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Picture Modes. I am not planning to use a colour profiles (yet, at least until I will decide to profile by spyder 5)
(I was asking since you used the term "profile" in your previous post). Regardless, where did you see that the "predefined profiles" cannot be calibrated?
Also, calibrated or not, you need to use a colour profile for each mode.
 

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First of all, thank you for the quick reply. I am trying to find where I read this, but It is possible I confuse terminology, because I have now my VPR menu language set to italian and because it is a 2018 model. I will check this evening the exact terminology and come back.
Nevertheless I still have a doubt about the calibration itself. I have read that it changes some very low level settings, such it is not possible to come back without the INIT file generated after the very first calibration attempt.
And also it mentioned that the other "modes" are derived from it (this why you can skip to calibrate gamma for the other modes, even if I understand it is discouraged by other calibration workflow)
So this is why I am confused about calibrating different modes, and also now that I think about, if the INIT file is able to restore really everything, or I need an INIT file for each mode I calibrate the first time
Thanks again
Bye
 

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My understanding is that the curves are offsets from whatever ‘normal’ is so even after calibration the custom curve is untouched.
While it's true that the custom curves themselves are not touched by autocal, what you get is the cumulative effect of the "base curve" plus the custom curve, i.e., the overall picture will change after autocal, even when you use custom curves. That's why you need to have a proper "base curve" (either from the factory, or by running autocal).
 

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And also it mentioned that the other "modes" are derived from it (this why you can skip to calibrate gamma for the other modes, even if I understand it is discouraged by other calibration workflow)
So this is why I am confused about calibrating different modes, and also now that I think about, if the INIT file is able to restore really everything, or I need an INIT file for each mode I calibrate the first time
There is only one INIT file, which the JVC software saves the first time you save your own calibration.
 

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For a direct link you need to manually assign the ip addresses, e.g., 192.168.0.1 for the PC and 192.168.0.2 for the projector.
Didn't get around to doing the direct link until last night, but I did and it was an effortless connection! Thanks Dominic!

But, my results were not to my liking unfortunately.

Background>> RS57 (X700), bought used earlier in the year with about 590 total hrs on it. Had some good black crush, had to run gamma in the 2.0/2.1 range, or run a 2.2 gamma with dark gamma +2 (but I pushed all the colors--and white! Didn't know I was suppose to do just white).
Ended up with about +1 bright, 0 contrast, +3 color, 0 tint, via AVS 709 disc and blue filters. Running 'Natural' (THX was way too dark, with black crush, and very warm), used the 7000 color temp (6500 was too warm).

Pic was pretty good, natural skin tones, little black crush perhaps.

At the 860 hr mark last night> Did the autocal to mostly help with the gamma droop. But I decided to try the color+gamma (quality gamma setting). The result was a very very warm/red temp, even at 7000 color temp. Colors appeared oversaturated, skin tones too red, etc.
Popped the AVS 709 disc in and ended up with +1 Bright, 0-3 contrast, -10 to -13 color (dependent on which blue filter used--Avia or Digital Vid Essentials).

Tried 2.4 gamma with +2 dark gamma (only the white) ---didn't seem improved from what I had before in regards to shadow detail, it seemed worse. The mids-brights might of been a little better (because 2.4 gamma I guess). Settled on 2.3 gamma with +2 on dark gamma, though I might go lower to 2.2 or even 2.1, but the whole point of the gamma autocal was to fix that I thought.

At this point I'm thinking of restoring/reverting via the INIT file, then doing only a gamma autocal.

But, this autocal was done with the iris fully open (manual of course), spyder as close to the PJ, but within the box. When I close the iris down to -11 w/auto2 DI (my usual setting before--have a small 80" diagonal .9 grey), is when it seemed the color temp got real warm and things got too dim. Running the iris manual, fully open, seemed to be more accurate color temp wise, and less black crush, etc.

So, maybe I should run the color+gamma again at the -11 iris point and see how that looks, before I go the 'restore the INIT file route'? That INIT file won't be re-touched, right?

Also possible my spyder4pro meter isn't a great sample (no way to know). If that's the case, I'm ok with restoring the INIT file as I liked the colors @ 7000, then just do the gamma autocal.

I also noticed some '0000.000' numbers (red and green) when the calibrating gamma log was being created. I tried to do some running screen shots to capture it (follows). The calibration 'results' didn't show any 000.0 numbers though.

