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aka jfinnie
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I would try using a Spyder 5 facing the PJ for gamma and the i1pro2 for color, provided they don't provide widely different results (i.e. they are not too far off each other). You need to split the two steps, but you would get the best of both. Get the Spyder 5 Express, it's very cheap and there is no need to buy any of the higher models. Just make sure you check the calibration with the Discus trained to the i1pro2 afterwards. I tested 3 or 4 Spyder 5 and I sent them all back, they were widely inaccurate, some of them incurring a drop of 15% brightness after the autocal.

You're supposed to get the i1pro2 facing the screen with the JVC Autocal, but I haven't done any tests as it's not supported in the V6//V7 for our models.

Looking forward to reading your comments.

Also glad to see you got a Discus and an i1pro2 combo. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do :)
Thanks for the info. I will post about how I get on when I have the PJ (dedicated room I guess won't be done until some time in Feb/March).

The Discus is a nice meter, lovely build with great low light, but it is much worse than an i1d3 without being profiled - I don't think yours was particularly bad; I reckon they are all like that judging by comments I received from another ex-Discus user. It seems it probably just isn't a very good match for the "standard observer" which I guess is why they have to have so many different profiles for only slightly different monitors.

Still glad I got it though, nothing can match it for low light until you spend 7 or 8 times the amount - so it "is what it is" I guess.
 

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Thanks for the info. I will post about how I get on when I have the PJ (dedicated room I guess won't be done until some time in Feb/March).

The Discus is a nice meter, lovely build with great low light, but it is much worse than an i1d3 without being profiled - I don't think yours was particularly bad; I reckon they are all like that judging by comments I received from another ex-Discus user. It seems it probably just isn't a very good match for the "standard observer" which I guess is why they have to have so many different profiles for only slightly different monitors.

Still glad I got it though, nothing can match it for low light until you spend 7 or 8 times the amount - so it "is what it is" I guess.
Did you update it to the latest f/w? I sent to BasiCColor profiles for LCOS and they have integrated them. These are not perfect, but they are far better than without. I gave them SDR, HDR, Wide Gamut and 3D.

As I told you when you were asking questions about it, you do need to profile it, but it is indeed the next best thing to a Klein K10a for a fraction of the price.
 

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aka jfinnie
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Did you update it to the latest f/w? I sent to BasiCColor profiles for LCOS and they have integrated them. These are not perfect, but they are far better than without. I gave them SDR, HDR, Wide Gamut and 3D.

As I told you when you were asking questions about it, you do need to profile it, but it is indeed the next best thing to a Klein K10a for a fraction of the price.
It was on latest FW but I did download your tables to it. I saw them and assumed they came from you. They're a little better but still pretty far out for my X30. It isn't a big deal as I have the i1pro2 and I expected to have to use it. Once profiled it works great.

I didn't find the CCFL tables to be much better either when profiling my old Sony TV, so I really think that for people buying these meter without spectro they really need to make sure their monitor is specifically catered for. As I say a non-issue for me.
 

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It was on latest FW but I did download your tables to it. I saw them and assumed they came from you. They're a little better but still pretty far out for my X30. It isn't a big deal as I have the i1pro2 and I expected to have to use it. Once profiled it works great.

I didn't find the CCFL tables to be much better either when profiling my old Sony TV, so I really think that for people buying these meter without spectro they really need to make sure their monitor is specifically catered for. As I say a non-issue for me.
Apparently, if you read the reviews the Discus is very accurate for some displays (mostly monitors), but I never experienced this. Of course the LCOS tables I sent work well for me, but I have an X7000. They are not as good as my original profiles though, not sure why.

In any case, I wouldn't recommend the Discus as a sole meter, but profiled to a Spectro I find it unbeatable fro the price.
 

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JVC V5 autocalibrate with RS57(X700) help!

Hoping I can get some help/advice regarding JVC autocal on my RS57(X700).

I know this is a V6 thread for later models than mine, but I could not find a V5 specific thread and it appears the Cal SW functions much the same?

