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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry, its midnight, my brain is fried. I will post up my almost final settings in the morning or tomorrow afternoon.


Short story. Red is the limiting factor (not terribly suprising in and of itself)

Blue level is too high. Some minimal filter would make MY UNIT almost perfect and probably give the contrast some major boosts. My red, when optimized 100% is 702:1, but in its current setup is about 689:1. Green I think is 422:1 and blue is a dissapointing 386:1. (approx values, remember I am fried) I think with filters both blue and green could come close to the 689:1 value red is showing, which would be a HUGE boost. Dont get me wrong, the image is amazing as is. But it could be better ;)



Ok onto the rest of the story. No green drive adjustments. So to make up for that I turn UP contrast, and down the red and blue contrast to match. That should in effect give you a green control.


Due to the red limits, the end contrast was actually -3, even though maximum green contrast was actually set at a +4. About 150 lumen difference.


Configured for maximum contrast, blue is way high, green about half as much. Green gives a perfectly flat response. Blue still has a huge hump at the low ire settings on a gamma scale. Red has a drop at
 

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I know settings are different from pj to pj, but it would be interesting to know what settings you're using. Thank you for all the great work you're doing on this pj. I think all 300u owners will benefit in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I woke up this morning about 45 minutes late, so no time to record my settings. But it might be a day or 2 before I get a chance, so...


From my memory, under normal mode.

cont -3

bright -1

(color and tint I will leave out, use avia to find out on your own system)


Gamma -

red contrast +5

blue contrast -3

red bright -3

blue cont -1


brightness was set by monitoring the actual lumen output of green, and lowering system brightness until it stopped changing. Red and blue were then done based off of that main brightness setting. Contrast was done the same way, but based off of a 100ire screen and maximum brightness. Due to the red limitations, the contrast had to be brought back down to -3 from its optimum +4 setting.


Does it look better? Yes. Its getting to be very good actually, some colors which were always "not quite right" in my rptv and in the stock settings on the device are now quite nice.


Is it too dark? No. Still more than bright enough on my HCCV 119" screen. I am a bit worried about what will happen when we come up with a filter solution, but I will continue working on it till its pretty close to being perfect.


Oh and BTW, A: Smart III rocks, and so do the people behind it.
 

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Thanks. I think you actually have color temp settings instead of gamma posted there (could you also give the white and black gamma settings). Would be nice if Smart came out with a projector specific version like they do with the some. Would make it a little easier, especially since some settings aren't as accessible with this projector.


When you do get a chance I'd love to hear what your final calibration settings are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok final settings.


Color temp

Red Contrast +6

Blue contrast -4

Red Bright -1

Blue Bright -4



Contrast -2

bright -3

gamma is 0 and 0. Not sure what gamma does that the contrast/brightness settings dont do. Maybe they just move red and blue around in some weird "users will like this" fashion vs giving you real direct controls.


This an almost ideal color balance from 30ire till 90. Red drops a bit (it is the limiting factor) at 90, and below 30 red drops a bit, and blue goes up an equal amount.


color temp is over 9000k until 30ire where it drops to 6500 kelvin. 90ire it goes up to about 7000 and up to maybe 7500 at 100.


Overall it looks very good, not perfect, but good.


Panasonic finally called me back today. "Im sorry sir we cant help you here, please call the business department." Of course they already turned me down....


Oh what joy.
 

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Thank you Scot. I assume that is still on Normal mode.


I'm no expert on Gamma, but my understanding is it is a logarithmic curve for output brightness. A good Gamma for film is suppose to be 2.4 I believe. I'm not sure if you can measure that with Smart, and how the gamma adjustments affect it. I've heard that Cinema 2 mode gives a gamma of 2.4, but I'm not sure of the others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right, that is what gamma designates, but in this case I am at a gamma of 2.4 after calibrating the basic color options under normal mode.


The "modes" are actually nothing special. Each one just sets the base contrast options for each color automatically. If you manually change them, you could potentially make all of the modes identical.


I think the gamma options just change the brightness/contrast in come amount for each color, but dont actually change the method of color reproduction. You are still limited, in the end, by the contrast and brightness.


Scot
 

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I am happy that I just got my AE300 and HTPC replaced after my break in...I am a littl ecurious as to how you are able to adjust the red, blue contrast and brightness seperately? Am I missing something here? I am a little baffled? Are you doing it within a software player or in the projector itself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Had to buy an adaptor. Its made by ibm, called the "Universal business adaptor." Fortunately it could plug right into the wall, but I feel sorry for the europeans who need another power adaptor for it as they are on worldwide backorder.


