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Thanks, ok so generally does the order of things go like this?

1. Let X750R warm up for at least 45 minutes.

2. Turn off auto-iris & open iris up fully.

2. Use JVC Calibration software/Spyder5Pro to run Gamma+Color adjustments & save Gamma & Color adjustments.

3. Use i1D3 & HCFR to do off-screen measures and fine adjustments of contrast, brightness & greyscale only (leaving Gamma & Color as was done and set by JVC software)
Make sure you turn off all processing in addition to turning off auto iris. Before you press "start" go back and check the position of the Spyder within the "box," You want to make sure it is as close as possible to the right side without going outside.

After your gamma and color autocal, make sure you do a color only calibration of the custom color profiles you intend to use.

I supposed you can do greyscale after the autocal, but I have found that just adjusting 100% white to D6500--using only the Gains control---is very effective and it tracks well when checked with my i1D3 and Chromapure.
And does all of this provide a better picture then than just doing off screen calibration using i1d3 and HCFR?
 

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And does all of this provide a better picture then than just doing off screen calibration using i1d3 and HCFR?
There are only limited controls you can do with the projector's user interface. Unlike the older JVCs, you can't adjust the 12-pt grey scale/gamma without using JVC's software.
 

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There has been a lot of help here. I myself needed everyone but I suggest you start trying first to get used to what is going on in the process and then ask questions. Everyone guided me and now I know what I am doing (sort of ) hah
 

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There has been a lot of help here. I myself needed everyone but I suggest you start trying first to get used to what is going on in the process and then ask questions. Everyone guided me and now I know what I am doing (sort of ) hah
Ok, good advice. So i've been going through the intiial setup and have the meter in place, etc.

Do I need to worry about setting contrast/brightness before doing the gamma/color calibration run or do I set that afterwards? Should I be setting contrast & brightness to zero before calibration or does it matter?

Also, I presume I'll need to calibrate gamma/color for each of the following combinations for Rec709 to start (I'll worry about BT2020 later):

1. Daytime 16:9 aspect ratio
2. Daytime 2.35:1 aspect ratio
3. Night 16:9 aspect ratio
4. Night 2.35:1 aspect ratio

How is it that I should open the iris all the way open before the calibration? I would thin kthat the iris setting would affect gamma and color, no?
 

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You only need to run the gamma once, use one of the built in profiles like Standard (see post 2).

Then you run a color only calibration for whatever Iris and CMD settings you plan to use.
 

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Contrast and brightness are to be done after the calibration of the gamma and color I believe.

Question about the 2020 settings for Jvc . Once I load the 2020 profile does that adjust all the settings Jvc has recommended for hdr 4K or do I still need to adjust them as specified in there manual
 

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You only need to run the gamma once, use one of the built in profiles like Standard (see post 2).

Then you run a color only calibration for whatever Iris and CMD settings you plan to use.
What about lamp modes? Once for high and once for low?
 

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You only need to run the gamma once, use one of the built in profiles like Standard (see post 2).

Then you run a color only calibration for whatever Iris and CMD settings you plan to use.
Here's what I've done so far following the instructions on pg 2:

1. Imported the Rec-709NF profile from that post.

2. Did a Gamma+Color calibration on a Picture Mode I called "Daytime" used for daytime viewing (some light in room). I did this of course during the day time :) Color temp chosen was 6500K and Gamma chosen was Normal. Iris was fully open, eshift was on, but CMD and Motion Enhance was Off. Brightness and Contrast at zero (as well as Color and Tint).

Now where I'm lost (in continuing my Daytime Picture Mode calibration) is on the phase 2 steps of running a color only calibration for each iris stop at 5 intervals and then with CMD on going back up.

Will the JVC once calibrated remember all of those color details for each iris position and CMD setting?

Also, what of all this do I need to repeat again once it's dark to calibrate my night time main picture modes?

Finally, do I also need to do this all again for 2.35:1 aspect ratio (all so far has been done in 16:9), as I have a 2.35:1 screen.


THanks!
 

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So do I need to run separate autocals for each lens control setting? (2.35:1, 16:9, etc.)? If so, colour only or gamma too?
Lens control does not directly affect the calibration, unless you are using different settings of the iris, or high/normal lamp power, to compensate for the luminance change when you zoom in/out.
 

