AVS Forum banner

101 - 120 of 163 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
hey guys got a question for you, recently i got a free sony bravia kdl-32l4000 from a friend who was going to toss it because the screen had the same issue as the one in this thread with the exception of this irritating band that was on the screen...anyway i took it apart and tried to fix it with the method tono posted but i only succeeded in fixing the band and the flickering screen issue remained and rather than buy a new panel for a grand or more im just going to part it out but...i guess my question is what parts should i be careful of taking out so i dont get shocked as i hear some parts carry a charge even when unplugged. thanks for any help in this, and sorry for the wall of text and long ass post lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Exact same symptom as my KDL46VL130. Been fighting with Sony since this first appeared during the warranty period and I have an e-mail trail. On the phone with their Customer Service this very morning and got a "tough luck" reply since doesn't matter when it first appeared (began as intermittent problem), but when it went in for servicing at an authorized dealer. Sorry to tell you that, but I'm done with Sony forever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by display veteran /forum/post/17438103


I’ll have to give you an A+ for effort and creativity on this one. You are correct when you say this may not work and there is not guarantee on how long it will last.


Tab bonding is performed by using a heat-activated glue that contains tiny steel balls. The steel balls are what make the electrical contact between the tabs on the flex cable and the panel. The steel balls are small enough to prevent a short circuit between the tabs so the glue is simply smeared across the tabs. A steel bar heated with RF energy heats the bar and activates the glue.


This is all done with 2 cameras and a monitor to align the flex cable tabs to the panel tabs. A computer program handles the temperature and duration of the heating of the glue.


What you are demonstrating is a “band aid” solution but I suppose that if one has the time and aptitude to perform this, what do they have to lose? I’ve been able to fix this with a pen torch and a large flat-blade screwdriver to re-bond the glue but that was at a point where I had too much time on my hands :)

I've a few questions about your "torch & screwdriver" repair.


1. What was the model # of the screwdriver that you used? (Or just give me the approximate dimensions of it, So I can find one of the same type.)

2. Approximately how much time & heat is needed to melt & rebind the glue?

3. Are the panels that you've repaired this way, still operating without any issues?


Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_Boky /forum/post/17045478


A & D seem to be power supplies for the inverters probably located inside those 2 black plastic panels on each side of the TV

B - power supply for the rest of the PCB's

C - pixel driver PCB (LCD panel driver PCB)

G - inputs / outputs & tuner

E & F are AV processing PCB's


tricky fault... I can not see how the pixel driver board feeds matrix signals to LCD panel. I would clean the contacts here first... and at the LCD panel end as well.


next...???? not an easy one... could be the AV processing boards... or pixel driver PCB.... or panel...



Boky

Please help. I am not sure, which part should I replace. the problem I have with my 46xbr4 is the standby red light kept blink 5 times continously. thank reply greatly approciated.


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello everybody!

I have a Sony KDL-32L4000 with a similar problem. I bought a T-Con board off E-Bay but that didn't fix it. (I'm just hoping that the new one is not defective too!) I've been tapping all the boards, ribbons and connectors , i've gently twisted the whole TV (mostly the panel) hoping that maybe it's a bad connection somewhere but nothing happened....I would very much appreciate if you could give me some ideas about what my next step should be....I attached some pics so you can see exactly what the symptoms are. Thanks guys!


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
thanks for all the info, great work figuring it out. i got the fix to work on a samsung ln-t4661f, but sadly i cracked the bottom right corner of the lcd panel but its about the size of a half dollar coin.


Anyways so i have been using the tv for the day an had no issues so decided i would put the shell back on. Well now the screen after about 2 minutes reverts back to the half the screen is darkened and slow to respond, I have no idea why, the tv wasn't moved while putting it back together and im not really looking forward to taking it apart, im thinking i may have made the bumpers too small and they may have heated up an slid out of place, has anyone else had this issue while using this fix?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
just dropping in to say a hearty thank you to all those contributing to this thread, especially the OP. Did this fix last night. Not sure how long it will last but for now this has saved me a ton of cash.


woot


the only thing is that i decided to do this late last night and I didn't really have stuff (particulary bumpstops) . . . soooo I cut up one of the wife's silicon spatulas and used it. Which leads me to this piece of advice . .. if you do that, don't use a blue one. there is a small hint of blue illumination in the corner. It can only be seen when the screen is black and I'm not worrying about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi OnlyTono et al,


Thanks for the posts on this thread, hosting images and the videos on youtube. I needed all of the above to work out how to fix my left-side-dark slow-pixel-refresh problem. It took me two iterations and a few hours. I only have the following minor variations to suggest: (1) re-attach the two vertical struts and stand for ease of access during the repair; and (2) I used electrical tape to secure plastic padding on the top left inner horizontal surface of the aluminium frame because I could not find any bumpoffs at home and the shops were closed at the time.


