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From my understanding some of the DLP's with the darkchip 3 have pretty decent blacks and I am used to watching a Pioneer Kuro. I have it calibrated and want good blacks and not overly bright whites that LCD's give you. So I am still considering which screen to go with
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 /forum/post/15812343


From my understanding some of the DLP's with the darkchip 3 have pretty decent blacks and I am used to watching a Pioneer Kuro. I have it calibrated and want good blacks and not overly bright whites that LCD's give you. So I am still considering which screen to go with

I would guess that "as is" the Melamine would be too bright for you. But you'll never know for sure until you try it. You could always return it if you don't like it. For me, the cheapest fixed frame screen I could find online was $250, so to get this for $35 was excellent. If I need to put a few coats of clear acrylic on it it's worth it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantumstate /forum/post/15812652


Clearcoating will yellow over the period of a year, and thence get worse. Better to actually paint it (pigment titanium dioxide).


Two true statements. TWH is meant to be considered as a "Ultra Smooth Reflective White Substrate" on which to paint....not a "Stand alone" Screen Doable fits the latter description.
 

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MM,

You seem to be very knowledgeable. I am used to watching a Kuro and I want deep blacks. Would you recommend using the melamine as described in this thread(I believe a matte clear coat?) or would you go with the gray laminate everyone uses? In a pitch black room
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 /forum/post/15812994


MM,

You seem to be very knowledgeable. I am used to watching a Kuro and I want deep blacks. Would you recommend using the melamine as described in this thread(I believe a matte clear coat?) or would you go with the gray laminate everyone uses? In a pitch black room

The Fashion Gray has had mixed results. It certainly will produce much better Blacks, but projector luminosity and positioning will affect it's performance.


The "Matte" Clear Coat won't do squat for Blacks, and only serve to attenuate light though diffraction. That simply means a duller image all around.


"PoP-less".
I say...."Poo Poo" to that!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/15814165


The Fashion Gray has had mixed results. It certainly will produce much better Blacks, but projector luminosity and positioning will affect it's performance.


The "Matte" Clear Coat won't do squat for Blacks, and only serve to attenuate light though diffraction. That simply means a duller image all around.


"PoP-less".
I say...."Poo Poo" to that!

I take it you are leaning toward Fashion Gray? Here are my plans... Sharp DT510 w/ a 10ft throw distance on a 92" screen. Dark Green walls with very minimal light during daytime with a lot of pitch black night time viewing. Go with the FG still? Want the best blacks/shadow detail although I know it won't match my Kuro. I find my plasma to be plenty bright if that helps narrow things down any better. Thanks in advance!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 /forum/post/15820321


I take it you are leaning toward Fashion Gray? Here are my plans... Sharp DT510 w/ a 10ft throw distance on a 92" screen. Dark Green walls with very minimal light during daytime with a lot of pitch black night time viewing. Go with the FG still? Want the best blacks/shadow detail although I know it won't match my Kuro. Thanks in advance!

Based on what you just related I'd vote against FG. The Sharp has no Lens Shift, and thereby the Lens cannot be set up high enough above the center/Top of the screen to avoid having the FG create an obvious Hot Spot issue.


The Sharp, used at that distance and screen size will blast any surface with 19 fl. That's plenty bright enough to utilize a fairly dark Gray. But using even a lighter Gray that can assist in making the 510's 4000:1 CR look "inkier" will provide more dependable results that should avoid any overt degree of "crush & attenuation".


The FG is far more expensive than Thrifty White Hardboard ($65-$80.00 vs $11.95) and with the latter you can effect either a simple Neutral Light Gray, using the PJ in Normal Lamp Mode, or add a reflectivity quotient to the paint and run the 510 on Economy.


The latter will also help to deepen and maintain the available Black levels of the Sharp. Here's what I suggest.


Buy some TWH. ($11.95) (Home Depot) Pick a blemish free sheet. Buy a Wagner Control Spray ($70.00) Get a quart of any "Light" neutral Gray paint formula ($12.00) and spray it directly onto the TWH over 4 successive thinly applied applications. You'll be out approx. $94.00, but you will have a light gray Screen that will ramp up your "perceived" black levels, while being able to produce very acceptable non-crushed colors and non-attenuated whites when the 510 is used in Normal Lamp mode.


