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Amazon has a bunch of power strips with 12 V trigger inputs. They range in price from maybe $50 to $200 after a quick search. There are also DIY schemes much cheaper.

Here is a Panamax one -- don't know anything about it other than it has a trigger input: https://smile.amazon.com/Panamax-M8-AV-PRO-Theater-Power-Management/dp/B00M0FG00W/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=power+strip+with+12V+trigger&qid=1593645969&sr=8-13
I don't know how you found that. I've been searching for days and couldn't find one. Any $50 examples you stumbled upon? It's just to power on some duct fans to circulate the equipment room air when the processor powers on.
 

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I never have. I don't think you'll need the power everyone pretends you'll need with these. I've had them and sub amps on the same 20 AMP breaker. The sub amps would trip it but never the M2's. Once I took the sub amps off that breaker, never trips and they get way louder than I can handle for long.
I discovered the amplifier sleep mode and how it works. Makes a 12 volt trigger unnecessary!
 

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No, that would be perfect for what I need (2 duct fans). How would I wire that to trip from 12 volt triggers?
The green "Phoenix" connector accepts the trigger voltage. I use one of these. It's nicely built. :)
 

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The green "Phoenix" connector accepts the trigger voltage. I use one of these. It's nicely built. :)
Did it come with the "Phoenix" connector so all you had to do is take a TS (tip sleeve) mono 3.5 miniplug wire, cut off one end and strip/connect the shield and the center core with a mini screwdriver? Or did you have to buy one?

Not sure of the size or exact configuration but here's an example. https://www.parts-express.com/phoenix-type-connector-2-pole-5mm-pitch-4-pack--091-370
 

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Did it come with the "Phoenix" connector so all you had to do is take a TS (tip sleeve) mono 3.5 miniplug wire, cut off one end and connect the shield and the center core with a mini screwdriver?
That's exactly what I did. The unit includes the plug shell. :)
 
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Would you mind sharing the "sleep mode", thanks :)
Some people suggest a "night cap" but I just count sheep.:D

HAPPY JULY the 4th PEEPS!
 

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Would you mind sharing the "sleep mode", thanks :)
Sure. sorry for the delayed response, have been very busy in the new theater and for the fourth.

In audio architect, activate "amplifier sleep mode enable" and set the auto standby to your desired amount of time you want the amp to shut down and desired input level required to wake it back up. The Harman tech I spoke with on the phone said this would be the proper way to do it, rather than having an external power switch turning power on and off to the amplifier. The display stays off unless you touch something on the front panel of the amp, and the amplifier shuts down when it hasn't received a signal after the amount of time you enter into the auto standby.
 

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Sure. sorry for the delayed response, have been very busy in the new theater and for the fourth.

In audio architect, activate "amplifier sleep mode enable" and set the auto standby to your desired amount of time you want the amp to shut down and desired input level required to wake it back up. The Harman tech I spoke with on the phone said this would be the proper way to do it, rather than having an external power switch turning power on and off to the amplifier. The display stays off unless you touch something on the front panel of the amp, and the amplifier shuts down when it hasn't received a signal after the amount of time you enter into the auto standby.
Thanks Mario. I tried to set that up but every time I enable sleep mode I go back in and it's disabled again. It won't stick.
 

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Sure. sorry for the delayed response, have been very busy in the new theater and for the fourth.

In audio architect, activate "amplifier sleep mode enable" and set the auto standby to your desired amount of time you want the amp to shut down and desired input level required to wake it back up. The Harman tech I spoke with on the phone said this would be the proper way to do it, rather than having an external power switch turning power on and off to the amplifier. The display stays off unless you touch something on the front panel of the amp, and the amplifier shuts down when it hasn't received a signal after the amount of time you enter into the auto standby.
Thanks Mario. I tried to set that up but every time I enable sleep mode I go back in and it's disabled again. It won't stick.
No problem. It does the same with me, but I noticed it still works. I also noticed if you hit it twice, it’s turns on “amplifier output enable.” Not sure or the relation, probably some kind of software quirk, but it did work. I updated to the latest firmware also, maybe that makes a difference.

And I finally ordered that 3rd M2, on an unrelated note 😁
 

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No problem. It does the same with me, but I noticed it still works. I also noticed if you hit it twice, it’s turns on “amplifier output enable.” Not sure or the relation, probably some kind of software quirk, but it did work. I updated to the latest firmware also, maybe that makes a difference.

And I finally ordered that 3rd M2, on an unrelated note 😁
Yeah, just tested and it is working for me as well. Likely a software bug. I've been using a trigger relay since I bought them, but maybe I'll disconnect it. The flip side of that is the relay provides some lightning/surge/brown-out protection when off, so never a straight forward decision :).

