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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
JimmyK's Home Theater Build -2.0! aka "The Yardstick Theater!" (a DIY Erskine Design)

Well I have been working on my theater for a while and it has been slowly building up in stages.

I want to thank everyone here for the great information that has made it possible to do my Build.

First I want to thank BIGmouthinDC for all of his responses to my questions and sharing all of his build information - Big's "Summer Fun" Build is what really sparked my interest:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-d...-summer-fun-just-10-minutes-down-parkway.html

And when it came time to finishing the build with the trim I have been using multiple threads and I want to thank Mario for sharing his info in his build thread here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-d...cinemar-home-theater-construction-thread.html

There are many others and I will share what I can from my build.

BEFORE

It started when I had the basement finished 2 years ago and here is what version 1.0 looked like:













CURRENT PROGRESS
What follows is the progression to version 2.0!

Here is a sneak peak at where I am today - near completion - hope to have the final pictures posted by next week:



























Test fitting of wainscoting with 2" edge:




Didn't like it so went with 4" per Mario's advice - The center sections are Black DMD fabric - I put these in since the wainscoting panel I made is sitting 2" off the wall and I didn't want to create a "box" and allow for any resonance





My wife is ready for the theater to be completed! :)






Hope you enjoy - JimmyK
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
SEATING
- 6 Coaster Showtime Theater Recliners

SPEAKERS
- LCR - Polk Audio RTi A9 (Center speaker behind AT Screen/False wall)
- Side Surrounds - 2 Triad Silver In-wall surrounds (In Side Columns)
- Rear Surrounds - 2 Triad Bronze In-wall surounds (in Rear Columns)
- Wides - 2 Triad InCeiling Bronze/8 LCRs (in Front Columns)
- Ceiling - 4 Micca M-8C 8"


SUBWOOFER
- SVS PC13-Ultra (Behind Screen False Wall)

SCREEN
- DIY Seymour Center Stage XD Acoustic Fabric - 16:9 - 135" Diagonal over DIY Frame

EQUIPMENT
- Epson 5050 Projector (Replaced Epson 5040 which replaced 5030 which replaced Epson 6010)
- Denon 6200 (Replaced Onkyo 3009 AVR)
- Crown XLS 2500 Amp (L and R channels)
- Crown XLS 1500 Amp (C channel)
- OPPO BDP-93 Blu Ray Player
- Philips HUE Lights
- Lutron Caseta
- Simple Control (formerly Roomie Remote) on iPad
- Logitech Harmony Companion
- Nvidia Shield

FABRIC
- DMD Black and Maroon
http://www.acoustimac.com/dmd-acoustic-fabric/

PAINT
- Valspar "Ancient Burgundy" number 1011-6
- Behr Mouse Ears Black Eggshell (only for the Wainscoting)
- Behr Mouse Ears Black Flat (everywhere else black was called for)

THEATER DESIGN
- Erskine Basic Plan

ACOUSTIC DESIGN/Consultation
- Erskine and GIK Acoustics

BASS SHAKERS
- 6 Aura Pro Bass Shakers (driven by 300W BASH Plate AMP)


Sources used for materials:
- 1" thick Linacoustic - http://mccormickinsulation.com/ in Manassas VA - ~$200 for the roll (I forget the length - give them a call)
Link to their products - Linacoustic on page 9

- DIY Sound Panels - Knauf Ecose 2" x 24" x 48" - GIK Acoustics - $67 per 6 pack
- FSK Tape - Amazon - $14


Corner Bass Traps - ROCKWOOL SAFE n SOUND R- Stone Wool Batt Insulation with Sound Barrier (23-in W x 47-in L) $63 per pack of 8 at Lowes






 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Stage Build - Posted

False Screen Wall Build - Posted

Riser Build - Posted

DIY Screen Build - Posted

Corner Bass Traps - Posted

New Walls! - Posted

Columns Build with in-column speakers - Posted

Soffit Build - Posted

Wainscoting - Posted

Wall Panels - Posted

Final pictures of the completed room - Coming Soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Stage Build

