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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(You can scroll down to *** to skip the intro blather.)


Over the years I've owned and enjoyed audio equipment that ranges from an early '80s 2-ch 100W Yamaha A-960 integrated amp + Kef 101s + low-end Micro Seiki DD-20 turntable with an Audio Technica MC cartridge, to a 75W Denon 1601 + Boston CR7 fronts + Boston micro80c center + $100 Costco 12" KLH sub. Nothing spectacular, but it fulfilled my needs at the time (the poor sub notwithstanding).


Today I'm looking for a budget system. I really wanted the Energy Take Classic 5.1 rig to be the ticket but, unfortunately, it's not working for me. DVDs and Blu-ray sound really great, but with some audio CDs I find myself hunting a sound I'm pretty sure I'll never find. There's a lot to like about them, but the sound is just too biased toward the high end for my ear. It's the nature of the satellite beast. No big whup. I'm returning them with no regrets for trying them.


I know I'm asking a lot for low-end speakers, but what the heck. I can always lower my expectations later. In the interim I think I'm going to give the very popular Jamo S606 5.0 deal a shot. I'm hoping for a warmer, fuller sound overall. Simple as that. I can use the KLH sub until I can free up some cash for something better.


Right now I've got a Denon 1611 + LG 670 BD player + 42" Plasma. My listening area is roughly 14' w x 20' d x 8' h room with a concrete floor and masonry walls.


So...



***

Questions:


1. As far as I can remember, I've never owned anything but 8 ohm speakers. Is the 1611 sufficient to drive these 6 ohm Jamos to moderate+ levels, and is there anything special I need to take into consideration when I'm running them? Will they cause my receiver to run hot, for instance. Things like that.


2. Any recommendations regarding crossover settings that might differ from what Audyssey determines?


3. How about the outrigger feet on concrete: essential, a good idea, a bad idea, doesn't matter, etc.? How do they affect the sound of the sound? They do look kinda cool...


4. Anything else I need to know?



Good forum here. A lot to absorb. Thanks.
 

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the 1611 will work fine with the Jamo's. The impedance rating is an average over the useful frequency range and they will work fine.


Start out at 60Hz or 80Hz for the towers and maybe 100Hz for the bookshelf units


get some plain'ol 14 gauge stranded copper wire for wiring the speakers, nothing fancy - lamp cord or speaker wire (same thing just clear insulation), or the wiring I like to use http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=100-734 - or the same type wire from Monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
 

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1. I own the Denon 591 which is the 5.1 version of the 1611. So same power. I have used my Jamo E680/E660 tower speakers with them which are also 6 ohm speakers. Not a problem at all and you're receiver will not get hot unless you run it at high volumes all day long.


2. Let Audyssey do its thing and if it sets the crossover at 40 or 60hz bump them up to 80hz. That way your subwoofer will get the bulk of the low frequencies to handle and take a load off your receiver. Also change the speaker setting from LARGE to SMALL if Audyssey happens to set the mains to LARGE.


3. Don't know that answer, you have concrete floors? No rugs or carpet? You'll probably have a lot of reflections in the room.


4. Enjoy your speakers!
 

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The only thing I'll offer different from AfroGT is in regards to the crossovers...


I'd set the speakers at the next higher hz range than the speakers can produce...ie, if a speaker says 57hz, set the crossover at 60hz...and so on.


But, my way...or AfroGT's way are both "a" correct answer. Your "correct answer" may differ from both of ours...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the feedback, guys.


I got 16 gauge wire from Monoprice because I wasn't sure if 14 ga. would fit the mini binding posts on the Take Classics. Will that be sufficient? I don't have any long runs.


And yep, I've got reflections. I didn't even mention the large window at the back of the room that looks out to the backyard. Concrete floors were the standard in Arizona when this house was built in the mid-'50s. I think that was part of the problem with the TCs. They weren't a very good fit for the room acoustics. Eventually we'll have wood flooring laid down. Kinda waiting to see if our elected reps tank the economy completely or what.


The Jamos are shipping from Vanns today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by schan1269 /forum/post/20766760


But, my way...or AfroGT's way are both "a" correct answer. Your "correct answer" may differ from both of ours...

Understood. I'm looking for informed opinions, which are subjective by nature. I appreciate that you all take the time to respond.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the reminder m_vanmeter.


I've seen that chart before but had forgotten that the recommended length would vary with load. I was still thinking 48 ft (8 ohm). I'm going to reconfigure the layout in my room and I don't expect I'll exceed 36' for the surrounds. If I get close I can always pick up some 14 ga. just for those two.


Also, does anyone have experience with the relative placement of the fronts? It dawned on me last night that the bass drivers can be placed either facing in, or facing out. I suppose it depends quite a bit on the room acoustics, placement of the sub, where the furniture is located, etc.


The way the room is laid out now, if I place them drivers-out, the right side will play directly into the front of a sofa. If I play them drivers-in, both will play into the low, wide, three-tiered glass stand my components and TV sit on. Which is what got me thinking about changing the layout of the room. If I reconfigure everything 90° there'll be more room for everything.
 
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