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Having a similar problem with KDL-46VL160, the unit is about 6 month out of its 2 years warranty. Can't believe Sony doesn't have a recall for these yet.


Please see the youtube video - does it look like the problem described in this thread?
 

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Hey guys!


I want to apologize straight up for hi-jacking this thread... I know it's the cardinal rule of forums... you can stone me later if you like!

But I've asked over 30 people (repairmen and 'experts' alike) for an answer to a question and NO ONE can give it to me straight!!



If ANY of you could shed some light on my issue with my Bravia, I would be SO incredibly tickled! It seems to mirror the symptoms OnlyTono had, but it's not the same problem!

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1438043/my-bravia-screen-is-broken-and-i-cant-get-a-straight-answer-as-to-why-help
 

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Hey OnlyTono,


EDIT:: Sorry for posting twice! I added to this thread at first, then directly responded to the thread starter post not realizing it was the same action! I can't figure out how to delete on of these posts! Sorry guys!


Question: When you first booted your TV up, did you notice if the Bravia logo was affected by the darkening??


My symptoms match yours to a "T", but I've tried the TABs and to no avail.


I noticed that my Bravia logo is completely fine, even though it's located in the same spot that appears 'broken' later.


I've started a thread on this phenomenon, and would love some input!
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1438043/my-bravia-screen-is-broken-and-i-cant-get-a-straight-answer-as-to-why-help

Thanks man!
 

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Joined just to thank OnlyTono for his awesome writeup. Had the same dark/slow pixels on half the screen on a Sony Bravia KDL-52W5150. I couldn't locate which ribbon was the faulty one, so instead of rubber bumpers, I used a piece of nylon twine held by electrical tape to make a ridge running along the entire top edge of the metal bracket opposite the tabs. So far haven't seen the problem come back. Hopefully it stays working.
 

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I'm subscribing just for a single reason (but I might stay too
): to thank you guys for this awesome post.


My TV not working properly has been bugging me for two years but the warranty having expired and not being able to replace it just now meant I had to stick with it. Good thing I looked up if someone had a DIY solution. Too bad I didn't look it up 2 years ago



I had the exact same symptoms : either slow pixels and a darkened left side of the screen, or horizontal lines and mirror images still on the left side. And slightly tapping the upper left side of the tv would switch from one symptom to the other. And sometimes after hours turned on, the tv would just start working normally until we switched it off... (Remember the Friends episode with the free porn where Joey and Chandler dare jot turn their tv off ? Same thing ^^)


Opening the TV set isn't too hard if you've already had fun playing around with a screwdriver (just don't forget to bin sort the screws
). The only hard part was putting the television face up without any electronic components on the back touching the table it was on and the solution I found was using a square wood base of approximately the size of the wall mounting structure on the back of the television which is obviously very strong and place tv on it. Once the panel was opened, the faulty connector is easy to find and fix. And the fault is obvious: in my case pushing on the connector shows a bubble of air appearing between the glue and the connector.


Just FYI, the tv is a Sony KDL-46W4710 (a variant of the 46W4500 series).


So again, OnlyTono, good job on daring to open your tv in the first place, and all the others for the additional input. I am ecstatic \o/


Greetings from France.
 

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I have the Sony KDL-52W3000, was having the same problem as everyone else here. TV turned on and LCD showed a picture fine it just had 4 horizontal lines and a black shadow in the middle. Picture would lag a bit. I found this thread and decided to try it.


I got everything apart just fine and discovered that applying pressure to the ribbons definitely fixed it if I got them perfect. I turned the TV off and unplugged it to get some supplies for the fix and when I plugged the TV back in the LCD just stopped displaying anything. The power light will turn green for about 10 seconds then go to the standby blinking light, which in my case blinks 5 times. I looked it up and this means "T-Con Error". Now I'm trying to figure out how it couldve have went from working perfect to not even turning on? I starting double checking everything and noticed that there were 4 clips total on the top that holds the metal frame to the inside rack. I had only removed 2 because the others were hidden. The remaining two were laying directly on top of the boards that the LCD ribbons connect too, not the T-Con but the boards connected to it.


I know it's possible that could have shorted out those boards or the T-Con board but is it very likely? Any ideas what else could have happened and how I can test it to make sure?
 

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Hey guys, I joined just to say thanks for this awesome thread, especially to OnlyTono. Sorry to ressurect this old thread, but I thought I'd add a bit in case anyone googles it to solve their problem like I did.


