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I doubt very seriously I'm using all the power my FP20k can dish out. Running mine on a 30a 240v circuit. You'd be amazed how many guys on here actually think they're dump 5kw-10kw of continuous power into their system on a 15a 120v circuit.
My FP-13k had no issues tripping 16C breakers at 230V and playback at high levels dimmed the lights in my HT room (long 15AWG runs).
Once I hooked it up to a 32A 230V circuit and tested it to its bones the main input transistors of the PSU blew up (~35$ in damage, note that this was the 2013 model with the old PSU with 4 fans).
30A on 240V gives you about 6KW of sustained power output at 85% amp efficiency, which could probably melt 8 21ds115 if you keep that up for long enough. People overestimate real long term average power a lot. Modern high power touring amps are 'only' made to sustain maybe 1/4th of their burst power and that's totally fine, because it's a good match for subwoofers, because those also just handle a fraction of their pogram power if you're talking (real, actual) long time average.
 

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People overestimate real long term average power a lot. Modern high power touring amps are 'only' made to sustain maybe 1/4th of their burst power and that's totally fine, because it's a good match for subwoofers, because those also just handle a fraction of their pogram power if you're talking (real, actual) long time average.
This. Note the explanations from crown on 1/3 and 1/8 power on this current draw and thermal dissipation table.



I can confirm I’ve had two of em touching red lights on a single dedicated 20A 120.
No pop. Which, by the table, is expected.

I avoid more than touching clip. I prefer not to make stinky slinkies out of good drivers.

Chris
 

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I am only using 3 of the 4 channels on my FP20Q, so no, I'm not using all the power it can dish out 😉 But I will say I've hit the red clipping lights on mine regularly when doing demos. I have to watch the amp to know how high I want to put the volume so I don't damage the amp send a clipped signal to the subs. My 24s are in relatively small boxes though (2 of them are 8 cu ft and the other is 14 cu ft). I've got the amp on a 230v 30a circuit as well, but from the tests done on AVS I think the amp only pushes about 2000w rms x 4, about double that burst power. Won't be doing that on a 120v 15a line for sure @johnson636 😉
 
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The Crown DCI amps are really nice amps. They are pricey though 😬
 

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The Crown DCI amps are really nice amps. They are pricey though
I shouldn’t say anything, since I’m still after one or two specific models, but...

Ebay used isn’t too bad. Still more $ per watt than clones by far, but nowhere near msrp. I’ve never gotten a dud.

Chris
 

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Ya, I have one SKram going and it will melt your face off at 100 watts lol.
I can absolutely make my 20q clip on my 24s if I want to. Low bass uses a lot of juice (when not in a horn) lol
 

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Would I notice much a difference upgrading from on inuke 6k to an FP20k on 2 Devastators with NSW’s, one channel per sub? i already use one FP20 on 4 Danley DTS-10’s and want another anyway but there are other things I also want....ha
 

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Sinobsen FP20K by the way
 

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If you tell my wife about this, I'll mail you today's dirty diapers.
If I could tell your wife, then you'd probably have more to worry about than just subwoofers, although that depends on how hot she is and if she likes cheating and shorter/smaller guys. (Something tells me she doesn't.) Nah, I don't live in the UK with a HT full of cats, I wouldn't stoop that low on you... I have more class than that you see! 😛
 

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And no, this question is not meant for you, BTH, I know that you're crazy :p
But I'll answer the question regardless... 😅
No I rarely ever clip that many amps and woofers, now if I only had 1 clone then yeah I'd probably clip it to death trying to reach the SPL I prefer.
My MBM's hit 115db @ 10ft @ 2 watts rms. So there is really no way to clip the amp before fully bleeding out your brain-matter via your ear holes.
I have 30w tweeters being driven with no passive protection directly from the clone output. Clipping is nearly unpossible in my system, the driver or your ears are the limits, not the amps. (Not above 40hz at least...) Never-enough infrasonics!
 

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Would I notice much a difference upgrading from on inuke 6k to an FP20k on 2 Devastators with NSW’s, one channel per sub? i already use one FP20 on 4 Danley DTS-10’s and want another anyway but there are other things I also want....ha
How does the two devastators compare to the DTS-10s?
 

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If I could tell your wife, then you'd probably have more to worry about than just subwoofers, although that depends on how hot she is and if she likes cheating and shorter/smaller guys. (Something tells me she doesn't.) Nah, I don't live in the UK with a HT full of cats, I wouldn't stoop that low on you... I have more class than that you see! 😛
Hahaha I don't think you'd have much luck! Mainly because she prefers that UK accent and a man who loves cats.... If one of those comes along, I'm screwed!! 😂 Luckily the one I'd be worried about is across the pond...
 

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I went ahead and ordered a second FP20k that will replace a inuke 6k and a face audio amp. Will I have to adjust delays in minidsp for each sub? Or will delays remain the same since just the amp is being replaced.
 

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I believe the delays will remain the same unless you've moved the subs?
 

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Ok cool, no haven’t moved anything. Thanks!
 

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Well, I had a few days with the LF clone this weekend. Didn't blow up.... So that's something lol.
The fan is a bit quieter than the sanway 20q.
Power wise? Nothing audible, nothing noticeable vs the sanway 20q.
Reliability? I guess only time will tell.
 

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Well, I had a few days with the LF clone this weekend. Didn't blow up.... So that's something lol.
The fan is a bit quieter than the sanway 20q.
Power wise? Nothing audible, nothing noticeable vs the sanway 20q.
Reliability? I guess only time will tell.
I could barely tell a difference between my unbridged 14k and my unbridged 20k, the difference is like maybe 1db, except that the 20k can power 4 subs and thus has about twice the power density and value for the money!

If you have a large array of subs one or more 20k's will be the better-value, if you need unlimited-power into a single 4-ohm load then a bridged 14k is about as good as it gets.

The Sanway 20k and XBS 20k probably both burst about the same (somewhere around 14-16kW I'd guess), and so unless you really really push them hard with sustained sinewaves or such, then you probably aren't gonna be able to drain the capacitors enough to notice the difference, and even then the difference isn't gonna be more than 0-3db.

On measured paper the dual power supplies probably help some, but in the real-world, beyond heating water-elements, you'll be hard pressed to tell a big difference...
A massive increase in Watts doesn't always (rarely) translates into a massive increase in acoustical-db's, the rest is turned into coil-heat and heat-sink heat. The only time that isn't true is when the number of coils and channels increases with the amplifier count, then you get a predictable increase.

Short of living in a small reinforced concrete coffin there is no practical way to hit 180-194db, or even 150-170db for that matter. As soon as you have windows, doors and ducts the SPL escapes.
It is sort of like approaching the speed of light, every bit more takes exponentially more resources.
Going from 2kW rms to 4.4kW is barely 3db, and few amps go any louder for a given channel (and if they do... it's probably <1s burst-only type stuff.)

You'd basically have to have something like: 4 SHS-24's or 32's and a TermLab to even think of being able to detect any acoustical difference; smaller cones would probably bottom/melt before the amplifier hits the limits and a UMIK-1 doesn't go loud-enough neither.
 

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In the end, I expected absolutely no differences in SQ or otherwise. I needed one more and figured I'd give LF a shot since they are CDN.

I level matched and played a few movies I know at levels I normally watch and and no smoke.... So all went well. Lol.

One thing I noticed is, from Turing on the switch to green and fan ramp down was probably 1/4 of the time the Sanway takes. The initial check is like 1 second before the fans rap down and it is goes green in about 2-3 seconds.... Which is pretty damn fast vs any other amp I have, even faster than the sp12000 it's replacing.
 
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