If you want to go a bit further and run in Economy Mode for even better Contrast that is more akin to the Kuro, you'll want to use a 'enlightened' DIY Mixture with some degree of additional reflectivity built in. In that there are a few different choices, but whatever is considered, the close proximity of the PJ's lens means the Screen's reflectivity absolutely HAS to be non retro-reflective in nature.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler /forum/post/15804256

Melamine is used to make laminate materials like Formica . Many people use the word melamine when refereing to laminate counter top materials. You can buy sheet material at stores like Lowes and Home Depot that already have a hardened surface like laminate. People also refere to these sheet products as melamine.

Melamine is a baked on finish that is part of the manufacturing process, typically over particle board. It is a relatively thin finish with. Many kitchen cabinets have melamine finishes on the interior of the cabinet boxes. There are are also several decorative finishes available. Thermofoil is another term for this.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/15820774


Based on what you just related I'd vote against FG. The Sharp has no Lens Shift, and thereby the Lens cannot be set up high enough above the center/Top of the screen to avoid having the FG create an obvious Hot Spot issue.


The Sharp, used at that distance and screen size will blast any surface with 19 fl. That's plenty bright enough to utilize a fairly dark Gray. But using even a lighter Gray that can assist in making the 510's 4000:1 CR look "inkier" will provide more dependable results that should avoid any overt degree of "crush & attenuation".


The FG is far more expensive than Thrifty White Hardboard ($65-$80.00 vs $11.95) and with the latter you can effect either a simple Neutral Light Gray, using the PJ in Normal Lamp Mode, or add a reflectivity quotient to the paint and run the 510 on Economy.


The latter will also help to deepen and maintain the available Black levels of the Sharp. Here's what I suggest.


Buy some TWH. ($11.95) (Home Depot) Pick a blemish free sheet. Buy a Wagner Control Spray ($70.00) Get a quart of any "Light" neutral Gray paint formula ($12.00) and spray it directly onto the TWH over 4 successive thinly applied applications. You'll be out approx. $94.00, but you will have a light gray Screen that will ramp up your "perceived" black levels, while being able to produce very acceptable non-crushed colors and non-attenuated whites when the 510 is used in Normal Lamp mode.


If you want to go a bit further and run in Economy Mode for even better Contrast that is more akin to the Kuro, you'll want to use a 'enlightened' DIY Mixture with some degree of additional reflectivity built in. In that there are a few different choices, but whatever is considered, the close proximity of the PJ's lens means the Screen's reflectivity absolutely HAS to be non retro-reflective in nature.

I would def want the best contrast I could get. Could you direct me in the direction for the paint you are talking about? I was reading a few threads and I noticed the black widow thread....do you mean something like this? Thanks for all the help!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemu06 /forum/post/15823460


I would def want the best contrast I could get. Could you direct me in the direction for the paint you are talking about? I was reading a few threads and I noticed the black widow thread....do you mean something like this? Thanks for all the help!

anyone?
 

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I finally received a sample of the WilsonArt Designer White I requested and held it up next to my Melamine screen. They look identical in every way! The Melamine was heavy but it was easy to cut and hang and looks great. I finished my gray/color calibrations and the luminance and gamma are pretty close to being perfect. I didn't end up coating the material, just needed to setup the projector right for this screen.
 

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Fantastic thread! Thanks for sharing.


For the record, Bunnings sell 3mm sheets of 1200 x 2400 MDF with a melamine coating!

I'm told it's an identical coating to the usual 16mm chipboard product.


I'll be picking some up tonight and giving it a spin.


Having a 3mm sheet will be great.

Lighter - and bendable, so I can make the screen slightly concave for better ambient light rejection and focus uniformity.


For the clear coat, I'm going with this...
Micador Mat Spray .

* Non-yellowing

* Acryllic

* Matte

* Easy to apply

* One large can should do the sheet.



