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Actually, worst case is that only the Spyder 4 is supported. And I wouldn't bet on the new software working with the older projectors. JVC has had autocal software before last year's models and the newer (current) software definitely didn't support the older projectors.
Yeah, maybe it's only the old software with new projectors. I was able to use an older version that only supported the Spyder 3 with my 4910. If they didn't change the api and the new software has the profiles to work with last years models then it should work.

I can only hope. I have a Spyder 4, but want my iD3 to be usable as well (as do most if not all of us).

In regards to to Spyder 4 only being supported, well that DOA and very unlikely.
 

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In the 2016 models press release, it stated that the new "autocal" software will support/can be used with "many popular and widely available color meters". However, a quote from the Cedia thread from Craig Peer specifically states Sypder 4. I think Craig was mis-informed simply because the Spyder 4 is no longer available. Worse case, the Spyder 5 is the only supported sensor for in the new software, best case...at least more sensors.

The new software "should" work with the older projectors, but you never know.
I was the one that told Craig that info, so blame me. :) I have asked for clarification.
Actually, worst case is that only the Spyder 4 is supported. And I wouldn't bet on the new software working with the older projectors. JVC has had autocal software before last year's models and the newer (current) software definitely didn't support the older projectors.
I also ask the JVC reps at CEDIA Expo which sensors were supported and was told the Spyder 4. Perhaps the JVC USA guys at the CEDIA booth didn't really know what sensors are actually supported with the new projectors and autocal software.
Yeah, maybe it's only the old software with new projectors. I was able to use an older version that only supported the Spyder 3 with my 4910. If they didn't change the api and the new software has the profiles to work with last years models then it should work.

I can only hope. I have a Spyder 4, but want my iD3 to be usable as well (as do most if not all of us).

In regards to to Spyder 4 only being supported, well that DOA and very unlikely.
Hi everyone,

The official word from JVC Japan through JVC UK as of a few weeks ago is still that only the Spyder 4 (Pro or Elite) is supported in the new software for the new models.

They are looking into other options as they are aware that the Spyder 4 is discontinued, but my guess is that at launch it will be the only meter supported, with possibly other models being added afterwards. I'm sure their priority is to finalize the f/w for the new units, adding new meters to the autocal software likely has a lower priority. Although I don't own either, I've suggested the i1d3 as well as the Spyder5, as the i1d3 is a very popular meter (and more accurate with better unit to unit consistency than the spyders, while only a bit more expensive).

I have no idea if the new software will also work on the older models. I would not bank on it, but it's a possibility so no reason to rule it out.

I'll update this thread as soon as I get an official answer to the other questions I've asked if they are not answered before.
 

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What is the typical street price for the Spyder or other similar meters which are likely to be supported at some point? Are firmware upgrades for projectors typical (assuming that this will be the case here)?
 

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Less than $200. Need to wait to confirm that Spyder 5 meter will work.
Ok. I'll be interested in the results, so I'll tune in here to see what the experts here are finding. I'm not a videophile, so I might be better off springing for a traveling pro.
 

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Ok. I'll be interested in the results, so I'll tune in here to see what the experts here are finding. I'm not a videophile, so I might be better off springing for a traveling pro.
I just got a call back from JVC relating to autocal.
I was told that autocal will support various meters.
They are working on putting together a list of meters to be supported (could not share which ones), which will be posted on their site by the time the new projectors start shipping.
 

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I just got a call back from JVC relating to autocal.
I was told that autocal will support various meters.
They are working on putting together a list of meters to be supported (could not share which ones), which will be posted on their site by the time the new projectors start shipping.
Nice! Thanks much for this info
 

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Hello,

thanks @All for this very helpful thread and especially Manni01for the guide on page seven. I still have two questions you may can help me:

1. Do I have to reset all the manual calibration settings before the autocal? Are the sliders, nuber text fields for those manual settings are still active after the auto cal?
2. It is said in the guide, that I have to run the autocal for each iris setting. What about if I want to run the autoIris feature (Auto1 or 2)? Is the autocal applied to this iris setting too?

I tried to get those answers with the search but wasn´t successfull. Thanks in Advance,

Sera
 

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Hello,

thanks @All for this very helpful thread and especially Manni01for the guide on page seven. I still have two questions you may can help me:

1. Do I have to reset all the manual calibration settings before the autocal? Are the sliders, nuber text fields for those manual settings are still active after the auto cal?
2. It is said in the guide, that I have to run the autocal for each iris setting. What about if I want to run the autoIris feature (Auto1 or 2)? Is the autocal applied to this iris setting too?

