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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I would make sure you have a battery backup for your projector, can really make the difference in cleaning up the power and in the event of a power outage at least you can power of the projector and still let it go through its cool down phase. So I would do basically an in wall rated extension cord that way you can do ceiling mounted projector to outlet, out let to male plug into the battery backup and battery backup into the dedicated outlet assigned for the projector.
The electrician that installed my sub panel suggested getting a UPS that installs in the electrical sub panel that protects the whole house... I haven't looked into it, but seems if i did this it would negate the need for installing a UPS or battery backup in the rack, or by the projector..
 

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If you catch it at the right time the JBL drivers for the BOSS systems go on sale for $29 at Best Buy. They can be driven by a very small amp - if you look at the threads there are many suggestions on which amp to use - personally I am running two of the JBL drivers off of Crutchfield's cheapest Audiosouce stereo amp. And they work REALLY well. The BOSS lends a feeling of realism that I've never felt out of Buttkickers or other tactile transducers. I think you would actually come out cheaper building the BOSS than with Buttkickers and the BOSS would work better. The wild card would be the cost of the plywood - which is insane these days - but still think it would be cheaper depending on how many chairs you were trying to supply with TR.

As to your UPS that sounds pretty good to me if the cost isn't prohibitive.
 

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The electrician that installed my sub panel suggested getting a UPS that installs in the electrical sub panel that protects the whole house... I haven't looked into it, but seems if i did this it would negate the need for installing a UPS or battery backup in the rack, or by the projector..
I have heard of whole home surge protectors but never a whole home UPS unless you have solar and a battery bank? Im assuming what he is selling you is actually a whole home surge protector and maybe a power conditioner, and I have heard mixed results with those systems which wont protect you from brown outs or power outages. I would still recommend a dedicated UPS, you dont need a massive one as you are only looking to keep it up long enough to handle small momentary blackouts and enough time to shut off the projector and run it through its cool down phase, something that is rated for like 350watts should do and those are pretty cheap.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Update on Progress

Installed the double door that leads back to a storage room (and the equipment room). Ordered the doors from Home Depot. They are both 1 3/4" solid slab doors, and they are custom size for the opening. As a result, they are taller than most doors, and VERY heavy. Home depot loaded the doors (all as a single unit on a pallet) into the back of my truck with a fork lift. I won't go into details, but it was a family effort to get the doors out of the truck. I know the doors look plain.. My plan is to add 1/2" MDF casing around the perimeter to match the other doors in the home.
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I have the support structure for the soffit up. The box sits 12" down from the ceiling and 17" out from the wall. A horizontal sheet of 3/4" MDF will hang on the under side and will extend out another 4.5".
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A little more detail on the support structure.. I used 4ft strips of drywall shim under the wall side furing strip to ensure the horizontal MDF piece is level... My ceiling drooped in areas up to 7/16"..
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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I could use some speaker help.

My plan was to have columns that are 16" wide by 8.5" deep in order to hold the HTM8 as my side and rear surrounds.

The issue is
#1) Availability... I'm not confident these will come in stock again this year... My drop dead date to have something in hand is ~November, but really i would like to have something by Aug/September
#2) Size.. The HTM8 is 12.5"W x 7.5"D x 16.75"H... Aesthetically speaking, i would rather have the columns at 5-6" depth. Second, the width is a concern.. 16" sounds like a lot, but there needs to be a ~13" wide hole for the speaker to go through in order to get the 12.5" speaker in and out. In order for the column to look good, there needs to be a trim piece casing the cavity, which will probably come to the edge of the column.. I would rather downsize the speakers than increase the size of the columns.. I don't really want my columns to be 8.5" deep, but was doing that to fit the speakers.
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So what other options are recommended to match with HTM12 fronts and 21" BTS Martys..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Bueller? c'mon, someone has to have some alternative speaker suggestions for the surrounds. What's a good set of speakers that will pair well with 21" BTS subs and HTM12 LCR that fit in columns that are 16"W x 6"D?

think this means the speaker should be ~9" wide and ~5" deep.. And I'm biased toward DIY, as it usually gets you more bang for the buck, but non-DIY is fine too..
 

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Im not entirely sure but I would look at some good in walls and just box them in.
 

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Bueller? c'mon, someone has to have some alternative speaker suggestions for the surrounds. What's a good set of speakers that will pair well with 21" BTS subs and HTM12 LCR that fit in columns that are 16"W x 6"D?

think this means the speaker should be ~9" wide and ~5" deep.. And I'm biased toward DIY, as it usually gets you more bang for the buck, but non-DIY is fine too..
These are $3k: JBL Synthesis SCL-3 Speaker and these are $2k: JBL Synthesis SCL-4 – USA Tube Audio

Any of the in-walls from the jbl synthesis line will be great In-wall Loudspeakers. 9” width takes my first two suggestions out, but there are plenty of others that would work for you.


