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Hi, great thread! With the tips here I set brightness to 53 and IRE 5 luminance to +7. With the 10 hours black video on youtube and completely dark room its easy to check if blacks float.

Question, should I do the 2-step down for higher IRE, so IRE 5: 7, IRE 10: 5, IRE 15: 3, IRE 20: 1? Or must I only use even numbers like 6, 4, 2? Cause thats what im reading here as others are doing like @wxman.

I have 65B8 with latest fw.
Brightness at 53 seems high but if it’s working for you then it is! You are doing it right making sure the room is dark and your eyes are well adapted. I’m using the ramp down system for my set and am happy but if you’re content now then just leave it. Every set will be slightly different.

Have you watched some known content and verified you see improvements? That’s really the best test. Once I made my tweaks I tried out some scenes on Blu-ray Discs and whatever to validate my changes. I did notice slightly improved detail and less crush in scenes that had it before the adjustments so that sealed the deal.

Also, I went into my service menu and set my sub brightness main setting to 127. The default is 128. This allows me to use a brightness value of 52 pretty much across all modes and maintain true black. The 52 value teases out more detail than 51 so that was a good change too.
 

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Brightness at 53 seems high but if it’s working for you then it is! You are doing it right making sure the room is dark and your eyes are well adapted. I’m using the ramp down system for my set and am happy but if you’re content now then just leave it. Every set will be slightly different.

Have you watched some known content and verified you see improvements? That’s really the best test. Once I made my tweaks I tried out some scenes on Blu-ray Discs and whatever to validate my changes. I did notice slightly improved detail and less crush in scenes that had it before the adjustments so that sealed the deal.

Also, I went into my service menu and set my sub brightness main setting to 127. The default is 128. This allows me to use a brightness value of 52 pretty much across all modes and maintain true black. The 52 value teases out more detail than 51 so that was a good change too.
Thanks for the reply. My brightness is 54, so even higher(!), and IRE 5 at Luminance 6, I was mistaken! 54 on my set is still true black. The sub brightness I could also try. I noticed an improvement right away (but maybe only psychological :p)! I now applied the 2-step ramp down for IRE 10 and 15. Tonight I will do the 10 hr YT video and check blacks. Ill then do the sub b aswell :—-).

Still getting an E9 though when prices come down :-o!
 

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Thanks for the reply. My brightness is 54, so even higher(!), and IRE 5 at Luminance 6, I was mistaken! 54 on my set is still true black. The sub brightness I could also try. I noticed an improvement right away (but maybe only psychological :p)! I now applied the 2-step ramp down for IRE 10 and 15. Tonight I will do the 10 hr YT video and check blacks. Ill then do the sub b aswell :—-).

Still getting an E9 though when prices come down :-o!

Cool! Im am also getting the upgrade itch but I want to go 77" so Ill have to wait a bit longer. The newer sets are better regarding near black so that'll be nice. :)
 
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Question.

When i set my oled light from 0 (I use 0 for ISF dark room) to 5 the brightness and IRE controls work totally different. At oled light 5 brightness 52 gives floating blacks, only 51 is true black. The 5% IRE doesnt do anything, even at luminance 50. How come?
 

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Been trying to fix the glowing blacks on my C9 in HDR10 mode (Dolby Vision somehow works just fine). When I set brightness at 50 and dynamic tonemapping ON (Technicolor HDR) the blacks glow in a lot of content. I set brightness to 48 and bam it's fine now. But when I check HDR pattern the black bars are crushed up to 96. However I see no difference with tonemapping ON or OFF. Is the feature not working on a calibration screen? The blacks don't look crushed in normal content.
In any case, I don't get why blacks in Dolby Vision never glow but with standard HDR10 it's all over the place. I watch 4K blu-rays so the source should be fine.
 

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I'm hoping that somebody could help me. I have an uncalibrated B8 with the following SDR key settings:

isf Expert
OLED Light 40
Contrast 85
Gamma 2.2
Brightness 54

I used the AVS black clipping test in a pitch black room to adjust the brightness, to see minimal flashing at bar 17. Recently I tried OLED 50 and contrast 90 but it seemed a little bit to bright after using 40 and 85 for almost a year.

Now a few people told me to try gamma 2.4. When using that, I need to adjust the brightness to 59 to see bar 17 flashing again.

I put each 2.2 and 2.4 to isf dark and bright and switched within several movies/scenes. It seems 2.4 gives me a little bit richer colors and dephts, especially noticable in cartoons/animation content, 2.2 looks washed out in comparison but I don't know if that is really the case or just because its a little bit brighter.

What can I improve here? I don't have a feeling anymore what the "right" setting is. And I'm wondering why my brightness setting is so high since most people say to stick around 50.

I never touched the IRE settings. Would be this was wxman said helpful for my me?

