[dwander]

I’ve got an Eaton UPS. It’s a model 5PX. It’s too loud as is for my room because of the fan. So I ordered some quieter Fans. But now the problem is bc those fans don’t spin at the same speed as the original it shows a “fan fault.” I was cool to silence the alarm and just deal with the red light but it won’t distribute power when there’s a fan fault.

So either looking for:
1. a fan that will work and not be too loud.
2. A way to trick the ups into thinking my current fan is spinning at a higher rpm or something like that.
3. Or a way for it still do it’s job with the “fan fault” light on.

In the end I have a way around all this by sticking it in a different place and just running the projector power to it. But I like the way it looks and wanted to run most of my theater through it in my rack so that’s still plan B until I’m sure I’m SOL with a plan A.

Anyway, I appreciate the help.

 

[ulti]

I know this thread is old but curious what you ended up doing. I’m about to replace my 5px’s fans when they come in as well.

 

[dwander]

I know this thread is old but curious what you ended up doing. I’m about to replace my 5px’s fans when they come in as well.

Took me a while but I did figure it out. You can build the circuit yourself which i originally tried but couldn’t get it to work. Turns out my issue was I was using the wrong variable pot. By the time i figured that out i had already ordered these on amazon:
WINGONEER 5PCS NE555 Pulse Generator Adjustable Frequency Module 5-12V DC
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www.amazon.com

You’ll just need to use a multimeter to set the pot to the right resistance. I don’t remember what that was though. I know i wrote it down somewhere.

 

[ulti]

So if I use those you linked from Amazon and adjust the pot it’ll stop the fan fault error? Using a multimeter on the yellow, what measurement am I aiming for? Btw is this just for yellow or do I connect all 3 cables to the circuit?

 

[dwander]

So if I use those you linked from Amazon and adjust the pot it’ll stop the fan fault error? Using a multimeter on the yellow, what measurement am I aiming for? Btw is this just for yellow or do I connect all 3 cables to the circuit?

I gotta take a look at it again to refresh my memory. I saved everything from when I was trying to figure this out so I’ll be able to explain how to do it.

But the fan can be powered as normal. It’s just the signal connection that comes from the circuit that goes into the fan header on the board.

If I remember correctly I split the + and ground coming off the board to get power to both the circuit and the fan. Then I connected the signal from the circuit to the signal on fan header. Basically the circuit creates a pulse that simulates the fan spinning a right speed.

On the bottom of the circuit underneath the pot there are 3 points. You can see it in the picture on Amazon. You set your multimeter to measure resistance (ohms) and measure on points 1 and 2. Then you just adjust the pot until it reads the correct resistance. It’s a little annoying bc I think that pot goes up to 1,000,000 ohms and your trying to get 1700 ohms or something like that. So takes some small adjustments to get the right resistance. Just trying to get as close as possible anyway. Not going to be exact. But if you’re close it should stop the fan fault.

anyway, I’ll double check if everything I just said is correct. And I’ll figure out what the correct resistance is.

 

[ulti]

Thanks! I’ll order the pwm pot board you linked. I can get the quieter fans spinning but yea likely that they spin slower (quieter and more efficient) which is tripping the tach wire lead that the board is expecting. Lmk if you find your notes and thanks again

 

[dwander]

Thanks! I’ll order the pwm pot board you linked. I can get the quieter fans spinning but yea likely that they spin slower (quieter and more efficient) which is tripping the tach wire lead that the board is expecting. Lmk if you find your notes and thanks again

Do you know the original fans RPM rating?