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@BassThatHz I have 4x18"s connected in series/parallel and then running on one cable out from my theater room into the equipment closet. Currently powered by an Inuke6000 in bridged mode. I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit and I don't care about fan noise a bit. I think I'm a perfect candidate to try out a Sanway 14000 as an upgrade to the Inuke. Would you agree or is there something I'm missing?
 

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And when do we get to see a video about that? Doubt you'd miss one
hehe!
I've already damaged one of my LMS-18's, no need to make the carnage worse. ;)
When I play Infrasonic Death at high wattage I can "make them clack" easily... I just haven't bothered to catch it on video.
(Video... or it never happened! 😛)
 

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@BassThatHz I have 4x18"s connected in series/parallel and then running on one cable out from my theater room into the equipment closet. Currently powered by an Inuke6000 in bridged mode. I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit and I don't care about fan noise a bit. I think I'm a perfect candidate to try out a Sanway 14000 as an upgrade to the Inuke. Would you agree or is there something I'm missing?
Cables are cheap, you'd be better off buy an XBS 20k and running 4 cables, unless you have some sort of limitation on cables.
Cables experience an efficiency loss at higher powers, adding more cables is a cheap way to gain some efficiency (you aren't gaining more power, just losing less.)

The XBS 20k has two power supplies, the Sanway 14k only has one. We figure each one delivers 4kW RMS. Once the capacitors are drained (which happens within milliseconds) then the only thing holding the RMS power up is the power-supply(s). Having two is "theoretically" twice as good. It doesn't improve the burst power, only the long-term power.

I needed 20k's because of their power-density.
I only have so-many free RU's, and knowing me I'll probably fill all of them with FP20k's. I currently have 8 FP's but "ideally" could easily use another 2 FP's for the subwoofers I already have; and if I add more 24's in the future, then I'll need even more FP's. 🙃
 

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Unfortunately I'm cable limited, I only put one cable conduit in when I built my room and it is maxed out! L/R/C/Atmos 1/Atmos 2/Sub 1/Sub 2 (split into 4 18's) so I learned a good future lesson, use a bigger conduit or just add a second one.

The Inuke 6000 is working driving all 4 over one cable so maybe I should just be happy with that.
 

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I received my sanway DSP-14k last week and was able to run it yesterday for the first time. So far it works except I get disconnected from the dsp software all the time. They think it might be my router so going to replace that first to see if it fixes the issue.

I watched a bunch of videos about dsp and rews so I’m going to try and get my subs aligned and setup this weekend as my XMC-2 came in yesterday also.

I believe I need to setup my subs first and then run Dirac. Should I leave my subs hooked up for the Dirac process after I run rews first?

Do I need to put a limiter on the amp to protect my HST-18’s in sealed boxes? Do I need a low end cut off also? Im not sure on that one since I’m sealed. I’m providing 30amps 220v to the amp.
 

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Do I need to put a limiter on the amp to protect my HST-18’s in sealed boxes? Do I need a low end cut off also? Im not sure on that one since I’m sealed. I’m providing 30amps 220v to the amp.
The limiter in this amp's dsp is not sophisticated enough to be useful for VC protection imo, I'd leave it off.
Even if you wanted to use it, you'll need a voltmeter to double check if the limiter works at all. The one in my DP-10Q is off by 4db. That's more than twice the power sent to the speaker than set up in the limiter.
 

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The limiter in this amp's dsp is not sophisticated enough to be useful for VC protection imo, I'd leave it off.
Even if you wanted to use it, you'll need a voltmeter to double check if the limiter works at all. The one in my DP-10Q is off by 4db. That's more than twice the power sent to the speaker than set up in the limiter.
Thank you. How would I know if I'm sending to much power to my subs? Is there anything to watch for?
 

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Thank you. How would I know if I'm sending to much power to my subs? Is there anything to watch for?
The voltmeter you hook up to the amp's output. iirc the maximum attack time on the limiter is 50ms, which can only protect your VCs while severly compromising the sound 99% of the time you probably won't need it. General practice (at least when it comes to the pro driver manufacturers) is to limit your long-term power to 1/10 of the program power and most of the time peak limiters are not even used anymore, unless you're driving a single 12" sub with a touring amp or so, which doesn't make sense to begin with. Again, I'd rather leave the limiter off, because it's not useful for proper subwoofer VC protection.
 

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The voltmeter you hook up to the amp's output. iirc the maximum attack time on the limiter is 50ms, which can only protect your VCs while severly compromising the sound 99% of the time you probably won't need it. General practice (at least when it comes to the pro driver manufacturers) is to limit your long-term power to 1/10 of the program power and most of the time peak limiters are not even used anymore, unless you're driving a single 12" sub with a touring amp or so, which doesn't make sense to begin with. Again, I'd rather leave the limiter off, because it's not useful for proper subwoofer VC protection.
ok. That honestly went right over my head but I understand the part where you say to leave it off.
 

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If the drivers is trying to pop out of the box or smells like burning, then it's probably close to dying / already damaged.
Heat and Excursion are how woofers die.

