Guess I'll answer my own question, so others are able to get into their RS10. RS20 (and others, pre the square body) projectors to fix things like the magenta stripe issue, etc.
These projectors are all out of warrany, but doing this is totally up to you and at your own risk. If you don't have experience with delicate electronics, you may want to try your skills on something worthless first... Unplug it first!!!
Getting the top cover off is non-trivial due to a pair of snaps on the left and right side, as well as an arrangemrnt in the front lip of the cover, where it meets the panel that contains the lens ring.
First. Remove the lamp cover. After removing the lamp cover, there are 5 screws that must be removed. Two screws on the left and right sides of the cover near the front lens panel and three screws on the bottom that have arrows molded into the cover near them. All phillips, and a magnetic screwdriver is a great idea. On the bottom, there are two screws, one on each side near the back of the projector, and one in the center, more towards the back of the projector. Again, they have little symbols molded near them. Flip the projector over on something soft, like a carpet, for the bottom screws, so you don't scratch the top up... Note there are NO SCREWS in the bottom holes up at the front of the projector. Those are stand-offs that have screws on the inside of the projector!
The gold trim running down the sides that separates the top cover from the bottom is actually made of two separate inserts that are held in by the mating of the top and bottom covers. Once you pop the top cover. These lift (fall?) out. One of them has the rear IR sensor in it that will need to be unplugged from its harness to be removed.
To pop the top cover, put some vertical pressure on the rear of it, where the lamp cover goes. You'll see that you can lift it a little. As you're putting pressure on it, push in on the top cover a little away from the middle of the side, in both directions, down near the gold stripe, to push in the snaps of the top cover. There are two snaps on each side. The pressure should be put on the edge of the top cover, off from the middle of the side. This should make it easier to release the snap edge from the ridges molded in the bottom cover, and the top cover should pop. Do the same for the other side. See the pics in the next post to understand where the snaps are...
Note that if you're doing it wrong, the cover WILL feel like there are still screws holding it on. If you took out 5 screws, you got them all... concentrate on the snaps in the middle of the sides.
Once the sides are popped, you can lift the cover from the rear while pulling it away from the front of the projector. As you lift, you'll get to the point where the front clips release. And pop... you'll have it off. If you lift too far without pulling the cover back, you might snap off the snaps, do it carefully. And with enough backward force.
Note, there is a harness that connects to the buttons on the top cover, so don't just pull the cover away from the projector. You will need to unscrew a grounding screw and then unplug the harness. The harnesses are all delicate. So take your time and take care.
The first time I took the cover off, I used brute force and ignorance, yanking up on it from the rear while pulling towards the rear. It came off with a loud bunch of pops. NOT a recommended method, even though I didn't break any of the snaps... I did break one the second time, and slowed down...
I'll try and attach some pictures...
Regards,
- Melifluonze