I don't want to spray inside, so hopefully I can get away with installing and bending the board after the spray has dried.....?
 

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Bugger.


That Micador spray is no good at all. The sheen and hotspotting is just as bad!

Probably should have confirmed that it was acrylic first.


Lesson learnt. I'll get another sheet (thankfully only $20), then hunt down either the Chatsworth Clear Matte Acrylic Sealer or Robertsons Clear Matte Acrylic top coat.


VERY hard to find them in Sydney shops, though. Hopefully THIS will work?
 

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you do necessarily need to spend another $20 dollars... as you could sand with a fine grit sanding sponge... and then spray the other product.


then again... it's just $20... so if time is money... then it may not be worth your time.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx /forum/post/20212999


you do necessarily need to spend another $20 dollars... as you could sand with a fine grit sanding sponge... and then spray the other product.


then again... it's just $20... so if time is money... then it may not be worth your time.

True.

That 1200x2400 panel was a biaatch to cram into a hatchback and haul up seven flights of stairs! Just a few cms larger and I couldn't have managed either!


There a few scratches in the melamine, so that's another consideration.


Mind you, I'm now seriously considering just keeping the panel and painting grey with a silver metallic and polyurethane added, after reading this...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12091634


I spose I'd need to sand first?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electric_Haggis  /t/865595/just-finished-a-white-melamine-diy-screen-lots-of-screen-caps/30#post_20198824


Fantastic thread! Thanks for sharing.



For the record, Bunnings sell 3mm sheets of 1200 x 2400 MDF with a melamine coating!


I'm told it's an identical coating to the usual 16mm chipboard product.

...
This thread is great, I'm going to do the same project.


Bunnings MDF Melamine White 3mm 2400X1200mm is only $20.90 - http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_mdf-melamine-white-3mm-2400x1200mm-710136_5536.aspx


EDIT : Bunnings link is down - here's a cached version : http://web.archive.org/web/20120602002319/http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_mdf-melamine-white-3mm-2400x1200mm-710136_5536.aspx ?


What matte paint did you go with in the end ?


I'm thinking about the DULUX Matt Clear Coat - http://www.dulux.com.au/products/dulux-interior-products/specialist/product-detail?product=2196 - as it's easy to find. Looks to be similar to MAZMAN808's "Robertson's matt clear acrylic, water based" as it's water-based, 100% acrylic etc.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomgle  /t/865595/just-finished-a-white-melamine-diy-screen-lots-of-screen-caps/30#post_22152203


This thread is great, I'm going to do the same project.

Bunnings MDF Melamine White 3mm 2400X1200mm is only $20.90 - http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_mdf-melamine-white-3mm-2400x1200mm-710136_5536.aspx

What matte paint did you go with in the end ?

I'm thinking about the DULUX Matt Clear Coat - http://www.dulux.com.au/products/dulux-interior-products/specialist/product-detail?product=2196 - as it's easy to find. Looks to be similar to MAZMAN808's "Robertson's matt clear acrylic, water based" as it's water-based, 100% acrylic etc.


Your so close, why not to step up to the next level?


Combining 50% of Dulux Light & Space Ultimate White Matt with 30% Dulux Clear Coat & 20% Filtered Water,

and going either with that as a Spray, or carefull Roll.


Add some Silver & Pearl and a smidgin of light Gold.and you have made a considerable leap forward from what you are currently invisioning.


But even with all that, it's probably more important to ask you what type of a projector do you have? And even more so, what about a few other details involving your room lighting and projector's positioning?


I'm familiar with what's available in the UK and the AU, having been to both locations in my pursuit of having a good time ( aka: making screens) and there are several fairly easy to do options available to you. But above all, you want to get it right the first time. Your project should start out being everything you hoped it will be and more.


How much more is entirely up to you. We anxiously await your every whim.
 

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I haven't chosen a projector yet, this will be my first attempt at Home Theatre


It's going in my basement, and I'll only ever use it in the evenings (ie, when it's dark) so light-control isn't a problem.

I'll keep you posted !
 
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