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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Gang!


Like a new dad, I wanted to announce the arrival of our new Marquee 8500, fresh from Canada. Dr. Curt Palme delivered our new child with a set of new VDC tubes and a flawless case.


I have to admit to a far amount of nostalgia as I cut the umbilical, uh, ummm, disconnected the RGBHV cables from our proud old 1271 and connected them to the new 8500. The 1271 was a wonderful machine.


But frankly I don't know how I've lived without EM focus for this long.


WHAT a DIFFERENCE!


Now, I'd like to espouse the fact that I could do a full 1271 set up in a little less than an hour, including adjusting the Moneyass mod that I installed.


With the Marquee, even though it's intuitive, I still feel like I'm adjusting the thing with a pair of boxing gloves on...


Having said that, I have a few newbie questions.


The first is - DOES ANYONE HAVE AN ALLEN KEY LONG ENOUGH to adjust the figgin knuckle bustin focus nuts?



The other question pertains to the raster. I've got the image at a size that's perfect for my old screen (the new screen will be installed just as soon as I finish the marble floor upstairs. Just a bit of advice - if you want marble in your house, grow wealthy enought to have someone else do it...).


Anyway, even thought the image is the right size, the raster is much larger than the screen. So, when I try to converge, all of the perimeter zones are well off the screen area.


I'm sure I'm just a clown, but I'm having trouble adjusting to this new child.


Also, I've done stig and flare adjustments on my 1271. I understand you can do stig on the marquee electronically, but just for grins, can I also do stig and flare with the pole magnets - al la 1271? Do I need to?


Lastly. how sensitive is the marguee to g2 adjustment? It seems like I really need to push the brightness in order to get any detail in the blacks. I'm wondering if there is a way to calibrate G2 without completely ruining my gray-scale.



Okay, that's it for now.


If I may... I realize that this board is full of helpful individuals who also make a living selling PJ's. My hats are off to all such individuals. But if I may - Curt has really delivered. I felt absolutely comfortable during the entire transaction. He communicated with me often, and the product arrived in a practically bullet proof crate.


When it's time to trade up to a 9 inch, he's earned my business.

'

'
 

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"The first is - DOES ANYONE HAVE AN ALLEN KEY LONG ENOUGH to adjust the figgin knuckle bustin focus nuts?"


Go to a tool supply store (not your average hardware store) and get long T-bar hex-key drivers. They are a godsend. I have a whole pile of them, allen keys are totally worthless in comparison. T-bars are long, and the ends are rounded, so you don't have to be perfectly inline with the nut. If you dont like the round part or wear it down, you can just hacksaw it off and get a fresh part flat again.
 

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Kineto,


My 8500 internal test grid patern is larger than my image and overscans my screen. Once done with internal, I goto source paterns, video essentials, and tweak.


Yes you can do astig magnetic adjustments. You need to neutralize the EM first. Check out Guy Kau's Holy Focus thread if you haven't already.


See E-Tech.com (Tim Martian) for detailed grey scale G2 instructions.
 

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Thanks much..:)


Remind me about the screen size. I'm assuming that you're using a 16:9 and that therefore the top and bottom parameters are off the screen? You might consider shrinking down the raster a touch so you can see the edges of the extreme convergence parameters, then increase the height to get your 16:9 aspect ratio again. Or adjust as-is, and when the cursor is off the screen, look at the appropriate area at the top or bottom of the screen and tune to perfection.


No need to set the astig magnets on the tubes, although you can tweak if you want. The stigmator adjustments in the service menu should be all you need to get to Nirvana.


Check out Tim MArtin's website, www.etechvideo.com for the G2 settings. I did preset them, but depending on the level of your source, you might need to bump them a bit to get that black detail. I set it up with a true 1 V p-p video source, you might only be driving it with 0.7 tyo 0.8 V p-p.


Curt
 

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But wait a minute... There was just the thread stating that for dvd content a 12xx sony is 95% as good as a marquee.


Are you saying you see a significant difference? Tell the truth. :)


Once you get to know the electrohome setup it'll take less time than the sony.


Troy
 

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There is no question about it: get a cheapo ratchet with a set of sockets, you can buy them in all kinds of combinations, often with the in this case needed extension. I for one can never remember what direction I am working in but with a ratchet you do not have to know that due to the nature of the ratchets lock-mechanism. You can also always set the ratchet in an even position, like a quarter to, half-hour etc, so you know where you've begun turning the bolt. With a set like this you have a useful tool for all other bolts in the pj, your bicycle, lawn-mover or whatever. Very useful!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Chris Wiggles - THANK YOU! I'm off to the tool store today.


Curt, you're right - the astig are set very well, :) I'm just a tweaker. The screen is 16x9, so I'll shrink down the image while I'm converging and re-size it after it's complete. I'm also driving the 8500 with an HTPC via a Radeon 7200. It's likely that the output is more like .7 V p-p. After I swithc over to our new HTPC with a Radeon 9600XT, I'll fiddle with the G2.


