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I remember all that! I actually almost bought an RX-8 once, too, but well after all those issues had been settled. Still glad I didn't do it even though you're right, they were very fun to drive. When I see one on the road now I think, "wow, they're either really committed to that car or really stupid." Not sure if Mazda should be admired or chastised for sticking with the rotary for so long...
I don't want to derail much longer, but I think there certainly is a committed rotary base. However, I know I started asking the "regular Joe owner" at stop lights how many miles and whenever the answer was above 70k I'd ask "first engine or second" -- nearly all laughed and many (too many) said "second".

For a while, though, Mazda was helping replace engines, even slightly outside warranty, if they had provable compression issues. I begged the dealer to have mine replaced in this way as the car consistently failed or was very difficult to restart after it warmed up. It left me stranded many nights requiring tow or waiting a long time for the engine to cool and then using a PITA de-flood procedure to get it to restart, which didn't always work...requiring tow, lol. I towed that car a lot. Alas, the inept dealer kept saying, "it's just your starter, it needs to spin faster" and I said, "no, do a compression test, I read all over that hot-restart problems are a symptom of low compression".

Finally, the dealer performed a compression test -- seemingly incorrectly, though, as the numbers made zero sense to me. So, I scanned and posted the results they gave me on an RX-8 specific forum (like I did it, not like a dealer did) in the tech garage section and everyone said something like, "who ran that test?" or "these numbers are meaningless, did you use the wrong procedure?" or "these numbers don't even make sense, you're an idiot." Of course, the dealer called the compression "test" adequate, and wouldn't budge; my problem, in their opinion, "was the starter".

Livid, and telling them "this is just a band-aid and I'm not happy", I let them install a new starter. Unsurprisingly to me, the new starter did not help for long. About a month later the engine wouldn't start again at all and this time the dealer said, "yeah, you have no compression in the rear chamber". WELL NO S__T! By that time, I had been fighting for months that it was low compression and not the starter. But, now I was told "the replacement program has ended" and "you have to pay for the new engine yourself". Well, that or buy a new car with a non-running pile of crap for a trade.

Like a total fool, but hoping I could just keep my (finally) fully paid off car going for another few years, I replaced the engine, and clutch, and few other things. The dealer even messed up my outboard amp in the process. Better, they tried to tell me it "wasn't working when you brought it in, we didn't touch anything that would impact your amp". This, of course, was false. I knew they had to mess with the wiring harnesses under the dash for one of the fixes they made and the harness for the amp was under there. I finally made them rip it apart and properly reconnect the factory head-unit to the harness to power it up. They still admitted no fault and acted like they fixed a problem they didn't cause. So, I asked if, in the future, to avoid my being called a liar, I needed to go through every working detail on the car prior to having it serviced by their techs.

Then, maybe two or three months after that, the hard oil lines started leaking live a sieve and I had another choice to make -- fix those, or finally call it quits. Fixing them required pulling the engine, again! I tried to negotiate the price downward, first cordially, then arguing the dealer should have seen the hard-lines were rusting out when they replaced the engine. They said, "we're not in the business of replacing things that don't need replacing". I said, "well, first, they are rusting out, so...they did need replacing, unless you contend this rust damage all occurred over a two month period during the summer" then "secondly, you replaced my clutch even though, by your own admission, it had plenty of miles left" moreover I said, "and, at that time, I specifically asked you to check for anything else that should be done while the engine was out so it didn't need to be pulled again for a while." Then, a nice sarcastic, "guess those hard-lines weren't in your purview". They weren't happy with my reasoning, lol. They wouldn't move on the replacement costs of the lines, not even give me a labor discount to pull the engine.

At was at this point I told them I would never be a Mazda customer again and any chance I get I will lay their incompetence bare.... Well, you gave me another chance, so...thanks! SCREW MAZDA! ;) More, definitely screw rotary engines! The Mazda techs 'round these parts were incompetent to begin with, but their knowledge of the Renesis engine was pathetic!

Now, I drive a Porsche Cayman S which, in every aspect, is a major upgrade from the RX-8. More, the Porsche dealer gave me a 10% discount on the car (which I pre-ordered) and way overvalued my RX-8 as a trade even with the knowledge (because I am honest to a fault and told them) that it was leaking oil like crazy -- at least I "recovered" the engine replacement money, which was all I wanted at that point.
 

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The car analogy is off base. I don’t think AV gear for hobbiest has the same scrutiny, regulation, and safety guidelines.

Maybe, that's why I also included a DSLR camera. Certainly comparable and I can guarantee you that those buyers would not just accept a camera that performed below promised specs.
 

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I don't want to derail much longer, but I think there certainly is a committed rotary base. However, I know I started asking the "regular Joe owner" at stop lights how many miles and whenever the answer was above 70k I'd ask "first engine or second" -- nearly all laughed and many (too many) said "second".

Upon graduating college, I bought a new Mazda 6 not long after the RX-8 was released. I remember drooling over the RX-8, but now I should be thankful it was way out of my price range.
 

