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Discussion Starter #21
If you listen at typical 60-75db volume levels, should be ok.

But if you like it louder, and/or you want to play it safe, you'd be better off with 8 ohm speakers with sensitivity closer to 90db.

About 15 years ago, Marantz receivers were known for having robust power supplies.

However, in 2017 Marantz was bought by a conglomerate that also owns Denon and Onkyo. I have no idea how their current receivers' hardware is, if they've adopted cost-cutting measures by using smaller/lighter/weaker power supplies while hyping cheap electronic bells and whistles to sell. It does seem like receivers from the early to mid 00s weigh on average 8-10lbs more than today's models.
This definitely holds true for HK receivers. I dont know what that company did. I loved my old HK, I went with Marantz this time because I wasnt too sure about HK anymore.
 

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However, in 2017 Marantz was bought by a conglomerate that also owns Denon and Onkyo. I have no idea how their current receivers' hardware is, if they've adopted cost-cutting measures by using smaller/lighter/weaker power supplies while hyping cheap electronic bells and whistles to sell. It does seem like receivers from the early to mid 00s weigh on average 8-10lbs more than today's models.
I could be wrong, but perhaps they changed to Class D amps instead of A/B (t least for their lower-tier models)?
 

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No I meant too much for my Marantz SR5012 to handle. This entire thread is about my concern over the 4 ohms rating of the speakers I want get. Many seem to think it will be okay to use it for my work speakers. I wanted to know would that mean it would be fine to get the Elac center, surround and Atmos speakers from the same line up (they are all 4 ohms), or would that be too much for my receiver? Sorry I am not sure if I am making sense.
Your amp has pre outs so IF you find you are lacking in power or just want to try an outboard 2 channel amp, they are not that expensive.

$299 for an Emotiva A150.

If you wanted a lot of power, like 300 watts into 4 ohms, two X Series Stealth PA-1 Balanced Class-D Monoblock Power Amplifiers would be double that.

But chances are your 140 watt into 6 ohm receiver, even more into 4 ohms, will be fine.
 

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I could be wrong, but perhaps they changed to Class D amps instead of A/B (t least for their lower-tier models)?
No, they didn't. Which is really weird because those NR series receivers are really tiny and using Class D in them would make perfect sense.

However, I think that generally the mainstream AVR makers prefer to keep using big AB amps because consumers associate "good" receivers with big heavy, expensive black boxes...the SUV buyer's mentality at work. I suspect that's why HK's slimline class D amps and Panasonic's XR series of price-defying slimline receivers didn't survive more than a few years.

Even Pioneer Elite has scaled back its Class D3 amps to only 1 or 2 of its top shelf models; my LX502 was the last of the mid-tier ones with D3.
 

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This definitely holds true for HK receivers. I dont know what that company did. I loved my old HK, I went with Marantz this time because I wasnt too sure about HK anymore.
Yeah, HK has pretty much dropped out of the AVR market nowadays it seems.
 

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No, they didn't. Which is really weird because those NR series receivers are really tiny and using Class D in them would make perfect sense.

However, I think that generally the mainstream AVR makers prefer to keep using big AB amps because consumers associate "good" receivers with big heavy, expensive black boxes...the SUV buyer's mentality at work. I suspect that's why HK's slimline class D amps and Panasonic's XR series of price-defying slimline receivers didn't survive more than a few years.

Even Pioneer Elite has scaled back its Class D3 amps to only 1 or 2 of its top shelf models; my LX502 was the last of the mid-tier ones with D3.

There's good class A/B and there's so-so class A/B. The good amps have toroidal transformers, MOSFET's, etc. The so-so ones have EI (or worse) transformers, etc. Marantz typically still uses decent innards, but they aren't the best in their mid-level amps and AVR's.

I agree that class D would be a great fit for the sub $1000 AVR. Cooler running, smaller, power output will be as good, etc. May not sound quite as good, but it's an AVR so no one is going to mistake it for a piece of audiophile equipment anyways.

AVR's are a huge compromise anyways. Most of their budget is spent on licensing/implementing all of those "features" that they have and very little is left for quality hardware.
 

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No I meant too much for my Marantz SR5012 to handle. This entire thread is about my concern over the 4 ohms rating of the speakers I want get. Many seem to think it will be okay to use it for my work speakers. I wanted to know would that mean it would be fine to get the Elac center, surround and Atmos speakers from the same line up (they are all 4 ohms), or would that be too much for my receiver? Sorry I am not sure if I am making sense.
If you're doing a full 5 speaker Uni-Fi surround plus the atmos channels, I'm going to say that your amp will probably struggle powering the uni-fi's on all those channels. Sure, you could cross over to the subs higher, but then you're losing a lot of what makes the uni-fi special speakers.

