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Just wondering but is it recommended to redo a 3DLUT calibration when changing source, e.g. new GPU, AMD, or NVIDIA, or wouldn't this matter as long as it's bitperfect RGB Limited?
Hi,

It will require to check the new GPU settings, to disable enhancements, disable ICC or VCGT.

Do you use the GPU for patch generation? ...or an external TPG?
 

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Seems to be fairly common issue with blue on the 77” model.
Hi,

Some LGs panels can't fully reach the 100% Saturation of REC.709 blue, and it's expected to have some small errors (3-4 points below 1.5dE2000) to that area since the panel can't track REC.709 Blue properly.

However, using the RGB Separation and xyY 3D Charts, will improve the panel factory calibration and provide better results.

Problem Explained - Example 1 - Example 2 - Example 3 - Example 4
 

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I've just made a picture with a black background, and a rectangle in the middle with RGB level 1,1,1, and then viewed it in a pitch black room, after my eyes have adapted, i used both the internal apps, and via my HTPC (RGB limited HDMI Low) in both cases level 1 was not showing at all, i also used the black level pattern found in the AVSHD mp4 with the same outcome, so somewhere over 4-5 months the correct brightness setting changed from 50 in HDMI mode SDR to brightness 53.

I remember the last time i checked this was around 5 months ago, when the TV had around 600-700 hours used so it should have been stable, and RGB level 1 was visible at brightness 50 then.
Hi,

I have added Brightness patterns without letter indicators for OLED users to the PGenerator version of Ted's Calibration Disk.



They are more efficient than the Brightness patterns with text indicator to each flashing bar.

If you have designed any pattern, it has custom image upload capability.
 

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Hi,

It will require to check the new GPU settings, to disable enhancements, disable ICC or VCGT.

Do you use the GPU for patch generation? ...or an external TPG?
I use the GPU for generation usually had very good results using NVIDIA, but I'm considering switching to AMD, so I dunno if they do their HDMI proccesing differently, or something.
Hi,

I have added Brightness patterns without letter indicators for OLED users to the PGenerator version of Ted's Calibration Disk.



They are more efficient than the Brightness patterns with text indicator to each flashing bar.

If you have designed any pattern, it has custom image upload capability.
When checking RGB level 1/17 it should be a evenly lit column right, instead of splotchy with lit pixels mixed in with black ones?
 

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I use the GPU for generation usually had very good results using NVIDIA, but I'm considering switching to AMD, so I dunno if they do their HDMI proccesing differently, or something.
When you use a GPU (untested) for TPG, but you are watching your content thru that GPU, then any error may be introduced, you have a full video signal chain calibrated.

If you stay at RGB colorspace output, you will be OK, since LGs internal LUT is 16-255, so you have to send RGB colorspace.

But when you connect different devices to that input, then if GPU had errors, then you will have some errors to your other devices.

It's the reason you have to use a known bit-perfect TPG for your calibration if you use multiple devices.

When checking RGB level 1/17 it should be a evenly lit column right, instead of splotchy with lit pixels mixed in with black ones?
16 bar and below 16 should be invisible.

17 bar 'slightly' light up when you look at the pattern with a close distance from the screen (in a dark environment).

The 10x10 gray box indicator, it's at the top/bottom of 16 (reference black) flashing bar)



While adjusting the Brightness slider, the background should have a native black level, and we want to avoid any noise or lift of the native black level.
 

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Howdy folks. Just did an SDR service menu white point adjustment. Used "Cool" setting and all highs were set at 192 to start. Using Ted's advice, I started by lowering the green and blue. I got them to level out except Red was low. Raising Red to 197 gives me a flat RGB at 100IRE and 100nits. Is it ok to go over 192 in these settings?
 

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Howdy folks. Just did an SDR service menu white point adjustment. Used "Cool" setting and all highs were set at 192 to start. Using Ted's advice, I started by lowering the green and blue. I got them to level out except Red was low. Raising Red to 197 gives me a flat RGB at 100IRE and 100nits. Is it ok to go over 192 in these settings?
No, you should never go above 192 in the Service Menu. Keep red at 192 and lower the other two.

After reading your post again, I don’t understand what you mean. You say you lower green and blue and they level out, but red is low? That’s kind of contradictory.

All you do is leave red at 192 and keep taking green and blue out until you hit your target white point at your desired peak luminance.
 

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No, you should never go above 192 in the Service Menu. Keep red at 192 and lower the other two.

After reading your post again, I don’t understand what you mean. You say you lower green and blue and they level out, but red is low? That’s kind of contradictory.

All you do is leave red at 192 and keep taking green and blue out until you hit your target white point at your desired peak luminance.
Ah. damn. Nevermind. I realized what I did wrong. Now it is all aligned. Sorry to bother! I couldn't get red to level out no matter how much more I lowered green and blue. It was a problem with my probe not firing off to read the measurements. I thought I was hitting the measure button.

1609715355194.png
 

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No problem. Glad you figured it out.
 
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No, you should never go above 192 in the Service Menu. Keep red at 192 and lower the other two.

After reading your post again, I don’t understand what you mean. You say you lower green and blue and they level out, but red is low? That’s kind of contradictory.

All you do is leave red at 192 and keep taking green and blue out until you hit your target white point at your desired peak luminance.
What's the reason we cant change 192 red?
 

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192.192.192 is the maximum dynamic range and colour temperature of the native panel. Raising any of those channels above 192 can cause issues such as colour clipping. The other two need reducing to compensate for the native ~10,000 colour temperature of the panel.

This has all been discussed in great detail many, many times before in this and other LG calibration threads.
 

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I've been living under a rock for a bit, didn't even know this was even possible! So I can do the 3d lut on my c8 with lightspace and ted's disc?! Can I also upload the cal file with Device control? Do I need to use calman at all?