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Upon graduating college, I bought a new Mazda 6 not long after the RX-8 was released. I remember drooling over the RX-8, but now I should be thankful it was way out of my price range.
Especially in Dallas, I read that more cars were having issues in hot regions. Plus, maybe you would enjoy adding oil often, for me, it got old fast. I think that was the biggest issue -- oil light comes on, "ugh, not this again", and if I didn't have any on hand I would be driving around to get some. I knew the engine "ate oil" by design before purchasing the car. Alas, it required adding oil more frequently than I'd have liked. More, there is speculation that the '04/'05 model years metered less oil injection than really necessary for longevity. Quite possibly to further lessen the frequency of "please add oil" indications that Mazda figured would ultimately annoy, and did. The trade-off of engine life didn't seem to concern them...until it did, lol. But, couple that with many people (myself included at times) not immediately having oil to add and driving around with low oil to shop for oil.... Car was a PITA! Be very thankful to have dodged that bullet!

Back on topic...I hope this JBL pre isn't a bullet we all should be dodging! I think they'll (and Arcam, I guess) will get their act together. Else, they go the way of the rotary!?
 

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I don't want to derail much longer, but I think there certainly is a committed rotary base. However, I know I started asking the "regular Joe owner" at stop lights how many miles and whenever the answer was above 70k I'd ask "first engine or second" -- nearly all laughed and many (too many) said "second".

For a while, though, Mazda was helping replace engines, even slightly outside warranty, if they had provable compression issues. I begged the dealer to have mine replaced in this way as the car consistently failed or was very difficult to restart after it warmed up. It left me stranded many nights requiring tow or waiting a long time for the engine to cool and then using a PITA de-flood procedure to get it to restart, which didn't always work...requiring tow, lol. I towed that car a lot. Alas, the inept dealer kept saying, "it's just your starter, it needs to spin faster" and I said, "no, do a compression test, I read all over that hot-restart problems are a symptom of low compression".

Finally, the dealer performed a compression test -- seemingly incorrectly, though, as the numbers made zero sense to me. So, I scanned and posted the results they gave me on an RX-8 specific forum (like I did it, not like a dealer did) in the tech garage section and everyone said something like, "who ran that test?" or "these numbers are meaningless, did you use the wrong procedure?" or "these numbers don't even make sense, you're an idiot." Of course, the dealer called the compression "test" adequate, and wouldn't budge; my problem, in their opinion, "was the starter".

Livid, and telling them "this is just a band-aid and I'm not happy", I let them install a new starter. Unsurprisingly to me, the new starter did not help for long. About a month later the engine wouldn't start again at all and this time the dealer said, "yeah, you have no compression in the rear chamber". WELL NO S__T! By that time, I had been fighting for months that it was low compression and not the starter. But, now I was told "the replacement program has ended" and "you have to pay for the new engine yourself". Well, that or buy a new car with a non-running pile of crap for a trade.

Like a total fool, but hoping I could just keep my (finally) fully paid off car going for another few years, I replaced the engine, and clutch, and few other things. The dealer even messed up my outboard amp in the process. Better, they tried to tell me it "wasn't working when you brought it in, we didn't touch anything that would impact your amp". This, of course, was false. I knew they had to mess with the wiring harnesses under the dash for one of the fixes they made and the harness for the amp was under there. I finally made them rip it apart and properly reconnect the factory head-unit to the harness to power it up. They still admitted no fault and acted like they fixed a problem they didn't cause. So, I asked if, in the future, to avoid my being called a liar, I needed to go through every working detail on the car prior to having it serviced by their techs.

Then, maybe two or three months after that, the hard oil lines started leaking live a sieve and I had another choice to make -- fix those, or finally call it quits. Fixing them required pulling the engine, again! I tried to negotiate the price downward, first cordially, then arguing the dealer should have seen the hard-lines were rusting out when they replaced the engine. They said, "we're not in the business of replacing things that don't need replacing". I said, "well, first, they are rusting out, so...they did need replacing, unless you contend this rust damage all occurred over a two month period during the summer" then "secondly, you replaced my clutch even though, by your own admission, it had plenty of miles left" moreover I said, "and, at that time, I specifically asked you to check for anything else that should be done while the engine was out so it didn't need to be pulled again for a while." Then, a nice sarcastic, "guess those hard-lines weren't in your purview". They weren't happy with my reasoning, lol. They wouldn't move on the replacement costs of the lines, not even give me a labor discount to pull the engine.

At was at this point I told them I would never be a Mazda customer again and any chance I get I will lay their incompetence bare.... Well, you gave me another chance, so...thanks! SCREW MAZDA! ;) More, definitely screw rotary engines! The Mazda techs 'round these parts were incompetent to begin with, but their knowledge of the Renesis engine was pathetic!