Also, I don't quite understand the color temp result. Manual was saying that results should be within the red circle, which they are, but that red circle appears to be close to the 6000 temp area, and the white color temp result is 6070. I chose 6500 in the calibration settings before the autocal. ??
 

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Did the autocal to mostly help with the gamma droop. But I decided to try the color+gamma (quality gamma setting). The result was a very very warm/red temp, even at 7000 color temp.
I feel your pain. Autocal is great when it works, but sometimes it produces strange results like this. The software knows that the colour temperature was too warm (6000K) and yet did not correct it. At least you know the error is not due to the meter, so you could use another software like HCFR to correct it.

Colors appeared oversaturated, skin tones too red, etc.
If you're watching HD material, you should set the colour profile to Rec709, not Cinema.

But, this autocal was done with the iris fully open (manual of course), spyder as close to the PJ, but within the box. When I close the iris down to -11 w/auto2 DI (my usual setting before--have a small 80" diagonal .9 grey), is when it seemed the color temp got real warm and things got too dim. Running the iris manual, fully open, seemed to be more accurate color temp wise, and less black crush, etc.
If you're watching movies at iris -11, you need to do at least a colour autocal with that iris setting. It's well known that JVC projectors can change colour temperature dramatically at different iris settings (there are 4 ranges; Manni recommends 0, -5, -10, -15) for ease of remembering.

So, maybe I should run the color+gamma again at the -11 iris point and see how that looks, before I go the 'restore the INIT file route'? That INIT file won't be re-touched, right?
The INIT file is generated only once. You should probably back it up somewhere.

Also possible my spyder4pro meter isn't a great sample (no way to know).
That's true, but the meter cannot be the main culprit as it "sees" the colour temperature being too red, consistent with your visual assessment.
 

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If you're watching HD material, you should set the colour profile to Rec709, not Cinema.
Used 'Natural', not Cinema. On my RS57 there's no Rec709 to chose from in any drop down menu---that I could find. In the main menu there's 'standard' (I think) or video. Of course I use standard. Then I chose 'Natural'---it's the only one that appears natural, lol. I'm guessing it's Rec709, but not sure.

The INIT file is generated only once. You should probably back it up somewhere.
Yeah, I gotta back that up pronto. Don't want to lose it. Might just do it on CD an thumb drive for now (only 25kb), then will do a proper b/u later.

That's true, but the meter cannot be the main culprit as it "sees" the colour temperature being too red, consistent with your visual assessment.
Ok, thanks for that confirmation. I'll try the -11 iris calibration (should I do color+gamma or just color?) before I go for the INIT restore.
 

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Used 'Natural', not Cinema. On my RS57 there's no Rec709 to chose from in any drop down menu---that I could find. In the main menu there's 'standard' (I think) or video. Of course I use standard. Then I chose 'Natural'---it's the only one that appears natural, lol. I'm guessing it's Rec709, but not sure.
You can download the Rec709 profile and use it as a custom profile.
 

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You can download the Rec709 profile and use it as a custom profile.
The 709 is like the std for blu ray, etc....and the RS57 only came out like 3-4 years ago....can't imagine it doesn't have the profile in it (like the natural setting)?

Or are you saying it actually doesn't??
 

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Ok, so does my RS57 have the Rec709 profile in it?

And that link was about the 'NF' version of that 709 profile?
NF simply denotes No Filter.
That post was about the 2016 models, but even previous models have “standard” profiles that have wider gamut than Rec709.
 

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(I was asking since you used the term "profile" in your previous post). Regardless, where did you see that the "predefined profiles" cannot be calibrated?
Also, calibrated or not, you need to use a colour profile for each mode.



