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If doing subsequent autocals do you reset the pj back to the init. file or do you just run the new autocal based using the last autocal result?
That depends on what you're trying to achieve. If you're doing a new autocal with the same parameter settings (aperture, cmd etc.) as before, the new results will overwrite the previous ones, so it makes no difference whether you revert to the INIT file before the run. However, given that there are different internal "tables" or "memory banks" for different combinations of the parameters, you would only revert back to the INIT file if you plan to repeat all the combinations.

For example, if you want the correct D65 colour temperature for the entire iris range, you will have to make 4 successive runs (aperture openings 0, -5, -10, -15) without reverting in-between the runs.
 

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@Carbon Ft Print : Are you measuring the results independently from the AutoCal software? I would recommend measuring the results with a different setup (e.g. HCFR or Calman maybe even with a different probe). Also if there are no different Gamma memory banks for e.g. CMD off/on than you should measure a difference already for step1 after step2 has been done.
But if you only use the AutoCal software for checking results than you are probably right for the need of a third run which I would do with the "log" funtion only.

According to what I have read so far and what a representative of JVC in Germany has been mentioned in one of his latest German updates of the AutoCal software documentation, there should be no additional Gamma run necessary if the lens aperture is changing. It looks like only CMD/Lamp mode/filter is using different baselines/memory.
But I would do those AutoCal runs for the setup I am using and not for each possible setup anyway. I do not use the AutoIris due to its (for my personal taste) annoying change in Gamma and color while running in a low lens aperture setting.


I'm analyzing just the verification gamma runs from JVC autocal now. I've already seen Step1 and Step2 having perfect gammas. Did not go back to see if gamma settings are actually stored in memory ... did not think they could be. Agree, I can just do just a log run to find out if gamma is perfect for CMD=0 in Step3, although its been 2 weeks or so since my last autocal and the probe's alignment will be a little different. Again, out of curiosity, the last full autocal had Gamma Autocal (Normal quality, not high 33 step quality) being run with both modes of CMD, Filter and Lamp ... all gammas were near perfect and color temps were excellent.


Too early to do post autocal calibration, yet. I do have calMan commercial, chromapure professional and Light Space to choose from with K10A and PR-670 probes. JVC are imaging specialists ... we'll see how fanatical they are with calibration options they offer through autocal ... even though we have to hunt for them. The more fanatical the better. :)


Anybody know what a full JVC calibration at the factory covers? Has JVC ever answered this? My guess is "we" have to figure this out on our own ... Standard Operating Procedure (SOP). lol.
 

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Okay here what I got...trying to upload bt2020 color profile I'm in the process of connect my projector to router.

Windows 10
Projector Calibration software 6


When I go into setting I get the connection okay icon. After I go into Import/Export tab I get

"No input signal or unsupported format. Check the input signal"

Can anyone explain why I'm getting this error if I have comfirm the okay connection button in the software setting tab.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 

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Manni,


I am using the same connections. In the settings menu when I click to test network it says OK. Then when I click either calibrate or import/export I get this message "no input signal or unsupported format. Check the input signal." What I am doing wrong. I have tried replacing cables, doing resets, etc, re-download the autocal, and still get the same message. Any ideas?
How did you get this issues fixed........I'm getting the same message.
 

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You need to feed the projector with a source during calibration or usage of the tool, play a movie for example.
Yes exactly. Just to clarify, IIRC it needs tinge an HD source (aka not 480p etc). Not that anyone is likely feed that signal type these days but just in case I wanted to make sure to point this out for others down the line that may read these posts.
 

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Thank you so much I been wrecking my brain the last few hours
Don't feel bad--I spent almost an hour yesterday trying to figure why my Spyder5 did not work with AutoCal. Finally it worked and then I realized I still had the football game on that I had previously turned off! I knew this was required--just forgot it :)
 

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Gamma Autocal Does Have Memory Storage Locations for Filter, CMD and Lamp

I thought different memory banks/areas are being used for Gamma when AutoCal is run in regards to CMD/Filter/Lamp mode.
A "master" Gamma, or low-level Gamma, is being used after the AutoCal in each respective mode and all other Gamma's are being calculated by this Gamma.

So, if I run AutoCal for Gamma "Standard" on CMD low, low lamp and no filter, than all other Gamma's for this setup are also being calculated by this Gamma. if I chose a Gamma of 2.4 afterwards, than this Gamma is calibrated in the above mentioned config.
If I change e.g. lamp mode to high, than different memory banks/areas are being used. Therefore I need to re-run Gamma AutoCal.
But they should not affect each other.