Plans for the stage:










Stage Framed out:

I used 2x8 for stage height and 2x4 for the step





The Stage has a 1/2" gap on each side so it doesn't touch the walls
6 Mil plastic and about 2500 pounds of sand








Plastic all trimmed up





Fitting the first OSB board








Top half of stage completed - Also framed out right side wall so that Linacoustic could be added to the front 3 "walls"












Ready for Linacoustinc and the False Wall
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Riser Build - 15" Height

Riser Build - 15" height needed to clear first row














Filled with Fluffy Stuff - Test fitting the chair:













I had carpet left over from when the basement was finished - Just enough for the riser and the stage



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Screen Build - DIY 135" 16:9

Screen Build - DIY 135" 16:9 using Seymour AV Center Stage XD - DIY Cut at an angle: http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp



I built the screen frame using 1x4 pine boards. At the time I couldn't find the Finger Pine that Big uses but this turned out just fine. I offset the center braces by placing washers between the brackets and the outer frame. This prevents the screen fabric from touching the vertical frame supports. I painted the frame with Mouse Ears Flat Black Paint.

I installed about 70 Grommets using a kit from Home Depot - requires a hammer - hit my thumb 3 times! Next time I will pay the extra $ to have Seymour AV install them :)

I folded the edge to get "double" fabric between the grommets - this caused the edges to bunch up. I ended up trimming off the fabric between the grommets and it worked out just fine. I believe I ordered the o-rings from Amazon - been a while - I would have to check. These are also available from Seymour AV.





























I used "T" brackets and "L" brackets for the corners and vertical supports.








I used the metal French Cleats available at Home Depot to hang the screen.


















 

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Very nice!

Question regarding the 1/2" gap between the stage and wall -- did you fill that gap in with rock-wool or something to keep gunk from falling between the crack?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Very nice!

Question regarding the 1/2" gap between the stage and wall -- did you fill that gap in with rock-wool or something to keep gunk from falling between the crack?
Thanks -
The gap is actually covered by the two layers Linacoustic that is attached to the wall. In my final pictures you will see my frame panels that surround the screen on the false wall. Pretty much no access when these panels are up so nothing to fall in the gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Bass Traps

I used Roxul Rock Wool for the Corner Bass Traps on the stage.

I originally used some spray adhesive to keep the Roxul "stuck" in the corners.

That didn't work so well - one day when I went downstairs there had been an avalanche!











So I added some 2x2s so I could staple some speaker cloth over the traps to keep them in place.








So far so good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
New Walls!

As per the plans - here are the new walls to make the room somewhat symmetrical for sound treatments.





I will eventually be moving the Media Cabinet to the right....





Pressure Treated and .22 nail gun to anchor to the floor


I built a staggered studded wall - not really to "sound proof" but to keep any kids noises cut down as much as we can. During the Superbowl we had a lot of neighbors over and a lot of kids were running in front of the screen - this will help keep them on their side of the room....























Drywall up on the theater side


The new back wall












View through the new doorway entering into the theater:



View of the right wall facing forward:




My oldest daughter seeing the new walls for the first time "WOW - When did you do this????"


 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Columns with surround speakers

Each of the 6 columns have speakers in them. The front two on the side walls act as the "wide" speakers, the rear two on the side walls are the "surround - left and right", and the two columns on the rear wall are the "Rear Surround" channels.

I built the columns out of 3/4" MDF and used Titebond glue and Kreg Jig Pocket Holes to hold them together. After the glue dried for a day I removed the screws from the pocket holes so I could use a router to round the edges. The screws were too long and would have hit the router bit. The glue holds just fine on its own.

The total column dimensions are 14" wide by 6" deep. I had to mount them 2.5" off the wall for the front wide speakers as the In Ceiling speakers I used as the wides are about 7.5" deep. The columns on the rear wall were also moved out so they would be flush with the two Monster Bass Traps from GIK Acoustics.




