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Just a heads up, I reset the Marantz and cranked up the gain for the sub, and now I’m getting somewhere. When I get back into the basement I’ll grab the latest settings in the miniDSP, the Marantz, and the amp and hopefully everything is set safely, and then I can take it from there.
 

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Hello fellow basslings! I just got mine in early this week. Upgraded from an NX6000d to a Sinbosen fp20000 or 20q or d20; whatever they call it. I just asked for the fp20000. It is now powering my dual LaVoce san21's. On my NX6000d I was running out of power and clipping on some scenes(especially if dynamic EQ was on, which I now turn off when watching hard disks). I went with the fp20000 as I still have a bit of a null and have ordered saf18's for the back.

My settings, please correct me if I'm wrong:

44db gain
195v VPL
Soft mode
This next sentence is what was important for me in terms of power and headroom.
I have the front knobs turned to about 2:30 position and turned the gain down to about -12 before running REW and Audyssey. This was plenty loud to start. After Audyssey and PEQ's from REW, I am at -1.5 on the minidsp and -11 on Audyssey. I run a house curve of 8db to 40hz and 2db hot on the AVR.

Impressions:
This thing is heavy!
This thing is loud! I do have a media closet that all my equipment is in and really helps. I can still hear it, but it isn't noticeable at listening levels, unless watching a slient movie like "A Quiet Place". I sit about 13 feet away from my closet and there are multiple fans inside.

One of my fans on the back of the fp20 was making a buzzing noise that is very annoying. I contacted Dan and haven't heard back but located the problem and just had to pry it back a bit as it was slightly hitting a heat sink.

Definitely a noticeable difference in power from the NX6000. It looks like my subs want to jump out of their boxes in some scenes in John Wick 2 and War of the Worlds; this never happened with the NX6. I also want to point out that while it feels louder, I haven't hit any clip lights on the miniDSP or the amp. Before I would slightly clip the NX6d

There is an annoying hum on startup coming from the subs that sounds like a ground issue but disappears after a little bit.

Conclusion:
I LOVE this amp. It does everything I need it to. I just wish it was quieter but that is no longer a big concern after sticking it in the closet and turning things up. The benefits outweigh the 2 issues for me; loud fans and the buzzing which I was able to fix.

3085001
3085002
3085006
 

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It looks like my subs want to jump out of their boxes in some scenes in John Wick 2 and War of the Worlds; this never happened with the NX6. I also want to point out that while it feels louder, I haven't hit any clip lights on the miniDSP or the amp. Before I would slightly clip the NX6d
So the woofers flew to the moon and back did they? 😅
and just think, that's less than 50% power yet. (Now bridge it... hehe! 😅)
A legit 2kW RMS x quad 4-ohm and 5kW burst x quad 2-ohms is no joke...
and if that's still not enough... then buy 4 bridged FP14k's for ~14kW per woofer instead of ~4kW, like ~5db louder! :p

Be careful with the 20k and 14k FP's, they can easily burst enough juice to insta-bottom MOST woofers.
At 8-ohms I can bottom a pair of LMS-18's (which have 80mm xmech.)

My SAB-24 is 2-ohm's has like 104mm xmech and even THAT is almost not-enough clearance to fully handle a single channel of FP20k 2ohm-power at some frequencies; and that's in a hyper-small sealed box! In a larger box with less air-spring resistance I think it might actually be possible to bottom it. o_O
 

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So the woofers flew to the moon and back did they? 😅
and just think, that's less than 50% power yet. (Now bridge it... hehe! 😅)
A legit 2kW RMS x quad 4-ohm and 5kW burst x quad 2-ohms is no joke...
and if that's still not enough... then buy 4 bridged FP14k's for ~14kW per woofer instead of ~4kW, like ~5db louder! :p

Be careful with the 20k and 14k FP's, they can easily burst enough juice to insta-bottom MOST woofers.
At 8-ohms I can bottom a pair of LMS-18's (which have 80mm xmech.)