Good News. It is confirmed through log testing that Gamma Autocal Does Have Memory Storage Locations for Filter, CMD and Lamp ... all gammas were perfect. Doing full autocals requires multiple Gamma Autocals ... to take advantage of the Gamma Memory Storage locations for CMD, Filter and Lamp. So manni01 instructions should be updated to reflect this latest information for full auto cals. Manni01's less time consuming "user" autocal instructions are good to go as is ... it already takes advantage of Gamma Autocals memory storage locations for CMD, Filter and Lamp. :)


Brightest Luminance Setting Used in the Past is Required for Probe Positioning: To get the best color temperature and gamma and the highest luminance (highest luminance especially for HDR), the probe symbol in autocal must be place on the right side of the JVC distance box only under the brightest conditions you've used in the past. For a full autocal it's: Pic Mode=Nat, Color Profile=Std, Gamma=Norm, Lamp=High, CMD=Off, Filter=Normal, LAmanual=0. If this is not done this way, one can unintentionally clip/saturate luminance in High Lamp mode ... which is disastrous especially for HDR (e.g. 100nits rather than 190 nits).

User4 Sports Example: Say one has done a full autocal, but all future 200 hr autocals will be done just with "user" autocals to save time. Begin the autocal first by placing the probe on the right side of the distance box in the brightest setting you've used in the past. For example, after 200 hrs one sees the picture is a little dimmer and gamma is off a little in User4 Picture Mode. User4 is used for watching Sports. Say one wants to run a single "Gamma + Color" autocal for User4 (i.e. Picture Mode=User4, Color Profile=Std, Gamma=Norm, lamp=low, Filter=Normal, CMD=Low and LAmanual is changing from -11 to -9) ... do this by first positioning the probe to the right hand side of the distance box with the brightest settings used in the past (Pic Mode=Nat, Color Profile=Std, Gamma=Norm, Lamp=High, CMD=Off, Filter=Normal, LAmanual=0), then change back to the afore mentioned settings to run a User4 Gamma + Color autocal. :)


User1 HDR Example: If one wants to run just a "2 Step" HDR "200 hr refresher" autocal for User1 (used for watching HDR movies from a 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray player ), begin the autocal first by placing the probe on the right side of the distance box in the brightest setting you've used in the past. In this example, use the probe distance setup used in the past: Pic Mode=Natural, Color Profile=Std, Gamma=Norm, Lamp=High, CMD=Off, Filter=Normal, LAmanual=0 ... and position the probe to the right hand side of the distance box. After that, run the first step for HDR autocal (Run Gamma + Color Autocal together) with the following setup: Pic Mode=User1, Color Profile=Ref, Gamma=Norm, Lamp=High, CMD=Off, Filter=Wide, LAmanual=0. After that, the second step for HDR autocal is to run just a "Color" Autocal for User1 with this setup: Pic Mode=User1, Color Profile=BT.2020/Custom1 (say one assigns BT.2020 to "Custom1" when BT.2020 was uploaded into the projector), Gamma=Norm, Lamp=High, CMD=Off, Filter=Wide, LAmanual=0. Never pick Gamma=2.4 for autocal ... because it is highly non-linear and inappropriate for a linear, volumetric autocal calibration (top priority for any autocal is to have the projector in its most linear state). As manni01 would say, "That's it". :)

JVC is fanatical about imaging! . :laugh:


EDIT: I included examples for Sports and HDR calibration.
 

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@Carbon Ft Print :


...

According to what I have read so far and what a representative of JVC in Germany has been mentioned in one of his latest German updates of the AutoCal software documentation, there should be no additional Gamma run necessary if the lens aperture is changing. It looks like only CMD/Lamp mode/filter is using different baselines/memory.



...

Have been trying to create a Custom Gamma "D" to address under exposed HDR movies like Batman v Supeman, Star Trek Beyond and Jupiter Ascending. Need the "JVC Custom Gamma D" file format description and an example of an actual Custom Gamma D .jgd file to modify to do this. Is it possible to ask your JVC engineer (who seems to be brilliant ... because that engineer knew about Gamma memory storage locations for CMD, Filter and Lamp) for an example and a description of a JVC Custom Gamma D file? With that file the area where Dolby Vision's "Most Typical Objects are located" can be brightened. It probably needs to be a 99 step .jgd file, 33 steps file for each R, G and B.


