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Hello :),
The software saves the destination folder, set in the 'settings menu, the User1xxx.cbd file with the name of the profile used during the Autocal process, a calibration backup files. Does not create any new files to be imported.
The files saved on the PCs are back up files in case you need to go back to a previous calibration (including the original factory settings). The results of the current calibration are automatically sent to the projector, you don't need to upload it from the pc.
 

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thank you!!!
when I make the calibration of 33 steps for you to get a range with a straight line is recommended with iris fully open or directly with iris - 14 (no mcd, low lamp)?
 

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I tried calibrating my 400 last night but the program crashed after running the calibration when it was saving the results. It crashes every time at 14% no matter which calibration routine or setting. I tried moving the sensor back as far as the screen itself, but it's still crashing. Any ideas to try? I'm on Windows 10 64bit with a Spyder 5 Pro. Thanks
 

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I tried calibrating my 400 last night but the program crashed after running the calibration when it was saving the results. It crashes every time at 14% no matter which calibration routine or setting. I tried moving the sensor back as far as the screen itself, but it's still crashing. Any ideas to try? I'm on Windows 10 64bit with a Spyder 5 Pro. Thanks
Disable try icon of datacolor software?
 

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I tried calibrating my 400 last night but the program crashed after running the calibration when it was saving the results. It crashes every time at 14% no matter which calibration routine or setting.
Is there an active video input connected to the projector during calibration? For some reason that is required.
 

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Who can answer my previous question, tonight I would like to make the autocal...:)
-14 was what Manni used for his screen; you need to see what you need for your own setup and use that aperture for auto cal.
 

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Understand ... but to get the perfect range is advisable to start autocal with gamma+color with the iris to the max or I can start directly with small iris?
According to Manni's guide, you would do a full calibration wth the iris wide open, then do a Colour only calibration with your desired iris setting.
 

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I tried calibrating my 400 last night but the program crashed after running the calibration when it was saving the results. It crashes every time at 14% no matter which calibration routine or setting. I tried moving the sensor back as far as the screen itself, but it's still crashing. Any ideas to try? I'm on Windows 10 64bit with a Spyder 5 Pro. Thanks
The meter is too close to the pj. Move it back following the guidelines listed in Mannis post.
 

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Hi @Andreas21 - I've been calibrating with a Radiance and CalMAN for years and trying to get the autocal working directly with the JVC autocal software (no more Radiance). I'm hoping you and perhaps others as well can help clarify a few points. I've been through this thread over and over and there are still some questions and things that don't appear to be working as they should.

1. The autocal does not seem to adjust the color temperature at all. It sets the brightness level (gamma) and color, but not color temp. For instance I selected 6500K color temp with zeros in RGB gains/offsets. Before calibration I use the built-in 100% white pattern in the JVC service menu to measure the CT and dE and its at 6100 with a high dE. I then see in the running logs displayed during the autocal as it shows 12.5%, 25%, etc that the xy values are pretty far off from the 0.313, 0.329 target (like it'll show 0.29, 0.36) the whole way through. Then at the end of the autocal I bring up the service menu 100% pattern and check again and the CT and dE is exactly as it was prior to the autocal. Now, if I set the RGB gains to give me 6500 dE near 0 prior to autocal, then when I am done I still have the same exact reading - and as its logging 12.5%, 25% etc I see values much closer to the target like 0.312, 0.330.

What am I missing here or doing wrong? Maybe part of the issue is that 100% built in white pattern in the service menu may not be a good reference to check the work of the autocal, I don't know...

2. I have been through the posts many times over and over, but still do not quite understand the way the presets go. Some posts say you only have to run gamma+color "ONCE". Yet it seems this may have to be done for each User mode. Maybe that means once per user mode?

3. How do the presets at the beginning of the autocal effect things besides the color gamut calibrated? For instance if I select Gamma as Normal vs Custom 1? This is really confusing because posts I read say that when it calibrates gamma it stores it in "ALL" gammas. So why then does that selection even matter? Same question applies to the color temperate preset selected.

4. So let's say a run a gamma or gamma+color and choose the Normal preset. And the end result is a perfectly straight line (which it is). If I want to run a 2.3 or 2.4 gamma, do I just choose Custom 1 in my gamma menu and then choose the 2.3 or 2.4 correction value, and doing so automatically bases that off of the corrected (autocal'ed) 2.2 straight gamma? Or do I have to calibrate the 2.3 and 2.4 gamma separately?