I ended up fixing the dim side/pixel refresh problem very briefly before I think I accidentally shorted the TCON board. I'm having the exact same symptoms as Dillon above now. The LED and sony symbol light up, but nothing on the screen, after about 10 seconds it goes to the standby light. I ordered a new tcon board and I'm going to try to replace it and see if that rectifies the problem.


For those who are going to try to replace the TCON board, this guy at http://www.gotosnapshot.com/myblog/sony-kdl-52xbr4-t-con-ub1-replacement wrote some pretty good directions on how to access it.


Will update if it works so anyone else checking this thread can have a reference.
 

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Just want to report another successful repair of a Samsung set with a tab bonding problem.


My Samsung LN40A650A1F (LN40A650A1FXZA) 40" LCD TV was a hand me down from my father in law because it had developed some screen problems.


When I initially received it, the TV had multiple images, expanded vertically upon startup, which then dissipated after 5-10 minutes of warm up. We lived with it like that for 6 months. However the problem became worse with left half screen dimming and some number of thin colored vertical bands running down the left side of the screen. This new problem would appear after the set had been on a few minutes, and in the early stages went away after 30 or so minutes. We tried just leaving the set on 24x7, but eventually the second problem just stopped going away.


Following the examples here and also on badcaps.net, I purchased some heat conductive compressible foam on eBay (Thermagon T-Flex 6100 highly Compressible Gap Filling Interface Pad 47mm x 66mm) for $3.74 including s/h. I opened the TV and removed the metal frame on the LCD panel. While running the TV for at most 1 minute at a time to avoid overheating damage, I found that pressing down on the left most (as viewed when looking at the TV in the normal orientation) tab bonded flexible circuit, between the in-line driver IC and the glass panel edge, cleared the picture up for the most part. It seemed like the right most tab bond also had some effect on the picture. The 14 flexible circuit tab bonds in between had no effect on the picture when pressed on in various ways, so they seemed very solid. I cut two roughly 8 mm strips across the short edge of the Thermagon pad (so roughly 8mm x 47mm), peeled the backing off both sides, and applied them on top of the flexible circuits at both ends, aligning with the edge of the glass. In this position they partially overlapped the position of the inline integrated circuit, however I do not think the placement of the pads was particularly critical. I replaced the metal frame and tested the LCD panel and it had a perfect image again, which remained without any problem after I finished reassembling the TV.


A couple of minor notes.

1) I did "break and remake" the contacts on the cable from the main control board to the TCON board on both ends, and also on both ends of each of the four short ribbon cables from the TCON board to the signal distribution board. It had absolutely no effect on the LCD image when I powered it back on.


2) The metal frame on my LCD panel was attached to the LCD by the 10 smaller silver screws from the front (image side), and also by three screws (M4-0.70 x 12mm) black machine screws that attached it to some other metal frame parts at the bottom. But there were 10 other screw holes on the sides for attaching the metal frame to the plastic LCD frame that did not have screws in them. I decided that adding these screws could only make the overall panel more rigid, and perhaps reduce flexing that might cause more problems, so I purchased the additional screws (M4-.70x12 oval head Phillips) at Lowe's and added them. There were no problems with clearance of the heads when reassembling the TV. This step was probably unnecessary, but I thought I would simply let folks know that you can do this without damage. Don't use longer screws, cause that could potentially cause problems.


So thanks again to OnlyTono and NipRing and others for providing this information. Saved this TV from the landfill.
 

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Hello. My dad and  were fixing our 46 in. xbr 4 just now.  We stupidly left the TV on when we were pulling of the last silver layer over the tabs.  I guess when we were pulling it up one of those metal tabs made contact (like how OnlyTono says in description to prevent with the wooden dowels).  So the picture went out, and now we have the layer completely off and the tabs exposed, with wood blocking the metal tabs from touching, and are unable to get a picture.  When you first turn the TV on, it makes the usual 'click', but no picture.  Even when turning it on and off you only get a click the first time you turn it on (probably not important information). So i guess we did damage to the t-con board like OnlyTono said? I was just wondering if anyone has any advice on what would be our next step.  I don't know if we can replace the

t-con board or something, just please get back to me.  

 

Thank you
 

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I can't find those exact Bumpons anywhere here locally nor online.

Could you suggest a source from which to purchase them?

 

Thank you!!!