IMHO, multiple Gamma Ds are required for viewing the "fluid" array HDR blu ray movies available today ... JVC may be afraid to release another one because it would not "strictly follow an HDR standard". JVC will probably let the customer do this through their customization tools, which is OK. JVC Customers realize multiple Gamma D's are needed because HDR movies are mastered many different ways with multiple standards, multiple Ypeak mastering monitors settings [4000, 1100, 1000 nits] and evolving/fluid HDR director's intents.


Here's an example of a JVC autocal "2.2 Custom Gamma" generated *.jgd file (just a straight 2.2 gamma line ... no modifications to the gamma were done). You'll note it has 11 steps and is repeated 3 times ... once for R, G and B. If you do not have the time, that's ok. I've been trying to do this here in the USA ... but, still waiting for an answer. :)


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Good News. It is confirmed through log testing that Gamma Autocal Does Have Memory Storage Locations for Filter, CMD and Lamp ... all gammas were perfect. Doing full autocals requires multiple Gamma Autocals ... to take advantage of the Gamma Memory Storage locations for CMD, Filter and Lamp. So manni01 instructions should be updated to reflect this latest information for full auto cals. Manni01's less time consuming "user" autocal instructions are good to go as is ... it already takes advantage of Gamma Autocals memory storage locations for CMD, Filter and Lamp. :) ...
Thanks. However I am having a hard time trying to understand what is new about that. I mean, if I am understanding what you are saying above, then that has been well known for a long time. Yet you are posting about this like it is new "news". Therefore I wonder if I am missing something. As a side note, in your examples you list using Natural. I have used Cinema. However I don't think that matters.

Here is the bottom line as I understand it. There are X (8??) total gamma tables internal to the pj based on these factors:
Color Profile, Lamp, CMD, and Filter (where CMD factors are OFF versus low/high)

So something like this internally:
Color Profile | Lamp | CMD
Gamma table 1: "Standard" | Low | OFF
Gamma table 2: "Standard" | High | OFF
Gamma table 3: "Standard" | Low | low or high
Gamma table 4: "Standard" | High | low or high
Gamma table 5: "Reference" | Low | OFF
Gamma table 6: "Reference" | High | OFF
Gamma table 7: "Reference" | Low | low or high
Gamma table 8: "Reference" | High | low or high

Standard is used for Rec709 and Reference for BT.2020.

1. A gamma+color needs to be run for each of those modes, if you care to have a calibrated result for that mode. For example, if you always have CMD off, this greatly limits the amount of work you have to do. Doing this updates the gamma for all gamma settings (2.2, 2.3, 2.4 etc) and is mandatory in my view due to gamma drift and so forth. For instance my gamma was not so great out of the box but excellent at 10 hours at the initial autocal and still excellent after 200 hours. Note that the iris position does not matter at this point, as this is primarily to get the gamma done.

When running this it is critical that the Color Profile be set at either "Standard" (for Rec709 based calibrations that do not use the filter) or "Reference" (for BT2020 calibrations that do use the filter). And Color mode must be set to 6500 (I use this) or another factory preset, but not a custom one like Custom 1. Gamma must also be set to one of the factory presets like "Normal" (I use this) and not a custom one like Custom 1. If you do not follow this step carefully the gamma table and or color calibration will not be fixed/saved!. This is probably the greatest rookie mistake and misunderstanding.

2. Now after you have done the above - to refine this you can run a color-only calibration within each of those combinations, adding the iris setting and any customized color profile (such as Manni's excellent Rec709NF and JVC's add-on "BT2020"). For instance with Rec709NF the gamut is not perfect. So to correct that simply do a Color-only calibration but select Rec709NF as your Color Profile instead of Standard. Optionally set the iris position to where you use it. Note that since this calibration does not involve gamma it is OK to be using a non-standard Color Profile, which is why we can use Rec709NF or "BT2020" here. Make sure tho that for whatever modes you have that you have already done a gamma+color on it. For instance don't run a Color-only calibration for high lamp and CMD off if you haven't previously done a gamma+color calibration for that combination along with the color profile that set the filter to nomal/wide depending on what you want to use.

