[rnconync]

I have read a lot about the Marty Sub 18" but I think this is a bit too big for my space, but love the idea


Somewhere I thought I found a thread with smaller marty subs for 15 and 12" drivers....but can't find it anymore


Is there something I can build with similar output (obviously I won't be able to get the same) but fit a 12" or 15" driver?


I have read the SI Drivers are good

Also looking at some of the Dayton Ultimax drives

Have also read some about the TC Sounds drivers


Any preference on which is better?


I wouldn't mind buying a sub flatpack or building my own..but new to speaker building , I've read some info here which seems to help
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=375238


I hear a lot of people suggesting the iNuke amps, is there any advantage to these compared to the Plate amp that mounts on the sub itself? what am I gaining or losing goign one way or the other?



Thanks in advance

 

[Anthony_Gomez]

You don't need a big 12cuft full marty

You can also go as small as 4 cuft sealed with an 18" driver or 3 cuft with a 15" and an inuke.


A solid 12" or 15" driver ported will still need a big box if you want lots of output and low tunning (well, there are other small box options but not in the $400 budget)


People are keen on the inukes now because you get a ton of power for the dollar that plates can't touch. The DSP models are also super sweet for doing room corrections (plate amps can't do this either).

 

[rnconync]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony_Gomez  /t/1520149/looking-for-a-diy-build-around-400#post_24417353


You don't need a big 12cuft full marty

You can also go as small as 4 cuft sealed with an 18" driver or 3 cuft with a 15" and an inuke.


A solid 12" or 15" driver ported will still need a big box if you want lots of output and low tunning (well, there are other small box options but not in the $400 budget)


People are keen on the inukes now because you get a ton of power for the dollar that plates can't touch. The DSP models are also super sweet for doing room corrections (plate amps can't do this either).

Will I get the same kind of output with a 4 cuft sealed box though?


I was just looking at this build and it seems very tempting too:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462247/dayton-audio-15-ultimax-build/30


Do I need to go ported or should I just do a sealed box? Seems like a lot of people like ported for movies sealed for music, but both are good.


I would say my use is primarily for 75% movies and 25% music, but I want it to sound fast and tight for music also.


I'm not opposed to building the box from scratch with plans too...if that is cheaper...


And again.. I love the idea of the 18" ported Marty, but I think 12" or 15" might give me a better fit for size in my room...I think 4cuft box would be as big as I could go...maybe a little larger.


What exactly is the DSP? I keep reading a lot about it, but haven't researched it yet.

 

[Anthony_Gomez]

DSP = digital signal processing. EQ, filters, limiters etc all fall in this realm.


Before we keep going, we need to know your priorities. Since you said you are limited in size of box, do you value extension or loudness more?


Don't limit yourself to a driver. Limit yourself to enclosure size. You can get a 12, 15 and 18 all to work in 4 cuft. They all will have different trade offs.


If you can swing a ~ 24" cube, I'll just flat out say to build a "marty cube" if you want smaller, then there are other options, each with tradeoffs.

What is your budget for the sub (excluding amplifier)


Read the first post and you'll get a lot of answers to the questions in your head.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516724/martysub-flatpacks

 

[rnconync]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony_Gomez  /t/1520149/looking-for-a-diy-build-around-400#post_24417467


DSP = digital signal processing. EQ, filters, limiters etc all fall in this realm.


Before we keep going, we need to know your priorities. Since you said you are limited in size of box, do you value extension or loudness more?


Don't limit yourself to a driver. Limit yourself to enclosure size. You can get a 12, 15 and 18 all to work in 4 cuft. They all will have different trade offs.


If you can swing a ~ 24" cube, I'll just flat out say to build a "marty cube" if you want smaller, then there are other options, each with tradeoffs.

What is your budget for the sub (excluding amplifier)


Read the first post and you'll get a lot of answers to the questions in your head.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516724/martysub-flatpacks

Gonna go read the post now...


My priorities:

I'm not a bass head but want bass that will but a smile on my face (or most anyone's) in movies and music, mostly movies as mentioned above.

So I would like a good mix of extension and loudness...too loud makes my head hurt and I can't take it anymore...I don't know at this point what a reasonable output is, I would like to get good output down to around 15-20hz so I get all of the audible and some of the inaudible spectrum. If I can get it to remain reasonable flat down to 20HZ that would be awesome for my budget..