I tried to get those answers with the search but wasn´t successfull. Thanks in Advance,

Sera

Hi Sera,


1. You don't have to reset settings like which gamma preset or which color temp, but it is better to not use any CMS, gamma or color temp correction (so reset those) before running the autocal. That way you know that you are only fine-tuning if you change these afterwards. My understanding is that they are not taken into account during the autocal, but as they are not reset either, they are still applied afterwards if you leave them. So keep them if they are always the same. For example, to turn a 2.4 preset into a BT1886 curve, I only have to lower the dark gamma control by one or 2 clicks, and that's always the case. So I keep these. However, I never use the CMS and I always reset the color temp to zero before the autocal, so that I start from scratch when I set 100% white afterwards using my calibration software and more reliable/accurate meters than the Spyder4 pro, prior to minor other adjustments and a 3D LUT calibration.


2) You only have to run the autocal for each range of the manual iris, not each setting, so that's 4 different runs (I use 0, -5, -10, -15 because it's easy to remember, but Harry has given the actual ranges). This has to be done with the manual iris (the Autocal doesn't work with the auto iris). Then you can apply Auto1 or Auto2, it works fine. Note that you have to do this for each CMD setting (if you use CMD). The other approach is to simply do it once for the iris settings you are going to use until the next calibration, and do that again when you recalibrate. For example, I use -15 for movies no CMD and -7 with CMD low for TV/Sport. I could only do these two and be done until I need to open the iris as the bulb dims, and then simply do these two settings only. It's only needed to do all 4 ranges in all CMD modes if you want to be able to change iris/CMD settings freely and not see a massive drop in greyscale accuracy when you leave the range/mode it was calibrated for.


Hope this helps!
 

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Hi,

thank you very much. I think i am now ready to go for it. The X500 was bought calibrated, the bulb is now ~350 hours old.

Sera
 

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As I understand, after the autocal you do a normal manual calibration process for fine tuning? Is this overal necessary for the last % to perfection or can I just "press autocal" and it is done?
 

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As I understand, after the autocal you do a normal manual calibration process for fine tuning? Is this overal necessary for the last % to perfection or can I just "press autocal" and it is done?

I only set 100% white to D65 with the gains using more accurate meters in preparation for a 3D LUT, and I create a BT-1886 curve as described from the 2.4 or 2.5 preset.


It depends on each unit (both the projector and the meter) but it should only be necessary if like me you suffer from an OCD with such things. For most the Autocal would take you 95% there.
 

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So what's the best way to check out/profile a meter? I picked up a used Spyder of Amazon (so I can return it), but I want to see if it's decent or not.

The other question I have is, how are you guys measuring 0 IRE? When I measure off screen my i1D3 reports 0, which is bogus, but when I turned it around and pointed it at the projector the white balance measured off the charts wrong.
 

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Manni, I believe Mike mentioned in another thread that JVC said the Spyder 5 would be supported.

I want to pick one up now before the projector gets here. I see on Amazon there is an Express (inexpensive at only $129US) Elite, Pro, etc. Is either package relevant for the use with JVC software or are those just different software bundles they include for profiling monitors, etc? From what I can see the meter is the same between the 3 packages.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL2TO/
 

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Manni, I believe Mike mentioned in another thread that JVC said the Spyder 5 would be supported. OEM SKUs should work (provided you do get the software which is needed only to install the drivers - but JVC only support retail meters officially.

I want to pick one up now before the projector gets here. I see on Amazon there is an Express (inexpensive at only $129US) Elite, Pro, etc. Is either package relevant for the use with JVC software or are those just different software bundles they include for profiling monitors, etc? From what I can see the meter is the same between the 3 packages.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL2TO/

Hi Jason,

If it's the same as the current models with the Spyder 4, the Express is not supported, only the Pro and Elite. By the way, unless it changed for the 5, the meters are NOT the same with the 4 (different colour), so don't trust the pictures.

The Elite is a waste of money as it doesn't give any guarantee of being more accurate (the Elite I tested was worse than my Pro) and the software bundle - the only difference as far as I can see - isn't used.

So provided it's the same as with current models, I'd go for the Pro. Make sure you buy it from Amazon or a retailer that will replace it if necessary, as they can be quite off, there is a strong unit to unit variation with these meters, at least with the 4.

So first thing you do, check the accuracy of the Spyder 5 with Calman/Chromapure, and ask for a replacement if it measures too far from your reference meter (I checked my Pro 4 against my Discus trained to my i1pro2, and luckily it is very, very close, which wasn't the case of the Elite).

The new JVC Autocal software (for the 2015-2016 models) isn't available for download yet AFAIK.

It should appear here soon (hopefully!): http://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/index.html
 

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So first thing you do, check the accuracy of the Spyder 5 with Calman/Chromapure, and ask for a replacement if it measures too far from your reference meter (I checked my Pro 4 against my Discus trained to my i1pro2, and luckily it is very, very close, which wasn't the case of the Elite).
For those of us with no experience using meters for calibrations can you elaborate on this step at all?
 

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I only own an i1D3 meter.

So, if I don't use the JVC autocal at all and continue to calibrate the traditional way using Chromapure and the i1D3, am I losing anything in the calibration once completed that I would get if I also used a Spyder and JVC autocal?
 

