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These were initially supposed to release in January. So clearly there is some issue, whether it's supply chain or design change issues is impossible to know. But clearly there's more to it than an unanticipated demand issues. I just hope they have it all figured out at this point :).
Did you ever find out what the issue was? Even with already owning M2s, hopefully you're at least a little excited to be getting these soon :)
 

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I dont think JBL has released anechoic measurements for these yet. That should tell is where the deficits are.
I saw a chart posted and discussed in one of the YouTube videos. It was either the Jbl pro videos about how they are designed and measured, or the home theater geeks episode with the two senior designers.

Charts looked awesome.

But they spent a decent amount of time explaining how the charts are not as useful as their listening window data - which also considers the refelctions and off axis performance and the total sound power. That chart btw looked pretty awesome too.

It's sucks that JbL pro is one of the only speaker companies that can do and provide this data. The fact no one else can kind of make comparing to other speakers harder.
 

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quote The more accurate, the more chameleon like a speaker becomes, and you end up judging the unique recording attributes more than the speaker. The less accurate a speaker and you hear more of the the unique speaker attributes, not the unique recording attributes.
end quote

So true. I am using the lower end LSR4326p speakers as my desktop system and you hear into the mix. They do get out of the way and when something is recorded very well I naturally sit up and pay attention. Unfortunately, many recordings are not done well or are compressed in some way such as to limit dynamics. I can't imaging how the M2's or the newer JBL monitors might sound. I would imagine they also reveal everything about the source, both good and maybe not so good.
 
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Active has advantages over passive without a doubt. The advantages are less distortion, decreased attack time, custom crossover integration by using DSP instead of passive components, better speaker protection from being overdriven. The disadvantage is cost in both design and set up. Active requires getting a signal and power to each speaker or multiple speaker wires if the amps are outside the speaker, passive only requires a speaker wire. With that being said it still comes down to design. There are some excellent passive speakers and mediocre active speakers and vice versa. However, if there is the same speaker in active and passive versions I will take the active speaker. But, things are rarely that simple.
The active design is also more friendly to correction of room related issues without advanced or extra equipment.
 

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You don't need a special external unit to make room based changes- all the DSP functionality is right in the amp already. Many AVR don't have that functionality, or people buy external units to gain the kind of control that exists in an active amp set up. I guess it depends on the amps, but somthing like the M2 the amp functionaltiy is all you need to make room based corrections.
 

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I though I saw a post of their max SPL but cant seem to find it now. DO we think the 708 would be loud enough to put behind a screen as your main LRC?

I was looking at the JBL cinema stuff and love the 305's I have. If I could get my HT speakers to play as loud as I needed and sound like my 305 I would be pleased at punch. Also the 708 looks to be front ported, Hello baffle wall!
 

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I though I saw a post of their max SPL but cant seem to find it now. DO we think the 708 would be loud enough to put behind a screen as your main LRC?

I was looking at the JBL cinema stuff and love the 305's I have. If I could get my HT speakers to play as loud as I needed and sound like my 305 I would be pleased at punch. Also the 708 looks to be front ported, Hello baffle wall!
708 is plenty loud for a 12 foot distance.

Distance is the determining factor as each doubling of distance is a drop by about -6db. I think many are rated at 1 meter/1watt for sensitivity.

So if you know every time you double wattage you gain about 3db - you can back into how many watts it will take to reach the volume level you want.

Commercial theaters are calibrated at 85db C weighted and often called on to do 100db+ peaks. Having 20db of headroom seems like something you want.

Frequency Response -1.5 dB @ 45Hz – 23kHz
Max SPL (80 Hz - 20 kHz) >108 dB SPL / 1m
Maximum Peak SPL (80 Hz - 20 kHz) >114 dB SPL / 1m

Specs look pretty good. ^

If it does 114db peak at 1m, then it does 111db at 2m, and 108db at 3m.

3.65m is 12 feet. So 85db constant with about 105db peaks seems to be reasonable with these at a 12ft distance.

