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Hi guys,
Just saw the video Youthman put on youtube where Nick is showing how to use auto cal to get great results. I'd like to buy SpiderX Pro as Nick pointed out at the end of video. I have JVC RS 500. Can someone please inform if Spirder X is compatible with JVC RS 500 and if RS500 has Auto Cal feature?
 

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There’s a dedicated thread on Autocal for the RS500:
 

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There’s a dedicated thread on Autocal for the RS500:
Thanks for the link.
 

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I have started a new thread to discuss the ArgyllCMS DLL which allows many additional meters to be used with Autocal:
 

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The saving of Gamma calibration is quite slow with my X7900 and PC on WiFi. It took about 30 minutes to reach 66%, then a message about connection cut off was displayed. During saving the AutoCal creates a backup file of current calibration.

If I use this file for restore function will it take as long as saving during calibration or perhaps it will take much longer (maybe because more settings need to be saved during restore than during autocal)? What would you suggest: redo calibration or restore the calibrated backup?

Also would a direct connection between PC and projector via cable be faster?
 

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It’s normal for the gamma calibration to take a while to save. To run Autocal the projector needs to be connected to a signal source, even though the patterns are generated internally. Make sure your signal source does not go into sleep mode during calibration, saving, and restoring.
And yes, restoring the Init file takes even longer, around 45 min. Typically wi-if is not the bottleneck.
 

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Thanks, Dominic.
I meant the backup-file of calibration (not the init-file), which is also created at the beginning of saving process. I could use that file with the restore function to save the results of the last calibration into the projector. In that case I don’t need to setup the sensor again and go through the measurements.

However my concern is if the restore function may take longer than the full gamma calibration.
 

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Hi Dominic.. Here are my new results i think these are better? Wanted to point out we tried for over an hour to get the sensor to fall within the orange box. I even brought the wife in to help after an hour but nothing.. It just doesn't move and this time i had it facing the screen correctly.. Now, if I turn the sensor towards the projector then I can get it to move to inside the box easily.. Anyhow I faced the sensor towards the screen 11 maybe 12 inches away and pointed the sensor up towards the middle. We decided to take the reading without the sensor being inside the box to see what happens and below are the results.

Of notice the best I can do is when i point the sensor up towards the middle of the screen if I point the sensor up or down sometimes it moves fractions towards or away from the orange box.. But that's about as much as it move..

I'm on a JVC 640 using i1 display pro..
 

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Hi Dominic.. Here are my new results i think these are better? Wanted to point out we tried for over an hour to get the sensor to fall within the orange box. I even brought the wife in to help after an hour but nothing.. It just doesn't move and this time i had it facing the screen correctly.. Now, if I turn the sensor towards the projector then I can get it to move to inside the box easily.. Anyhow I faced the sensor towards the screen 11 maybe 12 inches away and pointed the sensor up towards the middle. We decided to take the reading without the sensor being inside the box to see what happens and below are the results.

Of notice the best I can do is when i point the sensor up towards the middle of the screen if I point the sensor up or down sometimes it moves fractions towards or away from the orange box.. But that's about as much as it move..

I'm on a JVC 640 using i1 display pro..
It appears that the previous bad calibration (with the i1D3 facing the lens without the diffuser) was actually saved in the projector!
These new results look good. Note, however, this is still the wrong thread. It should be
 

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It appears that the previous bad calibration (with the i1D3 facing the lens without the diffuser) was actually saved in the projector!
These new results look good. Note, however, this is still the wrong thread. It should be
Yes finally thank you. I will do the rest of the picture modes and post them on that thread. Thanks again for answering all my questions.


To do high lamp all I need to do is switch to high lamp?

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
 

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Yes finally thank you. I will do the rest of the picture modes and post them on that thread. Thanks again for answering all my questions.


To do high lamp all I need to do is switch to high lamp?

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk
Some modes share the same calibration data, so you have to make sure not to overwrite a previous calibration. When in doubt run in Log Only mode; if it show a straight line for gamma and the correct colour temperature (6400-6600) then it’s already calibrated.
 

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Here is my report using i1DisplayProPlus with Autocal and modded SpyderX dll:
I managed to get very good results (imho) using SpyderX for gamma and i1DisplayProPlus mod for color after some hickups trying to find proper placement to i1DisplayPro meter and when I forgot to disable screen correction. In i1DisplayPro manual there is a guide to place meter as close as possible to screen and I placed it closer than 30cm which Autocal advises. This resulted too much red. Then I placed meter at 30cm and result was much better. I used burst mode which included delay around 1.55 s.
I used this workflow: first gamma (quality) with SpyderX for SDR, aperture 0 (ref.point), then -6 (in use), both with gamma 2.2, low lamp. Then color with i1DisplayPro for SDR, low lamp, aperture 0 and -6, after which color for HDR, low lamp, aperture 0. Inbetween these calibrations Log to check that results are consistent. So, two gamma calibrations, three color calibrations.
After these I had to calibrate gamma (aperture -6, Quality) again with SpyderX because there was some minor gamma drift after color calibrations.
I also noticed that it is better to do color calibration twice in series and save result into JVC after second one. Color temperature (white and grey) was closer to D65 this way according to Autocal, don't ask why.
Good test films with HDR are Bladerunner 2049 with low maxCLL/FALL (TO High), Aquaman with high maxCLL/FALL (TO low) and Passengers with SDR. I used also S&M UHD HDR Benchmark disk but mostly only demo video.
And remember to set TO with proper screen settings after HDR calibrations. I noticed TO will calculate corrections again. Hopefully my report is useful to someone.
 

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I used this workflow: first gamma (quality) with SpyderX for SDR, aperture 0 (ref.point), then -6 (in use), both with gamma 2.2, low lamp.
If you run gamma calibration with only aperture change, the second calibration will overwrite the first.
Also, the i1Display Pro Plus is a better meter than the SpyderX, so it can be used for both gamma and colour.
 

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If you run gamma calibration with only aperture change, the second calibration will overwrite the first.
Also, the i1Display Pro Plus is a better meter than the SpyderX, so it can be used for both gamma and colour.
Thanks Dominic,
I know second run of gamma will overwrite the first one but just wanted to see if there is any inconsistency in SpyderX measurements.
I could try to use i1DisplayPro also for gamma and compare result with SpyderX, just for curiosity. Anyhow, picture quality is already very good although lamp has almost 1400 hours (low setting). This tinkering is becoming a real hobby to me, or just a bad habit....🙂.
Next perhaps learn to use HCFR...this pandemic forces me to stay more at home and I need something else to do than just watch movies all day. Which calibration software is recommended to use with my meters? Howabout Chromapure or DisplayCal?
 

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Thanks Dominic,
I know second run of gamma will overwrite the first one but just wanted to see if there is any inconsistency in SpyderX measurements.
I could try to use i1DisplayPro also for gamma and compare result with SpyderX, just for curiosity. Anyhow, picture quality is already very good although lamp has almost 1400 hours (low setting). This tinkering is becoming a real hobby to me, or just a bad habit....🙂.
Next perhaps learn to use HCFR...this pandemic forces me to stay more at home and I need something else to do than just watch movies all day. Which calibration software is recommended to use with my meters? Howabout Chromapure or DisplayCal?
I haven’t used ChromaPure. HCFR does most of the things I need. DisplayCAL is for somewhat different applications.
 
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