Can anyone point me to a tutorial?
 

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My second pass at SDR calibration at 1000 hours. After creating the LUT and looking at the cube, I have had similar anomalies in the Blue areas both times. I know I did everything correctly. I am using an i1Display Pro Plus (contactless method) in a light controlled room. Pgenerator for patterns. Did the pre roll, drift compensation, etc. My drift points are not nearly as tight as some. Couple spikes above 2. Hopefully this doesn't create any major issues:

3074716



3074718
 

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I've been living under a rock for a bit, didn't even know this was even possible! So I can do the 3d lut on my c8 with lightspace and ted's disc?! Can I also upload the cal file with Device control? Do I need to use calman at all?

Can anyone point me to a tutorial?
This entire thread could be considered a tutorial of sorts, but in saying that, any LightSpace user that has upgraded to ColourSpace (the new software from Light Illusion) and has access to the necessary Device Control Templates for LG will be provided with a step-by-step guide that I created.

See the following link for more details


My second pass at SDR calibration at 1000 hours. After creating the LUT and looking at the cube, I have had similar anomalies in the Blue areas both times. I know I did everything correctly. I am using an i1Display Pro Plus (contactless method) in a light controlled room. Pgenerator for patterns. Did the pre roll, drift compensation, etc. My drift points are not nearly as tight as some. Couple spikes above 2. Hopefully this doesn't create any major issues:

View attachment 3074716


View attachment 3074718
The "anomaly" you are seeing in blue is nothing to worry about. It just means that your panel is one of those that cannot reach such a saturated blue natively. This in turn means it just needs less correction from native panel gamut to Rec709. This seems to be more common on 77" panels, but it is not restricted to those. The LUT preview image looks fine, if you want someone to take a more in depth look into your profile then it would be better to send your BCS files, either here or to Ted via his website.

 
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The "anomaly" you are seeing in blue is nothing to worry about. It just means that your panel is one of those that cannot reach such a saturated blue natively. This in turn means it just needs less correction from native panel gamut to Rec709. This seems to be more common on 77" panels, but it is not restricted to those. The LUT preview image looks fine, if you want someone to take a more in depth look into your profile then it would be better to send your BCS files, either here or to Ted via his website.
It's all good. I believe I worked with Ted on that "anomaly" a few months back on the first pass. I am actually glad I saw it again as it means I did the process correctly this time again. I did have a strange issue with the verification this time, though. I ran the 1000 point verification after and most of my points were "red" event though everything appeared fine with spot checks. I ran through a quick validation in Calman for sanity and it looked fine as well. Watched some Blu Ray content and everything looked real nice. Inky blacks, good color and flesh tones. White balance appeared fine. All Ted's disc slides showed no signs of banding.

The only changes I had to really make this time vs. when I did the first calibration at 100 hours was that I had to bump brightness on the panel up from 52 to 53 for one. For whatever reason, SDR was just slightly crushing black. That bump seems to have done it and confirmed with brightness patterns. I most likely needed to be at 53 for my panel from the start. I also went with a contactless method for my i1 Display Pro Plus using a tripod a few centimeter from the screen. Also, I had an i1 Pro spectro I was able to profile it with on this set.

Regardless, referenced your awesome guide again just to ensure I didn't miss anything. Thanks much!
 

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I ran the 1000 point verification after and most of my points were "red" event though everything appeared fine with spot checks. I ran through a quick validation in Calman for sanity and it looked fine as well.
This could be something as simple as not updating your Min/Max target luminance values in the settings tab, or another such setting in ColourSpace. Another user had a similar issue recently and as soon as he updated those values, everything turned from orange/red to all being green. As before, if you wish for someone to take a look to be sure, then please feel free to upload any BCS file so it can be checked out.

Regardless, referenced your awesome guide again just to ensure I didn't miss anything. Thanks much!
No problem at all. I'm just glad so many people are finding them useful as it means it wasn't a waste of time and effort to create them.
 
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It's all good. I believe I worked with Ted on that "anomaly" a few months back on the first pass. I am actually glad I saw it again as it means I did the process correctly this time again. I did have a strange issue with the verification this time, though. I ran the 1000 point verification after and most of my points were "red" event though everything appeared fine with spot checks. I ran through a quick validation in Calman for sanity and it looked fine as well. Watched some Blu Ray content and everything looked real nice. Inky blacks, good color and flesh tones. White balance appeared fine. All Ted's disc slides showed no signs of banding.

The only changes I had to really make this time vs. when I did the first calibration at 100 hours was that I had to bump brightness on the panel up from 52 to 53 for one. For whatever reason, SDR was just slightly crushing black. That bump seems to have done it and confirmed with brightness patterns. I most likely needed to be at 53 for my panel from the start. I also went with a contactless method for my i1 Display Pro Plus using a tripod a few centimeter from the screen. Also, I had an i1 Pro spectro I was able to profile it with on this set.

Regardless, referenced your awesome guide again just to ensure I didn't miss anything. Thanks much!
Regarding that bump in brightness, have you verified that you're not experiencing the bug introduced with the 05.0.03 firmware? If that is the case brightness at 53 could in that case introduce intermittent elevated blacks...
 

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Hi all,

I want to do a pre-calibration with the rgb values but my service menu seems to be completely different. It also blocks the entire screen.

How do I get into the correct menu?

3075159
 

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Hi all,

I want to do a pre-calibration with the rgb values but my service menu seems to be completely different. It also blocks the entire screen.

How do I get into the correct menu?

View attachment 3075159
You will find the whitebalance settings under the in-start menu (not the service menu). You should probably have another button for in-start on your remote.
But do not press the in-stop button.
 
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