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Good day, friends !!

I live in Russia. Bought a projector with Ebay. Your forum is very popular among the Russian people who are addicted to technology. The projector is 100% satisfied. But I have a question. Somebody made on the projector ideal sharpness, brightness, and more without special calibration? Share your information? Thank you very much!
 

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Good day! One if the pleasures of my RS4910 was watching Tarkovsky's Solaris on the restored high definition Blu Ray! I will post my personal settings tomorrow.
 

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Craig's are the same as mine so if you have his you are good to go. The only difference is that I personally preferred to turn all electronic 'enhancements' completely off including clear motion and clear black.
 

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Craig's are the same as mine so if you have his you are good to go. The only difference is that I personally preferred to turn all electronic 'enhancements' completely off including clear motion and clear black.
I couldn't agree more. The overall "native" performance of the current generation JVC devices is best you'll find of any 1080p projector out there currently. Unless you particularly like the way frame interpolation looks or like what excessive sharpening does to an image, you'll find that turning off most settings or turning them down to '0' will actually yield you with a better overall image. On occasion I do enable e-shift and sometimes I enable the MPC settings, but on "enhance' up to around 15.
 

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On occasion I do enable e-shift
e-shift drove me crazy with the noise - it isn't audible during dialogue but any time the film went silent it was there, droning like a gnat in my ear - so for that reason I left it off most of the time.
 

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Hi Vitaly,

The settings will be the following:
Picture Mode : User 1
Lamp Power: High
Black Level: High
Iris Manual shifted to 0
Color Profile: Custom 1
- Color Management: Off
Color Temp: 7000K
MPC: On
Clear Motion: I switch it off .
Resolution: 1080p or AUTO
Enhance : 64
Dynamc Contrast: 65
Smoothing: 53
NR: 5
Gamma: set to Custom 1
do Picture Tone for Red and Blue to 3


Contrast, Brightness, Color, Tint - leave it as it is.

I would recommend calibrating it as this piece equipmenet is capable to produce very rich colors, which you won't achieve by just recommended settings.
 

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Hi Vitaly,

The settings will be the following:
Picture Mode : User 1
Lamp Power: High
Black Level: High
Iris Manual shifted to 0
Color Profile: Custom 1
- Color Management: Off
Color Temp: 7000K
MPC: On
Clear Motion: I switch it off .
Resolution: 1080p or AUTO
Enhance : 64
Dynamc Contrast: 65
Smoothing: 53
NR: 5
Gamma: set to Custom 1
do Picture Tone for Red and Blue to 3


Contrast, Brightness, Color, Tint - leave it as it is.

I would recommend calibrating it as this piece equipmenet is capable to produce very rich colors, which you won't achieve by just recommended settings.
I'd recommend that you get yours calibrated as I suspect you will end up with quite different settings to that above. ;)

Lamp power at high and aperture at 0 indicates that you like a very bright image or perhaps have a huge screen. Most users shouldn't need to use high power for 2D and if they need aperture at 0 to start with then their screen is too big/needs more gain as there is nowhere to go as the lamp dims.

Turning colour management OFF means that you will be viewing an oversaturated colour gamut. If you don't have calibration equipment, you could try 'Standard' or 'Cinema' colour profiles as they should be closer to rec709, though both were under saturated on my X500.

For the OP (and others who may stumble across this thread and don't have the 'secret sauce' settings offered via PM, then I'd recommend this as a starting point, but I strongly recommend getting a proper calibration after 100 hours use as JVCs tend to suffer gamma issues as they wear in and benefit greatly from correcting these errors:

All controls at 0/OFF if not specifically mentioned otherwise:
HDMI set to Standard
Colour temp 6500K or perhaps lower
Colour profile Standard or Cinema
Custom gamma set to 2.3 or 2.4 (will measure less in practice). DON'T adjust the picture tone controls, though raising the dark gamma (white) a click or two above 0 might help improve shadow detail.

Aperture to taste (idealy set with a light meter), but try not to start off fully open as the lamp will dim with use.

I prefer MPC ON when I zoom for 2.35:1, but I use fairly low settings of enhance 30, dynamic contrast 30, smoothing 30 and personally I never use NR so that is set to 0. However, these settings are outside of calibration and into 'preference' so just watch out for excessive noise in the image and reduce the settings if required (use the 'before' and 'after' settings to compare).

I would also recommend setting the resolution in MPC to a fixed setting such as 1080p. I have experienced issues using 'auto' (sharpness 'pulsing') and feeding it with 4k for example.

