[Slotline]

I recently purchased a pair of 805 D3's. I'm trying to build my 5.1 surround package. For the rears I need to do in ceiling. I plan on using the speakers for theater 90% of the time. I'd like to stick with B&W to complete the setup but am open to other options especially for the rear ceiling speakers. I've been looking at the B&W HTM2-D3 for the center and DB3D for the sub. For the rear ceilings perhpas the 8.5 D's or 7.3 S2's.

Any recommendations are appreciated. If I had to save money I'd probably focus on the rears.

 

[gajCA]

I recently purchased a pair of 805 D3's. I'm trying to build my 5.1 surround package. For the rears I need to do in ceiling. I plan on using the speakers for theater 90% of the time. I'd like to stick with B&W to complete the setup but am open to other options especially for the rear ceiling speakers. I've been looking at the B&W HTM2-D3 for the center and DB3D for the sub. For the rear ceilings perhpas the 8.5 D's or 7.3 S2's.

Any recommendations are appreciated. If I had to save money I'd probably focus on the rears.

Do you really need that compact a subwoofer?

Does your receiver had sub EQ?

If it does you might be better off with dual 12 sealed subs and save $1000 or more.

Dual subs are more than twice as good as a single sub.

No need to match the sub brand with the speaker brand.

 

[Zorba922]

Any recommendations are appreciated. If I had to save money I'd probably focus on the rears.

90% HT usage, you're entirely barking up the wrong tree buying a $3K pair of bookshelves. I imagine nobody at the speaker store bothered to tell you that it's the CENTER SPEAKER that actually does most (up to 80%) of the output during HT?

I know the B&Ws have pretty cabinets, but I would return them immediately and start all over again with a completely different brand.

And for the love of God, please do NOT waste your money on that $3K useless little sub just because it's from the same brand and looks pretty too!

(Unless your spouse is holding a gun to your head for aesthetics and/or paying for all this not you.)

 

[pacman9270]

I must agree with Zorba. If you're a 2-channel music listener, you got a great pair of speakers. If not, then go with a much less expensive brand. Also, the sub is the one speaker that does not in any way need to match the other speakers in your setup. You can listen to REL, Martin Logan, and SVS subs at a Best Buy store for quick reference. May not be the best environment but it can give you some information to see what you like.

 

[Slotline]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I didn't speak to anyone about the purchase of the 805's and purchased open box online so no returns possible. Sounds like they might not be the best use of funds for HT so maybe I'll start listening to more 2 channel music I know most people will probably cringe hearing this but yes the spouse requires design to be the most important aspect and I love the design of the new 800 series. I think the B&W matching center HTM2-D3 makes sense...these will all be visible on the bookshelf and as noted above the center is primary for HT. I'm considering putting the sub into the custom cabinet I'm having made perhaps with a cloth front or similar to it will not be exposed....this might be my best opportunity to get the best sub for sound and not worry about aesthetics. I think I'll have room for a larger sub too...perhaps up to 16-18" exterior dimensions. I'll check out the REL, ML, and SVS mentioned above....any particular specs I should be looking for when evaluating? Also it sounds like the rears could be any brand so I'll do the same and look for less expensive and better suited options....specs for the rears I should look out for?

Last I'm leaning towards the 5.1 instead of 7.1. The room just isn't that large and i'm not sure 7.1 is really needed.

Thanks for the comments

 

[Zorba922]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I didn't speak to anyone about the purchase of the 805's and purchased open box online so no returns possible. Sounds like they might not be the best use of funds for HT so maybe I'll start listening to more 2 channel music I know most people will probably cringe hearing this but yes the spouse requires design to be the most important aspect and I love the design of the new 800 series. I think the B&W matching center HTM2-D3 makes sense...these will all be visible on the bookshelf and as noted above the center is primary for HT. I'm considering putting the sub into the custom cabinet I'm having made perhaps with a cloth front or similar to it will not be exposed....this might be my best opportunity to get the best sub for sound and not worry about aesthetics. I think I'll have room for a larger sub too...perhaps up to 16-18" exterior dimensions. I'll check out the REL, ML, and SVS mentioned above....any particular specs I should be looking for when evaluating? Also it sounds like the rears could be any brand so I'll do the same and look for less expensive and better suited options....specs for the rears I should look out for?

Last I'm leaning towards the 5.1 instead of 7.1. The room just isn't that large and i'm not sure 7.1 is really needed.

Thanks for the comments

The HTM2-DR should be decent since it's a 3 way design, but at $4K a pop it's only $3,000 more than what it probably should cost.