So we have "Picture mode" with 4 preset (Cinema, Animation, Natural, HDR)



And "color profile" that depends on the "picture mode". Normally both of them are autodetect, so if I play a YUV or RGB video, it turn in Cinema and depending of the color space (YUV, RGB, YUV10) it selects Cinema or HDR
If I play an HDR video with metadata, the HDR "Picture mode" is selected and the color profile switch to what is present in metadata.
Custom "color customization" (i.e to compensate the probe shall go in the "Picture management") can be left untouched.
So, coming back to the questions: is correct my understanding that I shall calibrate all the "Picture mode"? If so, what "color profile" shall I use (in particular when it comes to HDR)
Also, shall I assume that the calibration is within the boundaries of the "color mode", so a calibration for cinema will affect all the "color profile" but not the other "color mode" (i.e. calibration for cinema won't affect HDR)?
Thanks, bye
 

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And "color profile" that depends on the "picture mode". Normally both of them are autodetect, so if I play a YUV or RGB video, it turn in Cinema and depending of the color space (YUV, RGB, YUV10) it selects Cinema or HDR
If I play an HDR video with metadata, the HDR "Picture mode" is selected and the color profile switch to what is present in metadata.
Custom "color customization" (i.e to compensate the probe shall go in the "Picture management") can be left untouched.
So, coming back to the questions: is correct my understanding that I shall calibrate all the "Picture mode"? If so, what "color profile" shall I use (in particular when it comes to HDR)
Also, shall I assume that the calibration is within the boundaries of the "color mode", so a calibration for cinema will affect all the "color profile" but not the other "color mode" (i.e. calibration for cinema won't affect HDR)?
Thanks, bye
The way I understand it, Picture Mode is simply a specific combination of settings such as Colour Profile, Colour Temperature, Gamma, etc. Unfortunately some of the names (Cinema etc) are used for both Picture Mode and Colour Profile, which can be confusing sometimes.
Thus AutoCal does not calibrate the Picture Modes as such, but rather, the individual Colour Profile, Colour Temperature, Gamma settings. Once these are calibrated, you can use them in other Picture Modes and carry over the calibration results.
 

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NF simply denotes No Filter.
That post was about the 2016 models, but even previous models have “standard” profiles that have wider gamut than Rec709.
These are what's available to me on my RS57 (attached).

I run 'Standard' picture mode, then the 'Natural' color profile.

It only says its the 'HDTV Standard'.

Most all the other color profiles throw a filter on and things look wack.
 

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Also, should I be concerned about the zero values for Red and Green 'Z' numbers? I don't know if those were sensor readings or adjustment/correction amounts. Though it would seem strange that you wouldn't have some adjustment with 3 decimal points allowed.

??
 

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I just spent quite a while trying to calibrate my RS540 and am having issues. I am currently using lens on -3, auto 2; imported REC-709NF color profile, 6500k, normal gamma, CMD off, low lamp. I have a 130" Centerstage XD screen a little futher back than max zoom, fully light controlled room. I have a spyder5 for autocal and an i1display pro for HCFR.

-3 lens gets me 14.9ftl is my first issue. Does that seem reasonable?

I followed the guide and went from 0 to -15 CMD off and off with standard color then did color for the REC-709NF. Here's my before measurement:




And here are my afters, it looks way worse. In autocal, everything looked good along the way.






Any idea what I could have done wrong or why I need the lens at -3? Standard color profile is the same ftl. Natural picture mode hits 15.5flt, at -0 it's 17.1ftl. High bright temp gets 20.2ftl at -0 and high lamp, high bright, -0 lens only hits 27.5ftl.
 

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And here are my afters, it looks way worse. In autocal, everything looked good along the way.
The After measurements look worse as the white balance calibrated using the Spyder disagrees with what the i1D3 sees. You can use a custom white point (with offsets in xy to compensate for the Spyder error), to simply use the i1D3 to re-adjust the RGB Gains (do not touch the RGB Offsets).
BTW, you should run HCFR with the Iris in Manual rather than Auto.
 

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The After measurements look worse as the white balance calibrated using the Spyder disagrees with what the i1D3 sees. You can use a custom white point (with offsets in xy to compensate for the Spyder error), to simply use the i1D3 to re-adjust the RGB Gains (do not touch the RGB Offsets).
BTW, you should run HCFR with the Iris in Manual rather than Auto.
Thanks, here is manual -3 iris, custom 2.4 gamma. Differntly off. If the meters are that far apart (dE's up to 13) is the spyder helping or just ruining everything? Primary/secondaries are way off too, dE's up to 14. How would I use a custom white point, in autocal or HCFR? And then the RGB gain/offset under color temp is like a 2 point gamma control? Why would I only adjust the gain (high end) and not the offset (low end)? Even then, that would just be for 1 iris level.

This is so much more difficult than a normal 2 or 11pt gamma/color adjust that I've done before. Or should I just trust whatever the spyder did?

 
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