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So do I need to run separate autocals for each lens control setting? (2.35:1, 16:9, etc.)? If so, colour only or gamma too?
You should only need to run one gamma cal per user mode, but you'll want to run a color one for each lamp setting at a minimum, and better yet for the iris setting you will use.
 

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Lens control does not directly affect the calibration, unless you are using different settings of the iris, or high/normal lamp power, to compensate for the luminance change when you zoom in/out.
Ok, so let's see if I can get this straight:

My two main settings I use is as follows:
1. For all broadcast HD programming & TV series:
Lamp Mode = Low
Lens @ 16:9
DI @ -11
User Mode = Custom 1
Color = 6500K
CMD = Off
So for this mode I've run Gamma+Color once using the Gamma=Normal setting.
Then I ran Color only again using the Rec-709NF setting downloaded here.

2. For all wide-screen movie viewing:
Lamp Mode = Low
Lens @ 2.35:1
DI @ -7
User Mode = Custom 2
CMD = Off
So for this mode should I run a separate Gamma+Color using a Gamma of a different setting other than "Normal" since I used it above?
Should I also use a different setting for Color instead of 6500K so I don't overwrite the one used for the #1 scenario above?
Also, should I then just run the Color only again using the same Rec-709NF setting downloaded here or should I use some other one?
 

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So for this mode should I run a separate Gamma+Color using a Gamma of a different setting other than "Normal" since I used it above?
Should I also use a different setting for Color instead of 6500K so I don't overwrite the one used for the #1 scenario above?
Also, should I then just run the Color only again using the same Rec-709NF setting downloaded here or should I use some other one?
You only need to run Gamma cal once. You run it for one of the standard, built in Gamma settings and the autocal updates the baseline gamma table. All other gamma options use the baseline table and are relative to that, so they are also all corrected from one gamma autocal.

After that you need only run a color autocal for the Iris, CMD, Lamp modes you use. So basically all you should have to do is run a Gamma+Color autocal with the iris at 0 (so you can accurately measure the gamma). Then run Color only autocals at -7 and -11 with your preferred color profile.

There's no need to use different user settings for different iris settings, since they go into different "slots" in the internal CMS.
 

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You only need to run Gamma cal once. You run it for one of the standard, built in Gamma settings and the autocal updates the baseline gamma table. All other gamma options use the baseline table and are relative to that, so they are also all corrected from one gamma autocal.

After that you need only run a color autocal for the Iris, CMD, Lamp modes you use. So basically all you should have to do is run a Gamma+Color autocal with the iris at 0 (so you can accurately measure the gamma). Then run Color only autocals at -7 and -11 with your preferred color profile.

There's no need to use different user settings for different iris settings, since they go into different "slots" in the internal CMS.
Great, thank you.

So if I also wanted to calibrate for HDR/BT2020, would I still not need to run the gamma cal for Gamma D since it would also be calibrated from the initial baseline gamma autocal? So I'd only need to run a color only for BT2020 color mode (loaded from JVC site)?
 

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Great, thank you.

So if I also wanted to calibrate for HDR/BT2020, would I still not need to run the gamma cal for Gamma D since it would also be calibrated from the initial baseline gamma autocal? So I'd only need to run a color only for BT2020 color mode (loaded from JVC site)?
If you ran your first autocal in low lamp and you intend to watch HDR in high lamp, then yes, you have to run a gamma autocal for again. Don't forget, when you are setting up HDR, you have to do the gamma autocal with the Reference color profile and then run a color only autocal with the BT2020 color profile.
 

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If you ran your first autocal in low lamp and you intend to watch HDR in high lamp, then yes, you have to run a gamma autocal for again. Don't forget, when you are setting up HDR, you have to do the gamma autocal with the Reference color profile and then run a color only autocal with the BT2020 color profile.
And I would run that gamma autocal in high lamp with Gamma D, not Gamma = Normal, right? so that it doesn't overwrite the gamma = Normal I ran gamma autocal for in low lamp?
So basically gamma autocal as:
High Lamp
Gamma D
Color Profile = Reference
Then
color only autocal as:
High Lamp
Gamma D
Color Profile = BT2020
?

