[Lonewolf7002]

Hi all,

I've decided I'd like to try making my own sub. I've started doing some reading, but wow there is a lot of information. So I was hoping for some advice on what to build! I had a look at the list of DIY projects but there are so many of them!

I'm looking for something easy to build, not too complicated - preferably something with detailed step by step instructions and exact measurements! I'm good with either sealed or ported. I will likely look at getting an inuke NU1000DSP. I won't be pumping reference movie volumes out of it, and I don't need lower then 20Hz out of it. I just want flat, tight bass from it.

I live in Canada. I'd also love a suggestion of an available driver that would go with whatever build is recommended.

Any advice is appreciated! Thank you.

 

[Mocs123]

Have you looked at the VBSS Build Thread? Does being in Canada effect the PA460 driver availability?

 

[Jk7.2]

If you wanted to use the closeout 150 dollar sub from diysg, I could send you a cutlist for a ported cab tuned to about 22hz that you would like for your needs. I have built 6 of them for others, and plan 4 more for myself. They are 20x24x18. Let me know. It’s a cab I designed with the help of a forum member. Eng-399. In my opinion they work perfect with that cheap but excellent driver.

 

[Trimlock]

VBSS would be perfect for running off the 1000dsp, but in order to get “tight” bass you will need a combination of DSP and positioning. Most subs can deliver what you want but it’s usually the room that messes things up.


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[lawdogx]

The easiest, most painless DIY sub you can build is anything from Kevin and John:

https://shop.gsgad.com/

I’m not sure if they ship to Canada but the subs are expertly designed, precut, and have very detailed instructions, from building to wiring to amp set-up. And the support is fantastic.

Also, the NX1000D (the current version of that inuke model) is only like $20 less expensive than the much more capable NX3000d (at least here in the states). That amp would open up more options for you in terms of output and adding another sub.

If you don’t mind some sawing the VBSS or DIYSG driver option mentioned above would be great options as well.

 

[Lonewolf7002]

The replies have been helpful and given me a direction to start going in. I'm surprised the recommendations are for ported subs, I had thought sealed would be easier to build lol. I'm aware of the trade-offs between ported and sealed and would be happy either way, really.

Have you looked at the VBSS Build Thread? Does being in Canada effect the PA460 driver availability?

I'll go take a look now, thanks! I found the PA460 on sale at Parts Express for $90 US. They don't seem to ship to Canada, but I found a canadian distributor selling it for $150 CDN. So it IS available.

If you wanted to use the closeout 150 dollar sub from diysg, I could send you a cutlist for a ported cab tuned to about 22hz that you would like for your needs. I have built 6 of them for others, and plan 4 more for myself. They are 20x24x18. Let me know. It’s a cab I designed with the help of a forum member. Eng-399. In my opinion they work perfect with that cheap but excellent driver.

Do you mean this sub? https://www.diysoundgroup.com/buyout-15-sub.html I would have to see if they ship to Canada. I could be interested in that cutlist! They are fairly easy to build?

VBSS would be perfect for running off the 1000dsp, but in order to get “tight” bass you will need a combination of DSP and positioning. Most subs can deliver what you want but it’s usually the room that messes things up.

I was planning on using DSP to tune the response, and proper positioning is essential. I'll use REW to assist with that.

The easiest, most painless DIY sub you can build is anything from Kevin and John:

https://shop.gsgad.com/

I’m not sure if they ship to Canada but the subs are expertly designed, precut, and have very detailed instructions, from building to wiring to amp set-up. And the support is fantastic.

Also, the NX1000D (the current version of that inuke model) is only like $20 less expensive than the much more capable NX3000d (at least here in the states). That amp would open up more options for you in terms of output and adding another sub.

If you don’t mind some sawing the VBSS or DIYSG driver option mentioned above would be great options as well.

I had a look at the website and I do agree they would probably be the most painless I could find! It doesn't look like they ship to Canada tho. Even if they did, the cost of the kit converted to Canadian currency, plus an expected very high cost of shipping, would make it unrealistic.

I didn't know about the NX1000D model. I had looked at the NU1000DSP which is $389 CDN. The 3000 is $572. Seeing the NX line, the 1000 is $439 and the 3000 is $469. If the NX line is better (it sure looks better) then going with the 3000 makes sense. Thanks!

 

[buggers]

$150 for the PA460 is reasonable, go for it!

 

[Lonewolf7002]

$150 for the PA460 is reasonable, go for it!

Does the choice of driver make much of a difference these days? I assume with DSP it's not as important as it used to be?

 

[buggers]

Driver choice is always important. As the saying goes "Garbage in garbage out" That particular driver has been used in so many DIY subs and mid base modules that I would say it has proven itself quite well.

 

[notfastenough]

Does the choice of driver make much of a difference these days? I assume with DSP it's not as important as it used to be?

