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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the max. the SI HT18D4' can handle? I know a lot of people myself included are giving them 1100watts. As much as I like how these perform I have been thinking of adding more power. In my case since I did not buy a 6000DSP to start I was thinking of adding another 3000DSP using one amp per sub. ( For me it would be cheaper just to buy another 3000DSP then to try and sell mine and get a 6000DSP ). Last question if the SI HT18D4's cannot handle the 2200watts a bridged 3000DSP can deliver how are the Dayton UM18-22 as far as handling that power? Not overly concerned about it just thought I would ask. Being truthful at least for me my system is already borderline to loud.
 

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It has a weak motor and is thermal limited- you can easily cook things if you apply too much power, and you won't necessarily notice bad things in some situations.

At a certain point you only gain very little by appling more power. For instance- going from 600 watts to 1000 watts is a really small difference- perhaps a single db or two. Be smart. If you want louder- get more. I am sure Nick would not rather have to deal with silly warranty claims or deny them for stupidity. The HT18 isn't a sub you should dump stupid power into. I'd keep it to 3 digits.
 

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I currently have my limiter set to 2600 watts. I have not had an issue yet and I play it pretty loud during movies. We came to that limit based on the output voltage of the amp while playing measurment sweeps in REW. I am no expert but the guys on this forum helped me out to come to this conclusion.

So far so good!

Thats for the D2 version btw with a iNuke 3000DSP
 

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I think it depends on the box size ... if you have a 100L box, you probably could give it 1000W, but if you use a 200L size it would only take 600W to reach xmax. Its best to model it to verify what it can take safely.
 

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Mine runs into compression before I reach the limiter on my 3000 (-3db setting). It's a single ported bridged at 4ohms 6ft3 18.5hz. Dumping more power doesn't always add more spl. At a certain point you just start to create more heat. I will say that my SI18 has been a trooper with the abuse I've tossed at it. Compression tests are not friendly!

I doubt you will get any extra useful output with 2 bridged 3000s over a single 3000 at 2ohm stereo. Distortion might be better with 8ohms though.

The wattage would probably be the same anyways since you can't use the bridged 3000 at 4ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mine runs into compression before I reach the limiter on my 3000 (-3db setting). It's a single ported bridged at 4ohms 6ft3 18.5hz. Dumping more power doesn't always add more spl. At a certain point you just start to create more heat. I will say that my SI18 has been a trooper with the abuse I've tossed at it. Compression tests are not friendly!

I doubt you will get any extra useful output with 2 bridged 3000s over a single 3000 at 2ohm stereo. Distortion might be better with 8ohms though.

The wattage would probably be the same anyways since you can't use the bridged 3000 at 4ohms.
The D4 is a great sub no complaints. I am pushing mine sometimes the 4th light will once in awhile flicker most of the time it is usually 2 with the 3rd blinking at times. I did not think it would handle much more so I just wanted to be sure. So if I used the Dayton UM18-22 there would not be any real gain since it would have to be wired in series and the 3k only does approx. 1100 at 4ohms. Well that answers that question. Last question if I went with the Dayton UM-18 wired it in series used +1, +2 this would give approx. 2200w to each speaker correct and to be safe I adjust the limiter.
 

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A 3000 bridged to a single UM should gain you a little, but I’m not sure it would be worth it. You would have to sell off the SI18s at a loss and purchase more expensive replacements and an additional 3000. That’s a lot of investment for a little gain if any.

What does the UM look like in the martycube? Haven’t seen that model. In the larger martys the UM gives a little boost down low at the expense of the top end.

You’re at the cross-roads of efficient sane bass levels. Stepping up a noticeable notch will be a lot more difficult than the steps you took to get to this point. Either more drivers with more power, much more expensive drivers with more power, bigger boxes, or more complex alignments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I hate to say you are right I figured as much just kind of hoping there was a way to do it without spending a lot. If I had the room I would consider building a different enclosure but as it stands the MartyCubes have taken up what space I had plus they function as end tables. My only reasoning for asking I was just thinking (not all at once ) getting another amp then getting 2 different subs that could take more power but as you wrote it is going to take more money.I think I read in the Marty thread using the UM18 will only increase the SPL by 1or2 db. Like I originally wrote I was just curious.
 
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