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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!
Odd question maybe but due to the low refresh rate of most JVC projectors for 3D, I see too much flickering during brighter scenes and also crosstalk is annoying.
I was wondering if anyone has decided to go with a dual projector config having one just for 3D and if so, which model.
I guess having a very bright projector (even if we sacrifice some accuracy would be nice but at the same time, I am concern that I am used to the supper blacks and contrast of the JVC).
I was looking at something like the Optoma HD39Darbee but again...constrat, black level? I looked at an Epson as well but I am still concerned with crosstalk which seems to be much better with DLP.

Thanks all for any advice!
 

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I had the JVC 950R and my current NX7 and have never really experienced any problems with my 3D viewing. Which projector, emitter and glasses are you using? I bought the Xpand RF emitter For the 950R and still use it today (my Xpand 105rf glasses broke) with the Hi-Shock glasses with no issues. Find it plenty bright with a fully open iris on a 106” screen.
 

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Hi!
Odd question maybe but due to the low refresh rate of most JVC projectors for 3D, I see too much flickering during brighter scenes and also crosstalk is annoying.
I was wondering if anyone has decided to go with a dual projector config having one just for 3D and if so, which model.
I guess having a very bright projector (even if we sacrifice some accuracy would be nice but at the same time, I am concern that I am used to the supper blacks and contrast of the JVC).
I was looking at something like the Optoma HD39Darbee but again...constrat, black level? I looked at an Epson as well but I am still concerned with crosstalk which seems to be much better with DLP.

Thanks all for any advice!
JVC has not had a crosstalk problem in several years.
 

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Hi!
Odd question maybe but due to the low refresh rate of most JVC projectors for 3D, I see too much flickering during brighter scenes and also crosstalk is annoying.
I was wondering if anyone has decided to go with a dual projector config having one just for 3D and if so, which model.

Thanks all for any advice!
The crosstalk is still enough to bother me on a JVC RS-420, but I cannot say if it is just my setup, but I kind of doubt it.
It's not terrible like before or even in every scene, but it is still there especially when the scene has varying focus uniformity and it shows up on backgrounds in that case (items that are farther back depth-wise).

Other than that, it's ok now, bearable, but some projectors still do 3D better, problem is the black levels of any of the projectors that do 3D well.
 

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Hi!
Odd question maybe but due to the low refresh rate of most JVC projectors for 3D, I see too much flickering during brighter scenes and also crosstalk is annoying.
I was wondering if anyone has decided to go with a dual projector config having one just for 3D and if so, which model.
I guess having a very bright projector (even if we sacrifice some accuracy would be nice but at the same time, I am concern that I am used to the supper blacks and contrast of the JVC).
I was looking at something like the Optoma HD39Darbee but again...constrat, black level? I looked at an Epson as well but I am still concerned with crosstalk which seems to be much better with DLP.

Thanks all for any advice!
I have the x790r and it does some
Of the best 3d I have ever seen. I’ve had 6-8 3d tvs over the years hand two projectors. The best for 3d is lg oled but after that it would be the x790r. Has some flicker but it’s bright and no crosstalk issues after warmup.
 

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Hi!
Odd question maybe but due to the low refresh rate of most JVC projectors for 3D, I see too much flickering during brighter scenes and also crosstalk is annoying.
I was wondering if anyone has decided to go with a dual projector config having one just for 3D and if so, which model.
I guess having a very bright projector (even if we sacrifice some accuracy would be nice but at the same time, I am concern that I am used to the supper blacks and contrast of the JVC).
I was looking at something like the Optoma HD39Darbee but again...constrat, black level? I looked at an Epson as well but I am still concerned with crosstalk which seems to be much better with DLP.

Thanks all for any advice!
Some bright laser units and even some 4K DLPs with 1700 lumens or higher have been released. Some users claim 3D on the 5050UB is 95% problem free.

LE: the ViewSonic PX700HD is relatively inexpensive and measured at 2000 lumens in regular modes, but because it's DLP color lumens is probably around 1300.

Off the top of my head:

*3d brightness low- you can go higher, but at the expense of ghosting/crosstalk. It either of those are bothering you and you need more brightness then increasing gamma or brightness a little, increasing bulb power or changing to dynamic 3d also works. I find changing gamma once in a while on a per movie basis works best. If the movie is too dark, increase the gamma by a setting or two at most. If the colors are washed out, but there is plenty of brightness you can adjust the gamma down a little.

*Auto Iris off- On also increases ghosting/crosstalk

*If ghosting/crosstalk is still bothering you you can try turning the processing to fast instead of fine. This turns off a bunch of additional enhancements and I don't find it's needed as ghosting/crosstalk is nearly eliminated after the above settings.

*Try to keep the image centered in your 3d glasses. You may notice that there is only ghosting/crosstalk when you are looking from the top or bottom of the glasses or it is worse.

If I forgot anything I'll try to update next time I turn on the pj.
 

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In the past I have always felt that DLP projectors offered better 3D because of lack of crosstalk. The new JVC models are so much better and with the limited number of 3D films available there is not that great a need to use a separate projector. That being said if you have an older JVC model or if you watch a lot of 3D you might want to consider a low cost 1080p projector for 3d and casual use. If you do use a second projector be sure that it is bright enough for 3D use. Quite often one can find a decent DLP model that will play 3D for under $400 on Woot or Ebay. This is often less than the cost of a new lamp for a JVC.
One can also find replacement bulbs at very low prices for these inexpensive projectors. They might also be fine for casual TV viewing and for situations where you don't have a light controlled room.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had the JVC 950R and my current NX7 and have never really experienced any problems with my 3D viewing. Which projector, emitter and glasses are you using? I bought the Xpand RF emitter For the 950R and still use it today (my Xpand 105rf glasses broke) with the Hi-Shock glasses with no issues. Find it plenty bright with a fully open iris on a 106” screen.
You are using the AD025-RF-X1 with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TKLGW59/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ASVUEVOC55994&psc=1 ?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
especially when the scene has varying focus uniformity and it shows up on backgrounds in that case (items that are farther back depth-wise).
Yes that is the big issue I see. For example in Thor Ragnarok on that scene where Thor and Loki are talking and the sister shows up, every time one of them is close to the camera while the other is on the background, the crosstalk will be very clear. Or even when she is holding Thor's hammer, which ever part is not in focus, will be clearly affected by crosstalk.
 

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Yet I am seeing that with the AG3glasses and EM2 transmitter on the RS540. Could it be related to the screen somehow then? Happen with both, a Sony 3D player and a Media Player as well.
It is not 100% gone, but it is generally not enough to be considered a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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It is not 100% gone, but it is generally not enough to be considered a problem.
Well what I am seeing is surely not subtle, as it gets distracting. Sad thing is that on darker images or specific scenes this projector makes 3D look amazing but when you get hit with that strong crosstalk, everything falls apart. Now I am wondering what is going on. I have 2 glasses and both look the same way. Maybe I need to check for polarization or something else?
 

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The Hi-Shock looks to be cheaper and I would think it would work with the JVC no problem. My iPad is weird with the links as it opens my Amazon app but being Canadian doesn’t switch over and wouldn’t follow the link. The NEC one is the exact same one I have/got from Xpand and I know works with both my JVC’s
 
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