Now, I drive a Porsche Cayman S which, in every aspect, is a major upgrade from the RX-8. More, the Porsche dealer gave me a 10% discount on the car (which I pre-ordered) and way overvalued my RX-8 as a trade even with the knowledge (because I am honest to a fault and told them) that it was leaking oil like crazy -- at least I "recovered" the engine replacement money, which was all I wanted at that point.
I had a similar known failure with a Merc C350 at about 100000 miles, first 6000 350 engines had dud timing cogs. Oddly enough I bought a new 981 Cayman after that and have not had a single issue, great car (Only managed 9% discount on mine to order).
 

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I had a similar known failure with a Merc C350 at about 100000 miles, first 6000 350 engines had dud timing cogs. Oddly enough I bought a new 981 Cayman after that and have not had a single issue, great car (Only managed 9% discount on mine to order).
Mine has also, so far, been wonderful. I had one hiccup, but I have aftermarket catless headers and tune and that was probably the issue. It was cold out (super cold) and I romped on it pretty hard because, well, cold weather makes more power. It threw a complete CEL fit and put me in limp mode the rest of the way home. I pulled the code, I think it was a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor out of range. I believe the tune opened the throttle too much with cold dense air and...well, car didn't like it. Reset the computer, no issues since.

Funny how many people love both cars and A/V! It seems cars quickly become a thread derailment that gets traction. Well, at least I didn't start it...this time, :D. Of course, I have just furthered it more than I said I would, so.... :eek:
 

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Mine has also, so far, been wonderful. I had one hiccup, but I have aftermarket catless headers and tune and that was probably the issue. It was cold out (super cold) and I romped on it pretty hard because, well, cold weather makes more power. It threw a complete CEL fit and put me in limp mode the rest of the way home. I pulled the code, I think it was a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor out of range. I believe the tune opened the throttle too much with cold dense air and...well, car didn't like it. Reset the computer, no issues since.

Funny how many people love both cars and A/V! It seems cars quickly become a thread derailment that gets traction. Well, at least I didn't start it...this time, :D. Of course, I have just furthered it more than I said I would, so.... :eek:
I like the logic :) Mine apparently needs the airbag firmware updated although it seems they aren't in a hurry and Corona put a stop to that anyway. Mine is just the 2.7 so I spend quite a bit of time up in the fun zone above 5000RPM and I've been considering the Akrapovic exhaust, pricey but that metallic howl sounds quite special. Which exhaust/headers did you get?

To offer a little bit on topic info, my guess is we are one week from new firmware :)
 

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Also, in Trinnov's case, they started as a company oriented towards pro audio and cinema. Working with high end audio and hi-fi was initially a secondary application for them, at least until the Altitude was developed.

And from what I understand Trinnov is doing VERY well financially in regard to Altitude sales. There is something to be said about paying more, but being guaranteed a high quality, seamless and stable experience that is truly upgradable (and not so much “disposable” as the low-mid market brands that refresh every year or two).
 

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Finally, I was able to find enough quiet time to do my Dirac setup. Although I have a UMIK, I used the OEM one to avoid any potential issues. 98% of the process went without any hitch. I had one error at the end after I exported the filters where the Dirac app stopped communicating with the JBL which I fixed by rebooting the processor. I did 11 measurements and exported 3 filters (default, +6db and +10db). I am planning to do some comparison testing over next few days.

Just wanted to add my $0.02.
 

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Dirac has set all my speaker levels at -10 db and subs are close to -2db. Is this normal? I am new to Dirac so don't have enough knowledge to draw any conclusion but my understanding is that speakers are set at lower level to match them with the ones that are at 0 db but in my case all are set at -10db.

Also, when I change the filter to +6db or +10db the levels of individual subs in the speaker level section is unchanged.
 

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Where can I find the calibration file for the microphone that came with JBL? I see one listed on the Arcam AV40 page. Are they identical?
 

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Has anyone tried the denta output yet?
yes dante working @ 1MS / 48khz. I can't get any atmos decoding on channels 13,14,15,16 even-though if you do logic16, audio does pass.
There doesn't seem to be a way to set channels 13,14,15,16 for anything other than front/rear subs either :(
DIRAC setup this weekend though :):cool:
 

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Yes I also did not see how to set one of those channels to have just one sub. I was having a problem with the Dirac calibration keeping on telling me I had a low signal to noise ratio because it would always measure a sub that was not there. If you make the regular subwoofer output a subwoofer and then have three more subs then that leaves one of the channels still open.
 

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Yes I also did not see how to set one of those channels to have just one sub. I was having a problem with the Dirac calibration keeping on telling me I had a low signal to noise ratio because it would always measure a sub that was not there. If you make the regular subwoofer output a subwoofer and then have three more subs then that leaves one of the channels still open.
Did you try setting "Subwoofer" to None and setting two subs in either channels 13 and 14 or channels 15 and 16?
 

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Won't telling the system that there is no main subwoofer result in the main speakers not having low frequencies directed to the subs? Otherwise that does seem to be the right workaround. Of course the real fix is to just have an option in the settings to tell it exactly how many subs are on those outputs 🙂
 
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