Budget excluding amp would probably be around $200-$300 for speaker and build...I have all the tools and glue so that is not a big deal. Closer to $200 is preferable...I was looking at the inuke 1000dsp as a possible amp, but am open to plate amp suggestions and others to work with my budget. Over all I would like to try and not top $400, but might have some wiggle room.


I think I would be very interested in the Marty Cube I could probably swing 24"x24"

Thanks again

 

[steve nn]

You always have the option of building dual 12"s if that appeals to you or dual 15"s for that matter and doing just the single amp or two plates. Sono is a option as well as wooden enclosures or Flat-packs. The nice thing about the Marty super-cube is you can build it yourself or do the flat-pack and all the figuring out has pretty much all been done. (although Anthony would figure things out for you lol) Add the dsp amp for some shaping and you're good to go? Performance wise, sky is the limit over here in DIY land.


Here is a 12" FP that is always a option if it appeals to you. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/4-ported-sub-flat-pack.html Or you can build like mentioned in the 12 or 15 - 18" version for le$$


I did this up the other night in about 4cf for another member that'll give you a little idea of a smaller enclosure with some different 12"s no dsp. They would not compare to the 18" super-cube or your own 18" build though..
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

[rnconync]

Thanks Steve,

From looking, that 24x24 marty cube fits and 18" driver, is that correct? Is there any dis advantage to 12" vs 15" vs 18" what am I really gaining with size

 

[splotten]

Here is one for the collection Steve.


Dayton Audio DVC385-88 (coils in parallel) in 5 cu ft. 20 Hz tune, 500w, Two 4" round ports, 1. port resonance >200 Hz, Max vent speed 23 m/s, minimum impedance 3,2 ohm (good for extracting power from NU3000), 2nd order BW HP, 2,5 db Q1 "bump" filter at 20Hz:




No filters:





It does a little better in 6 cu ft.

 

[bass addict]



Quote:
Originally Posted by rnconync  /t/1520149/looking-for-a-diy-build-around-400/0_80#post_24418124


what am I really gaining with size

A whole lotta displacement. When size isn't an issue, I would always default to the largest driver you can fit.


The wife would probably agree.

 

[steve nn]

^^++ Both posts. The reality is the larger the driver is the more volume the driver wants, well that included with the more excursion the more volume the driver wants. We can put you into dual budget driver units in about 3.5 - 4cfcf for $400ish that would hang with dual XXX over in ID. It just depends on what approach you want to go, with your criteria in mind. It's always nice to future proof to a certain extent, but then maybe you're a certain type that doesn't require the leap frogging ahead??

Quote:
From looking, that 24x24 marty cube fits and 18" driver, is that correct? Is there any dis advantage to 12" vs 15" vs 18" what am I really gaining with size

More spl at the cost of dsp which generally affects GD. The driver wants to roll off faster being it's in a undersized enclosure. You can only tune so low because of the volume won't support the longer vents associated with moving more air. A 20-22hz tuned sub of thes type will put out a very substantial amount of bass within it's limits though. The sims I provided are with no dsp associated like mentioned though.

Quote:
Here is one for the collection Steve.

Those look great! I was trying to stay with Erichs 4cf FP though with 12"s. For my $$ I would rather go that your route in a couple sono's or reg box style.

 

[splotten]

Yes i know, but in 4 cubes the ports get really long. I only posted it because OP wanted a cheap sub and the Dayton is reasonable at 140$. Also it seem to wok well within the confines of NU3000DSPs limited power. You could actually build two, run it with a 3000dsp and get what looks like very good bang for the buck (IMO

 

[steve nn]



Quote:
Originally Posted by splotten  /t/1520149/looking-for-a-diy-build-around-400#post_24418331


Yes i know, but in 4 cubes the ports get really long. I only posted it because OP wanted a cheap sub and the Dayton is reasonable at 140$. Also it seem to wok well within the confines of NU3000DSPs limited power.

Maybe you missed my EDIT at the last of my post? Anyway I fully agree. EDIT> I should have said your route to clarify better. I'll change it

 

[rnconync]

Cool, thanks all..I don't know if I want to go dual budget for $400, I would rather go for a better single for $400 and build another at a later date. Or do you think two 12"'s would be the best route? I want something that I can put and place and be happy with for quite some time...if that means 1 better sub for $400 rather than 2 , then I would rather do that...I do like the two sub setup I have now (two velodyne vx-11's)...but had a friend get the HSU STF2 and don't care for my setup as much anymore...hahaha...So now I want to build something that will blow that away and then some.