I've read as much as I could on threads like this and the other JVC calibration thread (generic JVC 'autocal' thread, but not specific the the X700/500 models, as there's no JVC autocal thread specific to them that I could find), but could not find a solution.

Short story is that I got to the point where the JVC calibration SW (V5) connects to my RS57 via Ethernet/LAN cable to my AT&T uverse combo wifi modem/router using Ethernet port 2 (there's 4 ports but just port 1 is used to desktop PC), that router/modem hardware connects to my win7 desktop PC via ethernet cable.
In the JVC calibration SW 'Setting' screen I can click 'Check' button and it would come back 'Connect OK'. Then on the Sensor screens I could connect to the Spyder4 Pro sensor and adjust the sensor position within the box (towards the PJ side of course), click 'OK'. That's where the issue starts. Normally it then goes to the Picture Mode screen, which it does, but the 'Loading' hourglass goes on for at least 5-10 mins, and in the end (after the 'Loading' goes away), I'm left a blank Picture Mode screen (w/o any of the PJ modes loaded)> See attached pic.

I've tried rebooting my desktop PC (windows 7), rebooting the PJ, rebooting the Calibration SW, but it keeps getting stuck at the point of loading the Picture Mode defaults.

I've followed all of these recommendations (I deleted parts from this quote that weren't relevant for me)>>>

Hi everyone,

I had to rerun the JVC Autrocal after 650 hours and I thought I'd update my findings in one post:

- Preparation:
2) After you've installed the Datacolor software to get the drivers for the Spyder meter, make sure the Datacolor utility isn't loaded in memory, it interacts with the JVC software. You only need to install the Datacolor software for the drivers. You don't even need to activate the software. Also make sure you don't have any IP remote running on an iPhone/iPad/android like iRule, as it will interfere too. Make sure for example that iRule isn't loaded in any of the devices connected to the network.
3) Make sure that the environment settings in the JVC menus are disabled. The JVC Autocal doesn't work if they are enabled.
4) Once the JVC software is running, especially once you've entered the calibration section, only use the software to control the PJ. If you use the remote, the changes you make with the remote won't be taken into account by the software which will lead to issues.

- Meter:
1) Unless you only want to autocal one user mode with specific settings, I suggest you set the iris fully open in the JVC and when positioning the driver, make sure that you put it as close to the PJ as possible, without getting outside of the "safety rectangle" shown by the software before calibration.
I have 1080p running into the RS57 (via oppo playing 'Lucy' bluray), as mentioned the PJ needs 1080 inputed during Cal.
When I connect the Spyder4pro USB, the small spyder icon shows up in my PC toolbar---I rightclick and 'quit' that app. (as it was mentioned no spyder sw should be running).

Now the somewhat longer more detailed line of events>>
I had issues connected via Ethernet for a bit. The JVC Cal manual is confusing IMO. It wasn't clear on the exact procedures. As mentioned in AVS threads, it's recommended to connect via LAN through a router than direct to PC, which I did. It seemed that Cal Manual was saying I could have just set “DHCP Client” to “On”, in the RS57 network menu and it would auto find the IP and connect (after the "Check the boxes for “Obtain an IP address automatically” and “Obtain DNS server address automatically”---which on my windows 7 were already set that way). Just could not connect that way even after booting PC and PJ, etc. RS57 network menu would say 'could not find IP addy' after trying to set that. CAL SW would get the 'Connect NG' when checking connection.

I ended up setting it up manually in my PC using the exact numbers in the JVC cal manual (see attached pic) and the end result is I could now 'Connect OK' in the Cal SW settings page. I think this is what is done if direct PJ to PC connection, but it worked for my router set up.
It seemed that doing that knocked my PC off the internet (had to go back to auto DHCP to get internet back after I gave up on the Calbration SW). Do I need to have an internet connection to run the CAL SW?

Since I could 'Connect OK' in the CAL sw, and the spyder4pro would connect (I could adjust it within the rectangular 'box'), I assume that everything is communicating. I then read this, which is cine4home google translate on their review of the Cal Sw>

https://translate.google.com/transl...rierung/JVC_X-Serie_Autokalibrierung_X500.htm

"Also mandatory is a Windows PC on which the auto-calibration software is installed. The PC is connected via HDMI to the projector as an image generator, the communication takes place via network.

