then I met Jeremy @hd0823 and Jared @Jk7.2 I was doomed seeing there rooms which are insane (in a good way) for amount of bass and over all sound.

So in 2017 I bought 8 UM18s thinking that was the best way to go for the money, well I didn’t even crack open all the boxes and sold them this year and bought 6 LaVoce SAN214.50 21".

This is why this build is called the Italian Job 6 Italian subs.

All the box designs are from Mike, what an amazing guy, the patience he has had with me, design all my boxes for my UMs and them not even going with them an now the design for 21s which we just finalized a few minutes ago.

Hears the design:

The 4 fronts are stackable 2 on each side of the centre channel, ports will fire out the side instead of the front so it doesn’t affect the screen.

25”w x 23.5”d x 43”h

12.42cf before bracing and driver

tuned to 17hz

Here is what it will look like, it has been revised so those dimensions as not the same.




The rear design

30”w x 16”d x 54”h

12.79cf before bracing and driver

Tuned to 17hz



I will be directing all questions of total output graphs and what ever else to Mike lol. I know what I like but I don’t know how to explain it.

The subs are waiting for me to pick up in Michigan which I will be doing August 10th at the GTG that Jeremy and Jared are having.




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Man, they are going to be able to feel those things all the way down to the stop sign in the last pic!:eek:


Hope your in good with the folks on either side of you.....even with a built room you might levitate their beds.:D




 

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Discussion Starter #8
Man, they are going to be able to feel those things all the way down to the stop sign in the last pic!:eek:


Hope your in good with the folks on either side of you.....even with a built room you might levitate their beds.:D






Well that’s the thing I have told (warned) my neighbours every time they ask me what I am building and I say “a home theatre” they say “that’s cool” and today “what are you building now” I say “6 21” sub boxes for the HT” they said “that’s cool”. Well I am not sure how cool they will think it’s going to be when the hulk is vibrating all their doors or when John Wick is playing and they call the cops because they heard gun fire. As I said I told (warned) them lol.


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Discussion Starter #10
Well after an extremely hot day and a whole bunch of sawdust the subs are all cut, I used 8 4x10 sheets of plywood, not fun to work with but I got them really cheap so you use what you can get. As for scraps there are very little do do using an iPad app called Cut Calculator, couldn’t have done it without it.




I have to work tomorrow so I will start building Sunday.


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This is the winisd rear subs air port velocity,17 high pass in place and an est. of all 6-21'' subs playing with max output.
Ill post the front sub info in the next post along with the cut sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am hoping some could answer this question before I start building the front sub boxes. After doing a dry fit I realized I screwed up one cut which affects 3 other ones which is no big deal I can cut the 12 panels needed to be shortened. With all the parameters that Mike has put into WinISD will it matter if the box is 3/4” shorter, the internal volume will be less by a little bit. These are the things I don’t understand.

Thanks


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I am hoping some could answer this question before I start building the front sub boxes. After doing a dry fit I realized I screwed up one cut which affects 3 other ones which is no big deal I can cut the 12 panels needed to be shortened. With all the parameters that Mike has put into WinISD will it matter if the box is 3/4” shorter, the internal volume will be less by a little bit. These are the things I don’t understand.

Thanks


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Unless it effects the port, the volume that the box is effected will not be an issue. Likely not audible, maybe not even measurable difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here is what I got so far with the build, had to cut it short and go enjoy an early patio bar dinner.

After a long discussion with Mike today we had a few numbers wrong in the cut sheet which has been revised and corrected. I am not doing the traditional glue and clamp, I don’t have time or the money to buy all those clamps so I and pocket hole and glue almost everything.



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Here is what I got so far with the build, had to cut it short and go enjoy an early patio bar dinner.

After a long discussion with Mike today we had a few numbers wrong in the cut sheet which has been revised and corrected. I am not doing the traditional glue and clamp, I don’t have time or the money to buy all those clamps so I and pocket hole and glue almost everything.

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Another fan of pocket holes I see. I love my Kreg jig and have found it is useful for sub cabs among other things.
 

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Did you use the 1” or 1 1/4” screws. I’ll be using my kreg jig for my build shortly but with an actual thickness of 0.688 it falls between the two. Either should work but curious what you used.


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Discussion Starter #20
Did you use the 1” or 1 1/4” screws. I’ll be using my kreg jig for my build shortly but with an actual thickness of 0.688 it falls between the two. Either should work but curious what you used.


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I used the 1 1/4” screws, so that 5/8 material, I think they should work for you just set the jig to 5/8 so the drill bit doesn’t sink to far into the material


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