I think Sony has a design flaw here and needs to better manage the high temperature along the top edge of the LCD panel which no doubt contributes to the delamination/unbonding. I've moved my Sony KDL-46X3100 to the airconditioned basement of my house. Its has been fine since.


Keep up the good work.


GarryE

Brisbane
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Howdy!



I'll return with a proper post re: my 32m3000 trials and tribulations - for now I thought I'd chime in with a couple of kwik suggestions (take the good with the bad).


Apply some RTV silicone (Gasket-Maker©) to the end of the end of a metal ruler (mechanical scale). give it a couple of coats (of RT) .. we want a moderate build-up. A moderate build-up of high-temperature (resistant), form-fitting, heat-transferring: RTV glue on our applicator stick.


Place a hot-air gun face-up in an adequate holder of some description. This is to be our convenient heat-source.

I'm not exactly sure what the desired temperature-of-application would or should be. I've peeled some ribbon back - back off of a dud-set and it looks like there is an intervening layer of what appears to be a thin layer of clear hot-melt©. This is to say .. it does not appear the entire 'micro-finger' is employed in making contact.


Fine continuity measurements will shed light on this. There appears only a fine region of contact (metal-to-metal) right along the inner-edge (the leading edge as viewed "panel-side"). This contact area represents a mere 5 percent of the available "finger area".

The rest of the finger area is apparently employed as a convenient ribbon anchorage re: hot-melt.



Perhaps we should scrap the comparatively wide heat applicator and opt for a knife-edge heat applicator.


Laser welding comes to mind .. not sure of the optical transparency co-efficient for the overlaying Kapton©. Solder is assuredly a poor absorber re: highly reflective. There might be a window of opportunity in there somewhere. Requires pretty accurate placement - employ a quartz glass overlay (jig). Laser are known for decent accuracy (smirk).


The thin soldered region appears pretty chalky I might add - I'm surmising this as not a particularly benign environment for fine solder connections. "Panel out-gassing" might contribute to solder degradation. (like I said - take the good with the bad) : )



Moving along ..


in relation to BumpOns© ....how about: apply a bead of Mono© or silicone glue (of proper "rigidity") to the appropriate tab locations - this along the inside surface of the metal casement? Allow these beads to cure overnight then trim with razor blade - as required. A mute point if we've fixed our de-lamination issue - although it may have merit from a heat-sink standpoint.


Contact spray-cleaner as applied under the ribbon cable right into the zone in question may have merit in removing offending contaminations. It strikes me that this is a high-stress solder environment (for all the right (read: wrong) reasons).


FYI - the ribbon cable is of a material known as Kapton ...


Kapton© is a goldish-ambery, transparent polyimide film developed by DuPont which can remain stable in a wide range of temperatures, from -273 to +400 °C.



All this is in contradiction to the steel ball in glue hypothesis .. I'm seeing just regular old solder - is my impression. Nothing particularly fancy going on here.


It's only soldered on a very tiny spot to ameliorate production soldering limitations .. or soldering limitations in general .. as applied to this geometry and materials composition (and service) .. it's making the best of a bad thing - ultimately. We're not seeing solder-bridging in this particularly tight region.


All this subject to confirmation and assessment. Trust this as somehow reasonable and in the same breath: reasonably well-received.


Wish me luck with my 32m3000 .. a "T-con swap-out" paid no dividends - oh well 8 S


reverting to Plan B i.e. assessing the D-lam hypothesis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I investigated a little further re: the nature of the tab bond .. this from an old KDL series 46" damaged screen. I heated a tab with a hot air gun. After a decent heat I was able to readily pull the tab away from the circuit board. Viewing the tab through a light source - it appeared less than pristine clean - sloping toward dirty.