Congrats on the center channel! Can't remember, are you phantom or using a 7 series currently?
 

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No problem. It does the same with me, but I noticed it still works. I also noticed if you hit it twice, it’️s turns on “amplifier output enable.â€Â Not sure or the relation, probably some kind of software quirk, but it did work. I updated to the latest firmware also, maybe that makes a difference.

And I finally ordered that 3rd M2, on an unrelated note 😁
Yeah, just tested and it is working for me as well. Likely a software bug. I've been using a trigger relay since I bought them, but maybe I'll disconnect it. The flip side of that is the relay provides some lightning/surge/brown-out protection when off, so never a straight forward decision /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif.

Congrats on the center channel! Can't remember, are you phantom or using a 7 series currently?
Yeah there’s an up and down to both. I don’t have the relay switch so I’ll use this. If bad whether is coming, I’ll unplug everything.

I was using a phantom center. I almost bought a 708 for a center but ended up sticking with the phantom.
 

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Since i have my 708 moved down under my tv (previously above) with the woofers close to the same height as the M2's and Dirac enabled, that the panning is way better and seamless between the front three. TV is up high now though.

Still, some day I'll get a center M2 and an acoustic transparent screen.
 

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I’m considering the M2 LCR setup for my HT and 2 channel system. I’ve been evaluating where to combine the two paths (HT and stereo) in an M2 based system. In a passive crossover system that would be at the preamp with an HT bypass, but with the crossover in the crown amps, there is little scope or gain for bringing in better amps and dacs for the stereo path. The common denominator would seem to be the ADC and DAC conversion and the amplification in the crown amps, at which point, is there an advantage to putting high end dacs upstream in the signal path. I’d love to know some ways people have addressed this. Thanks.
 

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I’m considering the M2 LCR setup for my HT and 2 channel system. I’ve been evaluating where to combine the two paths (HT and stereo) in an M2 based system. In a passive crossover system that would be at the preamp with an HT bypass, but with the crossover in the crown amps, there is little scope or gain for bringing in better amps and dacs for the stereo path. The common denominator would seem to be the ADC and DAC conversion and the amplification in the crown amps, at which point, is there an advantage to putting high end dacs upstream in the signal path. I’d love to know some ways people have addressed this. Thanks.
"HT Bypass" is a marketing ploy created by a segment of the audio industry to make people buy more gear unnecessarily to increase dealer profits. All prepros and AVRs that are capable of supporting a multi-channel home theater system will also have a perfectly adequate stereo (2ch.) mode one can turn on at the flick of a switch and then only the front L and R speakers become active to reproduce the signal. The notion the people who make these electronics are incapable of designing a competent 2ch mode (hence we should instead consider buying a secondary preamp just for this mode) is completely ridiculous. This, however, is in a nutshell exactly the rationalization the HT Bypass marketers would have us believe in order to sell consumers a secondary, redundant preamp.

I've made a block diagram so people who are new to this fad can more easily see what's going on. Essentially HT Bypass is actually "Bi-preamping". You are urged to buy a secondary (completely redundant) preamp for just the stereo sources because supposedly the stereo circuit in the existing prepro/AVR is allegedly "bad quality". Baloney.



Once you see the complete layout as I show in my diagram above you come to realize "HT Bypass" is really nothing more than an A/B switch built into the new (unneeded/redundant) preamp purchased for just the stereo sources. Anyone could design a functionally equivalent setup with any secondary, redundant preamp for just stereo sources by using an outboard A/B switch just as easily (were they so inclined) which is why I placed it in a dashed box in the lower right corner of the "HT Bypass preamp" in my diagram.

Note: There are slight variations to bi-preamping, aka HT Bypass, such as building the power amps for the L and R into the secondary preamp itself. Such a design is typically called an "HT Bypass integrated amp".
 

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Just a heads up, if anyone was considering ordering an M2 right now, I'd hold off. I ordered mine June 29th and it still hasn't shipping. They told me it was delayed until the 24th and was supposed to ship the 24th. Now they're saying August 7th (yeah, okay...). Basically there's no telling when you'll actually get the speaker you paid for. IMO they shouldn't take money for a product they're unsure when they'll be able to deliver. Could be a very long time. Normally I wouldn't post something like this, but this happened to me last time when I ordered my pair of M2's also for a different reason. They took my money, then they had a problem with the supplier for the waveguides. Ordered my M2s in February and didn't get them until June. If something is going on, I get it, stuff happens (although I've been particularly unlucky with bad timing with ordering these speakers), but we should be kept in the loop at least, and maybe don't take the money for a product you have no idea when you'll be able to deliver.
 
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