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For all TVs, Wide Gamut is Rec2020.
Some PC type displays (and notably Apple/Android screens) use a bastardised colour space that uses P3 primaries.

And yes, you can easily make a 3D LUT that JUST has 1D data within it.
Or, measure the primary gamut values of the TV, and target those when making the LUT?

Steve
 

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Quick question for everyone. Who in here is setting there HDR tone curve rolloff to 100% with all luminance levels? I'm thinking that's the way to go, but I can't figure out the max luminance on my TV. It's always different, and changes dramatically after a few seconds. Ted told me to use the first reading I got from my meter, and not the drifted measurement because it will never actually hit that high of a number. I'm getting about 686 nits. How crucial is it to have the exact number in the peak brightness box, or can it be left at default? Thank you for your input.
 

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With TVs that drift so wildly the accuracy of the peak value is really not critical.
(On the basis that any HDR calibration is never going to be critical on such TVs)
I'd go with the lower value you have read.

Steve
 

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Quick question for everyone. Who in here is setting there HDR tone curve rolloff to 100% with all luminance levels? I'm thinking that's the way to go, but I can't figure out the max luminance on my TV. It's always different, and changes dramatically after a few seconds. Ted told me to use the first reading I got from my meter, and not the drifted measurement because it will never actually hit that high of a number. I'm getting about 686 nits. How crucial is it to have the exact number in the peak brightness box, or can it be left at default? Thank you for your input.
This is a really interesting question with a not so straight forward answer. I think Ted's advice is fine. You can't go wrong with that method. I don't believe the exact number meaning 686 nits vs 700 nits is something that you will be able to see unless you try to measure it or focus on it. If you leave a 100% white patch on the screen and take a continuous read for a minute for example, you specific panel will read 686 nits then probably as it heats up and drifts read 710-720 nits. Now when you are watching HDR content, this panel heating/drifting will be all over the place dependent on the specific HDR content you are watching. So as Steve said, the panel is so unstable the value you use is not that critical.

Generally, if i get a first read of 686 nits then a second and third close to 700, i set it to 700. With Device Control you can always go in and update the tone mapping so you can experiment if you want to see what works best for you.

BTW, some of these crazy high peak luminance HDR values reported are people doing a continuous 100% HDR 10% window read until the panel reaches a peak then stops. I'm not so sure this is good for the panel but this is how some are determining peak hdr luma.
 

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Quick question for everyone. Who in here is setting there HDR tone curve rolloff to 100% with all luminance levels? I'm thinking that's the way to go, but I can't figure out the max luminance on my TV. It's always different, and changes dramatically after a few seconds. Ted told me to use the first reading I got from my meter, and not the drifted measurement because it will never actually hit that high of a number. I'm getting about 686 nits. How crucial is it to have the exact number in the peak brightness box, or can it be left at default? Thank you for your input.
This is a really interesting question with a not so straight forward answer. I think Ted's advice is fine. You can't go wrong with that method. I don't believe the exact number meaning 686 nits vs 700 nits is something that you will be able to see unless you try to measure it or focus on it. If you leave a 100% white patch on the screen and take a continuous read for a minute for example, you specific panel will read 686 nits then probably as it heats up and drifts read 710-720 nits. Now when you are watching HDR content, this panel heating/drifting will be all over the place dependent on the specific HDR content you are watching. So as Steve said, the panel is so unstable the value you use is not that critical.

Generally, if i get a first read of 686 nits then a second and third close to 700, i set it to 700. With Device Control you can always go in and update the tone mapping so you can experiment if you want to see what works best for you.

BTW, some of these crazy high peak luminance HDR values reported are people doing a continuous 100% HDR 10% window read until the panel reaches a peak then stops. I'm not so sure this is good for the panel but this is how some are determining peak hdr luma.
Yeah, I was getting 770 before it dropped and I decided i wasn't going to do that again. I could see some pretty bad burn in happening if done too many times. So I guess I'll just leave it at default. Is there a rolloff point for 700 nits thats better than the default of 100% roll-off?
 

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Yeah, I was getting 770 before it dropped and I decided i wasn't going to do that again. I could see some pretty bad burn in happening if done too many times. So I guess I'll just leave it at default. Is there a rolloff point for 700 nits thats better than the default of 100% roll-off?
You can use the defaults or some people use
1,000 set to 50%
4,000 set to 40%
10,000 set to 30%

The thinking is to roll off sooner and more gradually.
You need to experiment and see what works best for you.
 
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So I have completed a second measurement after my first botched attempt where using wifi resulted in a bit of errors from out of sync meter reads according to Ted.