Oh well, if you have money to burn and a wife who won't be denied then it is what it is.

A sub doesn't have to be so tiny if you put it in a corner, which is where you will maximize its output through boundary reinforcement...especially if your room is not fully enclosed but opens up to adjacent spaces (open plan) and/or has high ceilings. The sub interacts with all CONTIGUOUS space, not just the actual listening area.

It's very easy to disguise a sub as a lamp and/or plant stand. Since you're using bookshelf speakers not towers, the sub is essential and if you watch a lot of blockbuster action/thriller movies, it will be worth its weight in gold.

What to look for:
1. Since HT is 90% of your usage, I'd stick to PORTED not SEALED subs.
2. SIZE: The larger the enclosure, the better.
3. WEIGHT: The heavier it is, usually the better components/hardware inside.
4. WATTS
5. 3db roll off: the lower the better

Since you clearly have an ample budget, you would probably be happiest with this sub which has an attractive cabinet and a nice app that lets you control it from your phone, great customer service and free return shipping both ways:

PB16-Ultra

The ultimate ported box home subwoofer. Earth-shaking levels of bass far below human hearing limits, yet incredibly accurate, detailed and controlled.

www.svsound.com

 

[Slotline]

The HTM2-DR should be decent since it's a 3 way design, but at $4K a pop it's only $3,000 more than what it probably should cost.

Oh well, if you have money to burn and a wife who won't be denied then it is what it is.

A sub doesn't have to be so tiny if you put it in a corner, which is where you will maximize its output through boundary reinforcement...especially if your room is not fully enclosed but opens up to adjacent spaces (open plan) and/or has high ceilings. The sub interacts with all CONTIGUOUS space, not just the actual listening area.

It's very easy to disguise a sub as a lamp and/or plant stand. Since you're using bookshelf speakers not towers, the sub is essential and if you watch a lot of blockbuster action/thriller movies, it will be worth its weight in gold.

What to look for:
1. Since HT is 90% of your usage, I'd stick to PORTED not SEALED subs.
2. SIZE: The larger the enclosure, the better.
3. WEIGHT: The heavier it is, usually the better components/hardware inside.
4. WATTS
5. 3db roll off: the lower the better

Since you clearly have an ample budget, you would probably be happiest with this sub which has an attractive cabinet and a nice app that lets you control it from your phone, great customer service and free return shipping both ways:

PB16-Ultra

The ultimate ported box home subwoofer. Earth-shaking levels of bass far below human hearing limits, yet incredibly accurate, detailed and controlled.

www.svsound.com

Thank you, super helpful. My room is an open floorplan and opens behind the couch to the kitchen. Ceiling height is 8' in theater room and 9' in kitchen. The sub can go pretty close to the corner of the room....maybe 2-3' away. What are some of the main considerations if I put it in the cabinet i'm designing, does airspace in cabinet matter, material if I have a screen, vibration of cabinet which speakers will be sitting on, heat buildup in cabinet....just some items i'm thinking might be problematic to putt it in a cabinet but wanted to see if it could work. I'll make sure to only consider ported. That PB16-ultra looks like a beast 25X22X31 inches. I'll play around with some designs to see if I can make it work.

Any rear speaker suggestions...i've seen Revel mentioned in another thread. Should I make sure to get boxes in the ceiling for the rears...drywall is off so it's not an issue from an install standpoint.

Thanks!

 

[Zorba922]

Thank you, super helpful. My room is an open floorplan and opens behind the couch to the kitchen. Ceiling height is 8' in theater room and 9' in kitchen. The sub can go pretty close to the corner of the room....maybe 2-3' away. What are some of the main considerations if I put it in the cabinet i'm designing, does airspace in cabinet matter, material if I have a screen, vibration of cabinet which speakers will be sitting on, heat buildup in cabinet....just some items i'm thinking might be problematic to putt it in a cabinet but wanted to see if it could work. I'll make sure to only consider ported. That PB16-ultra looks like a beast 25X22X31 inches. I'll play around with some designs to see if I can make it work.

Any rear speaker suggestions...i've seen Revel mentioned in another thread. Should I make sure to get boxes in the ceiling for the rears...drywall is off so it's not an issue from an install standpoint.

If you plan on doing Atmos later then you should limit your surrounds to in wall, on wall, or freestanding speakers (towers or bookshelves on stands). If not, then you certainly could use in-ceilings for the rear surrounds. I wouldn't worry too much about them since they do such a miniscule % of the output compared to the fronts. Revel is a solid choice.

I'd pass on the cabinet unless your wife insists. No reason to further complicate things.