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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to rebuild my LMS ultra/vmp18 PR enclosure. I saw on the Funkywaves site they have an enclosure with the driver front firing and one PR directly above, then the other PR mounted on the opposite side of the enclosure. I also saw a photo of a similar sized enclosure with driver front firing mounted at the lower portion of the cabinet, with the PR's mounted high on either side of the box. Any opinion on pros and cons of these designs? Thanks. Attachment 219453

Attachment 219454

 

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At the frequencies where the PR is active, one shouldn't expect differences in room.


It's an aesthetic thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
would you think the curved edges are done with a large roundover bit? trying to figure out what size
 

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The pics are pretty small but they are probably similar to AE's cabinets who uses these MDF corners for large radius http://www.tapeease.com/cabinet1.htm


I think 1.5" is about the largest roundover bit you would want to use and you have to remove a small amount in about 3 passes to be safe. I would also only do that big of a roundover on a router table, freehand would be sketchy.


With the pic showing the PR on the same face Nathan is using a Pro5100 and the pic with the LMS shows the PR's on the opposite side's. I don't have any experience with the Pro5100 but with a sealed LMS 18" it actually moved the enclosure back so it has significant force. I would rather see the PR's mounted like the second pic just knowing what the LMS can do all by-itself.
 

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Quote:
I think 1.5" is about the largest roundover bit you would want to use and you have to remove a small amount in about 3 passes to be safe. I would also only do that big of a roundover on a router table, freehand would be sketchy.

I use a 1 1/4" roundover all the time free hand. Im not sure a 1.5" will even fit in a normal router. The 1 1/4" roundover is huge already.


Here is the 1 1/4" roundover on the outside of my new waveguide cabinets. The above roundover might be bigger still.

Attachment 219543
Attachment 219544

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray /forum/post/20798716


I use a 1 1/4" roundover all the time free hand.

Yeah but your crazy
It was just a warning for people who enjoy having all there digits



I always just assume that most people asking the question aren't as advanced as you Penn. A router can get away from an inexperienced woodworker especially if you are trying to remove too much with a large bit.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio
Yeah but your crazy
It was just a warning for people who enjoy having all there digits



I always just assume that most people asking the question aren't as advanced as you Penn. A router can get away from an inexperienced woodworker especially if you are trying to remove too much with a large bit.
The quality of the larger bits also make a big difference how safe they are to use, table or hand router. Large roundover bits, over 3/4" can be done safely, but experience is important, and vairable speed is a must. Also larger routers like the big porter cable 7518, help greatly.


FYI the roundover on those subs is 1.5" and is dont with a router bit, not premolded.


Also the driver being on the same face as one of the passives really does not affect the cabinet, rocking/vibrations, as the driver and passives do not apply the same forces at the same time, the important thing is for the passives to be opposing to cancel their mechanical forces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've just got the trusty bosch 1617 variable speed router. Not sure if that would cut it with that big of a round over
 

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I believe the major goal of opposed PRs is to reduce the amount of cabinet rocking.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by keager /forum/post/20800714


I've just got the trusty bosch 1617 variable speed router. Not sure if that would cut it with that big of a round over

You can comfortably do up to 1" in that size router, with the speed ~15k rpm. 1 1/4" if you know how to handle it safely, 1.5" Does not fit through the base on most routers that size. The important thing with doing any large roundover by hand is not to start on a corner, as the bit can grab and pull the router sideways(especially bad if you dont plan to round that corner), and never attempt to climb mill, and always pull the router towards you, never push. A good solution if your not wanting to round all the corners is to clamp a block of wood flush with the side of the cabinet that catches the bearing but low enough from the face so the bit is not cutting it, then you can set the router on the corner past the cabinet, get the bearing up to the block, and ease the bit into the cut, that way it has nowhere to go but where you want it to.
 
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