3. For each bucket of settings that makes up a gamma table, there apparently are 16 more buckets, one for each iris setting. For for example with this one:
Gamma table 1: "Standard" | Low | OFF
Then there are x buckets within that group that contain a color-only calibration for iris positions, like 0-4, 5-10 etc. So that's 3 buckets within each of the 8 buckets so say 24 possible color only calibrations for each given color profile.

Now obviously that's a crazy-high number of calibrations and pointless in my opinion to cover them all, especially when you consider that x hundred hours later they need to be redone as the bulb ages.

One of the greatest pieces of advice from Manni is where he talks about using the user modes. This hugely simplified things for me and finally it all "clicked" for me once I grasped what he was saying about that. For instance I have User presets for the following:
Rec709 low lamp
Rec709 high lamp
BT2020 SDR
BT2020 HDR
Rec709 3D

Each of these has had a gamma+color calibration run. For the Rec709 settings "Standard" was selected as the color profile. And for the BT2020 settings "Reference" was selected. In all cases Gamma and Color were set to Normal. After the gamma+color calibrations were run, I then went into each user profile and did a Color-only calibration, using Rec709NF instead of "Standard" for the Rec709 calibrations, and BT2020 from JVC instead of the "Reference" for the BT2020 calibrations. While doing this I also set the iris to where I was most likely to use it (I do move it around sometimes based on the content).

I then repeated the color only calibration for each mode, but with CMD on low instead of off. This way I can switch CMD on/off as desired based on the show. Also in case you are wondering the 3D preset is identical to Rec707 high lamp except it has the iris at 0 and the color set to a custom color that takes the glasses into account for the calibration.

In any event, I don't think I'm presenting anything new here, except perhaps explaining things in a way that is most intuitive for me to understand. I know I'll be coming back to this thread a few hundred bulb hours from now to remember just what I did in the first place! :D
 

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@lovingdvd: Great post! This is my understanding as well and it has all been well stated and described by Manni, incredible work from him and I am mssing him so much on this thread!
What I personally have not completely understood so far is, why I have to do a standard color profile calibration while doing the Gamma. The AutoCal software allows ro perform a Gamma calibration only, so one could do a Gamma only and a custom color profile only afterwards.
The only reason doing so I can think of is, that the Gamma calibration will be more accurate while doing color at the same time?
@Carbon Ft Print: I do not have contact details of the German JVC representative, there is only a new German JVC AutoCal documentation available from him being provided to German JVC sellers that I am referring to.
 

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Thanks.



1. However I am having a hard time trying to understand what is new about that. I mean, if I am understanding what you are saying above, then that has been well known for a long time. Yet you are posting about this like it is new "news". Therefore I wonder if I am missing something.


As a side note, in your examples you list using Natural. I have used Cinema. However I don't think that matters.

Here is the bottom line as I understand it. There are X (8??) total gamma tables internal to the pj based on these factors:
Color Profile, Lamp, CMD, and Filter (where CMD factors are OFF versus low/high)

So something like this internally:
Color Profile | Lamp | CMD
Gamma table 1: "Standard" | Low | OFF
Gamma table 2: "Standard" | High | OFF
Gamma table 3: "Standard" | Low | low or high
Gamma table 4: "Standard" | High | low or high
Gamma table 5: "Reference" | Low | OFF
Gamma table 6: "Reference" | High | OFF
Gamma table 7: "Reference" | Low | low or high
Gamma table 8: "Reference" | High | low or high

Standard is used for Rec709 and Reference for BT.2020.

1. A gamma+color needs to be run for each of those modes, if you care to have a calibrated result for that mode. For example, if you always have CMD off, this greatly limits the amount of work you have to do. Doing this updates the gamma for all gamma settings (2.2, 2.3, 2.4 etc) and is mandatory in my view due to gamma drift and so forth. For instance my gamma was not so great out of the box but excellent at 10 hours at the initial autocal and still excellent after 200 hours. Note that the iris position does not matter at this point, as this is primarily to get the gamma done.

When running this it is critical that the Color Profile be set at either "Standard" (for Rec709 based calibrations that do not use the filter) or "Reference" (for BT2020 calibrations that do use the filter). And Color mode must be set to 6500 (I use this) or another factory preset, but not a custom one like Custom 1.


2. Gamma must also be set to one of the factory presets like "Normal" (I use this) and not a custom one like Custom 1.


If you do not follow this step carefully the gamma table and or color calibration will not be fixed/saved!. This is probably the greatest rookie mistake and misunderstanding.