5. What is the key for getting the autocal to show that it is adjusting the presets and not show a "-" there? I read a section in the posts about this at least a dozen times but it is unclear to me what he is saying. Also in case you are thinking this is why the color temperature is not getting set (like if the dash shows) I did run calibrations that showed a color temp preset and not a dash and that did not make a difference either - the CT does not seem to be adjusted).

Thanks!!
 

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1. The autocal does not seem to adjust the color temperature at all. It sets the brightness level (gamma) and color, but not color temp.
I had the same problem. I needed to adjust the color myself using HCFR afterwards. I thought maybe trying a custom slot with a target of 6500K would work better but it didn't make a difference.

2. I have been through the posts many times over and over, but still do not quite understand the way the presets go. Some posts say you only have to run gamma+color "ONCE".
The way I interpreted it was not to run gamma against gamma D for Ultra HD. For HDTV I picked a custom slot with a target of 2.2 and autocal says it ended up with gamma 2.2 although I'm not 100% it did.

I also hope other people can provide more detailed answers.
 

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I had the same problem. I needed to adjust the color myself using HCFR afterwards. I thought maybe trying a custom slot with a target of 6500K would work better but it didn't make a difference...
It's one thing to touch things up afterward for D65 @100%. But a critical piece of a calibration in general is having the correct color temp / dE at all the various steps along the way, such 5%, 10%, 15%, 20% etc. It should be doing this for us in the 33 steps, but does not seem to. Even if it is possible to manually adjust this afterward in all 20 or 33 steps, that's not something I have any interest in doing manually. I'm spoiled from the days of Radiance+CalMAN autocal where it did all this for me. Long gone are the days I would stay until the wee early hours of the morning manually calibrating such things, only to have them drift a few hundred bulb hours later. This is why it's really important that we identify why the color temp is not being adjusted across the full range (or anywhere it seems) because Manni says that indeed it does do this - so I am not sure why it's not for us.
 

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Hi @Andreas21 - I've been calibrating with a Radiance and CalMAN for years and trying to get the autocal working directly with the JVC autocal software (no more Radiance). I'm hoping you and perhaps others as well can help clarify a few points. I've been through this thread over and over and there are still some questions and things that don't appear to be working as they should.

1. The autocal does not seem to adjust the color temperature at all. It sets the brightness level (gamma) and color, but not color temp. For instance I selected 6500K color temp with zeros in RGB gains/offsets. Before calibration I use the built-in 100% white pattern in the JVC service menu to measure the CT and dE and its at 6100 with a high dE. I then see in the running logs displayed during the autocal as it shows 12.5%, 25%, etc that the xy values are pretty far off from the 0.313, 0.329 target (like it'll show 0.29, 0.36) the whole way through. Then at the end of the autocal I bring up the service menu 100% pattern and check again and the CT and dE is exactly as it was prior to the autocal. Now, if I set the RGB gains to give me 6500 dE near 0 prior to autocal, then when I am done I still have the same exact reading - and as its logging 12.5%, 25% etc I see values much closer to the target like 0.312, 0.330.

What am I missing here or doing wrong? Maybe part of the issue is that 100% built in white pattern in the service menu may not be a good reference to check the work of the autocal, I don't know...

2. I have been through the posts many times over and over, but still do not quite understand the way the presets go. Some posts say you only have to run gamma+color "ONCE". Yet it seems this may have to be done for each User mode. Maybe that means once per user mode?

3. How do the presets at the beginning of the autocal effect things besides the color gamut calibrated? For instance if I select Gamma as Normal vs Custom 1? This is really confusing because posts I read say that when it calibrates gamma it stores it in "ALL" gammas. So why then does that selection even matter? Same question applies to the color temperate preset selected.

4. So let's say a run a gamma or gamma+color and choose the Normal preset. And the end result is a perfectly straight line (which it is). If I want to run a 2.3 or 2.4 gamma, do I just choose Custom 1 in my gamma menu and then choose the 2.3 or 2.4 correction value, and doing so automatically bases that off of the corrected (autocal'ed) 2.2 straight gamma? Or do I have to calibrate the 2.3 and 2.4 gamma separately?