Related settings:

Turn OFF deepcolour in your player (it adds no useful benefit and greatly increases the data rate down the HDMI cable, making drop outs more likely).

Set your player to output YCrCb 4:2:2 (and then set the X500/RS49 input menu to the same rather than 'auto').

If your player supports 4K upscaling, then turn it OFF. :eek: I know it might be tempting to see the '4k2k' logo appear on the information screen, but having compared using my Lumgen 2041 to upscale and just leaving the X500 to do it I don't see any benefit. Rather like deepcolour above, it just adds to data rate with no real gain. I doubt any player will be able to upscale as well as a Lumagen anyway and yet I still see no benefit.

Hope that covers it. :)
 

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Yeap I have 135 inch screen its not 200 inch but still large I like images bright and see no point to save my lamp :) ive recalibrated settings recently and for sure they are completely different with 1250 hours it was quite play to set correxct gamma to match 2.2, iris still set to 0 highest contrast, also 6500k and Standard picture mode and of cours all colors in CMS are calibrated to reduxe deltas errors picture now is astonishing nevertheless lamp got its half life as Inused it all the time at max, as I said it needs to be calibrated.
 

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That's a big screen for sure, especially if it is a low gain, so I understand you using high lamp, but for information setting the aperture to '0' doesn't give the highest on/off contrast, '-15' does (but would likely be too dim for your taste anyway).

However IMHO the figures you posted as 'recommended settings' aren't really suitable for more typical set ups. If you've subsequently calibrated (assuming with a meter and software?) then I'd understand you using Standard colour profile now, so it seems odd that you recommended just using CMS OFF in your earlier post, plus some of the other settings which maybe aren't 'general' settings to apply (even if they work for you).

BTW did you calibrate the CMS at 75% as the CMS can be a bit non linear? Also using saturation control in the CMS seems to exacerbate this issue. For the small cost I'd highly recommend getting a Spyder 4 Pro/Elite sensor and downloading the free JVC autocal software. While the Spyder 4 isn't a great sensor, it worked well enough to reset the drooping gamma on my X500 (which started at only 60 hours FWIW) and I managed to create a custom colour profile that was just a fraction over rec709.

I then could perform a manual calibration using my i1D3 Pro/Chromapure and I only needed to use a small amount of the lightness control in the CMS to correct the colours (at 75%). Also the gamma response was pretty flat after the JVC autocal, so I didn't need to make too many adjustments in the JVC controls (no bad thing as I find them a bit fiddly).

I'm getting great results after the autocal, just doing a manual calibration using my i1D3 Pro/Chromapure, but this weekend I hope to be able to run the full autocalibration using my Lumagen 2041/Chromapure at 729 points, so it ought to be even better after that. However the X500 gives a cracking picture with it's own controls, provided it is properly set up.
 

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That's a big screen for sure, especially if it is a low gain, so I understand you using high lamp, but for information setting the aperture to '0' doesn't give the highest on/off contrast, '-15' does (but would likely be too dim for your taste anyway).

However IMHO the figures you posted as 'recommended settings' aren't really suitable for more typical set ups. If you've subsequently calibrated (assuming with a meter and software?) then I'd understand you using Standard colour profile now, so it seems odd that you recommended just using CMS OFF in your earlier post, plus some of the other settings which maybe aren't 'general' settings to apply (even if they work for you).

BTW did you calibrate the CMS at 75% as the CMS can be a bit non linear? Also using saturation control in the CMS seems to exacerbate this issue. For the small cost I'd highly recommend getting a Spyder 4 Pro/Elite sensor and downloading the free JVC autocal software. While the Spyder 4 isn't a great sensor, it worked well enough to reset the drooping gamma on my X500 (which started at only 60 hours FWIW) and I managed to create a custom colour profile that was just a fraction over rec709.

I then could perform a manual calibration using my i1D3 Pro/Chromapure and I only needed to use a small amount of the lightness control in the CMS to correct the colours (at 75%). Also the gamma response was pretty flat after the JVC autocal, so I didn't need to make too many adjustments in the JVC controls (no bad thing as I find them a bit fiddly).