I think you'd be surprised at how loud this actually is. Set your system C weighted at 85db constant with some pink noise (subs off !). Check it out. (Turn subs back on).
 

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708 is plenty loud for a 12 foot distance.

Distance is the determining factor as each doubling of distance is a drop by about -6db. I think many are rated at 1 meter/1watt for sensitivity.

So if you know every time you double wattage you gain about 3db - you can back into how many watts it will take to reach the volume level you want.

Commercial theaters are calibrated at 85db C weighted and often called on to do 100db+ peaks. Having 20db of headroom seems like something you want.

Frequency Response -1.5 dB @ 45Hz – 23kHz
Max SPL (80 Hz - 20 kHz) >108 dB SPL / 1m
Maximum Peak SPL (80 Hz - 20 kHz) >114 dB SPL / 1m

Specs look pretty good. ^

If it does 114db peak at 1m, then it does 111db at 2m, and 108db at 3m.

3.65m is 12 feet. So 85db constant with about 105db peaks seems to be reasonable with these at a 12ft distance.

I think you'd be surprised at how loud this actually is. Set your system C weighted at 85db constant with some pink noise (subs off !). Check it out. (Turn subs back on).
Any idea what kind of power will be required to safely achieve these levels? I haven't seen sensitivity specs posted anywhere.
 

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Any idea what kind of power will be required to safely achieve these levels? I haven't seen sensitivity specs posted anywhere.
lol I started that direction in the post then realized the sensitivity was not posted so I back tracked because they actually listed the 1m output.

I have no clue the sensitivity. If it was 90db- then 93 would need 2 watts, 4 watts bring 96db etc...

Without knowing where to start it's not really possible to figure it out. My guess is it's a normal amount of power. It's JBL.
 

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708 is plenty loud for a 12 foot distance.

Distance is the determining factor as each doubling of distance is a drop by about -6db. I think many are rated at 1 meter/1watt for sensitivity.

So if you know every time you double wattage you gain about 3db - you can back into how many watts it will take to reach the volume level you want.

Commercial theaters are calibrated at 85db C weighted and often called on to do 100db+ peaks. Having 20db of headroom seems like something you want.

Frequency Response -1.5 dB @ 45Hz – 23kHz
Max SPL (80 Hz - 20 kHz) >108 dB SPL / 1m
Maximum Peak SPL (80 Hz - 20 kHz) >114 dB SPL / 1m

Specs look pretty good. ^



If it does 114db peak at 1m, then it does 111db at 2m, and 108db at 3m.

3.65m is 12 feet. So 85db constant with about 105db peaks seems to be reasonable with these at a 12ft distance.

I think you'd be surprised at how loud this actually is. Set your system C weighted at 85db constant with some pink noise (subs off !). Check it out. (Turn subs back on).
It drops 6 dB at 2m, not 3 dB, you should get 108 dB peak at 2m. 1 to 2m is doubling of distance, you said it yourself above.
 

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It drops 6 dB at 2m, not 3 dB, you should get 108 dB peak at 2m. 1 to 2m is doubling of distance, you said it yourself above.
Yeah good catch- I switch back from wattage doubling (3db) to distance doubling (-6db) when I realized the sensitivity rating was not posted. math isn't my friend I guess..
 

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Yeah good catch- I switch back from wattage doubling (3db) to distance doubling (-6db) when I realized the sensitivity rating was not posted. math isn't my friend I guess..

No, you are fine, every makes mistakes and slips up, I do it all the time. :)


I would try the 308, 708(I do love JBL) if it could play loud enough but I have my doubts sitting from 14 feet away. The cinema speakers won' fit in my baffle wall either. I have given up on my DIY skills and let JBL do the crosses for me.
 

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No, you are fine, every makes mistakes and slips up, I do it all the time. :)


I would try the 308, 708(I do love JBL) if it could play loud enough but I have my doubts sitting from 14 feet away. The cinema speakers won' fit in my baffle wall either. I have given up on my DIY skills and let JBL do the crosses for me.
You should be looking at a proper screen array. They are also well engineered:

 
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