 

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Hi! I want to thank you all. I just fixed up the SCEPTRE X46BV 46incher. A friend of mine give me for free! My TV show exact same issues you guys have and my solution?? Rip off three left bumper strips!!! I assume those bumper strips are putting too much pressure on the tabs. Now, my free tv work great although it have trouble booting up(no bad capacitors on power board). 
 

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Hello, I'm having this same problem with the right hand side of my Kdl-46xbr4. I've read through this thread and OnlyTono's guide, but could someone tell me what has to be taken apart and removed in order to complete the repair? What boards/frames/etc need to be removed in order to get to the panel?


My TV is missing the stand, so I'm afraid that may make it more difficult for me seeing as this set it quite heavy. Thanks in advance!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by xorange90x  /t/1173106/kdl-xbr4-half-the-screen-dark-with-slow-pixel-refresh-all-inputs/150#post_24540689


Hello, I'm having this same problem with the right hand side of my Kdl-46xbr4. I've read through this thread and OnlyTono's guide, but could someone tell me what has to be taken apart and removed in order to complete the repair? What boards/frames/etc need to be removed in order to get to the panel?


My TV is missing the stand, so I'm afraid that may make it more difficult for me seeing as this set it quite heavy. Thanks in advance!
Have a look at the service manual above in my post. Its got step by step on how to dismantle the panel. You dont't need to go all the way though, start at page 12 and stop at 14. Then go to page 20. This should free up the panel and u should be able to lift the panel with its aluminium cover with it. From there on follow Ontono's guide on post 29

 

I hope this helps.
 

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Thanks for the reply! I downloaded and looked through the manual. My question now is, how does the TV still power up properly with all of these things removed? I'm assuming there is no method of getting the panel apart from the front of the unit, is there?


Edit: nvm, I see now! I an viewing the PDF on my phone and it was showing page 15 as 14 and so on... So it made me think all of the boards had to come out to! Now that I see it correctly it doesn't look so hard.


Edit 2: So last night I decided to give this a try. It WORKED! I must say, it is quite a project though. Everything seems to have worked out as expected. It was the far right tab giving the trouble. Instead of a rubber bumper I used a clipping from a heatsink thermal pad. I figured not only will it apply the pressure needed, but it will also help to move the heat off of the ribbon/tab onto the frame. Been watching movies for a couple of hours now with no issues. Thanks everyone who contributed to the fix, mostly to OnlyTono!


BTW, I got this set out of the trash last week along with a 37" Sharp Aquos! The Sharp works perfectly already, and now so does the Sony! Not bad for free!
 

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Just a quick update on my set: after about 15 mins (when it's warmed up), the right side starts flashing and going crazy again. A firm tap on the upper right corner of the bezel makes it instantly stop and then it works great for hours. Right now it's not enough of an issue to make me tare it apart again. I can live with this minor issue as long as it doesn't get worse!


On a side note, does anyone have the stand for this TV that they are willing to sell? There is one on eBay but it's quite expensive.
 

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Been having to twist the frame of the kdl46xbr4 for over a year now to get the picture to snap back to good.
I have been aware of the probability that the tab bond issue was at fault but very apprehensive to actually tear apart the set to see.
Just yesterday, cruised this topic yet again, found the post by "the sony fixer", downloaded the manual from the link and proceeded to start removing screws....
Went pretty straightforward armed with the information from "onlytono","n1pr1ng", and "the sony fixer".
I was reluctant to power up the set while apart to find which bond might be suspect so opted to apply continuous strip of neoprene weather strip to apply pressure to all of them.
Upon reassembly, I only had three leftover screws!:)
The missus expressed concern over this and so re-removed back cover to locate the three ground straps where the fasteners belonged...
No more leftover screws...Hurray!!!

Set fired up and showed no signs of ghosting, dark half screen, and color shifts!! Yahhhoooo!!
Today still working properly!

Many, many thanks go out to those that discovered the issue and the fix as well as providing resources with which the fix could be implemented.
 

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My screen went black, stopped working, while fixing tab bond

I have a KDL-46XBR4 (mfg Nov 2007) that has the tab bond problem. I took it apart and was applying the rubber bumpers when the screen went black all of a sudden. It was powered up so I could 'see' if the bumpers were applying enough pressure on the tab. It seemed the rubber bumpers were going to fix the tab bond - I was just trying to get the right thickness. I don't know if I shorted something out or pinched a wire, etc. Any advice? Has anyone else experienced this? Is it truly now dead and not worth continuing? Thanks in advance for help.
 
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