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Thanks, here is manual -3 iris, custom 2.4 gamma. Differntly off. If the meters are that far apart (dE's up to 13) is the spyder helping or just ruining everything?
The Spyder can make things worse, if your projector is performing properly in the first place. Autocal, when it works well, has some advantages over manual calibration as it works at a lower level so calibrating one gamma level (e.g., 2.2) will "fix" all gamma levels.
However, any calibration results can only be as good as the meter used for calibration. In the first post (by Manni) there are a few links describing how to correct for errors in the Spyder.

BTW, it's a common misconception that RGB Gain only affects the upper end. It applies to the entire range proportionately. Here's an example showing the effect of changing only the RGB gains:
 

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I did an autocal on my X5900, with software v10 and spyder 5.
I run two autocal on Cinema+HDR+6500K and HDR+HDR+gamma for HDR.
A part of the good graphs (gamma ev < 0.08) in the end it removed the blu dominance I had (human lips violet).
The overall result seems ok, even if coming from Sony everything seems to be a little bit too warm (but was the same also before autocal)
 

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Didn't get around to doing the direct link until last night, but I did and it was an effortless connection! Thanks Dominic!

But, my results were not to my liking unfortunately.

Background>> RS57 (X700), bought used earlier in the year with about 590 total hrs on it. Had some good black crush, had to run gamma in the 2.0/2.1 range, or run a 2.2 gamma with dark gamma +2 (but I pushed all the colors--and white! Didn't know I was suppose to do just white).
Ended up with about +1 bright, 0 contrast, +3 color, 0 tint, via AVS 709 disc and blue filters. Running 'Natural' (THX was way too dark, with black crush, and very warm), used the 7000 color temp (6500 was too warm).

Pic was pretty good, natural skin tones, little black crush perhaps.

At the 860 hr mark last night> Did the autocal to mostly help with the gamma droop. But I decided to try the color+gamma (quality gamma setting). The result was a very very warm/red temp, even at 7000 color temp. Colors appeared oversaturated, skin tones too red, etc.
Popped the AVS 709 disc in and ended up with +1 Bright, 0-3 contrast, -10 to -13 color (dependent on which blue filter used--Avia or Digital Vid Essentials).

Tried 2.4 gamma with +2 dark gamma (only the white) ---didn't seem improved from what I had before in regards to shadow detail, it seemed worse. The mids-brights might of been a little better (because 2.4 gamma I guess). Settled on 2.3 gamma with +2 on dark gamma, though I might go lower to 2.2 or even 2.1, but the whole point of the gamma autocal was to fix that I thought.

At this point I'm thinking of restoring/reverting via the INIT file, then doing only a gamma autocal.

But, this autocal was done with the iris fully open (manual of course), spyder as close to the PJ, but within the box. When I close the iris down to -11 w/auto2 DI (my usual setting before--have a small 80" diagonal .9 grey), is when it seemed the color temp got real warm and things got too dim. Running the iris manual, fully open, seemed to be more accurate color temp wise, and less black crush, etc.

So, maybe I should run the color+gamma again at the -11 iris point and see how that looks, before I go the 'restore the INIT file route'? That INIT file won't be re-touched, right?

Also possible my spyder4pro meter isn't a great sample (no way to know). If that's the case, I'm ok with restoring the INIT file as I liked the colors @ 7000, then just do the gamma autocal.

I also noticed some '0000.000' numbers (red and green) when the calibrating gamma log was being created. I tried to do some running screen shots to capture it (follows). The calibration 'results' didn't show any 000.0 numbers though.

Also, I don't quite understand the color temp result. Manual was saying that results should be within the red circle, which they are, but that red circle appears to be close to the 6000 temp area, and the white color temp result is 6070. I chose 6500 in the calibration settings before the autocal. ??
So I ended up doing a INIT restore, with the intent on doing just a gamma cal.

After the INIT restore, I did a log only with the autocal to see where my RS57 was as the starting point. I know there's normally a 'before' line for gamma and color in the calibration results, but there was no 'before' for the color temp graph, which the log would show me. As we can see, my color temp was venturing much warmer at lower APL's.

Log only>
 

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Regardless, I wanted to try and do a gamma only calibration.

But after I ran a gamma only calibration, the result showed no gamma correction being done. This was the graph at the end of the gamma only cal, showing the 'after' line deviating from the 2.2 green line quite a bit. I was perplexed>
 

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So I decided to do a full color+gamma autocal since my color temp wasn't even across different APL's.

First color+gamma was done at full open iris.
Then I did color+gamma at -10, -9 and -11 iris settings (in that order). The -10 autocal was with the spyder positioned when set at the full iris open position, because in the autocal sw you adjust the iris setting AFTER the spyder is positioned in the rectangular box. That didn't seem right to me. I repositioned the spyder closer for the -9 and -11 iris settings. So -9 position was actually under the -10 iris, etc.

Gamma came out spot on the green line, color temp was still near the 6000k mark.

I noticed how drastically different the colors where when I clicked my iris beyond the iris positions I'd autocal'd. I'm running -11 with auto2 DI setting, so I was worried that the colors would shift when the DI was clamping down below the -9 point, but didn't notice anything. It seems the autocal iris setting is specific to the manual iris point. But it did seem that every single manual iris point would be a different calibration, so be sure to autocal every single manual iris point you actually use.

Here's my results from the -11 iris position.
 

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So, even though I autocal'd at the 6500k color temp every time, my result still ends up around 6000k. So I just use the 7000k color temp in my RS57 menu.