Oh and I had to use some server pixie dust (works find on the projectors.)


uhm.

ok its been a long week ;)


Just go into the menu, go to color temp, and scroll through the options. You will find one that says "User" select that and another screen will pop up letting you change red and blue's brightness and contrast.


Green is NOT adjustable in that menu, but you can set green with the base contrast/brighness and then modify the contrast for blue and red to make up for the green adjustment since it adjusts all three an equal amount.


(hopefully that makes some sense)


Now if you happen to know how to get into the factory mode I am all ears, even the pixie dust didnt help me get into that menu. (again, I am not talking about the flicker tweak screen)
 

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Quote:
Configured for maximum contrast, blue is way high, green about half as much. Green gives a perfectly flat response. Blue still has a huge hump at the low ire settings on a gamma scale. Red has a drop at
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Its similar, but not that close. I'll post up a cut and paste from the spreadsheet of my gamma either tonight or tomorrow to show you exactly what I mean. (I will NOT be posting the spreadsheet, just a picture of the gamme chart :) )


Steve: if there is a problem with this let me know and I wont post it.


Scot
 

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Scot,


Would there be any advantage over what you are doing in terms of calibrating the l300u with Smart III compared to what a Steve Smallcombe L300u-specific Smart III package would offer? Would he just make a recommendation for a filter, or something else as well? What do we need to do to get Steve to put together a L300u-specific package? I for one would by one!


Thanks,


Warren
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by wfrick
What do we need to do to get Steve to put together a L300u-specific package? I for one would by one!
I've been tempted to pick up a Smart III kit, but an L300 specific kit would definately push me over the edge!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The only things in the "kit" that are specific to the projector are the spreadsheet and the filter (if so ordered.)


As far as what is specific in the spreadsheet, its ONLY the suggested changes. In my case I originally tried to get an hs10, so the suggestions were geared for an hs10. So it says stuff like "Turn bias down -5" or "Turn green up 15%'


Not useful terminology in the case of the l300u. But of course I can reword that stuff in my head to make it applicable to the l300u.


Blue bias down -5 = blue BRIGHTNESS down a few. (a bit of trial and error is required to get the right number)


Now green up 15% is a bit more difficult. Since there is no "green" contrast (drive, gain whatever. same difference in this case). But if you go under the assumption that the overall contrast setting will increase all 3 an equal amount, you can up the "contrast" setting by 3 (or so) and decrease red and blue by the same.


Yes it requires a bit more trial and error, but it works just fine and I highly recommend the product. Also, the steve's seem to really want to support their product and give out great help.


(Steve 1: Sending it today, Steve 2: Thanks for the response, I Will be giving it a shot this weekend)


Ahh the joys of an obsessive compulsive, er, afficianado, watching TV.
 

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Scot certainly has it right about the specific versions. A projector specific version knows what controls are available to tweak and generally how much a given tweak will change the color balance or gamma tracking at a particular IRE level. This saves iterations and trial and error. A projector specific version also contains a general strategy for tweaking that projector, ideally based on my own experience. Chances are, however, that I can do most of this based on Scot's experience. Lets see what the weekends efforts produce.


Scot, so does that mean that I am Steve 2? ;-)


Steve (Smallcombe)
 

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I tried your settings last night and I found they gave the best colors of any settings I've tried. I did find the overall image quite dark though, so I increased contrast and brightness a few ticks. I then turned up red contrast and brightness one notch each to compensate. The color balance appears the same to the naked eye, but the image is a little brighter overall. Thank you again for all your hard work.
 

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I've got an L300U and just got my SMART III package yesterday, so once I get a chance to put it through its paces I'll share my findings as well.


I use an HTPC for everything (Holo3dGraph for Svideo deinterlacing, Zoomplayer for DVD, and MyHD for HDTV). I am going to try leaving the L300U settings fairly well alone to start with and see what kind of results I get from tweaking RGB individually through Powerstrip's color controls, as this seems like a promising alternative to get more precise control over RGB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Patja: Give yourself a whole bunch of time. It is not a quick process, though it isn't difficult at all.


Took me 19 runs (maybe 10-12 of them full) until I had "the best" I think my projector can do without a filter.


External rgb controls will not help unfortunately. They are useful in setting the being sent out of the computer to be appropriate going into the projector, but you need to use the internal contrast/brighness settings to properly use smart III.


Steve: heh yeah just responding to stuff in the order received ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm going to check out what it looks like with the cc40r tonight. I actually put one on yesterday, but was too braindead to actually make another run. Just eyeballed it.


Colors look good, but something "isnt right." Looks like bright stuff is spot on but below might not be right.



Might need a different color filter. We shall see.
 
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