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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a post here http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-d...ers-subwoofers/1934921-home-theater-help.html asking for advice on a sub to replace my existing one. Basically what I was told was to get what I think is best for for me which is probably the best advice that can be given since that is what it comes down to. What I prefer is something along the lines of a flat pack but it doesn't have to be all in one solution and something that wont annoy the neighbors. I do have woodworking experience just no tools so that limits what I can do.

I guess what I am looking for now more then anything is some sort of idiots guide for speakers and home theaters so I can learn what all of the numbers mean and how everything works together. I would love to learn how to use WinISD and all the other software so I can design my own boxes and help others but I have no idea where to start. Everything I have found so far assumes you have some knowledge all ready or just tells to put this number there but doesn't really explain why. I dont like not understanding and it is driving me nuts :D

edit:add post link
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is my original post from the other forum if needed

I am currently researching information to upgrade the speakers in my home theater system. Right now what I currently have is a Denon AVR 2113ci, Bose towers for my mains with Bose rear surrounds and center and a Boston Acoustic 10" sub in a small ported box. All of the speakers are about 15 years old and the sub is finally starting to show its age so I figured it would be a good time to start some upgrades.

I am currently renting a house that has a neighbor about 10 feet away, so I am looking for something that will sound good for home theater use, and not piss off the neighbors to much. The room all of this will be in is going to be horrible for a home theater. It has wood laminate floors with an open floor plan that is shared with a kitchen. Off the top of my head it is about 10' by about 30' with no wall between the kitchen and living room. The living room is where everything will be. In the wall directly across from the TV is a big cut out that goes into the room behind it as well as a large opening that connects all the rooms together. If more specific info is needed or pics I can update when I get home from work today.

What I want to do is start with the sub first and from what I can tell a ported box will be my best bet in this space and a MartyCube seems like it fits what I want. I would like to tune it to around 20hz but that isn't a necessity and I don't want to piss off the neighbors. The question I have with the sub is would a bigger sub be better to fill the space or would two smaller ones work better? As for a budget it will vary, the longer I wait the more I can put towards it but I would like to keep it around $600 for the sub, amp, and unfinished box but I can do more if it will help. I would prefer flat packs but I can cut the wood myself if needed, just don't have the tools for it yet. I have tried to use WinISD but haven't actually sat down with it to learn how it works and what everything does and means so if they are any good guides anyone knows of with that it would be a big help as well.
Thanks corradizo, that link looks like exactly what I am looking for! Now to find time for it.

I have been looking at the ported boxes on the DIYSG page but I am still undecided as to which would be the best for me. To fill the space I think the Stonehenge with a HT18 and a iNuke 1000 would be the best way to go but then I wonder how my neighbors will react to it. I don't normally use my home theater loud so I am primarily looking for something that sounds better then my Bose which shouldn't be hard to do.:D
 

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You might also want to get a kit from parts express. These are just assemble yourself.

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-system-kits/287

I don't know your budget but if it's up to a grand I would get two 4cuft sealed flat packs or diysg stone henge, 2 SI HT18, 1 inuke 3000dsp amp and call'er a day.

Edit:
Just read the neighbor part. Super low stuff will travel. We tend to go overboard here. You could high pass the sub's when needed (cut off the really low frequencies).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just read the neighbor part. Super low stuff will travel. We tend to go overboard here. You could high pass the sub's when needed (cut off the really low frequencies).
I like this idea with the high pass filter to help with the neighbors later or night or when ever!! I could get one sub now with the iNuke 3000DSP and a second later as the budget allows if I decide I need it.
 

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Especially the DSP, critical to keep ported subs from bottoming on all but the beefiest Subs/Drivers at higher power.

According to Winisd, my little 225W rated MFW15 drivers in my Micros would bottom hard at less than the 225 without it(only 13mm XMAX), but with a 12DB Butterworth it's fine to ~ 500W....of course it probably won't take the heat...that's a different story!
 
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