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For those of us with no experience using meters for calibrations can you elaborate on this step at all?
This means using another software supporting more accurate/reliable meters, preferably a good colorimeter trained to a spectrometer, like I do with my Discus trained to an i1pro2, ideally a reference meter (for example a Klein K10a trained to a Jeti or similar). At the very least, it should be something like an i1 display Pro (i1d3) which is fairly accurate/reliable. You then compare the way the Spyder measure against this known good reference. This shows if the Spyder is accurate on its own or not, which is important as this is the way it will be used with the JVC Autocal software.

It's better to get a relatively accurate Spyder as it makes things easier, although there is another parameter which is the screen, but let's leave this aside for now. The way the autocal works is you calibrate from the lens, and then you tell the PJ what your screen is so that the variations from the screen can be taken into account.

For gamut measurements, if you know exactly how much the Spyder is off and in which direction, you can create a custom profile for the gamut taking these inaccuracies into account, but that's quite advanced and it doesn't work for greyscale/gamma, only for gamut calibration.

So it's much better and easier, if you can and have the software/hardware, to check the Spyder 4/5 for accuracy until you get a good one.

If you only plan to use the Spyder 4/5 with the JVC Autocal software, don't worry about all this. The software will still get you at least 85% there, even if the Spyder isn't super accurate. As long as it's not defective, it should get you excellent results, especially regarding the gamma droop correction which is the main benefit of the JVC Autocal software, along with getting a linear gamut.
 

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I only own an i1D3 meter.

So, if I don't use the JVC autocal at all and continue to calibrate the traditional way using Chromapure and the i1D3, am I losing anything in the calibration once completed that I would get if I also used a Spyder and JVC autocal?
If you're using CP with an i1d3 and the CMS in the JVC, you are likely creating a poor calibration as the CMS controls are not fully working. You need to calibrate to a wider gamut than the standard and find the best balance between saturation levels, otherwise you get an undersaturated calibration. Depending on the model, getting a good gamma calibration can also be a challenge, and it's always time-consuming. The 12 or 33 step gamma auto-calibration offered by the JVC Autocal is a time-saver and produces great results.

If you use CP and the i1d3 along with a good external 3D LUT holder, like an eecolor or a Radiance, then you are not missing much as long as the gamma droop is not so bad that it causes artifacts when the Radiance tries to correct it.

A great benefit of the JVC Autocal is when you have to use the JVC without an external correction. For example, I use MadVR for all critical content (bluray etc) from my HTPC, which leaves all my other sources uncorrected. So getting a very accurate baseline with the JVC Autocal means that my other sources (bluray, HDTV, etc) are very accurate too.

It will become even more important with UHD sources, as unless you invest in an external VP with 4K inputs and HDCP 2.2 compliance, you won't be able to get any correction. This means that all current Radiance models for example won't work with UHD Bluray. You will need a Radiance Pro for that, which is a substantial investment.

So until 3D LUT holders for 3D content become available at more accessible price, the JVC Autocal should be a good way to get a decent calibration for UHD Bluray, as the new version of the software should allow to create presets for HD/rec-709/SDR as well as UHD/P3/HDR, at least for the two higher models.
 

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If you're using CP with an i1d3 and the CMS in the JVC, you are likely creating a poor calibration as the CMS controls are not fully working. You need to calibrate to a wider gamut than the standard and find the best balance between saturation levels, otherwise you get an undersaturated calibration. Depending on the model, getting a good gamma calibration can also be a challenge, and it's always time-consuming. The 12 or 33 step gamma auto-calibration offered by the JVC Autocal is a time-saver and produces great results.

If you use CP and the i1d3 along with a good external 3D LUT holder, like an eecolor or a Radiance, then you are not missing much as long as the gamma droop is not so bad that it causes artifacts when the Radiance tries to correct it.

A great benefit of the JVC Autocal is when you have to use the JVC without an external correction. For example, I use MadVR for all critical content (bluray etc) from my HTPC, which leaves all my other sources uncorrected. So getting a very accurate baseline with the JVC Autocal means that my other sources (bluray, HDTV, etc) are very accurate too.

It will become even more important with UHD sources, as unless you invest in an external VP with 4K inputs and HDCP 2.2 compliance, you won't be able to get any correction. This means that all current Radiance models for example won't work with UHD Bluray. You will need a Radiance Pro for that, which is a substantial investment.

So until 3D LUT holders for 3D content become available at more accessible price, the JVC Autocal should be a good way to get a decent calibration for UHD Bluray, as the new version of the software should allow to create presets for HD/rec-709/SDR as well as UHD/P3/HDR, at least for the two higher models.
Ok, I don't understand what half those acronyms mean.

So am I better off calibrating with the i1D3 and Chromapure the traditional way or should I return my i1D3 (still in warranty period) and pick up a Spyder 5 for use with the JVC autocal on the my forthcoming JVC X750R?
 
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