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Discussion Starter #41
I definitely love the fabric panel idea its going to make it feel like a completely different room. I really cant wait to see how this all comes together

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Yeah I’m pretty excited. Honestly I’m most worried about the doors. I have to figure out a plan for doors. I always end up cutting them down, because of low ceiling height. Then how does a door frame get installed in a decoupled wall? How does the drywall interact with it? How will the molding look with a wall that’s different total thickness above and below the chair rail? Many questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Here’s a sneak peek above my current ceiling. I just threw 2 pieces of 3/4” material under the joists, just to show the new ceiling height, and I’m excited about getting 1.5” more height. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #44

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Here’s a sneak peek above my current ceiling. I just threw 2 pieces of 3/4” material under the joists, just to show the new ceiling height, and I’m excited about getting 1.5” more height. Lol
Oh. I see. You're removing a drop ceiling. Forgot about that part. Good idea to give yourself a little more height.

Also, I have already built a bedroom in our basement. A standard door with jamb and framing fit with no cutting necessary. 7 feet height- concrete slab to floor joist bottoms
 

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Hey Jared this finished product will be amazing and I really think you are going in the right direction. One I would still do if you are going all out with sound proofing don’t skip a wall just because, I think you may regret it down the road. Do it right the second time lol.

As for filling the whole cavity I am not sure if that is the right thing to do, I always thought an air gap is highly recommended. Putting drywall and GG under the subfloor is highly recommended, it really stops the transfer of sound, I wished I did that. I know @BIGmouthinDC could really help out in this area, especially the way to keep your door decoupled from the ceiling.


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Yeah I’m pretty excited. Honestly I’m most worried about the doors. I have to figure out a plan for doors. I always end up cutting them down, because of low ceiling height. Then how does a door frame get installed in a decoupled wall? How does the drywall interact with it? How will the molding look with a wall that’s different total thickness above and below the chair rail? Many questions.
I'll take a pic of mine it dosent look bad having the moldings at diffrent thicknesses. Im sure Jeff will have a answer for the door.

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Discussion Starter #48
Hey Jared this finished product will be amazing and I really think you are going in the right direction. One I would still do if you are going all out with sound proofing don’t skip a wall just because, I think you may regret it down the road. Do it right the second time lol.

As for filling the whole cavity I am not sure if that is the right thing to do, I always thought an air gap is highly recommended. Putting drywall and GG under the subfloor is highly recommended, it really stops the transfer of sound, I wished I did that. I know @BIGmouthinDC could really help out in this area, especially the way to keep your door decoupled from the ceiling.


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I’m definitely not skipping a wall just because. But because there’s a concrete foundation wall on the other side of it! So from a practical perspective, especially given the fact that even if I was able to go all out from scratch, people are telling me to be careful what I expect from the efforts because sound especially bass still will get through, I’m not gonna do clips and channel on the two outside walls. I’ll add a layer of drywall with green glue, but that’s it. It will save me a lot of pain.
And I will not be filling the entire joist cavity. There will be an airgap. I don’t think I said I was filling it completely, maybe I misled you on that by something I said.
Anyway, I’m sure with fully closing in the room, the ceiling treatments, extra drywall, and clips and channel on the interior walls of the room, my goals will be achieved well enough. Stop the major sound escaping, and improve the sound quality in the room.
Of course this is all just talk without numbers to support my thinking. I know the STC is like 75 for the entire ceiling setup. Walls will be 62 with clips and channel, and the exterior two walls only low 40’s. But all together it may average out? I don’t really know. I never did any soundproofing because it was always said “all or nothing” and “sound still gets through” so just trying to be realistic and balanced.

 

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I’m definitely not skipping a wall just because. But because there’s a concrete foundation wall on the other side of it! So from a practical perspective, especially given the fact that even if I was able to go all out from scratch, people are telling me to be careful what I expect from the efforts because sound especially bass still will get through, I’m not gonna do clips and channel on the two outside walls. I’ll add a layer of drywall with green glue, but that’s it. It will save me a lot of pain.
And I will not be filling the entire joist cavity. There will be an airgap. I don’t think I said I was filling it completely, maybe I misled you on that by something I said.
Anyway, I’m sure with fully closing in the room, the ceiling treatments, extra drywall, and clips and channel on the interior walls of the room, my goals will be achieved well enough. Stop the major sound escaping, and improve the sound quality in the room.
Of course this is all just talk without numbers to support my thinking. I know the STC is like 75 for the entire ceiling setup. Walls will be 62 with clips and channel, and the exterior two walls only low 40’s. But all together it may average out? I don’t really know. I never did any soundproofing because it was always said “all or nothing” and “sound still gets through” so just trying to be realistic and balanced.