I'm getting great results after the autocal, just doing a manual calibration using my i1D3 Pro/Chromapure, but this weekend I hope to be able to run the full autocalibration using my Lumagen 2041/Chromapure at 729 points, so it ought to be even better after that. However the X500 gives a cracking picture with it's own controls, provided it is properly set up.
Hi Kelvin absolutely agree with everything, those settings were recommended by Craig pmed and emailed me, I didn't run the calibration tool with those settings but will try next time. I've used i1 D3 (Display Pro) and HCFR latest v3.0.4 version, I've done all manual calibration and as for CMS I've used 100% IRE for all colors to perfect calibration for colors as the final step, my actual settings after calibration are the following:
Projector lamp 1250 hours, with high power

HCFR charts before calibration:
xyY values across 100% Greyscale

Luminance:

Gamma:

Color Temperature:

Rgb Levels:

CIE:


Projector Settings:
I'll add them a bit later on I have to go, I'll post post calibration results and settings as well later on.
 

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I'd highly recommend that you try using 75% for the CMS adjustments. In practice there is virtually no content at 100%, so being a little 'out' at 100% is preferable to being out at 50 and 75% as this is where more real video content lies. However, as previously noted try not to use the saturation control in the JVC CMS as it introduces non linear effects so your 25 and 50% is more likely to be out even if you get 75% spot on.

I haven't used HFCR for a number of years (since I changed to Chromapure Pro) but if there is any kind of saturation measurements you can use it will show whether the CMS adjustment causes a non linear result.

I have to say that I'm surprised at those 'recommend' settings if they were sent by AVS. Maybe trying to make the display look initially 'impressive/sharp' but IMHO more likely to be further away from accurate than my 'base' settings (though mine still require calibration anyway as would all projectors, to be truly accurate).
 

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I'd highly recommend that you try using 75% for the CMS adjustments. In practice there is virtually no content at 100%, so being a little 'out' at 100% is preferable to being out at 50 and 75% as this is where more real video content lies. However, as previously noted try not to use the saturation control in the JVC CMS as it introduces non linear effects so your 25 and 50% is more likely to be out even if you get 75% spot on.

I haven't used HFCR for a number of years (since I changed to Chromapure Pro) but if there is any kind of saturation measurements you can use it will show whether the CMS adjustment causes a non linear result.

I have to say that I'm surprised at those 'recommend' settings if they were sent by AVS. Maybe trying to make the display look initially 'impressive/sharp' but IMHO more likely to be further away from accurate than my 'base' settings (though mine still require calibration anyway as would all projectors, to be truly accurate).
I'll try it out Kelving, but surprisingly calibrating it on IRE 100% still my RGB levels where almost 100% match, I'll try it out and let you know as well.

Also to VITALY for reference RGB High End this will be Color Temperature settings GAIN for each color
RGB Low End will be Color Temperature OFFSET for each color.
As Kelving suggested and myself I would highly recommend you calibrating your environment, it can cost you very cheap, just buy a good colorimeter meter and you can use free software like HCFR to do the calibration.
 

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Hi Vitaly,

The settings will be the following:
Picture Mode : User 1
Lamp Power: High
Black Level: High
Iris Manual shifted to 0
Color Profile: Custom 1
- Color Management: Off
Color Temp: 7000K
MPC: On
Clear Motion: I switch it off .
Resolution: 1080p or AUTO
Enhance : 64
Dynamc Contrast: 65
Smoothing: 53
NR: 5
Gamma: set to Custom 1
do Picture Tone for Red and Blue to 3


Contrast, Brightness, Color, Tint - leave it as it is.

I would recommend calibrating it as this piece equipmenet is capable to produce very rich colors, which you won't achieve by just recommended settings.
I have seen quite a few X500´s and this is far from the best precalibrated setting of the average X500. And with the enhancer set at 64 you will have a overcooked image with a lot of edge enhancement if you have a late X500.
 
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Based on my later produced X500, these are the most accurate settings without using calibration equipment:

user 1 profile
color profile: custom
colour temp: 6500k. Mine gave under 3dE readings across the board with this preset and no changes
gamma: 2.4 (though it won't truly be 2.4 as I had to make some adjustments)
contrast: -1
brightness: +2
colour: think it is maybe at +1
tint: 0
input level is standard

then all the enhancement stuff is at 0
iris is in auto and I start with it at -11 to give me 14 ft-l on screen

Having the colour profile in custom produces the most accurate readings on mine to the point I don't have to adjust anything to tighten it up. The other profiles like cinema and standard gave worse readings.
 

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What is the difference between and early and late production X500R, and is there something in print about this alleged change?
 

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What is the difference between and early and late production X500R, and is there something in print about this alleged change?
There is no difference at all :) they are all 2014 new models.
 
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