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I see also why the suggestion to start the calibration with the meter positioned towards the front/right of the distance box. As you start the calibration with the Iris fully open, and progressively calibrate at less open settings through the range, the effective meter position moves away rom the meter with each, more constricted, iris setting. The physical position of the meter doesn't move, but because there is less light entering the meter it thinks it's further away. Starting with the open iris in the front of the box means all other iris settings will also lie within the box without having to change the meter physical meter position.
The right side of the distance box corresponds to the side where the meter is physically closest to the projector. This ensure that the meter gets the most light for the most accurate readings, without getting into the saturation region where the readings would no longer be correct.

Not sure if others do it, but I physically move the meter closer as the iris gets closed down, to keep it near the right side of the distance box.
 

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My rookie error for everyone's amusement.

I spent two hours moving the meter from one side of the lounge to the other. No matter what I did I couldn't seem to get it to change its position in the distance box.

Finally I had an epiphany.

Turn the bloody thing around so the correct side is facing the projector. Would have thought taking the lens cap off should have indicated that this was probably the more important side of the meter but no. Thick as a brick me.

Amazing how well it worked then. Go ahead. Belly laugh at my expense.

I see also why the suggestion to start the calibration with the meter positioned towards the front/right of the distance box. As you start the calibration with the Iris fully open, and progressively calibrate at less open settings through the range, the effective meter position moves away rom the meter with each, more constricted, iris setting. The physical position of the meter doesn't move, but because there is less light entering the meter it thinks it's further away. Starting with the open iris in the front of the box means all other iris settings will also lie within the box without having to change the meter physical meter position.

There's a reason for everything.
You had me laugh :)

I must admit I did the same thing yesterday when I first tried my Spyder5. I too was really convinced that the Spyder's side well protected by a cap was the sensor's side...??? though it only took me a few minutes to notice and correct my mistake since the readings I got were making no sense at all in Chromapure...
 

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When when opening the iris up all the way. Should I be in high lamp mode as well? Or low lamp?

Are we talking about putting this meter within inches of the lens or more so feet?
 

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When when opening the iris up all the way. Should I be in high lamp mode as well? Or low lamp?
Use the same lamp mode as you would when watching movies. You can also calibrate both high lamp and low lamp as the results are stored separately.
Are we talking about putting this meter within inches of the lens or more so feet?
I would start at around 5 ft and then go by the distance box in the software.
 

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Also should I set the screen size to 60? I read that 60 is the lowest it can go and do not adjust it to 133 inches.

And viewing distance . Should this be accurate or left alone?
 

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Thanks for your help
Dom . Will check that in a bit.
Going to buy another tripod so I can try today. The links are messing up on mobile today for some reason
 

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Must have something wrong once agajn
1) Make sure you are using a standard color profile (such as Natural) and not a custom profile when you run gamma+color
2) Make sure you are using a standard gamma as well (such as normal) and not a custom gamma
3) Make sure you turn off all processing (like CMD etc.)
4) Typically, the shadow of the Spyder falls smack in the middle of the screen when it is positioned correctly, not sure if that is happening in your case.
5) And most IMPORTANTLY make sure you save your "init" file somewhere safe.
 

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1) Make sure you are using a standard color profile (such as Natural) and not a custom profile when you run gamma+color
2) Make sure you are using a standard gamma as well (such as normal) and not a custom gamma
3) Make sure you turn off all processing (like CMD etc.)
4) Typically, the shadow of the Spyder falls smack in the middle of the screen when it is positioned correctly, not sure if that is happening in your case.
5) And most IMPORTANTLY make sure you save your "init" file somewhere safe.
For picture mode I am using user 1 the rec 709 file

For color profile i switched it to normal

color temp 6500

Gamma normal

The spyder does not fall in the center of the screen is that maybe because my projector is not dead center of the screen? I saved one time on accident and reloaded the int file and it took a while. Something is way off on the last one ill post recent
 

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For picture mode I am using user 1 the rec 709 file

For color profile i switched it to normal

color temp 6500

Gamma normal

The spyder does not fall in the center of the screen is that maybe because my projector is not dead center of the screen? I saved one time on accident and reloaded the int file and it took a while. Something is way off on the last one ill post recent
Change picture mode to "natural" and Color profile to "standard" and you should be good to go. After you have run the initial color+gamma autocal session, and saved it to the projector, you can then run a color only autocal of the manni's rec709NF.
 

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Change picture mode to "natural" and Color profile to "standard" and you should be good to go. After you have run the initial color+gamma autocal session, and saved it to the projector, you can then run a color only autocal of the manni's rec709NF.
Ok i think this is where i might be getting confused.

Lets make sure this is all right first
On my actual projector settings Should i have the same exact settings in the software? Because on my actual projector unit i am selecting user 1 (the rec709 file as well)

So for instance In my actual projector settings Picture mode to Natural and color profile to standard as well?

From my understanding was to load the rec709 file from manni then do the calibration. So what I was doing the whole time was loading it up and trying to calibrate it from there
 

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Ok i think this is where i might be getting confused.

Lets make sure this is all right first
On my actual projector settings Should i have the same exact settings in the software? Because on my actual projector unit i am selecting user 1 (the rec709 file as well)

So for instance In my actual projector settings Picture mode to Natural and color profile to standard as well?

From my understanding was to load the rec709 file from manni then do the calibration. So what I was doing the whole time was loading it up and trying to calibrate it from there
I don't think it will make a difference what selections you have in the projector as long as you make the right selections in the autocal software. But just to be sure, it won't hurt to have the same selections in both places. As for loading Manni's custom profile, you cannot use that profile to run a gamma calibration; you can only run a color calibration on it AFTER you run the gamma+color calibration on the standard profile.
 
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