5. What is the key for getting the autocal to show that it is adjusting the presets and not show a "-" there? I read a section in the posts about this at least a dozen times but it is unclear to me what he is saying. Also in case you are thinking this is why the color temperature is not getting set (like if the dash shows) I did run calibrations that showed a color temp preset and not a dash and that did not make a difference either - the CT does not seem to be adjusted).

Thanks!!
I use the manual 12 point (13 point with the gain control in the PJ) to calibrate the grayscale/gamma and this is only takes about one hour. I do this because the Autocal seems to raise the near black (up to 5%) and it makes the 2.4 power gamma into a bt.1886 light, and I personally dont like the bt1886 gamma at all. My experience is also that the grayscale is not perfect after an Autocal, but what can you expect from a really cheap probe that calibrates from the lens. I will also test the isf/THX software soon to do a 33 point manual grayscale/gamma calibration. One of the reasons I do this is because I want the accuracy of my Jeti/Klein combination and it is not something a 200$ probe can achieve.

I am sorry I can not help you with most of your questions and the guru in this tread opted to leave it after a small disagreement with me and it does not look like he is coming back.
 

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I use the manual 12 point (13 point with the gain control in the PJ) to calibrate the grayscale/gamma and this is only takes about one hour. I do this because the Autocal seems to raise the near black (up to 5%) and it makes the 2.4 power gamma into a bt.1886 light, and I personally dont like the bt1886 gamma at all. My experience is also that the grayscale is not perfect after an Autocal, but what can you expect from a really cheap probe that calibrates from the lens. I will also test the isf/THX software soon to do a 33 point manual grayscale/gamma calibration. One of the reasons I do this is because I want the accuracy of my Jeti/Klein combination and it is not something a 200$ probe can achieve.

I am sorry I can not help you with most of your questions and the guru in this tread opted to leave it after a small disagreement with me and it does not look like he is coming back.
Do you know why the autocal is not adjusting my color temperature, whether it gets it wrong or right? I just doesn't seem to be adjusting it. What can I look at?

Regarding the 12 point controls - I haven't looked but I assume those are accessible from the JVC custom gamma menu, like they used to be years ago before they removed them (and not something you manually adjust through the software)? Doesn't adjusting those RGB values then change the luminance at each interval, thereby affecting the gamma and now the gamma is no longer perfect. Or if you are having to readjust the RGB at each interval aren't you then mostly just undoing/redoing what the auto cal did?
 

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Do you know why the autocal is not adjusting my color temperature, whether it gets it wrong or right? I just doesn't seem to be adjusting it. What can I look at?

Regarding the 12 point controls - I haven't looked but I assume those are accessible from the JVC custom gamma menu, like they used to be years ago before they removed them (and not something you manually adjust through the software)? Doesn't adjusting those RGB values then change the luminance at each interval, thereby affecting the gamma and now the gamma is no longer perfect. Or if you are having to readjust the RGB at each interval aren't you then mostly just undoing/redoing what the auto cal did?
I am no Manny or any of the other experts, but Manni has recommended that you only calibrate 100% white to D65 after running the autocal. I have found that to work quite nicely. Of course, you have to do that with an other probe and another software. I use Chromapure with the i1D3 Pro meter.
 

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I am no Manny or any of the other experts, but Manni has recommended that you only calibrate 100% white to D65 after running the autocal. I have found that to work quite nicely. Of course, you have to do that with an other probe and another software. I use Chromapure with the i1D3 Pro meter.
Thanks. The issue is that it doesn't seem to be setting the color temperature wrong, its that it does not set the color temperature at all. Which it should be doing with each gamma adjustment. Fixing 100% at the end is no big deal, but that doesn't then fix how all the other steps track, particularly at the low end such as 5%, 10% etc which any autocal software should be doing.
 

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I am no Manny or any of the other experts, but Manni has recommended that you only calibrate 100% white to D65 after running the autocal.
Same here.

[EDIT]: Added graphs for demonstration.

Before running autocal my colour temperature and gamma were way off. Autocal brings it close to D65 but not perfect. See the first attached graph where dashed line -> before autocal and solid line -> after autocal.

Since the Spyder4 is not exactly known for its accuracy, I use HCFR and i1D3 to fine-tune the colour temperature after the autocal.
I found that, after adjusting the RGB Gains based on 100 IRE, the remaining ranges (5 to 95 IRE) also fall nicely in place. This is not surprising since the RGB gains affects all the IREs proportionately. See the second graph which shows the improvement across the whole range.
 

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