Now connected via LAN..
The settings were as instructed in the sm wb pre-cal file for PGenerator using LS.
-AIO mode, 0.75 Integration time, extra delay 0.5, Stabilization 0.350, intelligent integration 1, patch scale 16-255, unprofiled i1d3 using wrgb oled edr.
Tried to target 123nits and below .5de and came up with .1xx at slightly under 123 like 122.9xx can't remember. Ran the measurement and when doing checks with Calman, luminance came up short of 100 at 98.x

Is this normal or was I connecting/checking something wrong in Calman? Ted mentioned having to connect to PGen using the ip, but I didn't find any where to input this. So CM was reading via itpg while still on the input of PGen?

Cube looked ok I guess. Not sure what to make of the charts. Some LS/CS graphs below after 3dlut upload.
 

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The cube doesn't tell the whole story. You also need to look at the gray scale an cms scans. You can use LS or CM or both.
 

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I am a believer. I purchased Lightspace a week ago. Got some great coaching from Ted Aspiotis ( @ConnecTEDDD ). And now I have the best picture quality my C8 has ever produced.

My meters are an i1 Display Pro Plus and an i1 Pro 2. I used LightSpace to profile the i1 Display Pro Plus with the i1 Pro 2.

I then did a few test quick profiles that I sent to Ted for his review. With each exchange my quick profiles improved. Finally I was able to use settings that Ted provided and his patch lists to create my native display profile. That profile was very good. So I went and profiled again with service menu Cool adjusted to 192,192,192. My intent was to experiment with alternate white points. LightSpace makes setting new gamma and or alternate white points a very quick and easy job. The long profile run does not have to be done again if the target nits do not change. I altered the Rec.709 colorspace to reflect my preference for the D-Nice white point (AWP Davis) and gamma 2.3. I then created the Device Control LUT file and uploaded it to the Cinema slot. Finally I ran a verification with Ted's patch list. The verification looked excellent and so did the picture quality. I sent the verification off to Ted along with my altered colorspace. Here is the analysis he sent back to me. (I think I should compliment @anger-Miki here for the analysis programing.)

dE.png

I have used Calman Home for LG up until now. But was not entirely pleased with my results. Calman's methods caused all sorts of drift during the calibration of my panel. You really shouldn't put up a patch with high luminescence for seconds while you try to guess the correct RGB balance. My time was up on my license, so I weighed renewal of Calman Home for another year vs the jump to LightSpace. The permanent LightSpace license as well as the license for ColorSpace swayed me in the LightSpace direction. I am glad I came.

Time to experiment with the ColorSpace beta.

Thanks again to Ted and all of the contributors to this forum. ( I read every post. )

LeRoy
 

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^^^

good that u used at least 1000 points in ur cLUT validation, but when doing that would strongly recommend to not use a simple 10^3 but a customized set that targets memory colors heavily... and of course more GS points... but results look neat.

Let us know how that AWP works for u when watching content for a while and then looking at another screen w/ D65 WP...
 

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Mike the 10^3 is a custom patchset which concentrates mainly on primary colors and the gamut edges.

I'm actually using a set which contains ~9500p with 101p grayscale points and I'm very happy with the results.

 

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Wow those charts look amazing! :D
 
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Mike the 10^3 is a custom patchset which concentrates mainly on primary colors and the gamut edges.

I'm assuming this is for cLUT val - so why focus on those regions if it is a custom set ?
 

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Just curious but do you guys recalibrate your displays when the ambient temperature changes and causes the display to drift, I know that on LCD displays gamma, and white point can drift but unsure how it affects OLED, and if it's worth it to calibrate each time temperature changes.
 

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personally, I have not yet reached that level of obsession :D
 

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Anyone seen this before?

I just did a new sdr profile targeting rec709 using dnice awp overnight, loaded 3dlut and went to verify and got this.

The correction cube after profiling looked spot on though. Somewhere after uploading 3dlut something must have happened.

I ran both quick primary, same and then 1000 verification csv with preroll and same.
Enabled cal and reset 3dlut, reloaded, ran quick primary again and noticed it took a few minutes of black before the gray patch started, same.

Thought it wasn't uploaded so I unplugged the tv and rpi, reset 3dlut and reloaded, ran quick primary, same.

Then I decided to close LS, enabled network server and went to Calibration Interface and while checking values, LS crashed. Opened again, ran quick primary and things were back to normal again. Patch started immediately after hitting ok.
Running 1000 with preroll right now.

Did LS lock up or my meter stop working?

When I do verification, do I keep rec709 as target or change to the new colorspace awp I saved with profile?
 

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I would suspect the communication with the TPG if I were a calibration detective. Try to use RPi with BT or with an uplink cable or an isolated router.
 

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personally, I have not yet reached that level of obsession :D
:laugh:

I would suspect the communication with the TPG if I were a calibration detective. Try to use RPi with BT or with an uplink cable or an isolated router.
Very lame. I wonder what that picture would have looked like with all those points off the chart! Hopefully the 3dlut took after reloading 3 times.
 
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