So separate question: what would I need to do if I wanted to instead calibrate for SDR/BT2020 (just to get ready for the Oppo 203 feature to come in once ready)
As it would be in low lamp for SDR/BT2020, would I just need to then run color only autocal at the Iris setting I wanted with BT2020?
 

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And I would run that gamma autocal in high lamp with Gamma D, not Gamma = Normal, right? so that it doesn't overwrite the gamma = Normal I ran gamma autocal for in low lamp?
So basically gamma autocal as:
High Lamp
Gamma D
Color Profile = Reference
Then
color only autocal as:
High Lamp
Gamma D
Color Profile = BT2020
?

So separate question: what would I need to do if I wanted to instead calibrate for SDR/BT2020 (just to get ready for the Oppo 203 feature to come in once ready)
As it would be in low lamp for SDR/BT2020, would I just need to then run color only autocal at the Iris setting I wanted with BT2020?
The only reason why you have to run gamma again is because you are changing lamp mode (low to high). Gamma D cannot be calibrated as the Projector would have to be in HDR Mode with HDR patterns, so you want to use one of the preset power gamma (normal or 2.4---I use normal). After running your gamma autocal in high lamp + reference color profile + custom color temp at 6500 + normal gamma, just run a color only autocal with the BT2020 color profile. After that, you have to manually select Gamma D and make the JVC-recommended entries in the Picture Tone (12) Dark Gamma (5) Light Gamma (4). Once you save those settings, they should automatically be activated whenever you watch a UHD disc with HDR.

For SDR BT2020: Like you said, just run a color only autocal for the Iris setting you plan on using. One thing I find useful is to make sure you use different custom color temps (say custom color temp 1 for HDR and custom color temp 2 for SDR), so they can be adjusted independently if you plan on using a second meter to fine tune autocal.
 

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Hello together!
I own a JVC X7000. My gamma is broken down to 1.7.
I use JVC Autocal and Spyder 5 to correct only the gamma.
Autocal indicates that the gamma has been corrected perfectly.
A subsequent control measurement shows, however, that this is not the case.
I made the control measurement with 3 different sensors, with the same result.
I've also done Autocal several times, but unfortunately without getting a better gamma.
The projector is in a living room with white walls. Could this lead to problems?
Could the Spyder be broken?

I already have all the Notes I could find in the Internet.
I hope here someone can help me.

Thx
greetings


Did you ever fix this? Looks like you have too much brightness from your results. 2.2 to 1.7 is getting brighter. The blu is the brightest. What are all your settings? Is Input: Std/444 or are you in "enhance". Is your signal generator a pc (data levels 0 to 255) or a real video (video levels 16-235) signal generator? If you are driving the color test patches from a pc into the jvc, then you need your input to be enhance/rgb ... I usually put both in auto so I don't screw up. If you are still having issues, post back.


Not sure what projector screen you have, but I turn "Screen Adjust" = ON and plug in 073 for a Stewart FireHawk SST screen after jvc autocal. The screen is about 5 nits darker (out of 110 nits) and the color temperature/balance looks better. Give that a try. Screen codes: http://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/projector/screen/


Problem with white walls is that they ruin the accuracy of good color meters ... due to all the reflective light coming in off the walls and back into the screen. With the JVC setup, there is little chance of reflective light ruining the calibration ... because JVC's direct calibration technique is reading 100% signal intensity white at around 10,000 nits, depending where you place the probe ... and reflective light into the spyder5 lens is minimal to non-existent. (FYI: The spyder5 probe dynamic range is 10,000+ for the wht pt and 0.04 for the blk pt.) The "white reflective surfaces" problem will come in place with your more accurate probes after the JVC calibration. With the JVC projector, maybe you'll read 100% signal intensity white as 50 to 100 nits, not 10,000 nits as in JVC autocal. Then the reflective color coming from the bright walls, furniture, ect into the projector screen can have an impact. With bright color walls, ceiling and floors, your best bet is to have a really bright picture. That way the bright images on the screen will trick the eye into seeing deeper blacks ... it has to do with the chemistry between eye's pupil constricting (getting smaller) and how the brain "remembers" what black should look like.


Let the JVC autocal stand as it is. Not sure what your color balance gains and offsets are, but only use single digit negative numbers for gains (like (-6,-9,0) for white point ) so you don't adversely affect linearity. You can use whatever for offsets ... no impact on linearity at all.


Good Luck! :)
 
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