There's no obvious solder - so I might stand corrected on my previous post. Evidently it's some kind of selectively conductive glue (I gather) I was getting continuity readings pretty much every which way (except inter-finger).


As for homespun solutions .. laser printers have the red-rubber fuser roll. It can take quite a bit of heat .. heat the end of a hacked roll with a hot-air gun and work this roll-end over any tab in question. This might make up for some of my less-than-practical previous suggestions : )


I'm still working on my 32M3000. Sony logo corruption did not benefit from the T-Con exchange - corruption is still there as you can see in the pic .. The solution for this well-defined problem is not forth-coming off the net. I'm getting "mixed signals". People are quick to suggest it's a panel problem - including Sony. But they didn't enumerate this exact particular symptom re: "Logo banding" .. they just suggest that any banding is a panel problem .. that's a bit too heavy-handed an assessment - I think it fair to say.


Other set-owners are complaining about this very specific "corrupted logo and super slow-motion "motion blur" issue. There seems to be some bias toward orange in image rendering.


I'm not getting any PC signal detection .. I got a good PC signal and a good cable .. This diagnostic crept up having replaced the T-Con .. switching back to the old T-Con did not eliminate it i.e. still not detecting PC signal. This is pointing toward a BN board issue. My concern this is in addition to an underlying panel problem. Any insight is appreciated. Fair to say I've eliminated this as a T-Con problem - which was a great disappointment .. sure looked like a T-Con problem re: trailing edges .. poor refresh rate .. corrupted start-up .. lousy color control. I need your considered input.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
MANY thanks to OnlyTono,NipRing & Everyone else who's contributed to this thread. My KDL-40x3500 has had this troublesome problem for months, & Sony

Europe support didn't seem to want to know about it.


I noticed though, my problem tab was actually the left hand side top tab, as opposed to the right hand one in NipRing's video. Also noticed a slight groove where the tabs are. I had no Bumpons at home, so I simply cut up an rubber eraser, just wide enough to sit in the groove, & deep enough to apply pressure when the silver frame was back on.


It's now been a couple of hours, & the set's working fine.


One thing though - whilst tugging with one of the troublesome speaker wires, i accidentally knocked out the wires that run to the on/off /volume panel. They don't look like they were soldered in, so I'm assuming they were just pushed in.


Would anyone know the correct placement of the 3 wires?


Sorry, i would post links to show pics of the board, but as this is my first post i can't send any links yet.


Thanks once more guys, you've been real lifesavers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
this was a great lifesaver. Thanks for the tips. I bought this tv on craigslist for 75 bucks from someone else who got a warranty replacement from Sony. For me the screen was dark on half of the picture but was not enough to really make too much of a difference as it was going into my nearly empty basement. After a search on Google for the issue i noticed this site and the clever way to fix it.


This TV has so many screws! Ugh! After about 5 hours I had successfully disassembled the tv applied the bump on to the upper right hand tab and reassembled the tv.


I only have one screw left... Oh well. I did notice that were many screw holes that weren't used for some reason. I now have a working tv that only cost me 75 bucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Following the brilliant guide and all the support I've received on this forum, I've diagnosed and 'nearly' repaired the problem. however, despite the obvious warnings about the metal tabs at the top of the screen, I still found a way to short out the circtuit board which connects to the screen via ribbons. The television turned it self off soon after recognizing the short, however upon turning it back on, I can hear an audible click (the one normally present when switching the power on) ut the screen remains blank. I can understand if there was no response fromthe LCD screen itself, however even the CCL (is that the proper abbreviation for cold cathode lamp?) remains dark. The TV will again turn it self off soon after turning it back on. I don't see how I could have shorted out the 'CCL' when the metal tab touched the LCD board. Could this be a manufacturer short prevention to keep the TV from turning back on before having bene taken to an authorized repair shop? I am under the impression (hoping at least) that I could fix the problem with some sort of manufacturer reset, now that the short has been eliminated. At least the CCL should backlight the screen right? All advice appreciated, but obviously if I was going to take it to a shop I would have done so by now, so please try to direct your advice towards repair, not ridicule. Anybody know of a way to reset the TV using the Manufacturer service port, or some other trick? I'm seconds away from looking for a CMOS battery.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I have a KDL-52XBR4 that has the same problems. I tried replacing the UB-1 & FB-1 boards with no success. I found that the problem was the tab bonding. I tried fixing it by putting in a shim but I could not get it to work correctly. I found a Facebook page named "I have a defective Sony TV." I looked at the info tab on the page and emailed SonyListens about my problem. I can't go into what transpired because of an agreement that I signed with them but I would like to say that it is worth pursuing the issue with them. To see what they might do, read through the posts. Most are for rear projection TV's but you will find posts for the XBR4's also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,138 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold_Cathode /forum/post/19765973