2. Now after you have done the above - to refine this you can run a color-only calibration within each of those combinations, adding the iris setting and any customized color profile (such as Manni's excellent Rec709NF and JVC's add-on "BT2020"). For instance with Rec709NF the gamut is not perfect. So to correct that simply do a Color-only calibration but select Rec709NF as your Color Profile instead of Standard. Optionally set the iris position to where you use it. Note that since this calibration does not involve gamma it is OK to be using a non-standard Color Profile, which is why we can use Rec709NF or "BT2020" here. Make sure tho that for whatever modes you have that you have already done a gamma+color on it. For instance don't run a Color-only calibration for high lamp and CMD off if you haven't previously done a gamma+color calibration for that combination along with the color profile that set the filter to nomal/wide depending on what you want to use.

3. For each bucket of settings that makes up a gamma table, there apparently are 16 more buckets, one for each iris setting. For for example with this one:
Gamma table 1: "Standard" | Low | OFF


3. Then there are x buckets within that group that contain a color-only calibration for iris positions, like 0-4, 5-10 etc. So that's 3 buckets within each of the 8 buckets so say 24 possible color only calibrations for each given color profile.

4. Now obviously that's a crazy-high number of calibrations and pointless in my opinion to cover them all, especially when you consider that x hundred hours later they need to be redone as the bulb ages.

5. One of the greatest pieces of advice from Manni is where he talks about using the user modes.


This hugely simplified things for me and finally it all "clicked" for me once I grasped what he was saying about that. For instance I have User presets for the following:
Rec709 low lamp
Rec709 high lamp
BT2020 SDR
BT2020 HDR
Rec709 3D

Each of these has had a gamma+color calibration run. For the Rec709 settings "Standard" was selected as the color profile. And for the BT2020 settings "Reference" was selected. In all cases Gamma and Color were set to Normal. After the gamma+color calibrations were run, I then went into each user profile and did a Color-only calibration, using Rec709NF instead of "Standard" for the Rec709 calibrations, and BT2020 from JVC instead of the "Reference" for the BT2020 calibrations. While doing this I also set the iris to where I was most likely to use it (I do move it around sometimes based on the content).

I then repeated the color only calibration for each mode, but with CMD on low instead of off. This way I can switch CMD on/off as desired based on the show. Also in case you are wondering the 3D preset is identical to Rec707 high lamp except it has the iris at 0 and the color set to a custom color that takes the glasses into account for the calibration.

In any event, I don't think I'm presenting anything new here, except perhaps explaining things in a way that is most intuitive for me to understand. I know I'll be coming back to this thread a few hundred bulb hours from now to remember just what I did in the first place! :D


Nice to know someone else has the big picture. :) Responses to above Blue underlined statements below.

1. I relied heavily on post#2 to do my first 2 full autocals. Nothing from Manni01 post#2 suggested running multiple Gamma Autocals were required for a Full Autocal ... understandable ... hard to explain everything ... given all the posts generated ... let alone updating it ... let alone finding it again in a sea of new posts. That's why I posted this: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...-x5000-rs400-rs500-rs600-36.html#post48110089 . I did my own analysis and concluded Gamma Autocal had memory locations for CMD, Filter and Lamp for full autocal. Obviously, this was new to moi, not to everyone else. That's why I posted this and recommended Post #2 for full autocals be updated: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...-x5000-rs400-rs500-rs600-37.html#post48179241. So, if everyone but moi understood this, why did not anyone ask for Post#2 to updated? Has anyone else done a full autocal?:eek:

2. There is a difference between using a Custom gamma when it refers to a standard gamma such as 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 versus using those Custom Gammas generated by autocal ... which are non-std tweaked gammas. I would think when autocal lists custom gammas which refer to std gammas would be ok for autocal, why else would autocal allow custom gammas to be selectable? This gets more interesting ... there are only 3 of these Autocal generated "Custom Gammas" that can be stored ... those can be assigned to Custom1 thru Custom3 ... I'd would guess those would be stored in physically different memory locations than "Custom Gamuts" produced by autocal which are (also) called Custom1 thru Custom6 ... lol. Has anyone actually tested this? If not, I can try that on my nth full autocal. :D Maybe we should get an English copy link to the detail JVC autocal instructions that our friends in Germany refer to ... might save in many bulb hours. :) Anybody have a English version link to the most recently updated autocal instructions? :)


3. There are four LA Iris "buckets" with four positions in each "bucket" : 0-3, 4-7, 8-11, 12-15. ;)


4. And to think I've done this already 3 times in the last month with more to come :eek:


5. Actually, my old friend Harry did this first ... then informed manni01 about it. ;) I tried to find Harry's post and emails about Gamma ... futile exercise ... I do remember that post, but only realized its significance after I figured out what was messing up my full autocals ... not running multiple Gamma autocals. ;)


I was never interested in doing just "User" Autocals. I'm a tweaker and I spelunk between different color spaces and different image sizes all the time.