Kreg Jig Pocket Holes to hold together until the glue dries:




Jigsaw cutouts for the Triad in wall surround speakers:






Part of the assembly line:



Painted Mouse Ears Black:




Triad In-Wall Surround added:



Triad In-Wall Speaker Grill Added - HOPE IT DOESN'T SHOW UNDER THE DMD BLACK FABRIC!!!!



Original "Built in" Column Location - DO NOT BUILD YOUR COLUMNS UNTIL AFTER THE DRYWALL STAGE - Build them separately....



Luckily it was very close to where I needed it to be. But I did have to make the opening bigger to fit the Triad Speaker:



View of the Triad In-Wall Surround attached to the Column:





YAY!!! - The White Grills don't show through the DMD Black Fabric! Looks like I probably didn't need to paint the columns black either!!! Oh Well - at least I know the paint is there :rolleyes: This is installed over the original drywall column:




Rear columns flush mounted with the GIK Monster Bass Traps. I joined two Monster Bass Traps together and covered with DMD Maroon Fabric:





View of the back of one of the the "wide" speaker columns. Still need the DMD fabric stretched and stapled in place:


 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Soffit Build

The soffits are 8" high and 12" deep.

Marked the soffit and stud locations:





Added 2x2 furring to attach the bottom of the drywall:



Used metal channel to build the vertical faces of the soffits:



Pilot holes in metal channel and 2x2s to make attachment easier:




Used Power Grab or Liquid Nails to make the ladders stiffer:










Used drywall screws to hold in place:





Used Liquid Nails and drywall screws to attach to ceiling:




Soffit framing up in place:




Attached drywall to the bottom of the soffits:







I made removable panels for the sides using yardsticks, titebond, and rare earth magnets. The magnets are attached with crazy glue and then DMD fabric is stretched and stapled over the panel:






If you look closely you can see a finished black panel on the left and I am test fitting the frame on the right. Worked out great! Makes it easy to access the soffits and I will be adding recessed lighting later. Also makes it easy to add any additional wires that are needed:




 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Wainscoting

So for the Wainscoting I used 1/2" MDF. I used the 1/2" MDF since the panel will be sitting out from the wall to be flush with the fabric panels that I built.

I ripped 2" thick furring strips on the table saw and attached to the wall for the 1/2" panels to attach to.

I used Zinsser BIN Primer on the MDF before painting Mouse Ears Black Eggshell.


1/2" MDF Primed and marked with the cut lines. I cut out the area highlighted with the black lines using a jig saw to create a 1" frame for the DMD Black cloth material







Primer used on the MDF:





I assembled the trim using a miter saw, wood glue in the corners and a pin nailer to hold together. I then aligned the trim on the 1/2" MDF and used a pin nailer to hold in place.
The trim is partially over the openings to hold the fabric panels flush with the 1/2" MDF when they are reattached.
I used a pneumatic staple gun to hold the fabic panels to the back of the 1/2" panels.





Here are some pictures of the assembled panels. I painted the trim Mouse Ears Black Eggshell before attaching the fabric panels.

The Fabric is a very close match and it is very difficult to tell that it is there. The idea for the fabric was to make sure that i didn't create a closed "box" on the wall that could resonate. Not sure if this really makes a difference or not but it was fun making the panels!

I used a finishing nail gun to attach to the furring strips on the wall. In this picture the panel is just sitting on the floor:





 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Wall Panels

For the Wall Panels I ripped 1.5" wide strips from 2x4s and 2x6s - whatever I had left over or on hand.

I then set the fence on the table saw to 1" and set the blade to a 45 degree angle to make a 1/2" chamfer cut for the outside edges.

The panels were then attached using 3" deck screws and titebond glue.

The Maroon fabric was then stapled to the frames.


Boards ripped and cut to length:



Using ripped down 2x4, 2x6, and some finger pine that I bought to do the panels around the screen on the false wall:



Painted Mouse Ears Flat Black:






Frame assembled for the door. Insulation panels were installed on the doors before the panels were attached as they are first reflection points:




Rolls of DMD Acoustic Fabric in Maroon and Black:











 

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