I'm planning on selling the two velodynes after doing this build for hopefully around $125 or so a piece locally


Whatever I build now, I'm hoping to have for quite a while and be happy with....



So assuming I want to go with a martycube design (24"x24" or smaller) ,what would you guys recommend for best all around value for speaker size and driver?

I mentioned some of the one's i had looked at in my first post...are there any other suggestions or favorites in my budget range?


from the sim's you provided it looks like I could get the output I would want from a 12" driver... I am thinking along the lines of a 12" or more than likely a 15" speaker for a happy medium between 12" and 18" (unless I can put the 18" in a marty cube and get good performance. or I decide to saw screw it and go with a full blown marty build ( but this is not as likely)


Also how the heck do you "tune" a sub? I'm sure I'll learn soon enough

 

[splotten]

Steve.


Oh yes. Sono would be nice for saving floor space. Also more flexible regarding total internal volume.

 

[steve nn]



Quote:
Originally Posted by rnconync  /t/1520149/looking-for-a-diy-build-around-400#post_24418371


Cool, thanks all..I don't know if I want to go dual budget for $400, I would rather go for a better single for $400 and build another at a later date. Or do you think two 12"'s would be the best route? I want something that I can put and place and be happy with for quite some time...if that means 1 better sub for $400 rather than 2 , then I would rather do that...I do like the two sub setup I have now (two velodyne vx-11's)...but had a friend get the HSU STF2 and don't care for my setup as much anymore...hahaha...So now I want to build something that will blow that away and then some.

I'm planning on selling the two velodynes after doing this build for hopefully around $125 or so a piece locally


Whatever I build now, I'm hoping to have for quite a while and be happy with....



So assuming I want to go with a martycube design (24"x24" or smaller) ,what would you guys recommend for best all around value for speaker size and driver?

I mentioned some of the one's i had looked at in my first post...are there any other suggestions or favorites in my budget range?


from the sim's you provided it looks like I could get the output I would want from a 12" driver... I am thinking along the lines of a 12" or more than likely a 15" speaker for a happy medium between 12" and 18" (unless I can put the 18" in a marty cube and get good performance. or I decide to saw screw it and go with a full blown marty build ( but this is not as likely)


Also how the heck do you "tune" a sub? I'm sure I'll learn soon enough

For $400, why not a good high excursion 12 or a 15" (like splot suggested) in about 5-6cf internal tuned around 18hz. You could bump it up a notch to a higher excursion 15" if you like. Either or, they're all formidable subs except if you were to compare them to some of the real heavy duty subs around here.

 

[Jinjuku]

You could do 2 dual opposed Infinity Reference 1262/1260 (W). That would be a total of 4 12 inch drivers. One will give you ~102/3 dB at 20Hz. Stack them r and you get ~108dB at 20Hz.


$240-50 in drivers and add $100 in dimensional lumber.

 

[steve nn]



Quote:
Originally Posted by splotten  /t/1520149/looking-for-a-diy-build-around-400#post_24418377


Steve.


Oh yes. Sono would be nice for saving floor space. Also more flexible regarding total internal volume.

Yeah if he did decide on sono that would be the easiest build route no doubt about it. Venting would be a piece of cake!

 

[splotten]

You could also try the new titanic 15 MK4. But then you are looking at minimum 6 cu ft ( I think ). Cant find the model. Ill redo it later.

 

[steve nn]



Quote:
Originally Posted by splotten  /t/1520149/looking-for-a-diy-build-around-400#post_24418499


You could also try the new titanic 15 MK4. But then you are looking at minimum 6 cu ft ( I think ). Cant find the model. Ill redo it later.

You're correct splot, it looks good 18hz tune no dsp, hp at 16hz... 110 dB at 20hz... 8cf would be awesome though.

 

[splotten]

Yes I'm fiddling with it now. It looks good in a number of different configurations, but i cant squeeze into anything near 4 cu ft. 7 or 8 cubes look much better no matter what tune i look at.


OP. what is your maximum external box size? You know the marty cube is Much bigger than 4 cubes? Its close to 8.5 cu ft total volume...


I looked as your friends subs. If that is all you want to beat then two 12" vented subs is going to do just fine and can easily be kept at 3.5 or 4 cubes internal volume.