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I'm replacing both my Klipsch 12" 400 watt and 10" 300 watt subs with one SVS PC13 Ultra 1000 RMS, 3600 watt peak.

Just wondering if others have done something similar , and what was the final verdict ?

My room is 12" x 30' x 7.5' and I already have bass shakers in all of the 6 dedicated theater seats. My 12" was not in an ideal
location and I wasn't really realizing the full potential of that sub I believe. The two subs did however fill in the room evenly
I hope that will not be lost.

Anyway, just hoping I didn't make a mistake.:confused:
 

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I'm replacing both my Klipsch 12" 400 watt and 10" 300 watt subs with one SVS PC13 Ultra 1000 RMS, 3600 watt peak.

Just wondering if others have done something similar , and what was the final verdict ?

My room is 12" x 30' x 7.5' and I already have bass shakers in all of the 6 dedicated theater seats. My 12" was not in an ideal
location and I wasn't really realizing the full potential of that sub I believe. The two subs did however fill in the room evenly
I hope that will not be lost.

Anyway, just hoping I didn't make a mistake.:confused:
Do you realize this is the DIY section ?
 

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I didn't want to get just 1 little ported sub.;)

So I built this for $100 less than than a SVS PC13 Ultra.





















16x 12" subs with 2,500W RMS. Without room gain: 105db at 5hz, 115db at 10hz, 125db at 20hz, and 135db above 40hz:D


You can hardly notice it behind my couch.


I would keep all 3 subs and even add more to even out your room response, generally 4 subs will give you excellent results.
 

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I'm replacing both my Klipsch 12" 400 watt and 10" 300 watt subs with one SVS PC13 Ultra 1000 RMS, 3600 watt peak.

Just wondering if others have done something similar , and what was the final verdict ?

My room is 12" x 30' x 7.5' and I already have bass shakers in all of the 6 dedicated theater seats. My 12" was not in an ideal
location and I wasn't really realizing the full potential of that sub I believe. The two subs did however fill in the room evenly
I hope that will not be lost.

Anyway, just hoping I didn't make a mistake.:confused:
Are you asking whether there is a diy build you could have done that would yield you better results for the same price? If not, you would get the answer you seek in the Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you realize this is the DIY section ?
Sorry, my mistake will repost in the correct thread. I could be a DIY guy though maybe I'll hang out for a while and take a look around.
 
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Sorry, my mistake will repost in the correct thread. I could be a DIY guy though maybe I'll hang out for a while and take a look around.
Good idea if you like $...then again the upgrade bug will eat the savings....unless you build it and never come back!
 

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I didn't want to get just 1 little ported sub.


So I built this for $100 less than than a SVS PC13 Ultra.






















16x 12" subs with 2,500W RMS. Without room gain: 105db at 5hz, 115db at 10hz, 125db at 20hz, and 135db above 40hz



You can hardly notice it behind my couch.


I would keep all 3 subs and even add more to even out your room response, generally 4 subs will give you excellent results.
Sweet Jesus. Are those the dual voice cool version of the 1262?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I didn't want to get just 1 little ported sub.;)

So I built this for $100 less than than a SVS PC13 Ultra.























16x 12" subs with 2,500W RMS. Without room gain: 105db at 5hz, 115db at 10hz, 125db at 20hz, and 135db above 40hz:D


You can hardly notice it behind my couch.


I would keep all 3 subs and even add more to even out your room response, generally 4 subs will give you excellent results.
Impressive specs and work for the price . I see what looks like a case for a calibrated mike at the bottom of picture too, I assume you did the bass readings yourself?
 

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Sweet Jesus. Are those the dual voice cool version of the 1262?
Yes, they are the DVC Infinity 1262W. I have a few more too. Build link is in my sig.

Impressive specs and work for the price . I see what looks like a case for a calibrated mike at the bottom of picture too, I assume you did the bass readings yourself?
Thanks, I collected parts at the best prices I could find over a couple months. The box is for a Cross Spectrum UMIK-1. It won't measure that high, so the db values are taken off of winisd. 30hz and below is higher than listed, with room gain.
 

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Sorry, my mistake will repost in the correct thread. I could be a DIY guy though maybe I'll hang out for a while and take a look around.
DIY will blow away manufactured speakers. 99db sensitivity and 500W/channel for mains with 8x-16x 18" subs on ten thousand (or 30,000) watts of power isn't out of place in this section. Dynamics...music and movies has them.:D

Take a look at diysoundgroup and the seos, and some of the sub builds here, maybe we'll convert you. It may be a bit shocking when you see what you could've built for the same price as what you bought.:eek:
 

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I didn't want to get just 1 little ported sub.;)

So I built this for $100 less than than a SVS PC13 Ultra.





















16x 12" subs with 2,500W RMS. Without room gain: 105db at 5hz, 115db at 10hz, 125db at 20hz, and 135db above 40hz:D


You can hardly notice it behind my couch.


I would keep all 3 subs and even add more to even out your room response, generally 4 subs will give you excellent results.
 

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I dig the 16 sub box above. Question though, and sorry if it's a dumb one but can't those drivers take about 300W RMS? If you're giving them 2500W total RMS that would be about half of what they can handle per driver or so, no? I get it if you're leaving lots of head room and allowing the drivers to perform comfortably, but I'd think you'd be leaving 3db on the table going with half of their power handling?
 

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I dig the 16 sub box above. Question though, and sorry if it's a dumb one but can't those drivers take about 300W RMS? If you're giving them 2500W total RMS that would be about half of what they can handle per driver or so, no? I get it if you're leaving lots of head room and allowing the drivers to perform comfortably, but I'd think you'd be leaving 3db on the table going with half of their power handling?
How much do you think that matters with those behind you? ;)
 

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I'm replacing both my Klipsch 12" 400 watt and 10" 300 watt subs with one SVS PC13 Ultra 1000 RMS, 3600 watt peak.

Just wondering if others have done something similar , and what was the final verdict ?

My room is 12" x 30' x 7.5' and I already have bass shakers in all of the 6 dedicated theater seats. My 12" was not in an ideal
location and I wasn't really realizing the full potential of that sub I believe. The two subs did however fill in the room evenly
I hope that will not be lost.

Anyway, just hoping I didn't make a mistake.:confused:
Sorry, my mistake will repost in the correct thread. I could be a DIY guy though maybe I'll hang out for a while and take a look around.

I would say cancel your order/return your SVS if you can. For around the price of that SVS you can build a pair of subs that will each single handedly smoke the single SVS. Even if you need to go the flat pack route and cant support 10+ ft3 boxes your budget allows for something like a pair of HST18s in stonehenge flat packs with an NU6000DSP.
 

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I dig the 16 sub box above. Question though, and sorry if it's a dumb one but can't those drivers take about 300W RMS? If you're giving them 2500W total RMS that would be about half of what they can handle per driver or so, no? I get it if you're leaving lots of head room and allowing the drivers to perform comfortably, but I'd think you'd be leaving 3db on the table going with half of their power handling?
They could probably handle 7200W, and I'd get the most out of them with that for a short time. I'll end up trying 4 bridged ep4000's on the Ruptured Spleen. But I want them to be bullet proof.
I've thermaled enough drivers already with heavy duty cycles and less than rated power. That box will play anything for hours without warming up too much, that's why the low power...And the amps were picked out for these subs to get to xmax in much bigger ported boxes.

Totaled up the drivers are rated for 4,800W rms/19,200W peak. Whatever that means...
 
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