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Ok, this is going to be one of those "should I switch to a ..." inquiries, but might seem far-fetched. Here goes ...

Have a 55" EF9500. A little tired of some of its limitations, but don't want to spend another $1K+, so thinking about either:
Hisense H9G
TCL 635

Both in 55" (I honestly do not feel any desire to up-size).
I'll buy your EF9500 for $125 if you really don't like it.
 

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You are mixing so many sources/inputs (that I don't consider UHD quality) that I'm not sure you are getting a fair comparison. First off, the XBOX-S is not one of the better UHD players...and I'm not even sure how the Fire TV rates (probably not much better than my Roku--which is UHD capable). Even worse, the only title you mentioned that I consider "prime UHD/HDR quality" is Bosch (all seasons); Westworld is not shot in 4k and only the last season of The Expanse is shot in 4k (although the other seasons are some of the best HD quality I've ever seen). Until you play something like The Martian/Blade Runner/John Wick on a good hardware source (see my sig), you're not really exercising the HD Deep Color and WCG settings of the TV (have you done a proper calibration?).

I guess what I'm saying is I'm still 'wowed' by this TV on high-quality source material (like the John Wick fights in the mirror/breaking glass sequences) after 5 years and over 10,000 hours of 'up time' (although I now set dynamic contrast on low for HDR content).
My set has been calibrated and the calibrator told me the majority of hdr content will not look correct without enabling Dynamic Contrast.
Only issue I get is fluctuating brightness during some scenes.
 

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My set has been calibrated and the calibrator told me the majority of hdr content will not look correct without enabling Dynamic Contrast.
Only issue I get is fluctuating brightness during some scenes.
That is interesting, thanks for sharing that. I always liked the look of dynamic contrast better but it's nice to hear its recommended by a professional calibrator. Did he happen to mention which setting would be best to use?
 

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That is interesting, thanks for sharing that. I always liked the look of dynamic contrast better but it's nice to hear its recommended by a professional calibrator. Did he happen to mention which setting would be best to use?
Hi mate.
Low, I'm sure I read it somewhere that LG recommends it.
 

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Hi mate.
Low, I'm sure I read it somewhere that LG recommends it.
Yes, you are correct about DC. I thought it was at Medium or High. I can't remember which. There is no HDR_Module in the SM like with the newer tv's that know when to boost peak brightness. So in order for the tv to hit 540 nit with specular highlights, DC is the poor man's way to do it. Thus you have to use DC.
 

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Yes, you are correct about DC. I thought it was at Medium or High. I can't remember which. There is no HDR_Module in the SM like with the newer tv's that know when to boost peak brightness. So in order for the tv to hit 540 nit with specular highlights, DC is the poor man's way to do it. Thus you have to use DC.
From AVF which also explains the brightness issue.

According to LG:

“LG’s ‘Active HDR’ function analyses content on a frame by frame basis in real time, to
determine metadata for the scene. This information is then used to adjust the HDR tone-curve to match the content, on a frame by frame basis.

Control of the ‘Active HDR’ feature is found in the ‘Dynamic Contrast’ setting in the Expert Picture Settings menu. In HDR mode, the Dynamic Contrast settings are defined as follows:

• Off - Active HDR Disabled / Contrast Enhancement Disabled
• Low - Active HDR Enabled / Contrast Enhancement Disabled
• Medium - Active HDR Enabled / Contrast Enhancement Low
• High - Active HDR Enabled / Contrast Enhancement High

The default setting of ‘Low’ is recommended for accurate content reproduction.”

I have Dynamic contrast set to “Low” since it revealed much more details in otherwise clipped highlights and alleviated black crush and banding. It also made the image slightly (or significantly) brighter depending on the picture displayed in an on/off test. For UHDs with HDR it makes an improvement and a more “HDR-looking” image. This is true for viewing short clips at a time, but I’ve noticed problems during movies if they are left on for a while.

When watching some HDR titles there are noticeable shifts in the luminance of the screen whenever there is a cut to a different shot and random brightness fluctuations occur quite frequently. The most notable problem is when there are consecutive dark scenes in a movie it appears to make the screen dimmer and dimmer compared to DC off, and when a brighter scene is cut to after this it begins dim but after about 2 seconds there is a sudden, jarring shift in brightness, as if there was a delay to the “active HDR” adjusting. The thing is, if I rewind to the start of the scene there is no shift in brightness as it now begins bright, and the dark scenes before it are a lot more visible and less dim. However, if I play the disc from several minutes before the same jarring brightness shift occurs. This is really distracting and reminds me of bad adaptive backlight “global dimming” on LCD screens.