Would it help that I redo my autocal with 7000k selected instead? It was my understanding that autocal calibrated all the color temp presets, if so, there shouldn't be a difference if I autocal'd @ 7000k?
 

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Hi all
I have a question: on a JVC X5900, if I have calibrated a certain "Picture Mode" (Cinema) with a certain "color temp" (6500K) and a specific "Color Profile", in this case HDR which is automatically selected for RGB and YUV8 inputs, and a Gamma. Shall I assume that the same calibration is valid also for other "Color Profile"?
This because, I think to understand that the calibration belongs to the combination of Picture Mode, "color temp" and "gamm", while "Color Pofile" is derivated from the same calibration. Is this assumption correct?
Bye
 

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I noticed how drastically different the colors where when I clicked my iris beyond the iris positions I'd autocal'd. I'm running -11 with auto2 DI setting, so I was worried that the colors would shift when the DI was clamping down below the -9 point, but didn't notice anything. It seems the autocal iris setting is specific to the manual iris point. But it did seem that every single manual iris point would be a different calibration, so be sure to autocal every single manual iris point you actually use.
The manual iris points are divided into 4 groups. I don't remember where the boundaries are for each group, but as Manni mentioned, doing it at 0, -5, -10, -15 covers all points.
 

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The manual iris points are divided into 4 groups. I don't remember where the boundaries are for each group, but as Manni mentioned, doing it at 0, -5, -10, -15 covers all points.
Ok, I'll try that.

But coulda sworn I saw a recommendation to calibrate your actual iris point, even after doing the 4 group points. I.E., if you do 0, -5, -10, -15, but you run your manual iris @ -12, you should also calibrate at the -12 point.
 

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Ok, I'll try that.

But coulda sworn I saw a recommendation to calibrate your actual iris point, even after doing the 4 group points. I.E., if you do 0, -5, -10, -15, but you run your manual iris @ -12, you should also calibrate at the -12 point.
You do one or the other, not one after the other.
 

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Hi all
I have a question: on a JVC X5900, if I have calibrated a certain "Picture Mode" (Cinema) with a certain "color temp" (6500K) and a specific "Color Profile", in this case HDR which is automatically selected for RGB and YUV8 inputs, and a Gamma. Shall I assume that the same calibration is valid also for other "Color Profile"?
This because, I think to understand that the calibration belongs to the combination of Picture Mode, "color temp" and "gamm", while "Color Pofile" is derivated from the same calibration. Is this assumption correct?
Bye
Hello
No one has some information regarding this topic?
 

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Hello
No one has some information regarding this topic?
I'm not quite sure what you're actually asking. As mentioned in my previous post, what get calibrated are the Colour Profile, Colour Temperature, Gamma. The "Picture Mode" is just a combination of the others and does not get calibrated directly.
 

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Mmm most probably I am the one not clear here. Under "picture mode" there are multiple "color profile" (for instance mode "cinema" has three preset color profile (natural, cinema, HDR) each of those can be set to a specific gamma. So, calibration affects each color profile and NOT picture mode? This because I got somehow confused by the calibration filename. It includes the picture mode name and not the color profile, so that's why I thought that was the mode as whole to be calibrated
 

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Autocal for Manni’s bt2020NF

Folks, before I run phase 3 Autocal for Manni’s BT2020NF color profile (trying to optimize hdr brightness) would phase 1 just be run using non reference color profiles that don’t use the filter? ie. Cinema or Natural NOT Reference, given the BT2020NF doesn’t use a filter?
 

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Folks, before I run phase 3 Autocal for Manni’s BT2020NF color profile (trying to optimize hdr brightness) would phase 1 just be run using non reference color profiles that don’t use the filter? ie. Cinema or Natural NOT Reference, given the BT2020NF doesn’t use a filter?
Completely forgot about that. Both would be incorrect, so I need to look into this (not sure when I'll be able to). You can't just replace color profile after the autocal and expect accurate results. I would expect the results to be better using a colour profile without a filter before applying BT2020-NF, but you need to take measurements after the autocal to find which would give best results.
 

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Completely forgot about that. Both would be incorrect, so I need to look into this (not sure when I'll be able to). You can't just replace color profile after the autocal and expect accurate results. I would expect the results to be better using a colour profile without a filter before applying BT2020-NF, but you need to take measurements after the autocal to find which would give best results.
Thanks, I won’t use bt2020NF then since there is more investigation to be done...at 85-87 nits looks like a competent calibrator, a higher gain screen, or a smaller screen are my only 3 options to increase brightness...
 

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Quesiton: a calibration performed with CMD off is valid also for CMD ON (of course same profile, gamma, etc...) even if maybe a little suboptimal?
 

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Quesiton: a calibration performed with CMD off is valid also for CMD ON (of course same profile, gamma, etc...) even if maybe a little suboptimal?
My understanding is that with a change to any of the following:

- Lamp high/low
- Filter on/off
- CMD on/off
- Iris (changes of more than a few clicks either way)

You should probably rerun your autocal. In your case, you might be able to correct gamma/grayscale fine using Calman/HCFR with the internal controls. Really depends on how far off they are.
 

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Saw the cine4home review of the first jvc auto cal. They didnt recommend to use a spyder on a new pj.
With the current software rev and spyder 5 is the consensus still the same?

I have a 5500 and think red is a bit to much and perhaps green too and was wondering to go the spyder 5 way if its precise enough.
What about using your eyes? Lol. I think for colors it should be doable. Gamma curves less so.

Had an xrite pro a few years back and it was fine but will not go full in again due to time.
 
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