My SAB-24 is 2-ohm's has like 104mm xmech and even THAT is almost not-enough clearance to fully handle a single channel of FP20k 2ohm-power at some frequencies; and that's in a hyper-small sealed box! In a larger box with less air-spring resistance I think it might actually be possible to bottom it. o_O

They sure did fly to the moon and back. I didn't know these huge things could do that. Only thing that concerns me is pushing them too hard as I don't really know how to limit the amp.
 

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Ok, I’ll be changing that today!
(I’m only using 1/2 of the green bar as it is, so I’m not approaching clipping levels anyway - if I have that right... now I’m questioning everything!)
 

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Be careful with the 20k and 14k FP's, they can easily burst enough juice to insta-bottom MOST woofers.
That's why I have B&C woofers :)

From all my reading, which was a lot and I'm still a bit lost. My takeaways are 44db, 195v and soft. Other than that, turn it up and hold on!
It's only natural that you're lost searching for limiter settings. Those amps only come with clip limiters, which are pretty useless for subwoofer duty, unless you wanna completely cripple your headroom. But definitely soft. Hard is just plain clipping.
 

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My takeaways are 44db, 195v and soft. Other than that, turn it up and hold on!
With the speakon's unplugged you should be able to JUST clip the amp with a -3db sinewave (say 60hz), WITHOUT clipping the processor or miniDSP.
Whatever value that is, is the correct value, it may or may not be a sens of 44db.
The input and output of the DSP should not be clipping (or it should clip at the same time as the amp.)
This requires that the average output of the DSP be 0.1 to 1db higher than the input, otherwise the input will clip before the output, which is just a waste of headroom and early/unnecessary distortion.

If you have midget gremlins running around, you might want to turn the input attenuators all the way up and then in the processor and DSP turn the trims down to their lowest level. This way drunk teenagers can't blow the system by: turning up "the knobs".
This then allows you to increase the level without have to walk over to the rack. But if you don't have enough digital negation you might not be able to get away with it, it might still be too loud, but just thought I'd mention it anyway.

I always set my amps to max volts, even when powering 20w tweeters. I don't see any real purpose in limiting the amps, especially for subwoofers... unless maybe the DSP software didn't have one and one was required for some reason. Reducing limit will just cause early clipping (which is always bad and will sound horrible), and it will also limit the mid-bass. Subwoofers are hungriest between 1-10hz and above 40hz, because they will either be approaching DC min-resistance or not in the excursion-limited zone anymore.
 

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I took the cover off of my FP20k that I bought 2nd hand. The previous owner said that it is set up for 240v, but I figured I’d check to be sure. The inside of the amp doesn’t look like the amp internals in the manual, that shows how to swap from 110 to 240. I guess I’ll take his word for it, because I don’t want to have to take any more pieces loose from the amp to check. Is there an easy way to check that I’m not aware of?
3085487
 

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I took the cover off of my FP20k that I bought 2nd hand. The previous owner said that it is set up for 240v, but I figured I’d check to be sure. The inside of the amp doesn’t look like the amp internals in the manual, that shows how to swap from 110 to 240. I guess I’ll take his word for it, because I don’t want to have to take any more pieces loose from the amp to check. Is there an easy way to check that I’m not aware of?
View attachment 3085487
On mine I had to turn it upside down and check on the bottom.
 

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I really don’t want to dig into my 22k to see if they’re the same, but if you don’t get a good response here, try [email protected] and ask my sales rep, I’m sure that she would be happy to help. If you don’t get anywhere, I’ll open mine up for you.
 

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Looks the same as the guide xbs just sent me. Only typo I think is the fuse quantity so not 100% on that.

It also looks like it has an fp10000q power supply board(not sure on technical name of it)? Looks like a 1 after fp under the power cable wires to the board. Really not sure on fuse count then.
 

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I have a FP10000Q and did the 110 to 220v conversion. There are instructions in the Manual, but they are a bit vague. I did ask Sinbosin, and they sent this. Looking at your picture, I would think one fuse should be removed. It does appear that B & C are connected. Before you do anything I would wait for input on the FP20000Q.
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