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It may run a 2 ohm load, but I doubt it will be stable.
 

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I was gonna ask how hot your attic gets in summer but looks like you’re in Buffalo so probably not an issue. Nice space to run all your wires up there and stash equipment.
That attic room will see in excess of 120*F...(or whatever that guy said it was in C, haha). Because it’s an addition to the rack below it, it’ll be enclosed, insulated, and vented into the garage below anyway. So the fresh air going into it will almost never exceed 70-80*F. It is a wide open space right now but there will be an enclosure and fan setup in the future.
Honestly, if I can seal up the rack well enough with glass doors and weather seal, I may be able to run it in the rack without too much noise.
 

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That attic room will see in excess of 120*F...(or whatever that guy said it was in C, haha). Because it’s an addition to the rack below it, it’ll be enclosed, insulated, and vented into the garage below anyway. So the fresh air going into it will almost never exceed 70-80*F. It is a wide open space right now but there will be an enclosure and fan setup in the future.
Honestly, if I can seal up the rack well enough with glass doors and weather seal, I may be able to run it in the rack without too much noise.
That makes a lot of sense, that’ll be a nice setup and the fans can blast away up there.
 

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Thanks for specifying the specific plug. Made it easy to track down the correct receptacle to order to plug my FP20k in to. I'm anxious to hear your thoughts on the fans. Im debating on wiring mine into the living room entertainment center or putting it in the guest room behind. If I put in living room I will build a cabinet with a fan to cool, and some kind of sound absorbing panels in it.
I got my L6-30R receptacle in, and it is the wrong one. It’s bigger then the actual plug, but similar prongs. Anyone know what specific plug it’d be?
 

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You can just replace your current plug with one that is meant for your receptacle.
 

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I’m all over the place trying to decide on an amp but the FP20000Q would work well except for the fans. I see Simbosen updated it a bit with fans on the back. Does the change make it any harder to do a fan mod?
 

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All their (coolimit) fans are high rpm and loud....it is quite difficult to find a silent fan with same airflow to keep things cool.
The 60x20 fan is powered by 20VDc constantly...the 80x25 fan is temp controlled, on the same output 4 small backside fans are connected.

I have connected the 60x20 fan to the output for the other fans (so all are temp controlled now) + i have added a switch (used the "remote control" gab with a proper 6-pole switch), so the backside fans can be switched of to reduce fan noise during "light" operation.

The internal electronics (max. 1.5A) seems to hold the extra fans.
 

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All their (coolimit) fans are high rpm and loud....it is quite difficult to find a silent fan with same airflow to keep things cool.
The 60x20 fan is powered by 20VDc constantly...the 80x25 fan is temp controlled, on the same output 4 small backside fans are connected.

I have connected the 60x20 fan to the output for the other fans (so all are temp controlled now) + i have added a switch (used the "remote control" gab with a proper 6-pole switch), so the backside fans can be switched of to reduce fan noise during "light" operation.

The internal electronics (max. 1.5A) seems to hold the extra fans.
Does making them all temp controlled help at all?
 

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A little.....the 60x20 is from factory running @ 20volts constantly (so allways reaching quite high rpm).
The temp controlled fans are getting 13volts in idle (so this will be also more quiet for the 60x20 fan.
Once this thing heat up, it goes controlled to 24volts for all fans.....so also more cooling on 60x20mm (max. was 20volt, now 24volt).....so cooling is improved.

Making backside switchable makes it more quite in idle (only 4 fans running @13volts, instead of 10 on 13volts and 2 on 20volts).
 

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I received a FP20000Q last night. Its just a little too loud for my setup so I started working on a fan mod. I didn't finish it but I'm pretty close. It really is not difficult at all. The four interior fans were secured with only two screws at the top. So you just pull those out, open up the bottom of the amp and they come right out. I am doing it a little differently than I've seen on these forums. I wanted to use 12v fans since those are much easier to come by than 24v quite fans. So I used converters. I have no idea if that's a bad idea or not, but it seemed like it should work, and it was working fine during my testing. Also, I didn't want to mess around with solder on the amp boards so I clipped the wires from the existing fans and spliced everything in. All that's left for those 4 fans is: 1) to solder the connections to the converter. 2) I need to tuck everything away better bc when I tried to close it back up to see if it was all good I couldn't get the top completely closed to align the screw holes on the rear. I think the issue may just the wire jackets on the 2 big fans, so hopefully all ill have to do is cut that away and problem will be solved.

Last part is the 40mm fans on the back: I have a few ideas for those, but I don't think it should be all that difficult. They are basically secured to the back of the chassis so I may not even connect them to the amp and just power them off of a switched outlet. Will play around with it later today, and see how it goes.
 

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Hello, another lurker here who decided to finaly create an account:D

I'm not sure this is the right thread to post this. Let me know if it isnt.

Anyone tried the HT-10Q from sanway? I asked for a FP10kq with more silent fans and they suggested this one.
It has RCA connectors instead of XLR, regular speaker wire connectors and fan speed are adjusted with a knob om the rear.

I am looking for one or two amps for 4 Um18's in minimarties and 9 PA460. The PA460 are wired 3 boxes paralell for 3x 2.67 ohm. Wich can be seried for a 8 ohm load again.

Currently (was) using 2x nx6000d for 4 um18, 1 nx3000d for 6 PA460, and emotiva xpa-5 for the last 3 pa460.

