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i am not planning on calibrating color with the spyder5 so...was just wondering thanks for the feedback!
 

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Finally worked through my projector and meter connection issues with Autocal and am looking for some feedback on my log only results before I run it for real.
I am thinking my results do not look so good, but maybe I just do not understand what I am looking at...
I have an RS540 and am using the Argyll "patch" with Autocal. I did two log only runs- first with a i1Display Pro, second with a Spyder 5. All settings below were common across both unless noted.

For 4k viewing I use the UB820 - SDR2020 -> X990: settings verbatim from post 1 of the RS640/ RS540 thread.
I am rather undecided about what settings to use for regular blu ray. I do prefer to keep the color filter engaged and use the same iris settings for both blu ray and 4k (this isn't a picture quality assessment so much as a desire to keep the moving bits of the projector moving as little as possible...) I mention this because while I used Cinema/ Cinema1 for the runs I am not married to them.

Settings:
1) Eco mode off
2) Lens Aperture set to manual, iris= 0
4) Picture mode = Cinema
5) Color Profile = Cinema1
6) Color temp = 6500k
7) Gamma = Normal
8) Placement: i1Display: Sensor facing screen and pointed at center of picture. Approx 8 inches away from screen and angled around 45 degrees up to try an keep the sensor shadow out of the way.
Spyder 5: Sensor facing projector, located at the right of the Autocal placement window.

The log only results:
3096825
3096826
3096827
3096828
3096829
3096830
3096831
3096832
 

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Finally worked through my projector and meter connection issues with Autocal and am looking for some feedback on my log only results before I run it for real.
I am thinking my results do not look so good, but maybe I just do not understand what I am looking at...
I have an RS540 and am using the Argyll "patch" with Autocal. I did two log only runs- first with a i1Display Pro, second with a Spyder 5. All settings below were common across both unless noted.

For 4k viewing I use the UB820 - SDR2020 -> X990: settings verbatim from post 1 of the RS640/ RS540 thread.
I am rather undecided about what settings to use for regular blu ray. I do prefer to keep the color filter engaged and use the same iris settings for both blu ray and 4k (this isn't a picture quality assessment so much as a desire to keep the moving bits of the projector moving as little as possible...) I mention this because while I used Cinema/ Cinema1 for the runs I am not married to them.

Settings:
1) Eco mode off
2) Lens Aperture set to manual, iris= 0
4) Picture mode = Cinema
5) Color Profile = Cinema1
6) Color temp = 6500k
7) Gamma = Normal
8) Placement: i1Display: Sensor facing screen and pointed at center of picture. Approx 8 inches away from screen and angled around 45 degrees up to try an keep the sensor shadow out of the way.
Spyder 5: Sensor facing projector, located at the right of the Autocal placement window.

The log only results:
View attachment 3096825 View attachment 3096826 View attachment 3096827 View attachment 3096828 View attachment 3096829 View attachment 3096830 View attachment 3096831 View attachment 3096832
The results look fairly typical, and are similar between the i1DisplayPro and Spyder5.
I’m not sure why you would use the same iris setting (full open) for HDR and SDR. Typically people close the iris Down to produce 50-60 nits peak for SDR.
 

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The results look fairly typical, and are similar between the i1DisplayPro and Spyder5.
I’m not sure why you would use the same iris setting (full open) for HDR and SDR. Typically people close the iris Down to produce 50-60 nits peak for SDR.
Thanks for the feedback Dominic. I guess I will try and run it for real tomorrow- I might try tinkering with placement a bit.
 

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Thanks for the feedback Dominic. I guess I will try and run it for real tomorrow- I might try tinkering with placement a bit.
Try to use a less steep angle for the i1D3. Ideally in line with the main viewing position. No need to be so close to the screen.
 

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@Dominic Chan I'd like to get into auto cal for my JVC RS 500 projector. Does RS500 support auto cal since its a rather few years old projector? I saw this video and it seems a straight forward process. My projector was professionally calibrated 3 years ago by Chad but I'd like to learn this process myself a bit. I do complex audio calibration so why not learn a bit of video calibration as well :). A few questions if you don't mind

1 - How accurate is this auto calibration as compared to professional calibration? I understand that it wan't be as good as professional but how far off is it?
2 - The video I linked above using Spyder X Pro. Is that a good meter to go with?

Much appreciated.
 