Hey I know you didn’t say you were going to fill the whole cavity but I should of clarified that someone did just didn’t want you to do that.

I get it as per that wall I just didn’t want you to regret it a year from now, I just like spending other people’s money lol

I’ve been in that room and to control that bass good luck


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Hey I know you didn’t say you were going to fill the whole cavity but I should of clarified that someone did just didn’t want you to do that.

I get it as per that wall I just didn’t want you to regret it a year from now, I just like spending other people’s money lol

I’ve been in that room and to control that bass good luck


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I was the one that said fill the void. And as per the picture you quoted, the STC62 example is just that, a filled void between the studs. You obviously don't want to have the plasterboard on the hat channels touch that insulation but the air gap provided by the hat channel itself is enough.
 
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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Thanks guys for the help so far. It’s a lot to think about. But it should all start making some sense once I really get into it.

Ya know, I did forget something in my excitement. There was a wall separating my stairs when I moved into this house. I tore it out ASAP because it sucked getting bigger stuff into or out of my basement. That instant 90 at the bottom really get me. Nothing long will ever go. Or like a washer/dryer if they ever need replacement, would be hard to get down there. Or replacement of my furnace, man, this is making me think twice on my plan.
 

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If you're ever interested in coming over and taking a peek at my space Jared, you'd be welcome. Not that mine is anything perfect, but just another design to look at. Love the idea of making your space more into a theater feel!

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Discussion Starter #54
If you're ever interested in coming over and taking a peek at my space Jared, you'd be welcome. Not that mine is anything perfect, but just another design to look at. Love the idea of making your space more into a theater feel!

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PM me your address. I’d love to see how far from Ann Arbor you are. That’s where I’m working for the next couple weeks potentially.
Lars, you are the man. Thanks.
Even though I’ll just leave jealous of your huge room.
 

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PM me your address. I’d love to see how far from Ann Arbor you are. That’s where I’m working for the next couple weeks potentially.
Lars, you are the man. Thanks.
Even though I’ll just leave jealous of your huge room.
My room is only 16x22 so not huge, but a good size for my needs. But that's why I thought you might like to see what I did, just for an idea of how to maximize space in a modestly sized room. I'll pm my address.

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Doug's Remodel Build Thread
@Jk7.2
Hey Jared. Just ran across this thread. Check it out if you haven't already. It might help you solve your door framing dilemma. 👍
Trying to help however I can.
 

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This will be exciting to see take shape. It's too bad that beam is so low. it would be nice to be able to rotate the room. What if you moved it to the other side of the beam and flipped it 180? I'm thinking it might be a bit narrower but you could gain some depth. It would also solve your bottom of stairs delima. You might loose your bathroom though.

Also, once you get started, I'd be willing to lend a hand on a Saturday. I'd love to help out and get some experience building a proper theater so I'll have a better idea of what to do whenever I start mine.
 

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I wouldn’t remove the blocking between joists without some research, simple blocks between joists wont do the same thing. The blocking is wedged in at an angle and nailed so it distributes the load. You might add a lot of squeaks and pops to the upstairs floor.

A couple layers of 5/8 drywall and GG is amazing. (The suggestion of a layer of osb is good too, then you can screw to that later) Even with my door open in my last basement it made a huge impact. Also, don’t go nuts and box in your electric and speaker/data boxes, use the fire stop clay and be done. Way faster and if you need to rework later, much easier.

Subscribing, this will be good!
 

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Square blocking is no different than diagonal from a engineering perspective.......it spreads the load out and keeps the unsecured bottoms from from deflecting/twisting under load, which results in buckling failure before load failure point is reached.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
This will be exciting to see take shape. It's too bad that beam is so low. it would be nice to be able to rotate the room. What if you moved it to the other side of the beam and flipped it 180? I'm thinking it might be a bit narrower but you could gain some depth. It would also solve your bottom of stairs delima. You might loose your bathroom though.

Also, once you get started, I'd be willing to lend a hand on a Saturday. I'd love to help out and get some experience building a proper theater so I'll have a better idea of what to do whenever I start mine.

I have brainstormed every possible theater location. I’m stuck where I am. But it’s gonna be a lot better soon.
Yeah I ain’t moving that bathroom either! Lol

Well that is an excellent offer. Unfortunately Saturdays are reserved only for stuffing insulation, or humping drywall down the steps at 12’ lengths. But since you volunteered!
 
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