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So I need a disk (bluray ) playing in a machine?
Did not see that in any of my readings
As long as the player is connected and turned on you’re ok for autocal. It doesn’t need to be playing a disc.
 

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Thanks,
that helps.
Is the INIT file generated after you run auto cal?
dan
Yes, Autocal makes/save it the first time you run it. Make sure you save it as it's the only way to get the projector back to it's factory state/calibration.

So I need a disk (bluray ) playing in a machine?
Did not see that in any of my readings
Any signal, PC, Blu-ray player menu, Roku, whatever, anything but a "NO SIGNAL"

Does the auto cal also calibrate contrast and brightness, or do I have to do that at some point
dan
It does not, but with well-behaved sources, they should be very close to 0 when you do set them.

I just want to add that even with these instructions, the process is still confusing due to the way the software interacts with the projector and the meter. The software has you set up the meter's position first and then takes you into settings that you can adjust that will cause havoc with the meters position (like iris and lamp). So, I recommend setting those controls BEFORE you get past the positioning window on your way to the settings adjustment.
I don't remember that, I wonder if that changed in the newer versions?

I was using my geared tripod head that allows for very precise adjustments and found that a change in any x/y/z position of the meter could yield different results. If the meter is overloaded with photons (too close), the auto calibration goes haywire. If the meter is undersaturated (too far back), the auto calibration gives bad results especially at the low end. Angle to the lens (pitch especially) and height are just as important as distance front to back.

Speaking of the results, be sure to review over them before you save. If you are making settings adjustments to things like iris or lamp, after a few successful runs at other settings - you will most likely notice the results way off if you haven't repositioned the Spyder.

So, when you get garbage results - don't save and then reposition your meter and try again.

I'm quite happy with the auto cal results I got from the Spyder from a 2K source upconverted to 4K with low lamp and the iris closed. The UHD HDR results I "think" are good; but, since projected HDR is all about compromise - I'm going to have a pro stop by and check to see if there is a better compromise that can be had for my projector/screen/room combination.

I would be curious to run the auto cal with the i1Pro 2 just to see if it's an improvement over the Spyder.
There are definitely some "wrinkles" to deal with, but the overall process is not nearly as complicated as the writeup makes it sound. I know I was very intimidated going through that the first time. But once you do it, it "clicks" and you realize the process itself is pretty simple, it's just a matter of being diligent and making sure all your i's are dotted and t's crossed when you do it.
 

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I don't remember that, I wonder if that changed in the newer versions?
In that step the AutoCal software displays the current projector settings and allows you to change them, but it's best to select the projector settings before you get into AutoCal.
I believe it's the same behaviour in all versions.
 

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Yes, Autocal makes/save it the first time you run it. Make sure you save it as it's the only way to get the projector back to it's factory state/calibration.



Any signal, PC, Blu-ray player menu, Roku, whatever, anything but a "NO SIGNAL"



It does not, but with well-behaved sources, they should be very close to 0 when you do set them.



I don't remember that, I wonder if that changed in the newer versions?



There are definitely some "wrinkles" to deal with, but the overall process is not nearly as complicated as the writeup makes it sound. I know I was very intimidated going through that the first time. But once you do it, it "clicks" and you realize the process itself is pretty simple, it's just a matter of being diligent and making sure all your i's are dotted and t's crossed when you do it.
thanks,
thanks, and thanks
dan
 
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I've run JVC autocal twice now with gamma only and gamma+color and each time the result is a "-" in the Gamma result. What am I doing wrong?

Gamma was set to Normal for the autocal.


Also, side question:

Should I do a gamma only calibration with the iris wide open so the sensor gets the maximum amount of light? And then just do color only calibrations for the various iris positions I want?
 

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Should I do a gamma only calibration with the iris wide open so the sensor gets the maximum amount of light? And then just do color only calibrations for the various iris positions I want?
Iris wide open does not give more light to the sensor, as you will re-adjust the sensor position, thus offsetting the effect of the iris.
If anything, my theory is that using a lower gamma will bring more light to the sensor in the low end.
 

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Iris wide open does not give more light to the sensor, as you will re-adjust the sensor position, thus offsetting the effect of the iris.
If anything, my theory is that using a lower gamma will bring more light to the sensor in the low end.
Makes sense. So how does one go about "lowering the gamma" so as to bring more light to the sensor?

I thought I was to choose gamma=normal setting for the gamma calibrations using the JVC autocal?
 

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I've run JVC autocal twice now with gamma only and gamma+color and each time the result is a "-" in the Gamma result. What am I doing wrong?

Gamma was set to Normal for the autocal.