I'm still working on my 32M3000. Sony logo corruption did not benefit from the T-Con exchange - corruption is still there as you can see in the pic .. The solution for this well-defined problem is not forth-coming off the net. I'm getting "mixed signals". People are quick to suggest it's a panel problem - including Sony. But they didn't enumerate this exact particular symptom re: "Logo banding" .. they just suggest that any banding is a panel problem .. that's a bit too heavy-handed an assessment - I think it fair to say.


Other set-owners are complaining about this very specific "corrupted logo and super slow-motion "motion blur" issue. There seems to be some bias toward orange in image rendering.


I'm not getting any PC signal detection .. I got a good PC signal and a good cable .. This diagnostic crept up having replaced the T-Con .. switching back to the old T-Con did not eliminate it i.e. still not detecting PC signal. This is pointing toward a BN board issue. My concern this is in addition to an underlying panel problem. Any insight is appreciated. Fair to say I've eliminated this as a T-Con problem - which was a great disappointment .. sure looked like a T-Con problem re: trailing edges .. poor refresh rate .. corrupted start-up .. lousy color control. I need your considered input.



Logos are drawn from the "memory". If they display okay and there's problem with of the air picture - you'll need to replace the processor board - one with the connectors on it. I think sony actually uses two boards (in older TV's) to handle tuner, input selection, microprocessor functions and audio/video signal processing.... this is usually done on one board, and the very latest TV's have the T-CON there as well.


You may have to replace the AV processor board (main board) to fix the bad PC input, and the panel as well. The photos you attached sure look like bad TAB's.



Boky
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,138 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by raj_rios /forum/post/20758005


....I still found a way to short out the circtuit board which connects to the screen via ribbons. The television turned it self off soon after recognizing the short.........All advice appreciated, but obviously if I was going to take it to a shop I would have done so by now, so please try to direct your advice towards repair, not ridicule. Anybody know of a way to reset the TV using the Manufacturer service port, or some other trick? I'm seconds away from looking for a CMOS battery.....

Shorting the ribbon cable to the TV frame caused power supply failure, most likely.


Resetting, downloading firmware, resetting/removing the battery (there's no battery in TV's) will not fix the problem.


You have to get the service manual and check the voltages around power supply board. Look for the burnt out (open circuit) fuseable resistors, or blown fuses... to start with... The quickest fuse is actually the semiconductor device, so if you find the fuse blown -> you will most likely find the semiconductor(s) had shorted as well… and this will complicate the fault finding a fair bit in your case. Maybe just try the new board.


Based on your comments on what might be wrong AND the fact that knowledge in interpreting electronic schematics, as well as experience when working with power supply board is needed (!!!!Leather voltages!!!) -> I strongly suggest you take the TV to repair centre.


Boky
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Outstanding post, OnlyTono! Thank you for all your effort to educate the rest of us.

I have a KDL-46VL130 which exhibited all the same problems as everyone else. I followed your excellent directions, and the TV is functioning perfectly. I realize this amounts to a "bubble gum and bailing wire" fix, but it is working and working well.

Of course, it was out of warranty and Sony could care less. I am so sick of manufacturers that distribute their products and then don't stand behind their performance. There is no excuse for this defective wirebonding.

This was the last Sony product I will ever purchase.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Hello,


Not trying to Hijack a thread by my Sony Bravia KDL32-4000 is having issues with its screen. ON non-white screens/images i get grey shaded areas on the left middle and right of the screen. They appear to be a kind of burn in but I have tried the leaving it on a white screen and such to remove said burn in with no effect . The reason I think they are burn i is because the one on the right didn't appear till after I paused Smallville, went to get a glass of water and now have a shaded area on the right side of the screen in the shape of Lex's head.


I am going to try to post an image if it lets me I am new here.


Thanks,


Dustin

--image in next post--
 
101 - 120 of 163 Posts
Top