2 weeks ago my 13 month old nx6000d died. Powersupply I guess. Died silent while watching a movie. Didn't notice it was dead before I was going to shut everyting off.

Local dealer has now stopped selling the nx6000 due to many problems with them.

So I am looking for one or two amps to power this setup and has been looking at the fp10k, fp14k and FP20k.
Have got prices from sanway, sinbosen and smiths.
Fan noice is a bit of concern. All my NX amps are fan modded. The 6000 really didn't need it, but the 3000 was a bit loud.

Original plan was to use the nx6000d (before one died) and buy a nx4-6000 for the 9 PA460 (3 channels at 2.67 ohm each). Since these two amps use the same powersupply, I'm not sure I want to go this route..

Seems like the um18 in minimarty has a minimum impedance at about 5 ohm at tuning frequency, and 3x PA460 2.3 ohm ( if that matters)

Any suggestions?
 

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Finished up my fan mod on the FP20000Q. Used all 12v fans so it’s not the most elegant solution but seems to work and it’s not too difficult. The eight 40mm fans are a little time consuming and involves two connectors sticking out of the back sandwiched between the fan mount and the chassis. Ran them into a single gang box where the converters are. Used noctua 40x10 fans and had to use the rubber screws they include with their fans. Neither the noctua screws or the original screws worked. So there are the little rubber tips sticking out the back which also isn’t pretty but is no big deal. Will have to see over time how it holds up. Haven’t been able to push it yet as my deliveries have been delayed so just a single sub connected to it now. Hoping by the end of the month I’ll have the new two subs running with the other two ordered.
 
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I received a FP20000Q last night. Its just a little too loud for my setup so I started working on a fan mod. I didn't finish it but I'm pretty close. It really is not difficult at all. The four interior fans were secured with only two screws at the top. So you just pull those out, open up the bottom of the amp and they come right out. I am doing it a little differently than I've seen on these forums. I wanted to use 12v fans since those are much easier to come by than 24v quite fans. So I used converters. I have no idea if that's a bad idea or not, but it seemed like it should work, and it was working fine during my testing. Also, I didn't want to mess around with solder on the amp boards so I clipped the wires from the existing fans and spliced everything in. All that's left for those 4 fans is: 1) to solder the connections to the converter. 2) I need to tuck everything away better bc when I tried to close it back up to see if it was all good I couldn't get the top completely closed to align the screw holes on the rear. I think the issue may just the wire jackets on the 2 big fans, so hopefully all ill have to do is cut that away and problem will be solved.

Last part is the 40mm fans on the back: I have a few ideas for those, but I don't think it should be all that difficult. They are basically secured to the back of the chassis so I may not even connect them to the amp and just power them off of a switched outlet. Will play around with it later today, and see how it goes.
Did you measure the voltage going to the fans from the amp at idle?
 

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Did you measure the voltage going to the fans from the amp at idle?
I did not. If its receiving more than 12 volts then it should be outputting 12 volts. I measured the converter before i did the interior fans just to make sure it was working. Probably should have tested the voltage once i connected it, but i didnt.
 

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I did not. If its receiving more than 12 volts then it should be outputting 12 volts. I measured the converter before i did the interior fans just to make sure it was working. Probably should have tested the voltage once i connected it, but i didnt.
How is the temperature of the fp20kq now with the fan mod? someone earlier in this thread stated that it got really hot with stock fans...
what load are you running it at?
 

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How is the temperature of the fp20kq now with the fan mod? someone earlier in this thread stated that it got really hot with stock fans...
what load are you running it at?
im not sure how hot it gets yet and I’m not pushing it hard at all right now. But I’ll be running two 4 ohm loads once my stuff comes in. 18” drivers. Then I’ll probably add another two. But I did just put in som AC infinity stuff last night so I can use that to get an idea of how hot it gets and report back.
 

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3081635

I picked this up and will try to put my FP22000Q in it with everything else and see how loud it gets. I’ll be adding weather seal to the front and back doors to reduce rattles and to make sure it’s sealed to keep the fan noise in. I have (4) 120v fans for intake/exhaust that I want to plumb outside of the room to keep the noise floor as low as possible.
Initially I was going to put the clone amp on a separate rack in the attic, but I’ll try this first. I also have (2) YamahaXM6150s I may putting in the rack as well. So I went from no amps in the rack to having 3 of them... we will see how it goes.

@dwander - do you have any pics of your fan mods?
 

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View attachment 3081635
I picked this up and will try to put my FP22000Q in it with everything else and see how loud it gets. I’ll be adding weather seal to the front and back doors to reduce rattles and to make sure it’s sealed to keep the fan noise in. I have (4) 120v fans for intake/exhaust that I want to plumb outside of the room to keep the noise floor as low as possible.
Initially I was going to put the clone amp on a separate rack in the attic, but I’ll try this first. I also have (2) YamahaXM6150s I may putting in the rack as well. So I went from no amps in the rack to having 3 of them... we will see how it goes.

@dwander - do you have any pics of your fan mods?
I dont have any that would be helpful. Just one after the interior fans were installed. I was going to document it but it was much easier than I anticipated. If you take off the top and bottom of the chassis then its pretty self explanatory. I chose not to mess with the amp board and spliced the wires instead of de-soldering and soldering. Besides that you just have to be careful flipping it over while working bc the boards are pretty lose without the top and bottom attached.
 
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