Also, side question:

Should I do a gamma only calibration with the iris wide open so the sensor gets the maximum amount of light? And then just do color only calibrations for the various iris positions I want?
Anyone able to answer my question about getting the "-" in the gamma after autocal?
 

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White temp question

Hey folks, only trying to calibrate one mode: HDR high lamp bt2020, iris 0...a couple things

1) I can just barely get the Spyder inside the orange rectangle (closest side of the rectangle to the screen)...I tried moving the tripod forward/backwRd bit not much change...any suggestions?

2) white color temp ends up being 5933...shouldn’t it be closer to 6500?

3) I haven’t saved any results? After I save, is that when the init file is created and I need to save it somewhere else? I didn’t see an it file where it says it should be...I’m assuming it’s created when u save the new settings?

4) when I do save, are all the color adjustments modified on screen so as not to be 0 when I pull the color menu up?

Thanks folks
 

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Hey folks, only trying to calibrate one mode: HDR high lamp bt2020, iris 0...a couple things

1) I can just barely get the Spyder inside the orange rectangle (closest side of the rectangle to the screen)...I tried moving the tripod forward/backwRd bit not much change...any suggestions?
You may have the Spyer facing the wrong way. The concave side should face the projector lens.

4) when I do save, are all the color adjustments modified on screen so as not to be 0 when I pull the color menu up?
The onscreen settings are essentially ignored when you run autocal.
 

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You have have the Spyer facing the wrong way. The concave side should face the projector lens.



The onscreen settings are essentially ignored when you run autocal.
Thanks, the side facing the pj is the side I removed the plastic cap//cover from, correct? The side with the Spyder logo is facing the screen...
 

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Thanks, the side facing the pj is the side I removed the plastic cap//cover from, correct? The side with the Spyder logo is facing the screen...
Yes. My previous description of "concave side" applies to the Spyder 4. With Spyder 5 indeed the covered side should face the projector. Given that, it may not be likely that you've oriented the sensor the wrong way, but that's the only explanation I can think of that would result in the brightness not responding to the meter position.

Also make sure the shadow the meter casts on the screen is centered on the screen.
 

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Yes. My previous description of "concave side" applies to the Spyder 4. With Spyder 5 indeed the covered side should face the projector. Given that, it may not be likely that you've oriented the sensor the wrong way, but that's the only explanation I can think of that would result in the brightness not responding to the meter position.

Also make sure the shadow the meter casts on the screen is centered on the screen.

i ended up moving the Spyder about 3-4 ft in front of pj and 9-10 ft from screen...that position shows the spyder in the far right of the rectangle ( I thought I read the far right is where it's preferred to be)...White is now 5954, Greyscale 6033...calibration HDR BT2020, high lamp, 0 iris...still have not saved...
 

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White temp and grey scale question (again)

Hi folks...ran Autocal for hdr bt2020, iris 0, high lamp...white temp ended up at 5954 and grey scale 6033...shouldn’t these be closer to 6500? What’s the implication of these lower values? I did not save the Autocal yet...thanks folks
 

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Hi folks...ran Autocal for hdr bt2020, iris 0, high lamp...white temp ended up at 5954 and grey scale 6033...shouldn’t these be closer to 6500? What’s the implication of these lower values? I did not save the Autocal yet...thanks folks
Answered my own question...turned off screen adjust as I had a screen number entered on the pj...white now 6421, gray now 6528 :)
 

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Could someone please interpret these for me?

Hi Folks...Color profile was set to bt2020, gamma Normal, high lamp, iris 0, CMD off... I saved these as the new config and then imported my custom curve...it looks great, with more color saturation...

As an example, in the first pic is the straight line the new gamma? If it is what does it say about the blue line?

In the 2nd pic, is the light triangle, the new calibration? What is it telling me?

Also in general, what do the new color values tell me?

Edit:sorry about the pics...on my iPad, can not rotate for some reason...
 

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Hi Folks...Color profile was set to bt2020, gamma Normal, high lamp, iris 0, CMD off... I saved these as the new config and then imported my custom curve...it looks great, with more color saturation...

As an example, in the first pic is the straight line the new gamma? If it is what does it say about the blue line?
As explained in the Instructions:
Gamma
Calibration results are shown in a white line.
The state before calibration is performed is shown in a blue line. The green line represents Gamma 2.2
 

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As explained in the Instructions:
Thanks, I didn’t note before the white line is overlaid on the green line, Correct? Are you able to tell me if the blue line showed any kind of gamma droop or why is the white line “better”?
 

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Thanks, I didn’t note before the white line is overlaid on the green line, Correct? Are you able to tell me if the blue line showed any kind of gamma droop or why is the white line “better”?
The white line is better since it overlaps with the green line, which represents gamma 2.2 (the target value for the calibration).
 
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