Obviously none of us really have a firm answer as we don't have your particular setup. It might work ok...just don't know. But from my experience with running them in 2 channel (and in the front R/L of my HT) I know what it takes to power those things. That's why I like them but also dislike them. If you were close I'd make you a deal on my Uni-Fi towers and bookshelves because I'm not sure if I'll ever have them in my rotation again.
 

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Just got them with my $299 Pioneer AVR. They sound pretty good to me. Great detail and imagining. The power thing could be an issue. I noticed my receiver got hot running Atmos on a Blu-ray set at 6ohms, changing it to 4 ohms did help cool it down.

Edit. Right now I just have the bookshelfs. I'm adding a center in a few days will report back
 

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Just got them with my $299 Pioneer AVR. They sound pretty good to me. Great detail and imagining. The power thing could be an issue. I noticed my receiver got hot running Atmos on a Blu-ray set at 6ohms, changing it to 4 ohms did help cool it down.

Edit. Right now I just have the bookshelfs. I'm adding a center in a few days will report back

If Pioneer works like Yamaha, then all the 4 ohm setting does is lower power output to keep the receiver cooler.
 

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Andrew Jones - the "famous" speaker designer that can make a decent-sounding $600/pair of speakers...


That require thousands of dollars of electronics to power and drive properly.


$30k-plus in electronics and speaker/power cables to run a $300 pair of 5.25" speakers at trade shows, while Dr. Hsu does demos with an old Onkyo AVR (and blows others away)...
 
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Discussion Starter #31
If Pioneer works like Yamaha, then all the 4 ohm setting does is lower power output to keep the receiver cooler.
I spoke to a Marantz tech rep (not sure how much they know) and the insisted you turn on the 4 ohm setting if I get ohm speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I spoke to both tech from Elac and Marantz both said the SR5012 can handle a full set of ELAC Uni-fi surround system. Soooooo....I just got the Fronts and Center. All 3 for a little under 1k. Too good of a deal to pass on.
 

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I spoke to a Marantz tech rep (not sure how much they know) and the insisted you turn on the 4 ohm setting if I get ohm speakers.

Of course they do. They don't want to warranty anything.

I'm not bashing Marantz as I still think they make some of the best mid-fi AVR's. I have one.
 

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I spoke to both tech from Elac and Marantz both said the SR5012 can handle a full set of ELAC Uni-fi surround system. Soooooo....I just got the Fronts and Center. All 3 for a little under 1k. Too good of a deal to pass on.
Just like I suspected. Let us know how you like the system once it's all up and running.

At the end of the day if you feel you like the sound, volume level, dynamics..etc that's all that matters.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Just like I suspected. Let us know how you like the system once it's all up and running.

At the end of the day if you feel you like the sound, volume level, dynamics..etc that's all that matters.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Well now I need to get a new sub to go with it. What Frequency response do you think I should be looking for?
 

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Well now I need to get a new sub to go with it. What Frequency response do you think I should be looking for?
Well since you are in the candy store....lol...

It depends if you want to go for the grand slam.

What's the budget? Like the gentleman above stated the Rythmik subs I have heard really good things and they are somewhat budget friendly in regard to what you get for the money.

Rythmik, SVS , PSA, JTR all very well documented companies for Subwoofers and speakers.

I have the JTR 118HT and that is way more than I expected. It may be Cliche but ported subs seem to work well with Home theater and sealed seams to still be great for Movies and for music. However the gap between the 2 are a lot closer based on the companies I mentioned.

I may be moving on to a smaller sealed sub for music and Home theater duties. I didnt believe it until I brought it home, but a reference subwoofer makes a huge difference in a system and by a pretty good margin. Do some research and read some reviews.

We have a lot of folks in these forums with. Lot more experience then me and I'm sure some others can chime in.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I’m sure that’s what it is, but I got used to the lower volume. Thinking about getting an Infinity fan. Will it make a difference?
I have one and it amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So I just got this email from Marantz tech support about the same questions I posted here.. and here is what they said. Please let me know if what he says make sense.

I wouldn't recommend pairing those speakers with this unit. The ELAC Uni-fi UF5 are rated with a recommended power rating of 40W - 140W, with a peak power handling rating of 140W.

The SR5012's 4 ohm power spec isn't listed, but the 8 ohm spec is 100W per channel. The 4 ohm spec would be roughly double that (~175-200W).

The SR5012 would very likely overpower your speakers - especially at high volume, especially if a period of peak wattage hits (i.e., loud explosions in movies, etc.) - which could very possibly damage or blow your speakers.

The NR1710 would be a better fit, at 50W @ 8 ohm (so ~80-100W @ 4 ohm).


Up to know I was under the impression I had to worry about the amp. They seem to think I need to worry about the speakers. Also, my AVR is 4 ohms compatible. Cant I just run it in that mode?
 
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