Read up a little more on the VBSS thread. The inuke DSP settings are specific to the combination of sub, enclosure, and amp. That thread will be your bass bible, follow it, live it, love it

 

[Lonewolf7002]

Whoops, it seems my question was too open ended. Obviously quality of driver is important. A very long time ago, when I built a sub or two for my car, you needed to the build the size of the box around the specs of the driver you were using to get it to sound good. If you plopped a different driver in the same box, it wouldn't perform as well if it had different specs. If I built a VBSS or a minimarty and plopped in any quality, proven driver, would it matter much that the volume of the box may not be the optimal size for the driver? Or, with DSP, is it less of an issue these days?

 

[lawdogx]

For the PA460, the VBSS thread is the Bible, exactly what your asking, the driver is the PA460, the box is the one on the first post (or the slot ported version on page 27), and the DSP settings are attached on the bottom of the first post. It’s a cookbook for that driver/box/amp combination. If you were going with an inuke/nx amp and a pa460 driver I wouldn’t look anywhere else.

 

[Zarkoff500]

Whoops, it seems my question was too open ended. Obviously quality of driver is important. A very long time ago, when I built a sub or two for my car, you needed to the build the size of the box around the specs of the driver you were using to get it to sound good. If you plopped a different driver in the same box, it wouldn't perform as well if it had different specs. If I built a VBSS or a minimarty and plopped in any quality, proven driver, would it matter much that the volume of the box may not be the optimal size for the driver? Or, with DSP, is it less of an issue these days?

For the VBSS, the enclosure and driver were tuned with the inuke/NX DSP settings for optimal performance and protection. They are basically bullet proof but only with the PA460 driver and DSP settings provided. I'm sure other drivers may work but since the design is proven, it might be a hassle to get away from the original design. However, this is the DIY section so have at

As for a MiniMarty, you are correct in that you would need to model a different driver in that sized cab and tuning to see if it would work. Winisd is free and would give a pretty good idea.

 

[EndersShadow]

Whoops, it seems my question was too open ended. Obviously quality of driver is important. A very long time ago, when I built a sub or two for my car, you needed to the build the size of the box around the specs of the driver you were using to get it to sound good. If you plopped a different driver in the same box, it wouldn't perform as well if it had different specs. If I built a VBSS or a minimarty and plopped in any quality, proven driver, would it matter much that the volume of the box may not be the optimal size for the driver? Or, with DSP, is it less of an issue these days?

The VBSS is setup for a PA460 "optimally". Other drivers may work ok, but you'd need to model in WinISD to be sure. The Minimarty is configured for most other 18's (Dayton 460HO, Dayton Ultimax 18, Stereo Integrity 18's, etc).

The "Marty" thread has some graphs that will help you see how various 18" driver would perform. The graphs are for the Full Marty, which is 11 cubic feet, but still help you see which drivers perform a bit better.

Best bet would be to figure out what design you want to go with and then we can help you pick the best driver for it within your budget. We can also help model it in WinISD for you.

 

[Lonewolf7002]

Wow, thanks for the great responses! Okay, I understand better now about the driver. I've spent a bit of time looking at the VBSS and a lot of time looking at the Marty. The full marty looked super easy to build if I picked up 2'x4' MDF, but it's too big for my room. The marty cube would be more realistic. I'll spend more time reading up on the VBSS next, and seeing the ported version. Thanks!!

Best bet would be to figure out what design you want to go with and then we can help you pick the best driver for it within your budget. We can also help model it in WinISD for you.

Wow, much appreciated, that's amazing! I'll try take a look at WinISD as well. I'll choose between the VBSS and martycube very soon. I'm looking forward to trying my hand at making my own sub!

 

[Kpilk]

Did the OP say Sub? Surely he meant Sub's'.

 

[peruser]

Did the OP say Sub? Surely he meant Sub's'.

Naturally.

 

[Lonewolf7002]

Did the OP say Sub? Surely he meant Sub's'.

haha well one to start! Been a while since I've built anything, so I'll keep it simple to start! I've had a 12" sub for the last 20 years that has served me well, 400W max lol. Whatever I build will walk all over what I have now, so I'll need to build at least a second one to replace that 12"

 

[Zarkoff500]

The VBSS is designed to use two enclosures which are each larger than a Marty Cube (6.25 cft vs 4.75). My avatar picture is a Marty Cube with an UM18. The cube actually has a better frequency response with the Dayton 15" or 18" HO drivers but they are a bit more expensive then the PA460. The Cube will likely have better low end and the VBSS better mid bass. The VBSS does have decent output in the 15 or 20 hz range though.

 

[Kpilk]

Parts Express carries some nice flat packs if you decide to go sealed. The 4 cuft with an 18" will be a good start.