Then it starts: First, the software determines the current "actual state" by sensor. All required test images are automatically downloaded from the PC so that the user can comfortably travel and watch. Problems with the PC as a signal generator do not arise, because digital players such as Bluray Player are not subject to any standard distribution."

Maybe something is lost in google translation, but I never read anything about the PC being connected via HDMI? Only that the JVC needs a 1080 signal of any sort (like a movie) on it's input, probably for the refresh rate.
And I don't know how the PJ gets it's Calibration images (for the spyder to measure) ---either in the PJ's memory or it gets transmitted from the JVC Cal sw over the ethernet cable?

The only other thing I thought about> I have a darbee and I didn't disable it, didn't think it would be necessary, but I could disable it on the next try.

So I'm stumped for now. I still have everything hooked up, hoping I'd get some suggestions here for another try tonight :)

Oh, I almost forget> During my first 'try' at CAL (after everything was communicating), I believe I got to the Picture Mode screen in the CAL SW with all the boxes loaded (as opposed to blank as in the attached pic), but I had forgot to set my gamma at 'quality' in the settings menu, so I got out of the Picture mode, set gamma to quality in settings, but from that point on the Picture Mode never loaded with it's defults.

So it SEEMED like it worked once! But not after I changed the gamma to 'quality' in the settings menu!

Maybe I should delete the V5 sw and reinstall it? Or any other suggestions?

Please Help!
 

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I ended up setting it up manually in my PC using the exact numbers in the JVC cal manual (see attached pic) and the end result is I could now 'Connect OK' in the Cal SW settings page. I think this is what is done if direct PJ to PC connection, but it worked for my router set up.
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I wouldn't do that, even if it passes the "Check". Can you not use a direct connection?

It seemed that doing that knocked my PC off the internet (had to go back to auto DHCP to get internet back after I gave up on the Calbration SW). Do I need to have an internet connection to run the CAL SW?
You don't need internet access to run autocal, but that's another indication that the network settings aren't right. What is the IP address of your router?
The PC is connected via HDMI to the projector as an image generator, the communication takes place via network.
That's somewhat misleading. You can use the PC HDMI to feed an active signal to the projector, but you can use another other source as well.
 

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Thanks so much for your reply Dominic! >>

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I wouldn't do that, even if it passes the "Check". Can you not use a direct connection?
I didn't try that due to the recommendations against it here on AVS. Plus, don't you need a something like a crossover cable? I only have a regular Ethernet cable.

If I can use a regular ethernet cable, I can try?

You don't need internet access to run autocal, but that's another indication that the network settings aren't right. What is the IP address of your router?
Seems to be>
Private Network
Router/Gateway Address 192.168.1.254

That's somewhat misleading. You can use the PC HDMI to feed an active signal to the projector, but you can use another other source as well.
Yeah, probably a google translate issue.
 

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I didn't try that due to the recommendations against it here on AVS. Plus, don't you need a something like a crossover cable? I only have a regular Ethernet cable.
No, these days all Ethernet ports will auto-configure by detecting the input signals, you do not need a cross-over cable.
 

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No, these days all Ethernet ports will auto-configure by detecting the input signals, you do not need a cross-over cable.
Ok, I'll try direct connect to my PC's Ethernet tonight.

Would I go about it with the auto DHCP (on) or have to do it manually (off)? And do the manual IP addy settings that I used before (attached from the JVC manual)>>
 

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Ok, I'll try direct connect to my PC's Ethernet tonight.

Would I go about it with the auto DHCP (on) or have to do it manually (off)? And do the manual IP addy settings that I used before (attached from the JVC manual)>>
For a direct link you need to manually assign the ip addresses, e.g., 192.168.0.1 for the PC and 192.168.0.2 for the projector.
 

