Hi James. Are you mounting a DLP or CRT projector? What is the weight of the projector? I recently mounted two CRT's with DIY mounts. I have read that lightweight DLP's can be mounted using speaker mount brackets.
You need to consider several things like type of projector, weight, type of ceiling, and ease of adjustability. I made a mount for my Sony VW10HT. I used 1"x1" angle aluminum. Created a square frame which gets bolted to the three threaded mount locations of the projector. Then have four angle aluminum up-rights that bolt to the corners of this frame, then get screwed to the sides of the ceiling joists. It is 'rock solid' and looks good, even thought it is hidden for the most part by the drop ceiling pannels.
Used a piece of shelving and cut it to the size of my projector (X400)
I drilled holes in it to allow to mount the projector to it (up side down, hanging from the ceiling)
I used 4 cupboard end pieces (angled 90' metal pieces) which I attached to the wood.
Then I put 4 hooks in the ceiling (about 2-3 feet apart in a square formation about 3x3). Make sure that it is about the same place you want the projector to be (for me it was about 15-20 feet from my screen)
I bought a light chain and cut it to 4 pieces (cut it longer, you can always adjust later to you need), put the chains on the hooks on the ceiling.
I also bought 4 pieces of chain/wire tentioners (at ACE about $1 a piece) to allow fine adjustments. I hooked those to the 90' metal pieces. (See the bottom link to know what it is...)
Then I lifted the projector and attached the tensioners to the chain.
Next I hooked projector to its cables (as it affects its balance).
The I adjusted the height of the picture by putting the tentioners in the appropriate chain link. Later I made fine adjustments using the tentioners.
Now for the chain remainder - do not cut it, put it on the shelf piece to assist in balancing, it helps...
The whole thing cost me about $30 and was about 2 hours max.
I thought that it would be nice to use an aluminum piece instead of wood, but it is easier to work with wood.
Seems pretty professional looking with minimal ceiling drilling, can adjust for keystoning, and is CHEAP. You'd have to make sure the location is perfect for your screen as it can't slide left, right, backward, or forward.
Damn, why didn't I think of that. Wall-mount near ceiling is a great idea as LT-150 has side exhaust and ventilation on its bottom side (which would be flipped up for even better ventilation). The 2 rails of slots allow height adjustments. Moving the unit manually allows for L & R keystone adjustment. Tilting its rear or front allows for up & down keystone adjustment. This is alot simpler and safer as mid-ceiling mount can be prone to head butting or arm swinging if your ceiling is less than 9 feet. This is probably easier to hushed too as only 3 sides to enclose (L, R, and front) compared to 5 sides for mid-ceiling mount (L, R, front, rear, and bottom).
The only thing you need to keep in mind, Huey, is that your LT150 does not have a zoom lens (if I recall correctly). If you have a need to move the projector closer/farther from the screen for different aspect ratios, my solution might not be practical.
As for height adjustment, I use the eyebolt only. The vertical range of adjustment I need to raise and lower my VT540 is less than 1/2" inch. The wall rails just made it easier to "guesstimate" the shelf placement and allowed for a rough adjustment of the shelf height; the hinge-and-eyebolt mechanism provides the fine control.
I mounted my LT150 in along the same lines as the mic stand linked above -- I purchased a cheap tri-pod at Best Buy for a digital camera (~$19.99). I pulled the legs off the stand as well as the outer center tube - this left me the the single inner tube used for height adjustment along with the camera mount.
I mounted a 3/4" pipe floor flange on my ceiling joist, and attached a 6" - 3/4" pipe nipple to it. I then threaded the tripod assembly onto it. In essence, the black pipe is the new "outside tube" of the upside down tripod.
I cut a small board in an "L" shape and drilled three holes in it which I attached to the LT150 with 4mm soc cap screws. The piece that usually screws onto your camera was placed on the mounting board and screwed down with four wood screw.
The unit was then slipped into the tripod lock and I started adjusting my picture: up, down, pitch, roll, yawl(?). With my setup I don't have any adjustment in the plains which are parallel and perpendicular to the screen (left-right & throw). I am thinking of modifications where you could mount the pipe flange to a piece of wood first and then attach it to a rail, slide or grooved mating piece to provied more flexability.
This mounting can move forward or backward (depending on the length of the horizontal pole or Boom you choose), so you don't have to be 100% precise in terms of distance from the screen.
Try to be as precise as you can in finding the exact center of the ceiling in order to match the screen's center. Anyway, you can always "tilt" the projector a little with this system. I am pretty happy with it and my wallet is even happier. If you need more photos just let me know !!.
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