Give this a try. In a totally dark room, at night, open the youtube app and search for 10 hours HD black screen. Play that video. Let your eyes adjust. If the screen glows, your brightness is too high. Lower brightness until the screen is black. Next adjust 5 IRE up until glow returns, and then lower 1 click at a time until it's black. That's about the best you can do.
What about the other IRE settings? Is adjusting 5 IRE enough?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I'm hoping that somebody could get me. I have an uncalibrated B8 with the following SDR key settings:

isf Expert
OLED Light 40
Contrast 85
Gamma 2.2
Brightness 54

I used the AVS black clipping test in a pitch black room to adjust the brightness, to see minimal flashing at bar 17. Recently I tried OLED 50 and contrast 90 but it seemed a little bit to bright after using 40 and 85 for almost a year.

Now a few people told me to try gamma 2.4. When using that, I need to adjust the brightness to 59 to see bar 17 flashing again.

I put each 2.2 and 2.4 to isf dark and bright and switched within several movies/scenes. It seems 2.4 gives me a little bit richer colors and dephts, especially noticable in cartoons/animation content, 2.2 looks washed out in comparison but I don't know if that is really the case or just because its a little bit brighter.

What can I improve here? I don't have a feeling anymore what the "right" setting is. And I'm wondering why my brightness setting is so high since most people say to stick around 50.

I never touched the IRE settings. Would be this was wxman said helpful for my me?



What about the other IRE settings? Is adjusting 5 IRE enough?

Thanks in advance.
Without calibration equipment, I would not mess with anything above 5 IRE.
 

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Without calibration equipment, I would not mess with anything above 5 IRE.

Thanks for the fast reply, I'll give it a shot tonight with 5 IRE then. What is your take on the gamma, which one are you using?
 

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If you want to reduce black crush and enhance shadow detail near black, then use gamma 2.2. It only "appears" washed out when compared to 2.4. Personally, I could never find a "right" setting for me when adjusting IRE 5. All I managed to do was make noise and artifacts near black more visible. I left IRE alone and went with 2.2 gamma. It's not perfect, but good enough without a calibration.
 

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I used the AVS black clipping test in a pitch black room to adjust the brightness, to see minimal flashing at bar 17. Recently I tried OLED 50 and contrast 90 but it seemed a little bit to bright after using 40 and 85 for almost a year.

Now a few people told me to try gamma 2.4. When using that, I need to adjust the brightness to 59 to see bar 17 flashing again.
Don't forget, you're not supposed to be able to see 17 on that pattern. It's INCREDIBLY dark, and should only be visible if 17 is the only thing in a patch on the screen with black and nothing brighter at all with it.
Otherwise, your iris opens too much when the other brighter patches (such as 19) completely swamp it in brightness, and you adjust the TV by too much to see it making level17 brighter than it should be.
It is normally for you not to be able to see 17. It's better to have black + 19,20 etc "correct" than 17 visible + 19,20 pushed much brighter than they are supposed to be. Sometimes you have to compromise.

This was covered earlier in the thread - try around here but if that's not he place just go a bit further back! HTH :)
 

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Wow, thanks a lot, obviously I didn't know about this at all! Well I thought because it says "Set black level to lowest setting where 17-25 flash" it means I need to see 17 flashing. I makes totally sense now for me, I always had a hard time to adjust 17 because the other stuff was flickering bright and I had to cover the right side a litte bit an move close to the TV.
Yes it's a "simplistic instruction", shall we say, in that pattern. :)

I will fix this mistake as soon as I can tonight, guess I can go down 2-3 clicks for sure. But I asume there is nothing like a test pattern that shows only black and 17?
There are, yes, I have some downloaded from here in a directory on my HD called "Wizziwig's windows", so I must have got them from here since @Wizziwig is very passionate about near-black detail. As it's all so small, I hope he won't mind if I re-upload them to this post, with credit to him.

From those files, 17=0.5%, 18=0.8%, 19=1.4%, 20=1.8%. They are 10% window patterns, which means the middle 10% area of the screen has the colour on it, and the rest is black. Easier to see on the brighter ones! But again don't fixate on being able to see 17, on some TVs it's impossible to distinguish it from black without ruining black. On a OLED it should be possible but I still struggle. It's more important that 18/19 and over are ok + black is fully black.
 

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Thanks for the fast reply, I'll give it a shot tonight with 5 IRE then. What is your take on the gamma, which one are you using?
Since you own a B8, it is better with near blacks compared to my E6. So you likely dont need to mess with 5IRE, but you can definitely give it a try. I use 2.4 for night time movie watching, and 2.2 for everything else.
 

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I just finished testing, did exactly what you guys said.

What can I say, my screen was way to bright! As soon I tried the 10 hours black I saw all four corners glowing. I had to lower my brightness from 54 to 51 to remove it!

Black Clipping Test shows 18 slightly flashing, 17 maybe just a hint.

Then I loaded the pattern with 0.5%, the middle was almost not visible like you said it should after my eyes adjusted.

Then I tried my luck with 5 IRE but even when I put it at max 50 I saw no flashing. Had to put brightness at 52 and then 5 IRE to 31 to notice glowing. But in a dark movie scene the blacks were well off (switches isf bright and dark again). So I decided to skip the IRE thing.

