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Looking for a Deep Cavity In-Wall Sub

1275 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  RayGuy
In-wall subwoofers all seem to be super shallow, the manufacturers assume that you only have 3 inches or at most 5 inches of cavity space in the wall, because you are working with a 2x4 or 2x6 wall. Well I’m building some architectural columns in my home theater that will be 14-16 inches in depth, and probably 24 inches wide, and going from floor to ceiling. One column on each side will flank the theater screen and hold the L and R channel speakers up top and the subwoofer down low, and the center channel underneath the screen will also be housed in some carpentry. So I’m looking for an in-wall sub that can be mounted in this column will utilize the significant amount of cavity space that I have. I don’t want to overpay for a fancy in wall sub that has lackluster performance because it is so shallow. My other option is just to build a box cavity in the base of the column that a regular powered subwoofer can slide into. Looking at the SVS SB 3000 or the Paradigm Seismic 110 to fill this duty. This might be preferable as the sub would be isolated from the column somewhat, and there would be less vibrations. But I was wondering if there were any manufacturers out there of an deep cavity in wall sub. I guess this is why lots of guys build their own subwoofers...
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Triad has an InWall Silver Sub that's 15" deep. https://www.triadspeakers.com/products/subwoofwer/inwall-subwoofwer/iw-silver15-sub/

The company will also paint the grill to match your walls.
Thanks for the recommendation, the onwall silver sub is also an option, that one is just 8” deep. I would guess they sound similar. What do these both retail for? Is the amp included or extra? What about the bronze 10 and 6 cost?
You don't tell the subwoofer where to go, it tells you. ;)

Having predetermined locations in your theater for subwoofers is a bad idea. You need placement flexibility after the subs are in the room if you are at all concerned with maximizing performance. If your room is rectangular and sealed, the REW Room Simulator will give you a good idea of whether or not your proposed locations will work well.
You don't tell the subwoofer where to go, it tells you. ;)

Having predetermined locations in your theater for subwoofers is a bad idea. You need placement flexibility after the subs are in the room if you are at all concerned with maximizing performance. If your room is rectangular and sealed, the REW Room Simulator will give you a good idea of whether or not your proposed locations will work well.
Yes Alan, in a perfect world you would put the subwoofers exactly where they would sound the best, along with the tower LCR speakers and they would be as large as you need and budget would also be no consideration. But aesthetic considerations are often very important in home theaters, especially rooms that are multi-use and have to consider furniture arrangements and my 5 little kids and their friends knocking speakers over and climbing on subwoofers like they are a playground toy...

Does anyone know the retail cost of the Triad on wall silver sub?

https://www.triadspeakers.com/products/subwoofwer/onwall-subwoofwer/ow-silver-sub/

Or the cost of the RackAmp 700?

https://www.triadspeakers.com/products/subwoofwer/onwall-subwoofwer/ow-silver-sub/

The specs are the Triad website on both the sub and amp are meager. It doesn’t say how many watts the sub can handle, but just says the sub amp produces 600 watts. But that was the old RackAmp 600, the new Triad amp produces 700. I’d like to know if you could hook up two of these subs to one RackAmp 700. Or if that wouldn’t be enough power.
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The Triad OnWall Silver sub with the RackAmp 700 has an MSRP of $2200. The RackAmp $700 has an MSRP of $1000. These prices will increase by 10-13% after October 1, 2019.
Having an external amplifier has some advantages in a situation such as yours. In an enclosed space, heat dissipation would be an issue for many internally powered subs. Should not be much of an issue for one that is externally powered. That said, I would still consider some passive venting at the top of the column (or the sub portion, if enclosed) One vent top, one vent bottom.
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