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I've found an HDMI voltage inserter is necessary to drive the RuiPro between my Arcam and projector. I doubt the HDMI board is any different between the models, and with the voltage inserter I no longer have any drops. For ~ $15-20 it is a cheap thing to try. In my case I knew the cable and projector were fine, as moving the cable to my Lumagen Radiance Pro never suffered drops/flashes.
That is indeed quite cheap.

In Spain what I found is this, let me know of it is more or less the same one and if I have to connect close to the projector ot processor.


TIA
 

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What is your version of firmware?

I have not had these types of issues with HDMI. I'm using a 75ft fiber cable to my projector and have two 4k sources feeding into the processor. I'm using this cable between the JBL and the projector: Monoprice SlimRun AV HDR High Speed Cable for HDMI-Enabled Devices - [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, Fiber Optic, ARC, AOC, YCbCr 4:4:4, 75ft, Black - Monoprice.com

You mentioned a fiber cable was working for a little while then stopped. I'm curious as to which cable you are using. Fiber cables are also directional, meaning you need to have the correct end plugged into the processor. I'm not sure if it will work at all if it's backward.

As far as the time involved in switching sources, it's not particularly fast but I can switch in about 5-7 seconds or so between HDMI sources. My thought was most of that time is spent negotiating the resolution. I don't see the 30 second times you indicated.

In regard to the OSD, I don't believe it is suitable for configuring the device. Using the front panel can be done if you are patient but using the web browser is the most efficient method. For me, the OSD is handy for seeing the volume and seeing which sound and filter modes are applied. You said that you sometimes see the volume, so I'm wondering if your OSD issues are related to the HDMI problems. What type of problems are you having with the web browser? As Jason90 suggested, maybe your computer and JBL are on different subnets. More details would be helpful to be able to give assistance.
HDMI. I have several brands and the model you mention I bought it while living the States but 50 feet and it was by far the one that gave the most headaches.
Web browser. Mb is my lack of knowledge...I know how to find the subnet mask in windows but not idea in my JBL
Thanks
 

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I thought there would be because I was told there was supposedly a 10DB limit, but it did it fine.
Mystic says it is 6dB but I have no idea. Happy to see it works for you. I have a huge dip in the 50's so I might try that out just for the fun of it before doing anything more drastic.
 

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Is there a way to delete Dirac filter without complete factory reset? Is there any evidence that deleting and reloading a fresh new filter is better than overwriting over a current one?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I have overwritten filters probably a solid 50 times already. The only issue I would run into is when the JBL would hang at the “saving” status. In v1.4, this might happen 1 in 10 times (in version 1.36, it might happen 1 in five times). When this would happen, I would power off my amp and then power off the JBL. After restart, I would resave the filter to ensure that it was saved properly, and I didn’t have any problems from then. I don’t even know if the saving hangs occur anymore with the newest firmware. I can definitely tell that the entire process is snappier now than it was in version 1.36 (and it might be even faster now than 1.4 when it comes to saving filters). With that said, save and re-save with reckless abandon—not a big deal.
 

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I have overwritten filters probably a solid 50 times already. The only issue I would run into is when the JBL would hang at the “saving” status. In v1.4, this might happen 1 in 10 times (in version 1.36, it might happen 1 in five times). When this would happen, I would power off my amp and then power off the JBL. After restart, I would resave the filter to ensure that it was saved properly, and I didn’t have any problems from then. I don’t even know if the saving hangs occur anymore with the newest firmware. I can definitely tell that the entire process is snappier now than it was in version 1.36 (and it might be even faster now than 1.4 when it comes to saving filters). With that said, save and re-save with reckless abandon—not a big deal.
On the Audiocontrol, I am always unable to get the unit to "save" on top of an existing filter. I always have to factory reset to clear the slots to get it to work. When I factory reset, I also have to log into the web interface to reset the timezone/country and device name, it seems this information isn't preserved in the backups.

Looking forward to getting what I suppose will be 1.43 on the audiocontrol, hoping it will maybe help with the occasional directv audio dropout. I never had the sub 13/14 dropout issue with audio sources > 48khz and 1.41 cleared up the DLBC issues (except for one crash in multiple days of usage).
 

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On the Audiocontrol, I am always unable to get the unit to "save" on top of an existing filter. I always have to factory reset to clear the slots to get it to work. When I factory reset, I also have to log into the web interface to reset the timezone/country and device name, it seems this information isn't preserved in the backups.

Looking forward to getting what I suppose will be 1.43 on the audiocontrol, hoping it will maybe help with the occasional directv audio dropout. I never had the sub 13/14 dropout issue with audio sources > 48khz and 1.41 cleared up the DLBC issues (except for one crash in multiple days of usage).
That is awful and would majorly suck when trying to fne-tune target curves when it comes to saving. Yeah, that doesn't sound right and I'm really hoping you don't have to continue with that method when the new firmware is released; otherwise, I might give a call to tech support, because how else is there a way to actually experiment with Dirac? That's perhaps its most robust features!
 

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On the Audiocontrol, I am always unable to get the unit to "save" on top of an existing filter. I always have to factory reset to clear the slots to get it to work. When I factory reset, I also have to log into the web interface to reset the timezone/country and device name, it seems this information isn't preserved in the backups.