Avax, also a good idea. I've got Avia and Nokia Test Patterns on my HTPC.


pcCineama - We lived with the 1271 for nearly 2 years, and honestly, it's a great machine. The colors are spectacular- rich and natural if just a bit warm. It was also fairly bright...


Having said that, i always thought it to be a bit soft and while the convergence was decent, even with the mods, I could never get it 100% in the corners.


Now, I only fiddled with the Marquee for about an hour and in that time, not knowing what I was doing, I was able to get the corners really really sharp.


Overall, the Marquee is much sharper, has TONS of punch in the whites without blooming out the blue CRT, and the convergence is ROCK solid about 3 minutes after I turn it on. The Sony required nearly 45 minutes of on time for the convergence to stabilize. It's also a fair bit louder.


We're changing from a 88 inch screen to a 106 inch screen (width on 16X9), and that's one of the reasons we wanted the 8500 - the extra light output.



Now, all that's left is to winch the beast up to the ceiling and put the furniture back where it belongs...


Thanks EVERYONE for your help.


I'll post some screen shots as soon as it's all under control.


AJ
 

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Wait a minute, if you shrink the raster down to converge the screen and then blow it back up after your done, what does that do to your convergence? I always did it the second way, converge the portions that you can actually see on the screen, anything beyond the screen border is not going to affect the projected anyway, right? Can someone in the know explain this phenomenon, which way is the better approach?
 

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Quote:
I set it up with a true 1 V p-p video source, you might only be driving it with 0.7 tyo 0.8 V p-p.


Curt
Quote:
I'm also driving the 8500 with an HTPC via a Radeon 7200. It's likely that the output is more like .7 V p-p.
Congrats on the Marquee, kineto!


I've seen earlier that the Marquees "prefer/love 1v".

Is this talking about the signal voltage?

Is it something I could measure with my cheap multimeter?

Does p-p mean "point to point" (e.g. from my ATI AIW9600 through a 12' RGBHV cable as it's going into the VIM?)

What would/could/should I use to boost it from .7 to 1v? Some Extron box?


Thanks,

Clarence
 

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The lens adjusting tool is a 5/16 inch ball end allen driver, with a 10 inch blade. Bondhus makes them, and probably other companies as well.


I have a PILE of them. They all look like new. If anyone wants one, PM me. $7.50 plus shipping.


CJ
 

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Clarence,


QUOTE]I've seen earlier that the Marquees "prefer/love 1v".[/quote]


p-p means Peak to Peak measured in volts. For instance -.35volts to +.35volts would be .7Volts peak-peak.
 

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Could I measure this by sticking the voltmeter's red thingy on the outer part of a RGB BNC and the black thingy on the inner part of the same BNC?
Clarence,


You need to do this with a o-scope. I do not have a projector and have personally never taken this measurement from a video source. But I would think you could not do this with a volt meter. Someone chime in and correct me if I'm wrong about this.



Kineto,


Congratulations on your new projector. I hope to follow in your footsteps in the near future.
 

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congrats ! keep us posted on your progress with dialing it in there is a little more than passing interest on my part, since i will be upgrading sometime this year with the same machine you purchased from curt, am stepping up from a 1271q also, is the focus that much of an improvement over the 1271q?................
 

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You've got to use a scope to measure the RGB voltage. The reason is that during vertical and horizontal retrace periods, the RGB signals go to black. Voltmeters only measure DC voltage so you need a scope to see what's happening during the actual image time.


While you've got the scope out, you can calibrate your source. If it's an HTPC, you can adjust your player's brightness down to where image black just hits the same level as the retrace black level. Then you adjust contrast up to just before the white image clips (crushes). You need to display a ramp or stair-step to do this. Now that your source is calibrated you can leave it alone and do the rest on your PJ.


Cary
 

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Hey congrats kineto_hound.


I myself just traded in my 1271 for a MARQUEE 8000 and I haven't even been able to play with it yet. Had it a week and today I started my set up. I do agree there is quite a notable difference with image from my 1271. I hope your having as much fun as me with your new 3 eyed child.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
penticton102,


Yeah, the focus on the Marquee is dramatically sharper than the Sony. For the first time while watching DVDs. I can see film grain in slightly underexposed scenes.


Right now, I've got the HTPC running at 1440x720 at 60 Hz and I have to say that I can still see ringing and stair stepping in small details. I'll likely turn the rez up to 768 or 800 and see what that brings me.


I've been messing around with the convergence settings since I first posted. Now, I have not yet configured the remote for wireless, so I'm dialing in the convergence about 8 feet from the screen.


Still, this thing is so 3 Dimensional! YOu can really appreciate a short depth of field in some of my favorite long lens shots.


Right now, my screen is the limiting factor. The new one is just sitting on the floor beggin to be mounted. But I'm going to wait until I have the PJ flipped and on the ceiling.


Let me just say, this PJ is so good that we're going to re-do our HT to match the performance of our image.


AJ
 

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Does any one know the sweet spot for a Marque 8000 at 60 KHz and at 75 Khz? I have a Deuce Smart scaler that has 6 diferent outputs and they all seem to have to be saved in the recall memories, waht a pain.
 
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