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Backer boxes recessed into the wall itself at each column/surround location? Would potentially give you more depth, and hopefully a larger variety of choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Backer boxes recessed into the wall itself at each column/surround location? Would potentially give you more depth, and hopefully a larger variety of choice.
thought about this, but the columns won't align between the studs, and they are load bearing walls. Would be an extra project to create the space in the wall to recess the speakers in... I will give this more thought, but i think i would just build the columns out a bit more before doing the work to create the recess.
 

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Can the columns be shifted to get between the studs? Or will that completely ruin the layout?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Are there any examples where someone embedded an HTM8 into a column? What column thickness did they use for this? I maybe just need help visualizing how it will come together in an aesthetically pleasing way..

This is from the Merrimont Trace Theater -- It's an example of what i was trying to achieve..
Column Width is 15.5" and Depth is between 4.5" and 5" deep. He used the Polk Audio OWM5 (7" x 4-1/8" x 16").
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Can the columns be shifted to get between the studs? Or will that completely ruin the layout?
yeah, would ruin the layout at this point. holes in soffits for lights have been cut to align with column locations. And there are other obstacles that played into column spacing (e.g. doors)
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
These are $3k: JBL Synthesis SCL-3 Speaker and these are $2k: JBL Synthesis SCL-4 – USA Tube Audio

Any of the in-walls from the jbl synthesis line will be great In-wall Loudspeakers. 9” width takes my first two suggestions out, but there are plenty of others that would work for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is that the best comparison to the HT8 which has a ~$375 price point?? I guess for surround speakers, I'm looking for something under $500 per speaker. Surrounds just don't seem like the best place to blow the budget. Is the HT8 that good that there isn't a comparable in the same price range?
 

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How high up are you putting the surrounds? I have the angled volt8s for my surrounds and I put them about 60 inches from the floor. I then angled the tops of my columns out to hide the speakers. The volts are something like 12 inches wide and 9 inches deep at end top and 5 inches deep at the bottom. The bottom 60 inches of my columns are only 4.5 inches deep and with 2” of sound panel in between they barely stick out





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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
How high up are you putting the surrounds? I have the angled volt8s for my surrounds and I put them about 60 inches from the floor. I then angled the tops of my columns out to hide the speakers. The volts are something like 12 inches wide and 9 inches deep at end top and 5 inches deep at the bottom. The bottom 60 inches of my columns are only 4.5 inches deep and with 2” of sound panel in between they barely stick out





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crafty.. for my space, the side surrounds will come out at ear level, so ~4 ft up... Rear surrounds a little higher, and i might angle them down, but i will have more room to work with on the rear surrounds because i have built a cavity into the wall, so speakers will be recessed and column won't come out as far from the wall as the side columns will. I won't be able to recess the side surrounds due to wall obstructions i don't want to mess with
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
can someone help me with Atmos placement?
using RSL C34E speakers for atmos. I pulled from their website the vertical dispersion. looks great through 45 degrees, and still pretty darn good up to ~60 degrees...
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Ceiling will be roughly 8'6". Top row listener height is ~38" from ceiling, and bottom row listeners is ~54" from ceiling.

The RSL have a 15 degree angle built in, so they project out more in the direction pointed and less in the direction not pointed. In my case, i want to optimize for both rows to have a good listening experience. Why? because in 2.4:1 widescreen mode back row should be MLP and for 16:9 mode the front row will be MLP, but i digress...

So with the 15 degree angle, my calculations for good sound coverage from speakers are as follows,

FOR 60 DEGREE COVERAGE (shown in blue in picture below)
for bottom listening height:
max distance from speaker (direction pointed): 54" * tan(75) = 16'9"
min distance from speaker (away from direction pointed): 54" * tan(45) = 4'6"

for top row listening height:
max distance from speaker (direction pointed): 38" * tan(75) = 11'9"
min distance from speaker (away from direction pointed): 38" * tan(45) = 3'2"

FOR 45 DEGREE COVERAGE (shown in green in picture below)
for bottom listening height:
max distance from speaker (direction pointed): 54" * tan(60) = 7'8"
min distance from speaker (away from direction pointed): 54" * tan(30) = 2'7"

for top row listening height:
max distance from speaker (direction pointed): 38" * tan(60) = 5'6"
min distance from speaker (away from direction pointed): 38" * tan(30) = 1'8"


So I mapped this in two pictures...
Sound coverage if sitting with ears 38" from ceiling (back row):
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Sound coverage if sitting with ears 54" from ceiling (front row):
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Questions:
Am I doing this right? Did I interpret how the RSL speakers project their sound correctly?
Does anyone disagree with placement of ATMOS?
Does anyone disagree with how I have the ATMOS angled in order to maximize coverage to all seats?

There is a lot to consider here, and I'm not even sure if I understand how the speakers work... Some validation would be great :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Could look at the hsu research coaxial speaker for surrounds
Why? I'm not sure how this helps answer any of my ATMOS questions... What will the HSU research speaker do that the RSL can't?

I don't think there is something wrong with using the RSLs; I am just looking for some guidance so I do it right...
 
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