Good write up. Later. :D
 

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Can you advise me. Which mode do you think matches to view the movie?
Natural, Standard, 6500, 2.2, close the aperture down to -6 or -7. Or choose THX mode?
Screen width 2.4 meters, matte white 1. The distance of 3.5 meters to the projector. Projector JVC 7000.
 

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Can you advise me. Which mode do you think matches to view the movie?
Natural, Standard, 6500, 2.2, close the aperture down to -6 or -7. Or choose THX mode?
Screen width 2.4 meters, matte white 1. The distance of 3.5 meters to the projector. Projector JVC 7000.


You'll find Nat/Std/6500/2.2 "the sweet spot" of the JVC projector. It will be slightly brighter than THX. Start with CR=0 and BR=0 ... raise BR to +1 or +2 if one cannot see dark image detail.


THX will likely have the most accurate colors of the 2 ... out of the box. More accurate colors will result in a slightly dimmer picture. Pick the one you like most.


Don't forget to try Cinema/Cinema2/6500k/2.3. This is the "movie" mode for those that like richer colors while still having great memory colors and skin tones. Colors will be more saturated to be closer what one would see in the commercial movie theaters ... but slightly dimmer, but see for yourself if you like it. Need CR-3, BR=0 or 1 for this mode. CR=contrast, BR=Brightness. I use this mode most often, but calibrated.


If you have light colored walls, ceiling and floor, the brightest mode will look the best ... because you'll have elevated black levels due to light reflections from light color surfaces to the screen ... and the only way to counteract this is with a brighter image which will cause the eye's pupil to constrict (smaller) making the brain think the blacks are darker.

If one has dark or black colored reflection surfaces (walls, ceiling ect.), then try THX or Cinema.

It's all a matter of what you like. Only use reference grade blu ray movies to make comparisons ... otherwise one will not know if any issue one sees is with the movie content itself or with the projector settings. Many threads on this topic in AVSforum.com. Lots of different levels of quality with Blu Ray movies for many reasons.

Go to JVC owners thread for more questions. This is the JVC autocal thread. They will be happy to offer suggestions to your non-autocal questions. :)

Good Luck. :)
 

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You'll find Nat/Std/6500/2.2 "the sweet spot" of the JVC projector. It will be slightly brighter than THX. Start with CR=0 and BR=0 ... raise BR to +1 or +2 if one cannot see dark image detail.


THX will likely have the most accurate colors of the 2 ... out of the box. More accurate colors will result in a slightly dimmer picture. Pick the one you like most.


Don't forget to try Cinema/Cinema2/6500k/2.3. This is the "movie" mode for those that like richer colors while still having great memory colors and skin tones. Colors will be more saturated to be closer what one would see in the commercial movie theaters ... but slightly dimmer, but see for yourself if you like it. Need CR-3, BR=0 or 1 for this mode. CR=contrast, BR=Brightness. I use this mode most often, but calibrated.


If you have light colored walls, ceiling and floor, the brightest mode will look the best ... because you'll have elevated black levels due to light reflections from light color surfaces to the screen ... and the only way to counteract this is with a brighter image which will cause the eye's pupil to constrict (smaller) making the brain think the blacks are darker.

If one has dark or black colored reflection surfaces (walls, ceiling ect.), then try THX or Cinema.

It's all a matter of what you like. Only use reference grade blu ray movies to make comparisons ... otherwise one will not know if any issue one sees is with the movie content itself or with the projector settings. Many threads on this topic in AVSforum.com. Lots of different levels of quality with Blu Ray movies for many reasons.

Go to JVC owners thread for more questions. This is the JVC autocal thread. They will be happy to offer suggestions to your non-autocal questions. :)

Good Luck. :)
Brightness and contrast must be adjusted before or after autocal?
 

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Brightness and contrast must be adjusted before or after autocal?
Autocal ignores these settings. You will need to adjust them after autocal.
 
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