Has anyone else noticed this with dynamic contrast on low (which is the recommended)? I’ve tried different HDMI cables and ports in case there was some sort of “delay”, but the same thing keeps happening. Is this a fundamental flaw with LG’s “real time frame by frame analysis”?

And no, I don’t have “eco mode” or “eye comfort mode” or anything like that activated.
 

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[re: Dynamic Contrast]
Interesting info!
Shame that it isn't in the on-line manual or on-screen tips. Though I had tried in the past, I assumed it was like most other gimmicky options in these settings (ex: "super resolution", "edge enhancer").

Previously, I didn't see a major benefit. But after a lot more testing last couple of days, and ensuring I had WCG ON....

I must admit that some content now looks pretty damned good in HDR!.
But much does not.

Planet Earth II (4K BD) - looks great. Some scenes really pop! I wasn't able to do a comparison to normal HD till yesterday. Definitely nicer in 4K/HDR!

Wick 3: I briefly viewed (4K/HDR on Roku Ultra). Looks impressive! But no longer can compare to regular HD.

All the PrimeVideo content on the Roku continues to be disappointing. Some of it clearly better with HDR disabled.
Westworld (4K BD) still looks mediocre.

So it seems like it is some mix of media and possibly player/streamer. Likely media as the major one?
 

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[re: Dynamic Contrast]
Interesting info!
Shame that it isn't in the on-line manual or on-screen tips. Though I had tried in the past, I assumed it was like most other gimmicky options in these settings (ex: "super resolution", "edge enhancer").

Previously, I didn't see a major benefit. But after a lot more testing last couple of days, and ensuring I had WCG ON....

I must admit that some content now looks pretty damned good in HDR!.
But much does not.

Planet Earth II (4K BD) - looks great. Some scenes really pop! I wasn't able to do a comparison to normal HD till yesterday. Definitely nicer in 4K/HDR!

Wick 3: I briefly viewed (4K/HDR on Roku Ultra). Looks impressive! But no longer can compare to regular HD.

All the PrimeVideo content on the Roku continues to be disappointing. Some of it clearly better with HDR disabled.
Westworld (4K BD) still looks mediocre.

So it seems like it is some mix of media and possibly player/streamer. Likely media as the major one?
We've been saying set DC to Low for years now.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

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[re: Dynamic Contrast]
So it seems like it is some mix of media and possibly player/streamer. Likely media as the major one?
Like I said previously: yes!! Disk will (almost) always be a better source than streaming...and things that are native 4k (almost) always make better demo material (e.g. not Westworld).
 

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Like I said previously: yes!! Disk will (almost) always be a better source than streaming...and things that are native 4k (almost) always make better demo material (e.g. not Westworld).
No doubt.
As to Westworld. This guy agrees with you. Guess I wasted my money on that one. So it is a bit of a caveat emptor on the whole HDR scene.

Curious: do you (or anyone else) have recommended free material to do more testing? Given the potential issues with different inputs/hardware etc (as you mentioned in previous reply), I'm thinking LG Youtube app kind of material?

PS: I see your sig's Polk 10B's! I have a pair of original, 40 year old, model 10's in my garage!
 

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Curious: do you (or anyone else) have recommended free material to do more testing? Given the potential issues with different inputs/hardware etc (as you mentioned in previous reply), I'm thinking LG Youtube app kind of material?
Don't take this the wrong way, but I think you missed that point about "disk vs streaming"; also, you get what you pay for (and YouTube is not known for high-quality source material).

I recommend (and use) the following titles for monitor calibration:
--Digital Video Essentials (even own the LaserDisc of this)
--Disney's WOW (World of Wonder) disk (not sure if there's a UHD version)

A good player (see sig) is essential. Also, I basically have 2 settings on the TV:
--ISF2: adjusted for HD/SDR material
--ISF1: adjusted for UHD/HDR material (turn on WCG and deep color)
So I basically use ISF2 all the time unless I'm watching a UHD disk (or the occasional Amazon show)
PS: I see your sig's Polk 10B's! I have a pair of original, 40 year old, model 10's in my garage!
I may regret saying this, but if you ever want to get rid of those 10B's, give me a shout.
 

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Don't take this the wrong way, but I think you missed that point about "disk vs streaming"; also, you get what you pay for (and YouTube is not known for high-quality source material).
No worries. But I don't think I missed it. Disk bitrate >> streaming. I've always been skeptical of streaming. But lately, I'm just not interested in paying $15-20 (+ $5-10 for the HD version so I can do a good comparison) for something I've already seen and have little interest watching again. And seeing little/no diff in so many sources, I was just looking for something where I could cheaply, hopefully free, do that HDR vs non-HDR comparison on some material, especially material where the HDR is known to be good.