Long story short, with gamma 2.2 and brightness 51 the picture looks very nice now! (OLED 40, Contrast 90). Thanks for your help!
 

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Wow, thanks a lot, obviously I didn't know about this at all! Well I thought because it says "Set black level to lowest setting where 17-25 flash" it means I need to see 17 flashing. I makes totally sense now for me, I always had a hard time to adjust 17 because the other stuff was flickering bright and I had to cover the right side a litte bit an move close to the TV.

I will fix this mistake as soon as I can tonight, guess I can go down 2-3 clicks for sure. But I asume there is nothing like a test pattern that shows only black and 17?

That's the right way to do it. To see 17 flash, you must put your nose up to the TV and cup your hands around your eyes to block out the light from the brighter flashing bars.


I just finished testing, did exactly what you guys said.

What can I say, my screen was way to bright! As soon I tried the 10 hours black I saw all four corners glowing. I had to lower my brightness from 54 to 51 to remove it!

Black Clipping Test shows 18 slightly flashing, 17 maybe just a hint.

Then I loaded the pattern with 0.5%, the middle was almost not visible like you said it should after my eyes adjusted.

Then I tried my luck with 5 IRE but even when I put it at max 50 I saw no flashing. Had to put brightness at 52 and then 5 IRE to 31 to notice glowing. But in a dark movie scene the blacks were well off (switches isf bright and dark again). So I decided to skip the IRE thing.

Long story short, with gamma 2.2 and brightness 51 the picture looks very nice now! (OLED 40, Contrast 90). Thanks for your help!

The 0.5% black pattern should still be visible at 50 brightness. However, it's very, very difficult to see. Your eyes must be adjusted for at least a few minutes in a pitch black room and possibly minutes after any TV menu disappears. And even then, it's hard to see. But I'm coming from a B6 so yours may be different.



Is 90 contrast the correct setting on your set? Seems a bit high. On our B6, I got 84 using the free AVS white clipping patterns.
 

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Is 90 contrast the correct setting on your set? Seems a bit high. On our B6, I got 84 using the free AVS white clipping patterns.

I'll look into it again.

Edit: you were right. Went back to 85 like I was I few days ago.
 

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How are the newer OLEDs? Do they still have this shadow issue? I have a C6, and no plans to replace it any time soon, but it was a real hassle to get it tweaked to my liking. It's decent now, but still come black crush, I'm sure. Not sure I'd want to deal with that again.
 

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I've not read much of this thread but I've had success in dramatically improving near black detail and reducing compression artifacts on my C6. When I purchased my C6 I was very disappointed with the low btirate and dark scene performance. Everyone knows the issue here - it's a noisy mess. My first dramatic improvement of that was a DisplayCAL produced MadVR 3D LUT. Because I could A vs B the calibration in MadVR at a keystroke I could see the dramatic difference it made. After years of not calibrating my sets I understood the power of proper greyscale. My out the box response had way too much blue/purple. After calibration that cleaned up nicely.

In December I got a C9, holy cow, the near black performance of that was perfect. So I put up the usual black clipping pattern and noted it didn't clip anything but the pattern appeared much darker than on my C6, even at the same light level. I ran a MadVR 3D LUT and A vs B'd on the C9 but I actually preferred the out of the box response - Gamma was risen at to 2.6 at low IRE. This had the impact of the noise being much less visible. When you imposed a ruler flat 2.4 response - the low light performance exhibited more noise. This is on extremely dark scenes though.

So I ran a new 3D LUT on my C6 - this time targeting a 2.6 Gamma. Compression noise, real film noise and fake film noise and dark scene performance DRAMATICALLY improved. That's when comparing a 3D LUT where the only difference was Gamma targetted. I mean it's nearly as good as the C9. For a while I convinced it was doing a fancier version of just reducing the brightness by 2 steps to introduce a little crush. On those Black clipping patterns I couldn't really make out the last 2. But I was very happy with it anyway.

Thanks to mrtickleuk posting the Near black Wizziwig's windows.zip I gave them a shot. And I see the 0.5 % pattern sticking out from a pitch black background on my C6 with a 2.6 Gamma. So I believe I have no shadow crush.

Disclaimer: I do anything I care about in pitch black batcaves with velvet curtains everywhere and perfect window seals - designed for my JVC x9000. As soon as ambient light kicks in - Gamma 2.6 is probably too aggressive.

It's a shame the only way to get to higher Gamma's is MadVR's 3D LUT - but for any 6 series owners - give it a shot. You will have basically a new TV. You can even calibrated after the glasses to hit perfect 2.6 for exceptional 3D performance. I can even see the 0.5% pattern after my 3D glasses.
 

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hi, want to share my settings for the B9 to avoid black crush:

Brightness 51 (above this true black is lost)
Contrast 85
Gamma bt.1886
Ire 2.5: +5
Ire 5: +3

This brings back the shadows detail without washing out the image.
 
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