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@Dominic Chan I'd like to get into auto cal for my JVC RS 500 projector. Does RS500 support auto cal since its a rather few years old projector?
This thread is for Autocal of RS500.

I saw this video and it seems a straight forward process. My projector was professionally calibrated 3 years ago by Chad but I'd like to learn this process myself a bit. I do complex audio calibration so why not learn a bit of video calibration as well :). A few questions if you don't mind

1 - How accurate is this auto calibration as compared to professional calibration? I understand that it wan't be as good as professional but how far off is it?
2 - The video I linked above using Spyder X Pro. Is that a good meter to go with?

Much appreciated.
For answers to basic (non-specific) questions please read the first two pages of the thread.
The SpyderX is not supported by this version of Autocal unless you use patched DLLs:
 

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Finally worked through my projector and meter connection issues with Autocal and am looking for some feedback on my log only results before I run it for real.
I am thinking my results do not look so good, but maybe I just do not understand what I am looking at...
I have an RS540 and am using the Argyll "patch" with Autocal. I did two log only runs- first with a i1Display Pro, second with a Spyder 5. All settings below were common across both unless noted.
I'm having problems getting the Autocal software to recognize my Spyder5 Pro. Any advice? Running Windows 10. The native Datacolor software works fine.
 

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I'm having problems getting the Autocal software to recognize my Spyder5 Pro. Any advice? Running Windows 10. The native Datacolor software works fine.
Might try this thread...
 
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I'm having problems getting the Autocal software to recognize my Spyder5 Pro. Any advice? Running Windows 10. The native Datacolor software works fine.
Woof- this has been a real challenge for me so far ( frustrating since it feels like most folks breeze through this)... That said, I think there are three threads to find help- the owners thread, the calibration thread, and the alternative meters thread ( if that applies to you).

I ended up deleting everything ( and I mean everything) and starting over from the beginning. I can't really say where my last roadblock was... Corrupt file or id10t error.

I guess my best advice is to define/ explain in as much detail as possible your first roadblock as well as what you have tried to resolve it. There are a number of folks her ( like Dominic) who will help, but the more info and detail you can give the more useful the feedback will be.
 

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I'm having problems getting the Autocal software to recognize my Spyder5 Pro. Any advice? Running Windows 10. The native Datacolor software works fine.
This is being discussed in the other thread:
The error message “No input signal” refers to the projector’s input; not the meter (Spyder5) connected to the PC.
 

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This is being discussed in the other thread:
The error message “No input signal” refers to the projector’s input; not the meter (Spyder5) connected to the PC.
So are you saying that the AVR needs to be on as well?
 

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So are you saying that the AVR needs to be on as well?
Yes, if the source is routed through the AVR. However, you can also connect the HDMI output (if any) of the calibration PC to HDMI2.
 

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Looking for some feedback on my first actual Autocal on my RS540 using my i1Display Pro. I spent some time in log only experimenting with meter position/ distance to screen based on Dominic's comments- I moved the meter back from screen some (approx 40 inches) and put the meter more in line with viewing angle. I used Cinema for this round.

The Gamma came out spot on, but I am thinking the color and color temp do not look good:
3111002
3111003
 

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Looking for some feedback on my first actual Autocal on my RS540 using my i1Display Pro. I spent some time in log only experimenting with meter position/ distance to screen based on Dominic's comments- I moved the meter back from screen some (approx 40 inches) and put the meter more in line with viewing angle. I used Cinema for this round.

The Gamma came out spot on, but I am thinking the color and color temp do not look good:
View attachment 3111002 View attachment 3111003
The Color Temperature readings are high, but are likely the "true" values (more blue than D65).
There's some "bulging" in the CIE diagram but that happens quite often. To check the colour accuracy you need to use Rec709 profile.
 

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The Color Temperature readings are high, but are likely the "true" values (more blue than D65).
There's some "bulging" in the CIE diagram but that happens quite often. To check the colour accuracy you need to use Rec709 profile.
Dominic- I am totally confused now. When you say I need to use Rec709 for color- what is that? I do not see a Rec709 in Picture Mode, or Color Profile (I see Standard, Cinema1, Cinema2, HDR, and BT.2020) menus...

And to make matters worse, that last run that I posted has really messed up the picture. All of my shadows/blacks are now seriously red shifted. At first I thought this was no big deal, I could just import the init file and start over. The import completed without error, but the red shift remains. It does not look like the init settings loaded.

Any suggestions would be welcome.
 
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