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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The goal of this thread is to provide a central point for beginner's tips and tricks, Focusing mainly on the latest 2014 JVC projectors (X500, X700, X900, RS4910, RS57, RS6710).


Please add your own suggestions as replies and I will update this post as needed.

Manuals
  1. RS4910, RS6710 Manual: http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/manual/DLA-RS4910_6710_Operator_Man_2014.pdf
  2. Remote Control over RS-232 and LAN: http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/manual/RS_Model_2014_RS232_Command_Spec.pdf

Recommended reviews and articles
  1. HD Fever (in french, please use Chrome or Google translate if you can't read the language)


Calibration tips & tricks

  1. Use the REC709 test calibration disc (free) in order to calibrate your image without the use of a hardware meter. It should provide a good starting point. Full details are available here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration (thanks, cardoski)
  2. The following initial settings were recommended by Kris Deering ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1486011/new-range-jvc-2014/3360#post_24226082 ):

    "I set them up for user 1, standard color profile with all defaults for picture set to 0. Set the gamma to custom and 2.3 or 2.4 (depending on your preference for your room type). I then adjust the dark level in the gamma screen up to show digital 18 if you don't see it already (use basic pattern on the AVS 709 disc). I suggest Auto 2 for the dynamic iris and setting the manual iris to achieve your desired white level before changing to Auto 2. For grayscale I would suggest the 6500 preset. Everything else (e-shift, CMD, etc) is all up to your taste."


Firmware issues and updates
  1. The latest firmware for the 2013 JVC models are available here:

    http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/soft/MK6Update20140107_Pro_bundled.zip


    In order to update your projector's firmware, you'll need an RS232 connection from a computer to the projector. The following two items have been reported to work well with the firmware update by many forum users, and they are also the items used by JVC in their upgrade manual:



    USB-->RS232 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-USA-19HS-Hi-Speed-Supports/dp/B0000VYJRY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391013465&sr=8-1&keywords=tripplite+serial+adapter


    RS232 Female-Female cable: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Modem-Cable-P450-006/dp/B000067SCH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391013637&sr=8-1&keywords=tripp+lite+null+modem+cable

    (thanks, cardoski)



Lens, Focus and Sharpness tips & tricks

  1. The JVC models offer an image pattern to use while checking focus, zoom and lens shift. However, in the 2013 models, the e-shift is always engaged. e-shift is a technology that inherently "defuses" the image in order to give a more natural look without noticing the pixel structure. For setting focus, you are better off with having the e-shift turned off. How to solve this? Use a test pattern from one of the sources, such as the REC709 test disc linked above. You can then turn off the e-shift completely during setup. **TBD** find menu item that removes e-shift.
  2. Here are two examples of panel convergence. Upon close inspection, you can see pinkish and greenish lines close to the actual line.


  3. Useful information regarding alignment:
    http://www.avsforum.com/t/1458735/alignment-issues-with-sony-hw50es#post_22978766
    http://www.avsforum.com/t/1430236/offical-jvc-dla-rs4810-owners-thread/1080#post_23260671

    (thanks, scottJ)

3D

  1. The JVC 3D glasses have one button for on/off. One blink means the glasses are ON. Two blinks mean the glasses are OFF.
  2. For 2D viewing clear motion drive (basically a frame interpolation algorithm) is best set to low (or off if you really don't like this feature). HIGH will make everything seem like a soap opera. However, for 3D vieweing, I find HIGH to be a better setting that greatly reduces headaches. Watching The Hobbit, it felt almost as good as watching the HFR version in the Theater (except for the occasional smearing that is bound to happen).
  3. 2D to 3D conversion is not so great, but it's actually not that bad for live performances. I tried out STING live in Berlin with the conversion on and it looked great.
  4. Tip for people who use VLC from a Mac like me (until I can get my projector screen installed it's sitting next to my computer and projects to a wall
    ): F and G change audio sync, which you'll NEED if you don't have audio return channel in the change with a Receiver. I needed +250ms (I also have a darbee in the chain). CMD+ALT+right or left arrow keys move the film in short increments, CMD+ALT+SHIFT+arrow keys more it about 10 minutes. This is really useful when watching Side-By-Side 3D content, it's impossible to use the mouse.

CIH Screen tips
  1. Do you happen to have a 2.35 CIH screen and want to use it to watch your movies without an anamorphic lens? Great, the projector has motorized zoom. However, the vast majority of films are actually shot in 2.4 format. This creates a really annoying tiny black strip on the top and bottom of the image. In order to solve this, go to the Input Signal --> Mask, and choose a custom masking that completely crops a few pixels from the sides of the projected image. Now the image will fill your ENTIRE screen.

e-Shift (MPC)
  1. This might not work the same for all movies, but I have found that for older movies that were transfered from film to bluray (The Fifth Element is a great example), you tend to clearly see the artifacts in the image on a REALLY big screen(140" 2.35 in my case). By setting MPC to very high smoothing (around 80) and a decent amount of noise reduction, I am able to get a really clean image. It's ofcourse a bit softer and shout not be used as the default for all movies, but at least it is no longer grainy like in the original content.
 