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That doesn't seem to make sense. I suggest you do the following steps to troubleshoot it:
1. Start with HDR 2.35 mode displaying the patterns (which should look normal based on what you said)
2. Change lamp power from high to low and see if the patterns remain OK.
3. Open the iris from -2 to 0 and see if the patterns remain OK.
4. Zoom the lens to 16:9. I can't image that zooming would turn bar 981 dark red.

By then you should have exactly the same settings as HDR 16:9, but without the dark red bars.
Looks like switching from high to low lamp made the red appear on all the 81+ bars.

There must have been something that went wrong with my low lamp autocal, but I wonder what it may be...

What would you recommend I do next?
 

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I'll be installing and configuring a new RS540 over the holidays :) ...this is replacing an RS40 so I'm only familiar with 1080p SDR content and calibration thus far. My new sources include an Apple TV 4K and Oppo 203. I may well buy a spyder 5 express sometime reasonably soon since JVC autocal is another new feature available to me now.

But I'm first trying to get a sense of how many different preset calibrations I need. Dreamliner mentioned these cases on RS400:

You only need to calibrate the picture modes with settings you actually use. I calibrated (these are the modes I use):

1) Cinema, IRIS -6, CMD OFF, Normal Gamma, Low Lamp (this is 100% of my non 3D & HDR content)
2) HDR BT2020, IRIS 0, CMD OFF, Normal Gamma, Low Lamp
3) Cinema, IRIS 0, CMD OFF, Normal Gamma, High Lamp
4) HDR BT2020, IRIS 0, CMD OFF, Normal Gamma, High Lamp​

Can someone comment on what a reasonable minimal set of modes would be for RS540, given my sources? And I'd previously posted that my screen is a 16:9 115" Ultramatte 150, with a throw distance of ~17'. So the hope was that normal lamp would generally be sufficient. And I don't plan to add the 3D emitter any time soon, so we can skip that.

My naive view going in would be that I need to cover:

1. 1080p SDR - THX mode might be a good start
2. BT.2020 w/HDR
3. BT.2020 non-HDR (e.g. stripped by the Oppo)

And I read in one of the reviews how a filter could be used or not to help increase the color gamut, at the cost of some brightness (apparently the filter was not deferrable i earlier models?)... so maybe that's another option for dealing with wide-gamut material.

So I'm really just looking for some help in the initial steps, of improving the out of box experience. As I gain some experience I'll be interested in pursuing the more advanced configuration/calibrations described in the threads here. And a last thing... I've seen folks referencing UHD mastered for 1000 vs. 4000 nits I believe. Is this something I need to configure separate modes for and to change them manually depending on the source disc?
 

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You may want to post this in the thread for the 2017 models... just saying. Though maybe someone in this thread about the 2015 models knows the features of the 2017 models well enough to answer your questions well.

Based on what I have read, the 540 has a good built in default handling of HDR content. (It can be improved by a professional calibrator who knows how to build custom curves.) So I would probably NOT worry about stripping HDR metadata, or whether content is mastered on a 1000 or 4000 nit monitor, etc etc.

Traditionally THX mode was a good place to start before calibration but at least with the 2015 models, it actually wasn't the closest default out of the box. But unless you learn otherwise, I'd probably start with that on your new 2017 projector.

I wouldn't worry about the 2020 color filter. If you are very starved for brightness, you can disable it, but that's a corner case, imo.

Getting a Spyder and learning autocal makes sense -- but to be safe, finding a known good meter to compare it with is a good idea, because some of them can be outside of spec.
 

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I'll be installing and configuring a new RS540 over the holidays :) ...this is replacing an RS40 so I'm only familiar with 1080p SDR content and calibration thus far. My new sources include an Apple TV 4K and Oppo 203. I may well buy a spyder 5 express sometime reasonably soon since JVC autocal is another new feature available to me now.



