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LOL, yes, not ready to die just yet. :)

In lack of being able to describe it, here's what I'm asking:

(1) Should I measure AC or DC?
(2) Point A and B is not really easy to make out. Probably base of the cap there, but not sure.
(3) Should I measure like this:

(3.1)


or (3.2)

 

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I'm in the process of checking out board B (the one that doesn't look fried) with the help of Sanway. They sent me this image and are asking me to measure the voltage at points A, B, C and D.



Do they mean I should put the multimeter at point (A and B) and then (C and D) to read the voltage?

So one prong at point A and the other one on B, it should read 11V, then one prong at point C and another one on point D and it should read 198V?

:D


I work on electronic equipment in a semiconductor wafer fab that manufactures IC's, and that question that you asked here on that PC board is a great question! I would highly recommend asking that exact question to Sanway to get clarification on the voltage measuring reference points. The question I would ask is, are these measurements between these combination of these points, or are these measurements in reference to chassis ground, or on some other reference point, or both. If you don't get the right reference point, the measurements won't mean a thing! There might be a slight English translation problem here. Most likely this is a DC voltage reading, but you should also get that clarified.

One other observation: That wire that is floating in the air above the two fuse holders on that pitcher of the bad PC board that you posted a ways back looks like a trace that popped up off the PC board during that catastrophic short circuit you had on that bad board. I've seen this happen in the past on some of the PC boards that I've had to repair in that wafer fab. It's surprising what kind of damage a catastrophic short circuit on a PC board can cause, and where it travels to. Especially in light of how much current this amplifier uses and puts out.
 

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LOL, yes, not ready to die just yet. :)

In lack of being able to describe it, here's what I'm asking:

(1) Should I measure AC or DC?
(2) Point A and B is not really easy to make out. Probably base of the cap there, but not sure.
(3) Should I measure like this:

(3.1)


or (3.2)

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Hi GizzeGutten,

In regards to your questions....

There technically is no + or - when reading AC since by AC's nature the signal is always transitioning between the two. The -11V is a DC voltage. Johnson could have said "-11VDC". The point on the copper is the heatsink and that would be your ground.
Hope this helps.

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In regards to *MY* issue posted just before yours, Johnson suggested I replace both octocoupler IC's on my "B" channel. He was 100% right. I ordered them from Mouser. got them today and swapped them out. Issue RESOLVED!
 

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Hey rms8,
Can u please post the part you replaced and photos of the repair location if possible?

This will likely be helpful to others as issues come up.

These amps have areas that get hot and without any airflow can burn parts fast. Was yours the version that does not turn fans on until a certain temp? I believe the temp sensor is only on channel A...
 

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-set correct dc setting for voltage range on multimeter
-black probe goes to chassis ground (earth wire)
-red probe goes to test point
(heatsink is NOT grounded, as it is test point !)

don't mess with electronics if you don't even know how to probe !
 

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Read through a bit of this thread and was curious how most of you felt about the amp overall. I understand some have issues and some work perfectly fine. I found a vendor who quoted me $733 shipped to MA. I am not sure what I would use the amp for at this time but, I figured why not?

My question is, do you think its worth getting or should I pick up two inuke6k for the relative same amount of money?
 

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Which vendor and is it the same product?
+1

Don't jump with your eyes close Lemonslush. We definitely don't want you to get burned by a shoddy clone vendor.:mad:
 

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Read through a bit of this thread and was curious how most of you felt about the amp overall. I understand some have issues and some work perfectly fine. I found a vendor who quoted me $733 shipped to MA. I am not sure what I would use the amp for at this time but, I figured why not?

My question is, do you think its worth getting or should I pick up two inuke6k for the relative same amount of money?
Most people have had success with the FP14K clone from Sanway which has been continually improved over the last couple of years.
I am not sure I would roll the dice with another vendor to save a couple of bucks.

It depends on how much power you need from the amp/channel. You can't hook two iNukes together...
 

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Most people have had success with the FP14K clone from Sanway which has been continually improved over the last couple of years.
I am not sure I would roll the dice with another vendor to save a couple of bucks.

It depends on how much power you need from the amp/channel. You can't hook two iNukes together...
I honestly don't know what I need for power now. I was thinking about getting some heavy duty drivers for a horn type design. I would assume at a minimum 2k rms per channel @ 4ohms.

I also looked at the Inuke12000 as an option.
 

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I honestly don't know what I need for power now. I was thinking about getting some heavy duty drivers for a horn type design. I would assume at a minimum 2k rms per channel @ 4ohms.

I also looked at the Inuke12000 as an option.
I would skip the iNuke12K, it is pretty much a turd for the price. There are better alternatives at that price point.

The 6000 will give you the 2K at 4 ohms you are after and very cheaply.

The clones are great amps when they work. If they don't, it can be a real headache too. If you don't want to deal want something you can return, get the iNuke6K.

2K per channel in a horn is some serious output. So, I would start with the 6K and see how that goes. I was using the 6K on a Lowarhorn and it was all the output I could use.
 

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This was the response I was looking for. Thanks Jpmst3 very much for the input.

I own several inukes already and having a bunch of amps that look the same on your Rac also looks cooler that having a hodgepodge IMO. More inukes it is!
 

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This was the response I was looking for. Thanks Jpmst3 very much for the input.

I own several inukes already and having a bunch of amps that look the same on your Rac also looks cooler that having a hodgepodge IMO. More inukes it is!
No sweat! They are hard to beat!
 

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Yes it is awesome to be able to settle on the same type of amplifier and then stack 5 to 10 of them. RAW POWER :) visually expressed. Only thing with behringer and other SMPS units, it is likely you will be replacing all of them in 5 years time. Even what is considered the high quality Yamaha P series, has all kinds of Caps that will prematurely leak in both the power supply and the amplifier boards. Its nice to get Cheap, but its also nice to get long lasting. Check out this yamaha P 5000 repair. If it was not a skilled self repair, you may as well just throw it away and buy a new one rather than take it in to get fixed.

 
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I cant remember if it was posted in here or not but has anyone swapped out the fans in the 10Q for some silent after market ones?

I am thinking about getting a 10Q after Xmas. BUT I also may just get a Fp14 instead. I am wanting 2400watts in 4ohms x 2 and nothing else comes close. Even if I spent500 more dollars I would not get as much power. The only other amp I would buy instead is a LOT more money than I want to spend right now. So 900 vs 2000 vs 3400. SO I think I will probably join the fray soon. Xmas I will have my 18's and then will order from there.
 
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