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 http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration


Free calibration Disc, very handy.

I have an eye1display calibration meter I used and the Rec 709 disc has patterns to use with calibration software. I use HCFR which is free and comes with an excellent tutorial.As the bulb ages re calibration is a good idea. It does require the investment of a meter, but with the free software and the ability to calibrate as often as you like it is good value. Settings will only be good to the individual so I will not bother yo post them. But for a good basic calibration the Rec709 disc has a tutorial and patterns for non meter calibration.
 

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I'll have my RS57 by Friday (well..supposedly anyway).


I'll need to check it out and a newbie version of what to check and how could be very useful (even for me).


Off the top of my head I"ll want to check:


1. Convergence. - How? I seem to remember there's a convergence pattern in the service section of my current RS55. For later models, like this year's, didn't they move that into the more accessible user menu?

2. Focus - check for lens quality/focus. Now that this year's JVC has the stupid default to E-shift when using their focus menu, does anyone have tips on how to focus?


Thanks.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness  /t/1514184/jvc-newbies-tips-tricks-and-recommendations-thread#post_24285440


I'll have my RS57 by Friday (well..supposedly anyway).


I'll need to check it out and a newbie version of what to check and how could be very useful (even for me).


Off the top of my head I"ll want to check:


1. Convergence. - How? I seem to remember there's a convergence pattern in the service section of my current RS55. For later models, like this year's, didn't they move that into the more accessible user menu?

2. Focus - check for lens quality/focus. Now that this year's JVC has the stupid default to E-shift when using their focus menu, does anyone have tips on how to focus?


Thanks.

Those are the two main things to check, convergence and focus uniformity. Just don't expect perfect convergence.It never happens with a three panel projector.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness  /t/1514184/jvc-newbies-tips-tricks-and-recommendations-thread#post_24285440


I'll have my RS57 by Friday (well..supposedly anyway).


I'll need to check it out and a newbie version of what to check and how could be very useful (even for me).


Off the top of my head I"ll want to check:


1. Convergence. - How? I seem to remember there's a convergence pattern in the service section of my current RS55. For later models, like this year's, didn't they move that into the more accessible user menu?

2. Focus - check for lens quality/focus. Now that this year's JVC has the stupid default to E-shift when using their focus menu, does anyone have tips on how to focus?


Thanks.

When aligning convergence I found it helpful to get up close to the screen. I adjusted between red and blue a bit at a time with the fine adjustment. You can isolate sections if a particular section is not lining up. Overall mine was good and needed little adjustment .


For focus I used the Rec709 disc I linked above, I turned off the internal focus pattern then the E-shift and used the focus pattern from Rec709 disc.
 

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I noticed on my particular RS57 that with no pixel adjustment at all my convergence was a little bit off. When I used the internal convergence pattern it looked like there was some slight scaling going on. It looked like an extra line of blue and red was bleeding onto another line but very lightly. After using the pixel adjust it became fully solid with no bleeding. I've seen this on an Epson 5020 as well, but only on one sample.


Anyone else notice this?
 

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The two attached pictures show what I believe to be misconvergence of my rs57 unit. On the first picture you can see that the on the vertical green line there is a greenish hue line offset to the right of the vertical line. On the horizontal green line you see a blueish hue line shifted above the green line.


Looking at the focus image you can see a pinkish or Magenta line offset above the white border of the focus box.


Are these the types of aberrations I should be addressing w the pixel adjustments?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by sk576c  /t/1514184/jvc-newbies-tips-tricks-and-recommendations-thread#post_24286414






The two attached pictures show what I believe to be misconvergence of my rs57 unit. On the first picture you can see that the on the vertical green line there is a greenish hue line offset to the right of the vertical line. On the horizontal green line you see a blueish hue line shifted above the green line.


Looking at the focus image you can see a pinkish or Magenta line offset above the white border of the focus box.


Are these the types of aberrations I should be addressing w the pixel adjustments?

I'm pretty sure that's it. I think I got really lucky with my RS4910 unit, I couldn't find such clear colorful lines even upon close inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cardoski  /t/1514184/jvc-newbies-tips-tricks-and-recommendations-thread#post_24282250

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration


Free calibration Disc, very handy.

I have an eye1display calibration meter I used and the Rec 709 disc has patterns to use with calibration software. I use HCFR which is free and comes with an excellent tutorial.As the bulb ages re calibration is a good idea. It does require the investment of a meter, but with the free software and the ability to calibrate as often as you like it is good value. Settings will only be good to the individual so I will not bother yo post them. But for a good basic calibration the Rec709 disc has a tutorial and patterns for non meter calibration.

Thanks, cardoski. Can you link to the meter product page?
 

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