If it really comes down to a "well you need the UHD disk to see the benefits of HDR", then I'll drop the whole thing. HDR will be mostly a non-issue for me as I don't plan to be buying many 4K/HDR disks. Maybe a series or two that I love and I'm willing to get the disks for. OTOH, if streaming showed a significant advantage for the HDR vs just renting the HD/SDR, I'd shell out the extra $ when I want to rent a movie. Right now, I'm not seeing it (whether media or EF9500 limitations).

I recommend (and use) the following titles for monitor calibration:
--Digital Video Essentials (even own the LaserDisc of this)
I have it ... the DVD, LOL! I know there's a BD version. Looks like there's a UHD version sold direct by Joe Kane?? TBH, I'm a spaz at using it and never felt I did it right.

A good player (see sig) is essential. Also, I basically have 2 settings on the TV:
--ISF2: adjusted for HD/SDR material
--ISF1: adjusted for UHD/HDR material (turn on WCG and deep color)
For my "testing" I did same. Though ISF1 is not calibrated. Pretty much just WCG+(now) DC low.

I may regret saying this, but if you ever want to get rid of those 10B's, give me a shout.
I'd probably be open to that. Can talk later :)
 

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If it really comes down to a "well you need the UHD disk to see the benefits of HDR", then I'll drop the whole thing. HDR will be mostly a non-issue for me as I don't plan to be buying many 4K/HDR disks. Maybe a series or two that I love and I'm willing to get the disks for. OTOH, if streaming showed a significant advantage for the HDR vs just renting the HD/SDR, I'd shell out the extra $ when I want to rent a movie. Right now, I'm not seeing it (whether media or EF9500 limitations).
There is an LG HDR demo that just knocks my socks off, and you can download it (and a few others) at this link. Just put it on a USB stick and plug it into one of the TV ports. For the record, I think Bosch and The Expanse (both on Amazon) are the best-looking UHD/HDR streaming series out there (just make sure Dynamic Contrast is turned on ;)).
 
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I think HDR looks great on the 65EF9500 and won't enable dynamic contrast any more than I would enable any motion processing (all motion processing of any kind looks horrible to me.)
 

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I recently purchased a C9 to go in my bedroom, and I have the EF9500 downstairs in the family room. It's been fun to compare these two TVs and what the 5 years of OLED enhancements have brought. The biggest improvement in day-to-day watching is the image processing. The overall image is noticeably sharper with more detail on the C9; especially on non-4k content. A lot more pop to the image while maintaining accuracy. Motion is noticeably better on the c9. Near black performance is significantly better. Finally, HDR is mind blowing on the c9. It's hard to believe that these tv's are using the same backlighting technology. I really didn't know what I was missing when viewing HDR content on my EF until I saw what the C9 could do. Now I'm tempted to get rid of the EF and get a CX. It really is incredible how much improvement they've made to these panels in 5 years.
 

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I recently purchased a C9 to go in my bedroom, and I have the EF9500 downstairs in the family room. It's been fun to compare these two TVs and what the 5 years of OLED enhancements have brought. The biggest improvement in day-to-day watching is the image processing. The overall image is noticeably sharper with more detail on the C9; especially on non-4k content. A lot more pop to the image while maintaining accuracy. Motion is noticeably better on the c9. Near black performance is significantly better. Finally, HDR is mind blowing on the c9. It's hard to believe that these tv's are using the same backlighting technology. I really didn't know what I was missing when viewing HDR content on my EF until I saw what the C9 could do. Now I'm tempted to get rid of the EF and get a CX. It really is incredible how much improvement they've made to these panels in 5 years.
I see a big difference over time between my EF9500 and my E6. My EF9500 has 10,000 hours on it, and my E6 about 3500 hours. You can definitely tell how color degrades over time. The EF9500 definitely has less punch now compared to the E6. When I first got the E6, the EF9500 was about a year old, and there really wasnt much difference, now it's becoming obvious. The older tv's like the EF9500 have a half life around 15,000 hours, and since i am approaching that, you can see how the color accuracy and overall punch begins to fade. No way would I try and sell the EF9500 knowing that its degrading. If I upgrade next year, I will just have them haul the EF9500 away.
 

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I see a big difference over time between my EF9500 and my E6. My EF9500 has 10,000 hours on it, and my E6 about 3500 hours. You can definitely tell how color degrades over time. The EF9500 definitely has less punch now compared to the E6. When I first got the E6, the EF9500 was about a year old, and there really wasnt much difference, now it's becoming obvious. The older tv's like the EF9500 have a half life around 15,000 hours, and since i am approaching that, you can see how the color accuracy and overall punch begins to fade. No way would I try and sell the EF9500 knowing that its degrading. If I upgrade next year, I will just have them haul the EF9500 away.
Where is it confirmed that these tv's have such a short half life? I thought they were at least 30,000 hours.
 
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