Looking forward to getting what I suppose will be 1.43 on the audiocontrol, hoping it will maybe help with the occasional directv audio dropout. I never had the sub 13/14 dropout issue with audio sources > 48khz and 1.41 cleared up the DLBC issues (except for one crash in multiple days of usage).
I have the X7 and I am able to write over a existing filter. I did have some trouble with it early on but I just did one today. After the filter is saved and I have exited Dirac I do power off my unit and turn it back on.
 

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I have the X7 and I am able to write over a existing filter. I did have some trouble with it early on but I just did one today. After the filter is saved and I have exited Dirac I do power off my unit and turn it back on.
For me, the save hangs. I only tried it three times, with a power cycle each time when it fails, however, before concluding it just didn’t work, It never stops displaying that It’s saving, I wonder if it has something to do with the config, I have a 7.2.4 setup with subs in 13,14. I also have all 3 slots occupied when I try to do this.

Otherwise, it seems odd why some people have zero trouble and others can’t ever get it to work.
 

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Auro upmixing seems to be broken in 1.42 with center channel going heaven knows where, even though Auro was fine 3-4 firmwares ago. A beginners' programming class is actually doing this firmware, right? And still not a word from JBL Synthesis which, to me, is the most shameful aspect of this debacle.
 

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Auro upmixing seems to be broken in 1.42 with center channel going heaven knows where, even though Auro was fine 3-4 firmwares ago. A beginners' programming class is actually doing this firmware, right? And still not a word from JBL Synthesis which, to me, is the most shameful aspect of this debacle.
Our pain is for the good of the students, Bob. The students And their growth. We must keep that in mind.
 
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I did not quite get that. To access the web interface I use the ip address that the JBL menu hasand input it in my PC. It does not connect. I do not know if I supposed to do somethi
Yeah, i got that, but still, if your browser doesn't connect to it, there has to be something wrong and that might as well be the network configuration.
 

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That is indeed quite cheap.

In Spain what I found is this, let me know of it is more or less the same one and if I have to connect close to the projector ot processor.


TIA
This is the one I bought, and inserted at the processor end: RUIPRO 5V USB power insertor with standard Female HDMI to Male HDMI port: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

On the JVC 4k thread, others have had success with the Cables2Go versions.
 

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Auro upmixing seems to be broken in 1.42 with center channel going heaven knows where, even though Auro was fine 3-4 firmwares ago. A beginners' programming class is actually doing this firmware, right? And still not a word from JBL Synthesis which, to me, is the most shameful aspect of this debacle.
I think it was broken with 1.36. That is when i noticed it.
 

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Got a response back from Harman. Apparently their standard issue is from IT Crowd.

"Have you tried reinstalling the FW and resetting?"
 

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Got a response back from Harman. Apparently their standard issue is from IT Crowd.

"Have you tried reinstalling the FW and resetting?"
Back when these processors first came out that was the response I got, even after sending screen shots and videos of me reinstalling the FW and confirming I had the latest version. They still asked if I had updated to the latest. That's when I returned the SDP-55. But after continued issues and no end in sight with the Emotiva RMC-1, I have a SDP-55 back in my stack. Lucky for me, FW 1.42 seems to be VERY solid for 98% of my uses.
 

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I updated my FW to 1.42 last week along with settings reset.. A friend stopped by to demo my projector and audio was all over the place. The bass was overwhelming out of control. I tried to decrease the level of subs but it didn't make any difference. Even the scenes where there were just plain dialogues, there was bass coming out of all subs. It was an embarrassing sh*tshow tbh. Later while trying to diagnose the issue, I discovered the bug. The moment I changed the bass slider in settings to -1 the subs would turn off in those scenes but if the bass slider was at 0 DB, the subs were on all the time. I reloaded the Dirac filters from my most recent measurement and that didn't help either.

I did a complete reset of all settings and it seems to have fixed the issue for now. I am wondering whether I should retry by loading filters I did with Dirac 3.05 or start afresh redo the measurements and create new filters.
 

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I updated my FW to 1.42 last week along with settings reset.. A friend stopped by to demo my projector and audio was all over the place. The bass was overwhelming out of control. I tried to decrease the level of subs but it didn't make any difference. Even the scenes where there were just plain dialogues, there was bass coming out of all subs. It was an embarrassing sh*tshow tbh. Later while trying to diagnose the issue, I discovered the bug. The moment I changed the bass slider in settings to -1 the subs would turn off in those scenes but if the bass slider was at 0 DB, the subs were on all the time. I reloaded the Dirac filters from my most recent measurement and that didn't help either.

I did a complete reset of all settings and it seems to have fixed the issue for now. I am wondering whether I should retry by loading filters I did with Dirac 3.05 or start afresh redo the measurements and create new filters.
From Harman: It sounds like they didn’t perform a factory reset after updating the FW. This has been reported from multiple users who later did a factory reset and it fixed the subwoofer issue. I ran into this issue with a dealer in Seattle in particular, and performing the factory reset fixed the problem. I’m reviewing the FW update instructions to include another manual reset after the update process and auto reset.
 

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From Harman: It sounds like they didn’t perform a factory reset after updating the FW. This has been reported from multiple users who later did a factory reset and it fixed the subwoofer issue. I ran into this issue with a dealer in Seattle in particular, and performing the factory reset fixed the problem. I’m reviewing the FW update instructions to include another manual reset after the update process and auto reset.
I followed the instructions in the pdf that came with the firmware and did do the factory reset but its quite possible that it may have not have been 100% successful which was probably fixed by the repeat manual reset.
 
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