That's where clipping is bad, not only is it pure distortion, it also increases the strain on both the amp and the coils (by making them hotter) while offering no increased excursion benefits.

Even if you managed to send 14kW into a single cone, it would probably take at least 5 seconds to heat it up (assuming it didn't instantly bottom out and fly apart), I don't think even 14kW is enough to instantly flash the coil like a nuclear exposion in 1ms etc, it takes a few seconds for the heat to build up, but it doesn't take long. There are many 240V wallsocket woofer destruction vids on youtube if you want to see how quickly heat/excursion can build up.

If you accelerate the coil fast enough it will attempt to exit out through the dust cap. Ripped surrounds, mushroomed cones and coils are common in car comps when trying to hit 194db with a million watt burp. Magic smoke from the amps and subs is almost expected in that case.
 

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@BassThatHz I'm going to remove all the cables from the smurftube and try to pull some denser cables. That will let me run all four 18's off of an FP20k instead of trying to run them all off one channel of an FP14k. Does anyone know if the price Sanway quotes you on an FP20k has any negotiating room or is the price set in stone?
 

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Only way to find out is ask Sanway if they'll accept the price you have in mind.
 

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@BassThatHz I'm going to remove all the cables from the smurftube and try to pull some denser cables. That will let me run all four 18's off of an FP20k instead of trying to run them all off one channel of an FP14k. Does anyone know if the price Sanway quotes you on an FP20k has any negotiating room or is the price set in stone?
I got them to come down on shipping.
 

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If the drivers is trying to pop out of the box or smells like burning, then it's probably close to dying / already damaged.
Heat and Excursion are how woofers die.

That's where clipping is bad, not only is it pure distortion, it also increases the strain on both the amp and the coils (by making them hotter) while offering no increased excursion benefits.

Even if you managed to send 14kW into a single cone, it would probably take at least 5 seconds to heat it up (assuming it didn't instantly bottom out and fly apart), I don't think even 14kW is enough to instantly flash the coil like a nuclear exposion in 1ms etc, it takes a few seconds for the heat to build up, but it doesn't take long. There are many 240V wallsocket woofer destruction vids on youtube if you want to see how quickly heat/excursion can build up.

If you accelerate the coil fast enough it will attempt to exit out through the dust cap. Ripped surrounds, mushroomed cones and coils are common in car comps when trying to hit 194db with a million watt burp. Magic smoke from the amps and subs is almost expected in that case.
well hopefully this doesn’t happen
 

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The XBS FP20k is more powerful than the Sanway 20k, if I recall the Sanway only has 1 power supply. So there would be no point running more cable in that case. All of the 20k's and 14k's have roughly the same total burst, somewhere around 13-16kW, but the XBS 20k has two power supplies, so theoretically twice the RMS of the single power supply variants. (and that's why I bought it...)

The XBS FP20k and Sanway FP14k have comparable quality components inside. The XBS FP22k and FP24k is the one that has the weird / hairbrained one-off design (hence why I didn't buy it.)

In any case, all of them are more powerful than any ipuke, so you can't go too horribly wrong.

Now if you want something is that actually guaranteed-robust, then you'll need to pay PowerSoft / Gruppen level money. Things that ACTUALLY come with a money-back warranty and certified-testing / quality-control. Usually only the industrial professionals can afford those, the types that would actually power a legit concert with 20000 people attending or a football stadium on game-night. Gear that you'd actually bet your reputation/career as an installer on.

Just like there are 3 main types of computers:
1) Civilian garbage-grade (unreliable RGB-class, with no driver/FW/HW support after 1 year... or less) 128GB ram or less. i7/i9/Threadripper

2) Business-grade which are guaranteed to last 5 years or free 24/365 replacement of it (the stuff running your accounting system and revenue-generating stuff). 2TB ram, 10-100gb networking etc. Xeon/Epyc (You usually don't even get THIS level of quality in the AV world. 1 out of 40 dead tweeters/amps in the middle of a show just aren't important-enough. Whereas a broken SAP system could cripple a business if the paychecks don't print every 2 weeks, it's definitely more-important and the hardware shows it.)

3) and then Supercomputer-grade, where they buy custom 64core+ CPU's made of pure quantum-unobtanium by the 100's of thousands, PB's of ram and EX's of disk, 400gb+ networking, and have direct Intel/AMD/NV on-site system engineers / software programmers to build / maintain it. The Google's and Microsoft's and Amazon's, and DOE's of the world...
We peasant sheeple are not worthy.
 

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This thread is huge so forgive me if this has been asked 100 times already but will these work on a 20A 230V breaker?

Looking at the current draw it should but I have seen people talking about 30A wiring. I already have 20A 220V outlets installed.

Is the 20000q still preferred over the 22000q?
 

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This thread is huge so forgive me if this has been asked 100 times already but will these work on a 20A 230V breaker?
If you're asking if there are 220v version of the amps, then yes. I have on a 30a 220v circuit.

Is the 20000q still preferred over the 22000q?
I'd say yes.
 
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