But I'm first trying to get a sense of how many different preset calibrations I need. Dreamliner mentioned these cases on RS400:



You only need to calibrate the picture modes with settings you actually use. I calibrated (these are the modes I use):



1) Cinema, IRIS -6, CMD OFF, Normal Gamma, Low Lamp (this is 100% of my non 3D & HDR content)

2) HDR BT2020, IRIS 0, CMD OFF, Normal Gamma, Low Lamp

3) Cinema, IRIS 0, CMD OFF, Normal Gamma, High Lamp

4) HDR BT2020, IRIS 0, CMD OFF, Normal Gamma, High Lamp​



Can someone comment on what a reasonable minimal set of modes would be for RS540, given my sources? And I'd previously posted that my screen is a 16:9 115" Ultramatte 150, with a throw distance of ~17'. So the hope was that normal lamp would generally be sufficient. And I don't plan to add the 3D emitter any time soon, so we can skip that.



My naive view going in would be that I need to cover:



1. 1080p SDR - THX mode might be a good start

2. BT.2020 w/HDR

3. BT.2020 non-HDR (e.g. stripped by the Oppo)



And I read in one of the reviews how a filter could be used or not to help increase the color gamut, at the cost of some brightness (apparently the filter was not deferrable i earlier models?)... so maybe that's another option for dealing with wide-gamut material.



So I'm really just looking for some help in the initial steps, of improving the out of box experience. As I gain some experience I'll be interested in pursuing the more advanced configuration/calibrations described in the threads here. And a last thing... I've seen folks referencing UHD mastered for 1000 vs. 4000 nits I believe. Is this something I need to configure separate modes for and to change them manually depending on the source disc?


I have just finished getting my 540 set up, at least for now...

THX out the box works great for SDR content.

For me, HDR, out of the box was too dim. After running Autocal with a Spyder things were better. After installing JAVS curves with the Arve tool things are great. I’m getting enough brightness (only 40 hours on the bulb) to watch HDR with the 2020 filter, in low lamp. Your particular screen and setup will affect that. I haven’t used the 1000nit curve yet.

My Spyder may or may not be accurate. I have no way to check it. The SDR image seemed a little warm/red to me on a grayscale pattern, so I moved the temp to 7000 from 6500. Otherwise it’s good enough for my eyes.

I would Autocal first, try it, and then move onto Arves tool if you’re still lacking.

My goal was to learn the processes involved and once I get to 100 hours on the bulb I’ll dial in the 3-4 profiles I use the most- SDR movies/TV, SDR sports (setting to account for ambient lights so I can see my food ), 3D and HDR.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for the responses, and sorry for posting in the wrong JVC thread. I’ll pursue the autocal. If I end up installing curves as well, do I then need to do another round of calibration or not?
 

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Thanks for the responses, and sorry for posting in the wrong JVC thread. I’ll pursue the autocal. If I end up installing curves as well, do I then need to do another round of calibration or not?


My understanding is that the curves are offsets from whatever ‘normal’ is so even after calibration the custom curve is untouched.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Hello
I own a JVC X5900 (EUR product numbering) so I can (or actually I need) to use the 2017 V7 version of the software.
I am studying the procedure, but there is one thing that puzzle me
My understanding is that I cannot calibrate in the predefined profiles (such HDR, Cinema, Natural) but I need to calibrate the user profile, after I set in the user profile, the color space, CMD, etc... I am planning to use.
But my VPR is able to switch automatically between the predefined profiles based on source, so Cinema + RGB or HDR if the source is RGB or YUV10, HDR + color space based on metadata, 3D, etc...
But If I calibrate user profile, does it mean that I need to manually select the profile based on the source input?
Also, I think I have understood that the calibration change some very low level parameters, so also other modes are affected. Is this true for the different user profiles or it is only true for the different color space and gamma? Such, calibration in Cinema will only affect Cinema but its gamma and color space will being sharing the same calibration?
Thanks bye
 

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Hello
I own a JVC X5900 (EUR product numbering) so I can (or actually I need) to use the 2017 V7 version of the software.
The X5900 uses the latest V10 software, not V7.

I am studying the procedure, but there is one thing that puzzle me
My understanding is that I cannot calibrate in the predefined profiles (such HDR, Cinema, Natural) but I need to calibrate the user profile, after I set in the user profile, the color space, CMD, etc... I am planning to use.
Where did you see this? Are you referring to the Picture Modes or the Colour Profiles?
 
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